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Development and validation of a reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic method for the quantitation and stability of a-lipoic acid in cosmetic creams / S. Papageorgiou in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 221-228 Titre : Development and validation of a reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic method for the quantitation and stability of a-lipoic acid in cosmetic creams Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : S. Papageorgiou, Auteur ; Athanasia Varvaresou, Auteur ; I. Panderi, Auteur ; M. Giannakou, Auteur ; C. Spiliopoulou, Auteur ; S. Athanaselis, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 221-228 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Lipoïque, Acide L’acide alphalipoïque, également appelé acide thioctique est une substance d’une part apportée par l’alimentation, mais aussi fabriquée à partir de l’acide octanoïque par l’organisme, parfois en quantité insuffisante, à partir de la cystéine. Amphiphile, il exerce une activité antioxydante tant en milieu hydrophile ou aqueux (comme la vitamine C) qu’en milieu lipophile ou graisseux (comme la vitamine E et le ß-carotène). On le trouve principalement dans les abats, la levure, les feuilles vertes (brocolis, épinards), carottes, betterave…Les compléments alimentaires sont mieux assimilés hors des repas. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To develop and validate a simple reversed-phase HPLC method for the quantitation and evaluation of stability of alipoic acid in cosmetics, according to International Conference on Harmonization (ICH) Guidelines. - Methods : The chromatography was performed on a reversed-phase Luna C18, analytical column (150 × 4.6 mm id, 5 µm particle size) with a mobile phase of potassium dihydrogen phosphate (pH 4.5; 0.05 M) and acetonitrile (60:40, v/v) and a flow rate of 1.0 mL min-1 with UV detection at 340 nm. Accelerated and long-term stability studies of alipoic acid in cosmetic cream were conducted under various degradation conditions including acid, basis, oxidation, and thermal and photolytic degradation, according to European Medicines Agency Guidelines CPMP/ICH/2736/99. - Results : The limit of detection (LOD) for the cosmetic cream was 0.9 µg mLt1 and the limit of quantitation (LOQ) was 2.8 µg mL-1, while the retention time was 7.2 min. The method proved to be linear, precise and accurate. The stability results demonstrated the selectivity of the proposed method to the analysis of aLA, and the degradation products were determined and evaluated in specific stress conditions in cosmetic creams. The applicability of the method was tested in two different developed cosmetic products (cream with 1.5 % w/w and emulsion with 1.0 % w/w of LA) and proved to be reliable. - Conclusion : A reversed-phase HPLC-UV method was developed and fully validated for the analysis of alipoic acid in cosmetics. It is the first reported application on the quantitation of lipoic acid in cosmetic creams, while at the same time evaluates the stability in forced degradation conditions, in new cosmetic formulations. It proved to be suitable for the reliable quality control of cosmetic products, with a run time of <8 min that allows for the analysis of large number of samples per day. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Instrumentation - Stock and working standard solutions - Cosmetic cream - Samples preparation (Cosmetic cream - Validation procedure) - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Method development - Method validation (Linearity - Precision and accuracy - Specificity - Stability studies - Application to the analysis of cosmetic products) - Table 1 : Statistical analysis of the calibration curves for the quantitation of a-lipoic acid in cosmetic creams - Table 2 : Accuracy and precision evaluation of a-lipoic acid in cosmetic creams (3 runs, six replicates per run) - Table 3 : Stability data for a-lipoic acid in cosmetic cream by RP-HPLC-UV - Table 4 : Analytical data on the determination of a-lipoic acid in cosmetic products by HPLC-UV. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12603 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CDGzkfOBUubb4Zme-g1-JdDnLriy1QW3/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35269 [article]

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A novel water-in-oil emulsion with a lecithin-modified bentonite prevents skin damage from urban dust and cedar pollen / Tetsuro Iwanaga in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 229-236 Titre : A novel water-in-oil emulsion with a lecithin-modified bentonite prevents skin damage from urban dust and cedar pollen Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Tetsuro Iwanaga, Auteur ; A. Nioh, Auteur ; N. Reed, Auteur ; H. Kiyokawa, Auteur ; H. Akatsuka, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 229-236 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polluants atmosphériques Stress oxydatif Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Particulate matter (PM), such as air pollutants and pollens, are known to cause skin ageing through skin inflammation. It is important to develop formulations which protect the skin from PM. We