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Facial skin mapping : from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 411-424 Titre : Facial skin mapping : from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; J. Gierschendorf, Auteur ; B. Summers, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 411-424 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermatologie Evaluation Groupe ethnique Hydratation Peau -- Physiologie Sébum Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups. The paucity of data for the underlying cellular and biochemical problems in, and the effects of moisturisers on photodamaged facial skin may partly explain this. Mainly, single point measurements are used to understand the effects of products on skin physiology even on surrogate skin sites such as the non-photodamaged volar forearm. Some groups have developed discontinuous facial maps of skin biophysical properties, however, in 2014 a continuous facial analysis of bio-instrumental evaluations was developed using a heat map approach. These maps enabled a continuous visualization of features that not only revealed an unexpected complexity of facial skin but also indicated that use of surrogate skin sites for facial skin is inappropriate. We have demonstrated that remarkable gradients of skin hydration, TEWL, skin surface pH and sebum exist within short distances across the face and the gradients are distinctive among different ethnic groups. In addition, these studies have demonstrated that darkly‐pigmented individuals do not necessarily have a better skin barrier function than their less-pigmented counterparts and that Caucasians have a lower facial skin surface pH compared with more pigmented subjects. Overall, there are no correlations between capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH including individual topology angle values. Novel 3D camera approaches have also been used to facilitate a more precise assignment of measurement sites and visualisation. The 3D facial colour mappings illustrated precisely the local moisturising effects of a moisturising cream. There were subtle ethnic differences in efficacy that may be related to underlying skin biochemistry and/or ethnic differences in product application. A placebo-controlled study using conductance measurements in Chinese subjects is also reported. Finally, a new whole face statistical approach has been taken to prove differences in skin parameters but also of moisturiser treatment that adds further to our understanding of the ethnic differences in skin physiology and product application. This paper reviews the background of the development and application of this methodology. Note de contenu : - Part 1 : Observational study : exploratory inter-ethnic 2D approach using capacitance and TEWL measurements - Part 2 : Proof of concept moisturisation study : inter-ethnic 3D approach using capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH measurements - Part 3 : Facial sebum mapping, observational study on Caucasian subjects - Part 4 : Vehicle-controlled moisturisation study : conductance measurements on Chinese subjects DOI : 10.1111/ics12562 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d-E-H2weXqFx3Xyfv-3yr2aWMyXnI8t5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33199 [article]

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Clinical impacts of sun exposures on the faces and hands of Japanese women at different ages / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 425-436 Titre : Clinical impacts of sun exposures on the faces and hands of Japanese women at different ages Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; D. Velleman, Auteur ; S. Yamamoto, Auteur ; A. Nicolas, Auteur ; K. Udodaira, Auteur ; C. Morimoto, Auteur ; S. Belkebla, Auteur ; C. Nègre, Auteur ; C. Delaunay, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 425-436 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Japonaises Mains Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Rayonnement solaire Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To assess the impacts of sun exposures on some skin signs on the faces and hands of differently aged Japanese women, according to their distinct behaviours towards vis à vis sun exposure. - Methods : Two comparable cohorts of Japanese women (aged 18–83 years) were created according to their usual behaviour towards sun exposure i.e. non-sun-phobic (N = 495) and sun-phobic (N = 516) and through their regular use(s) of a photo-protective product. Standard photographs (full-face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 18 facial signs that were graded by 15 experts, using a referential skin ageing Atlas. From these two cohorts, two sub-cohorts (114 and 122 women) were created with regard to the similar clinical aspects of the dorsal side of their hands (Left vs. Right) that were further graded. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non-sun-phobic minus sun-phobic), by age-ranges, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and photo-protection. - Results : Facial signs related to skin wrinkles/texture and pigmentary spots were found significantly more accentuated among non-sun-phobic women and show an early onset (20–30 years). Facial sagging and crow’s feet wrinkles appear delayed (30–40 years). The severity of vascular disorders was found to be similar in the two cohorts. The absolute differences in the grading’s of almost all signs were unsurprisingly found increased with advancing ages, illustrating the combination of chronological and photo-ageing processes. With regard to hands, differences in skin texture and pigmentary disorders are of a late onset (40–50 years) and were found much increased at older ages. The cutaneous signs of the hands of Japanese women can hardly be taken as reliable markers of their photo-ageing status. - Conclusion : The present work illustrates, for the first time, some specificities of the impact of sun exposures on the facial skin of Japanese women, pinpointing the fact that some facial signs are of an early onset. Results significantly confirm the importance of both sun avoidance coupled with photo-protective measures. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Subjects - Clustering procedure - Pictures acquisitions - Protocol - Evaluation and grading of facial skin ageing signs - Global synthesis of results on major clinical clusters - Clinical signs on the hands - Statistics - RESULTS : Facial sign - Impact of age on the major structural and pigmentary facial signs - Hands clinical signs DOI : 10.1111/ics12555 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n6h1RLnHgnfWY4L3ImYPlcAWe5vudjbP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33200 [article]