previously developed a conventional water-in-oil emulsion with a synthetic surfactant, distearyldimonium chloride, modified bentonite (C-W/O), which protects skin from allergens. In the present study, we developed a novel water-in-oil emulsion with a natural surfactant, lecithin, modified bentonite (N-W/O). - Methods : The microarray analysis was performed using total RNA extracted from a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) stimulated with urban aerosols or cedar pollen for 6 h in order to develop an epidermal inflammation model by PM for the evaluation of topical formulations. We then compared the efficacy of N-W/O and C-W/O to prevent epidermal degradation. Tissues and culture media were collected 24 h after the urban aerosol or cedar pollen stimulation for a histological assay, and the quantification of MMP1 and IL-8 secretion. - Results : The expression levels of proinflammatory cytokines and chemokines, such as IL1A and CXCL8, and matrix metalloproteinases, including MMP1, MMP3 and MMP9, were significantly up-regulated by the PM stimulation. As a result of ranking based on the pathway enrichment analysis, oxidative stress-related pathways, such as MAPK-mediated signalling, HIF-1 signalling, IL-1 signalling and ROS-induced cellular signalling, were ranked high in the urban dust- and cedar pollen-treated groups. A thickened stratum corneum, thinned vital layer and cleaved E-cadherin were observed by haematoxylin and eosin staining and immunohistochemical staining of E-cadherin in the PM treated groups. The secretion of MMP1 and IL-8 into the media was significantly increased by the PM stimulation. N-W/O prevented the degradation of epidermal integrity and secretion of inflammatory proteins more effectively than C-W/O. - Conclusion : The present results showed that N-W/O made using natural surfactant is useful at protecting skin from PM, such as urban aerosols and cedar pollen. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS RHE MODEL : Particulate matter - Microarray analysis of the RHE inflammation model with PM exposure - Materials including emulsion samples - Evaluation of the efficacy of N-W/O to protect against PM - Preparation of emulsion samples - Preparation of lecithin-modified bentonite - RESULTS : Microarray analysis of the PM-induced inflammation in RUE - Evaluation of protection by N‐W/O using the RUE inflammation model - Table 1 : Formulation of emulsions - Table 2 : Ranking based on a pathway enrichment analysis using MetaCore® software DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12605 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aaOPkWKkGqlg_8OmkBN37Minu4q_zGaG/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35270 [article]

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Bio-based algae oil : an oxidation and structural analysis / H. Birjandi Nejad in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 237-247 Titre : Bio-based algae oil : an oxidation and structural analysis Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : H. Birjandi Nejad, Auteur ; Laurent Blasco, Auteur ; B. Moran, Auteur ; Juan Cebriàn, Auteur ; J. Woodger, Auteur ; E. Gonzalez, Auteur ; C. Pritts, Auteur ; J. Milligan, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 237-247 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues Biomatériaux Biotechnologie Chimie analytique Emollients Fermentation Huiles et graisses végétales Hydratation Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Triglycérides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In search of natural components, vegetal oils are increasingly becoming more popular in cosmetics. However, high oxidation instability, presence of potential allergens and synthetic anti-oxidants have limited their applications so far. Therefore, a need exists for a natural emollient with high oxidation stability. In this work, we report on a novel sustainably produced triglyceride containing primarily three monounsaturated oleic acid chains, dubbed ‘Bio-Based Algae Oil' hereafter, as a natural emollient for cosmetic formulations. To produce Bio-Based Algae Oil, simple sugars are converted into triglyceride oils using microalgae fermentation with minimal environmental impact. - Methods : Bio-Based Algae Oil was compared to other commonly used triglyceride-based emollients in the skincare industry in terms of thermal/oxidation stability, composition and moisturizing properties. Oxidation stability of emollients was compared using Rancimat and pressurized differential scanning calorimetry (PDSC) techniques. Fatty acid composition of each oil was analysed using proton nuclear magnetic resonance (1H-NMR) and gas chromatography (GC) techniques to correlate unsaturation level of each oil to its oxidation stability. We also conducted an in vivo moisturizing study in which skin hydration level of human subjects was compared before and after application of emollient up to 24 h. - Results : Results showed that Bio-Based Algae Oil was the most stable emollient in thermal and oxidation stability studies given its low unsaturation and high anti-oxidant content determined by 1H-NMR and GC techniques. It also provided the highest skin hydration level when applied on skin demonstrating its efficacy as a moisturizing emollient in cosmetic formulations. - Conclusions : Compositional analysis of Bio-Based Algae revealed that it is a triglyceride containing primarily three monounsaturated oleic acid chains with very low polyunsaturated fatty acid content resulting in high oxidation stability and consequently prolonged shelf-life. Given its sustainability, high oxidation stability and skin health benefits such as moisturization demonstrated during an in vivo study, we envision to utilize Bio-Based Algae Oil in many cosmetic formulations across skincare, suncare and bath and shower markets. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL SECTION : Materials - Thermal stability - Structural analysis - Moisturizing study - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Thermal stability - Oxidation stability - Structural analysis - Moisturizing study - Table 1 : Onset of weight loss temperature (°C) of bio-based algae oil, synthetic triolein, sunflower oil and olive oil recorded via thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) - Table 2 : Weight loss (%) of Bio-based algae oil, Synthetic Triolein, Sun-flower oil and olive oil recorded via isothermal thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) at 100, 130, 155 and 180°C - Table 3 : Oxidation induction time (OIT) of bio-based algae oil, synthetic triolein, sunflower oil and olive oil measured by PDSC and rancimat techniques - Table 4 : Rancimat oxidation induction time (OIT) of bo-based algae oil, synthetic triolein, sunflower oil and olive oil, extrapolated to 25°C - Table 5 : Fatty acid profiles of bio-based algae oil, synthetic triolein, sunflower oil and olive oil - Table 6 : Anti-oxidant content of bio-based algae oil, synthetic triolein, sunflower oil and olive oil DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12606 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NQLKjwtTxsT7w09oEFddU9gi56uTvhjn/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35271 [article]

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The effect of vehicle on skin absorption of Mg2+ and Ca2+ from thermal spring water / M. Tarnowska in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 248-258 Titre : The effect of vehicle on skin absorption of Mg2+ and Ca2+ from thermal spring water Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : M. Tarnowska, Auteur ; Stéphanie Briançon, Auteur ; J. Resende de Azevedo, Auteur ; Yves Chevalier, Auteur ; D. Arquier, Auteur ; C. Barratier, Auteur ; Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 248-258 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée Barrière cutanée Calcium Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Franz, Cellules de Ions métalliques Liposomes Magnésium Le magnésium est l'élément chimique de numéro atomique 12, de symbole Mg. Le magnésium est un métal alcalino-terreux. Il s’agit du neuvième élément le plus abondant de l'univers . Il est le produit, dans de grandes étoiles vieillissantes, de l'addition séquentielle de trois noyaux d'hélium à un noyau carbo. Lorsque de telles étoiles explosent en tant que supernovas, une grande partie du magnésium est expulsé dans le milieu interstellaire où il peut se recycler dans de nouveaux systèmes stellaires. Le magnésium est le huitième élément le plus abondant de la croûte terrestreet le quatrième élément le plus commun de la Terre (après le fer, l'oxygène et le silicium), constituant 13 % de la masse de la planète et une grande partie du manteau de la planète. C'est le troisième élément le plus abondant dissous dans l'eau de mer, après le sodium et le chlore. Les atomes de magnésium existent dans la nature uniquement sous forme de combinaisons avec d'autres éléments, où il présente invariablement l'état d'oxydation +2. L'élément pur est produit artificiellement par réduction ou électrolyse. Il est hautement réactif en poudre et en copeaux mais, laissé à l'air libre, il se revêt rapidement d'une mince couche d'oxyde étanche réduisant sa réactivité (passivation par oxydation). Le métal pur brûle aisément sous certaines conditions (en produisant une lumière brillante, blanche, éblouissante caractéristique). En mécanique il est utilisé principalement comme composant dans les alliages d'aluminium-magnésium (parfois appelés magnalium). Le magnésium est moins dense que l'aluminium et l'alliage est apprécié pour sa légèreté et sa résistance plus grande (mécanique et chimique). (Wikipedia) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration (physique) Sources thermales Vectorisation Vis barrière Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Thermal spring waters (TSW) are commonly used as active ingredients in cosmetics. Their biological activities directly depend on the ionic composition of the spring. However, in order to exhibit beneficial properties, the minerals need to reach viable skin layers. The present study addresses the incorporation of marketed TSW in model cosmetic formulations and the impact of the formulation on skin absorption of magnesium and calcium ions that are known to improve skin barrier function. - Methods : Marketed TSW was introduced into five formulations. Liposomes were prepared using saturated or unsaturated phospholipids mixed with cholesterol by the thin layer evaporation technique. Emulsions water-in-oil (W/O), oil-in-water (O/W) or double: water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) were prepared by high-shear mixing. Skin absorption of Mg2+ and Ca2+ from those formulations was studied in vitro using static Franz diffusion cells under infinite dose condition and under occlusion of the apparatus. - Results : Mg2+ and Ca2+ penetrate skin samples from TSW. Encapsulating TSW into double emulsion (TSW/O/W) increased skin absorption of both cations of interest and kept the Ca2+/Mg2+ ratio equal to that of TSW in each skin layer. The dermal absorption of Mg2+ from the double emulsion departs from both single emulsions. Application of liposome suspension improved the skin absorption of Ca2+ while keeping constant that of Mg2+, leading to unbalanced Ca2+/Mg2+ ratio inside skin. - Conclusion : The beneficial effects of TSW are not only due to their action on the skin surface. Their active components, especially Ca2+ and Mg2+ cations, reach viable skin layers in a formulation-dependent manner. The distribution of ions inside skin depends on the type of formulation. Note de contenu : - Materials - TSW physicochemical characterization - Formulation manufacture - pH measurements - Skin permeation studies - Table 1 : Characterization of TSW. Values in standard font are given accord¬ing to the supplier, and values in italics are the measurements made by our own - Table 2 : Composition of the formulations. Values are given as % m/m of the final preparation - Table 3 : Physicochemical characterization of liposomes made of saturated and unsaturated phospholipids (LPM-90H and LPM-90G, respectively) and three emulsion types : O/TSW, TSW/O/W and TSW/O. Mean size of emulsion droplets was estimated from optical microscopy observations ; those for liposomes were measured by dynamic light scattering (mean size and PDI) - Table 4 : Results of dermal absorption of Ca2+ and Mg2+ from the emulsions and liposomes in nmol cm-2. The values represent the mean values of 8 experiments and are expressed as mean ± SEM. Ca2+ : Mg2+ ratios (R) were calculated based on the mean values obtained for each skin layer DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12607 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nu-TuWxdaruwasj0oAlbcHdPj6jMeKaF/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35272 [article]

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Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform / A. R. Davies in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 259-269 Titre : Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : A. R. Davies, Auteur ; S. Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 259-269 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcools gras Automatisation Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chlorure de behentrimonium Chlorure de cétrimonium Composés lamellaires Dilution Elasticité Formulation (Génie chimique) Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Micelles Produits après-shampooings Rhéologie Surfactants Systèmes auto-assemblés Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : The main objective of this paper was to optimize hair conditioner performance through variation of composition utilizing automated cosmetic formulation platform and advanced characterization techniques as well as develop understanding of how performance (wet combing and wet lubrication) of hair conditioner is affected by its rheology (i.e. yield stress) and controlled breakdown of the formulations (dilution). The experimental results show that yield stress greatly impacts rheology, stability and performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning. - Methods : All samples were prepared on the Chemspeed Flex Formax. A mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and yield stress in each sample. Dia-stron tensile tester was used to measure the lamellar gels ability to reduce combing force. Potential stronger lamellar gel network formation in the formed lamellar gels potentially leads to higher yield stress exhibited. Viscosity values were also measured after a controlled breakdown (i.e. dilution) of each sample. This was also carried out using a mechanical rheometer. - Results : Yield stress of the formulations was engineered through composition variation and was recorded in each system. The highest yield stress value is 251.179 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 50.14 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:5. The highest yield stress value is 50.14 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 19.98 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 2:10. The highest overall yield stress values can also be observed in the BTAC/CA system, whereas the CTAC/CA system has relatively lower yield stress values. Dilution of each formulation caused a breakdown in viscosity of each formulation with the formulations with highest yield stress maintaining higher viscosity than the other formulations. The formulations with highest yield stress in each system which also maintains the highest dilution viscosity (6% BTAC/10% CA and 6% CTAC/10% CA) have the best effect on reducing overall combing force, that is from dry hair tress to wet hair tress and after product is rinsed off. At a BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:5, there is an 89% reduction in combing force and a 95% reduction in combing force in the BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. At a CTAC/CA system of ratio 2:10, there is a 65% reduction in combing force and a 88% reduction in combing force in the CTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. A ‘conditioned’ soft feel was observed on each hair tress as the sample was applied and after it was rinsed off. - Conclusions : The overall performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning can be engineered through optimization of the formulation microstructure and formulation microstructure breakdown on dilution. Note de contenu : - Objectives : The main objective of this paper was to optimize hair conditioner performance through variation of composition utilizing automated cosmetic formulation platform and advanced characterization techniques as well as develop understanding of how performance (wet combing and wet lubrication) of hair conditioner is affected by its rheology (i.e. yield stress) and controlled breakdown of the formulations (dilution). The experimental results show that yield stress greatly impacts rheology, stability and performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning. - Methods : All samples were prepared on the Chemspeed Flex Formax. A mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and yield stress in each sample. Dia-stron tensile tester was used to measure the lamellar gels ability to reduce combing force. Potential stronger lamellar gel network formation in the formed lamellar gels potentially leads to higher yield stress exhibited. Viscosity values were also measured after a controlled breakdown (i.e. dilution) of each sample. This was also carried out using a mechanical rheometer. - Results : Yield stress of the formulations was engineered through composition variation and was recorded in each system. The highest yield stress value is 251.179 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 50.14 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:5. The highest yield stress value is 50.14 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 19.98 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 2:10. The highest overall yield stress values can also be observed in the BTAC/CA system, whereas the CTAC/CA system has relatively lower yield stress values. Dilution of each formulation caused a breakdown in viscosity of each formulation with the formulations with highest yield stress maintaining higher viscosity than the other formulations. The formulations with highest yield stress in each system which also maintains the highest dilution viscosity (6% BTAC/10% CA and 6% CTAC/10% CA) have the best effect on reducing overall combing force, that is from dry hair tress to wet hair tress and after product is rinsed off. At a BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:5, there is an 89% reduction in combing force and a 95% reduction in combing force in the BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. At a CTAC/CA system of ratio 2:10, there is a 65% reduction in combing force and a 88% reduction in combing force in the CTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. A ‘conditioned’ soft feel was observed on each hair tress as the sample was applied and after it was rinsed off. - Conclusions : The overall performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning can be engineered through optimization of the formulation microstructure and formulation microstructure breakdown on dilution. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12609 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eCms_kWzscE6oPauostB7q8_J8tKKwBu/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35273 [article]

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Sphingolipid identification and skin barrier recovery capacity of a milk sphingolipid-enriched fraction (MSEF) from buttermilk powder / K. Lee in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 270-276 Titre : Sphingolipid identification and skin barrier recovery capacity of a milk sphingolipid-enriched fraction (MSEF) from buttermilk powder Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : K. Lee, Auteur ; S. Kim, Auteur ; A. Kim, Auteur ; H. J. Suh, Auteur ; K.-B. Hong, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 270-276 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Evaluation Hydratation Ingrédients cosmétiques Lait et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Sphingolipides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In this study, we isolated the milk sphingolipid-enriched fraction (MSEF) of sweet buttermilk powder and conducted a clinical trial for evaluating its efficacy in skin barrier recovery. - Methods : Milk sphingolipid-enriched fraction was isolated via solvent extraction of buttermilk powder, and further concentrated by removing the phospholipids and neutral lipids. A cream containing 1% MSEF was used during clinical trials to assess for water holding and skin barrier recovery capacities. - Results : The main components of the MSEF were sphingomyelin, glucosylceramide and lactosylceramide, confirmed by TLC, HPLC, MS and NMR. The MSEF cream-treated group had a significantly higher (P < 0.05) water holding capacity, compared with the base cream (vehicle) group. Compared with that in the base cream group, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) recovery increased in the presence of the sphingolipid-containing MSEF cream (MSEF group), with a significant difference (P < 0.05) recorded on day 14. - Conclusion : The MSEF cream contributed to improving the water holding capacity and skin barrier recovery of damaged skin. Therefore, sphingolipid-containing MSEF can be useful for strengthening or repairing skin barrier function. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Production of milk sphingolipid-enriched fraction - Clinical tests - Determination of three main MSEF sphingolipids - Preparation of 1% cream for clinical trial - Isolation of 3 main sphingolipid compounds - Study protocol - Skin assessments - Statistical analyses - RESULTS : Analyses of sphingolipids in MSEF - Clinical trials for evaluating the effect of MSEF cream on skin hydration and skin barrier function - Table 1 : Ingredients and composition of base cream and MSEF cream DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12612 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UPg37Gy-xB7w93UVj_V2bWw3V3d7FZ7y/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35274 [article]

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Objective and subjective reduction of cellulite volume using a localized vibrational massage device in a 24-week randomized intra‐individual single-blind regression study / Tomasz Sadowski in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 277-288 Titre : Objective and subjective reduction of cellulite volume using a localized vibrational massage device in a 24-week randomized intra‐individual single-blind regression study Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Tomasz Sadowski, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Auteur ; S. Sukopp, Auteur ; C. Gordon, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 277-288 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse d'image L'analyse d'image est la reconnaissance des éléments contenus dans l'image. Il ne faut pas confondre analyse (décomposition en éléments) et traitement (action sur les composantes) de l'image. Cellulite Etude in vivo Massage vibratoire Profilométrie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cellulite occurs in females and is a common condition of altered connective tissue matrix and increased adipogenicity with visible dimples and orange-peel appearance on the skins surface. Whilst advancements in methods continue to help our understanding, attempts to correct the appearance of cellulite topically have yielded limited success. Various kinds of non-invasive body contouring methods such as whole body vibration have been reported with demonstrable visible improvements in the cellulite condition. The aim of this study was to evaluate volume reduction and improvement of the visible appearance of cellulite as judged both objectively (AEVA-HE phase-shift 3-D fringe projection, macrophotography image grading) and subjectively (questionnaires) after application of a hand-held localized vibrational device over 24-weeks. The study was conducted on 40 healthy female volunteers who were instructed how to use the device on defined areas of cellulite of the outside and rear of the thighs (iliotibial band, and over biceps femoris region respectively). The initial 12 weeks of continuous massage application of the study were followed by a 12 week phase in which volunteers were split into 2 subgroups – one for assessment of regression effects and one for continuous application effects. AEVA (skin surface volume) measurements of cellulite-related dimples correlated with questionnaires and visual image evaluation scoring, in that in the iliotibial region cellulite was significantly reduced at 12 weeks. In the regression subgroup cellulite returned to initial values soon after cessation of treatment, whereas in the continuous application subgroup, cellulite remained diminished. The effect of this device to reduce cellulite as observed in this study proves that continuous use of vibrational massage is beneficial to mitigate visible signs of cellulite. Note de contenu : - Test materials - Volunteers - Study exclusion criteria - Study inclusion criteria - Safety criteria and adverse event reporting - Instructions prior to study commencement - Instructions during study - Measurement - Data managements and statistics - Questionnaires DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12613 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uXIfqxz76zLXKKAWaMCntL8frkEY36V3/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35275 [article]

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Anomalous fluorescence of white hair compared to other unpigmented keratin fibres / Keith R. Millington in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 289–301 Titre : Anomalous fluorescence of white hair compared to other unpigmented keratin fibres Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Keith R. Millington, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 289–301 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Décuticulation Fluorescence kératines La kératine est une protéine, synthétisée et utilisée par de nombreux êtres vivants comme élément de structure, et également l'exemple-type de protéine fibreuse. La kératine est insoluble, et peut être retrouvée sur l'épiderme de certains animaux, notamment les mammifères, ce qui leur garantit une peau imperméable. Parfois, lors d'une friction trop importante, la kératine se développe à la surface de la peau formant une callosité. Les cellules qui produisent la kératine meurent et sont remplacées continuellement. Les morceaux de kératine qui restent emprisonnés dans les cheveux sont couramment appelés des pellicules. La molécule de kératine est hélicoïdale et fibreuse, elle s'enroule autour d'autres molécules de kératine pour former des filaments intermédiaires. Ces protéines contiennent un haut taux d'acides aminés à base de soufre, principalement la cystéine, qui forment un pont disulfure entre les molécules, conférant sa rigidité à l'ensemble. La chevelure humaine est constituée à 14 % de cystéine. Il y a deux principales formes de kératines : l'alpha-kératine, ou α-keratin, présente chez les mammifères notamment, dont l'humain, et la bêta-kératine, ou β-keratin, que l'on retrouve chez les reptiles et les oiseaux. Ces deux types de kératines ne présentent clairement pas d'homologie de séquence. Chez l'être humain, la kératine est fabriquée par les kératinocytes, cellules se trouvant dans la couche profonde de l'épiderme. Les kératinocytes absorbent la mélanine (pigment fabriqué par les mélanocytes), se colorent et ainsi cette pigmentation de l'épiderme permet de protéger les kératinocytes des rayons ultraviolets du Soleil. (Wikipedia) Réduction (chimie) Tryptophane Le tryptophane est un acide aminé, qui dans sa configuration L (L-tryptophane, ne pas confondre avec lévogyre) est l'un des 22 acides aminés constituant des protéines. Dans le code génétique, il est codé par le codon UGG. Il s'agit d'un acide aminé essentiel pour l'humain, c'est-à-dire qu'il doit être apporté par l'alimentation. Propriétés : Il est aromatique, apolaire et hydrophobe (comme la phénylalanine). Très fragile, il est détruit par les acides minéraux, et ne peut être isolé dans les hydrolysats acides des protéines. C'est un acide aminé contenant un hétérocycle indole qui lui confère de propriétés spectroscopiques d'absorption et de fluorescence dans l'UV. En dehors de son utilisation dans la biosynthèse des protéines, c'est le précurseur d'autres composés importants comme la sérotonine, la mélatonine, la bufoténine, etc. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To demonstrate that the tryptophan (Trp) fluorescence of natural white hair is much weaker than other unpigmented keratin fibres such as wool, cashmere, rabbit hair and mink fur, and to explore possible reasons for this behaviour. The origin of the blue visible fluorescence (~450 nm) excited by UVA radiation in the range 360-380 nm, often associated with Trp degradation products, is also discussed and compared to other fibrous and globular proteins. - Methods : As the fluorescence spectrum of keratin fibres usually contains at least two major features, a visual comparison is more effectively demonstrated by creating a 3D contour plot of excitation versus emission wavelength, which is sometimes referred to as an excitation emission matrix (EEM). - Results : The Trp fluorescence from white hair is very much weaker than for wool, cashmere, rabbit hair and mink fur, but its visible fluorescence emission is stronger. Oxidation and reduction have little effect on the Trp intensity, which suggests quenching by cystine is not a major factor. Decuticulation of hair fibres had no effect on the Trp intensity showing that the increased number of cuticle scales surrounding the fibre cortex is not responsible. Trp fluorescence is very sensitive to exposure to UVB wavelengths, so possibly its low intensity in hair is due to greater levels of environmental exposure to sunlight than the other fibres examined. - Conclusion : Trp fluorescence from natural white hair is either extremely weak or completely absent, in contrast to the four other keratin fibres examined. It is possible that environmental exposure to UV wavelengths presents in sunlight contributes to a reduction in the Trp fluorescence intensity of white hair. However, another explanation is that Trp is quenched, by either an unknown substance introduced into hair during keratinization or as a result of regular exposure to personal care products, which may interact with Trp or tyrosine residues and disrupt the energy transfer process involved in keratin fluorescence. Further studies will be required to definitively determine the cause. Note de contenu : - Materials - Fluorescence spectroscopy - Tryptophan analysis - The tryptophan contents - Transmission electron microscopy - Reduction of hair and wool with tri-n-butylphosphine - Oxidation of wool and hair with hydrogen peroxide - Removal of cuticle from white hair - UVB exposure of fabrics - Table 1 : The tryptophan and cystine contents of hair, wool and silk DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12614 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10TBnRB3JTzRSGdvNrizQ1eg1XtdahiZl/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35276 [article]

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Dissolving microneedle with high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to improve skin wrinkles, dermal density and elasticity / M. Jang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 302-309 Titre : Dissolving microneedle with high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to improve skin wrinkles, dermal density and elasticity Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : M. Jang, Auteur ; S. Baek, Auteur ; G. Kang, Auteur ; H. Yang, Auteur ; S. Kim, Auteur ; H. Jung, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 302-309 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adénosine L'adénosine est un nucléoside formé lorsque l'adénine est attachée à un noyau ribose (sous forme de ribofuranose) via une liaison ?-N9glucoside. L'adénosine est libérée par les neurones et par les cellules gliales. Elle joue un rôle important dans les processus biochimiques, telles le transfert d'énergie - comme adénosine triphosphate (ATP) et adénosine diphosphate (ADP) - ainsi que dans la transduction de signaux comme adénosine monophosphate cyclique, AMPc. Elle a également un rôle de neurotransmetteur de type hormonal. Si l'adénine est attachée à un noyau désoxyribose, sucre typique de l'ADN, on parle alors de désoxyadénosine. Antiâge:Antirides Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Evaluation Hyaluronique, acide L'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux. Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique. Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale. Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia) Patchs à micro-aiguilles Patchs cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Tests d'efficacité Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Dissolving microneedle patches have been extensively studied in the field of cosmetics comparison with topical cosmetics focusing on the delivery of active ingredients. Nevertheless, the skin improvement effect of hyaluronic acid, which is mainly used as a backbone material for dissolving microneedle, was not analyzed. In this study, adenosine encapsulated high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid dissolving microneedle patch (Ad-HMN and Ad-LMN) were evaluated with respect to skin wrinkling, dermal density, elasticity, and safety in a clinical test on the crow’s feet area. - Methods : Clinical efficacy and safety tests were performed for 12 weeks on twenty three female subjects with wrinkles around their eyes. The Ad-HMN and Ad-LMN patch were applied once every 3 days, in the evening, for 8 weeks to the designated crow’s feet area. Skin wrinkling, dermal density, and elasticity were measured by using PRIMOS® premium, Dermascan®C, Cutometer® MPA580, and Corneometer® CM 825, respectively. - Results : Both Ad-HMN and Ad-LMN groups showed statistically significant efficacy for almost all parameters. The Ad-HMN patch had better effect on the mean depth of biggest wrinkles, maximum depth of biggest wrinkles, dermal density, and skin elasticity than the Ad-LMN patch. No adverse effects were observed in either group during the test period. - Conclusion : In the clinical efficacy test of four skin-improvement parameters, the Ad-HMN patch showed the better effect than the Ad-LMN patch with the similar adenosine dose. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Clinical test: skin wrinkle evaluation using three-dimensional visual aid - Morphology, dissolution rates and skin penetration analysis of Ad-HMN and Ad-LMN patches - Randomized clinical trial of Ad-HMN and Ad-LMN group - Fabrication of Ad-HMN and Ad-LMN patches - Statistical analysis - Clinical test: skin elasticity evaluation - Skin irritation and sensitization assessment - Clinical test : dermal density evaluation - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Clinical test : skin wrinkle evaluation using three-dimensional visual aid - Morphology, dissolution rates and skin penetration analysis of Ad-HMN and Ad-LMN patches - Clinical test : dermal density evaluation - Clinical test: skin elasticity evaluation - Skin sensitization and irritation test - Comparison of skin-improving effects of the Ad-HMN and the Ad-LMN DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12617 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b_QZHeW4e30MRq2mabxhnNf2GtW7yUOj/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35277 [article]

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Microbes : Fighting for space on a fragile interface / Anthony Vincent Rawlings in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 310-312 Titre : Microbes : Fighting for space on a fragile interface Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 310-312 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie des surfaces Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Microorganismes Peau -- analyse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12616 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/150vLhxVVwmje2tVdk9_NGCuIZvgvvmxF/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35278 [article]

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