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Synchronized in vivo measurements of skin hydratation and trans-epidermal water loss. Exploring their mutual influences / E. Caberlotto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 437-442 Titre : Synchronized in vivo measurements of skin hydratation and trans-epidermal water loss. Exploring their mutual influences Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : E. Caberlotto, Auteur ; C. Cornillon, Auteur ; S. Njikeu, Auteur ; M. Monot, Auteur ; M. Vicic, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 437-442 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Etudes cliniques Hydratation Mesure Perte insensible en eau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To explore the relationship between skin surface hydration and Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) when simultaneously measured. - Methods : Six circular skin areas of the forearms (3 per forearm, 3 cm in diameter) of 12 Caucasian women were used as models. 4 prototypes of formulae of different compositions containing glycerol at different concentrations 7%, 10% and 40% were used as models of hydrating products. One formula (glycerol-free) was used as control vehicle. Standardized applications of formulae (2 mg/cm2) were performed on 5 skin sites chosen at random, the other being left as bare/control. A recently marketed instrumental device that records the skin surface hydration and TEWL on a small skin area in a simultaneous manner was used. Measurements were carried out at T0 (pre-application), at 1 h (T1) and 5 h (T5) post applications on two close sites within the 6 defined areas of both forearms. - Results : The new instrumental device allowed to clearly differentiate the 5 formulae (i.e. 7% vs. 10%) with regard the dose effect brought by glycerol (7%, 10%, 40%) and to record their lingering effects at T1 and T5. Both parameters were found significantly and negatively correlated, i.e. the higher the skin hydration, the lower the TEWL. The 40% concentration of glycerol, that leads to the highest skin hydration, brings a drop in the TEWL by about a two-fold factor. Skin hydration of bare skin and control/vehicle sites showed minor and non-significant changes along 5 h. Instead, the control/ vehicle slowed down the TEWL to a slight extent. - Conclusion : The use of this new instrumental device shed a new light on the mutual and inverse relationships between skin hydration and TEWL. Results suggest that, at high concentration, glycerol leads to largely increase the water content of both epidermal and dermal compartments, possibly leading to structural changes in the skin relief. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : The GPSkin Barrier system - Subjects & Skin sites - Tested formulae - Protocol - Statistics - RESULTS : Skin hydratation - Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) - Correlation between both parameters DOI : 10.1111/ics12556 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UVWeF6J_dNx6iTq-9_9UU888xT3M-BzP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33201 [article]

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Morphometric characteristics of feminine eyebrows : variations with ethnicities and age / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 443-449 Titre : Morphometric characteristics of feminine eyebrows : variations with ethnicities and age Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; I. Seyrek, Auteur ; G. François, Auteur ; T. Zhu, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 443-449 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Femmes Groupe ethnique Sourcils Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To explore some morphological features of the eyebrows of women of different ethnicities and ages. - Materials and Methods : Standard digital photographs of 3600 women of six ethnicities, aged 18–84 years, previously used to describe the morphology of the human eyes, allowed us to focus on their eyebrows, as supplementary and opportunistic study. Photographs of both eyebrows were analysed partly by manual markings and automatically by dedicated algorithms. Six parameters of the eyebrows were recorded: length, waviness/curvature, oblique aspect, size (vertical height), total surface and hair coverage (density). - Results : Most criteria present ethnic specificities. These are: length (longer eyebrows of Indian, shorter among African women); waviness where the straighter eyebrows were found among Chinese and Japanese women. In general, the longer the eyebrows, the higher their waviness and vice versa. Thickness (or height) of the eyebrows presents a wide ethnic variability as well as hair coverage, where African women present the lower hair density, inversely to Indian women. The same holds true with regard to the total surface of eyebrows, of a large variability (by about four times). Some criteria appear more individually dependent than ethnic-specific, such as the oblique positioning, at the exception of Indian women with less oblique eyebrows. In all subjects, the criteria of both eyebrows (Left vs. Right) were found to be highly correlated (r > 0.7, P < 0.001). - Conclusion : The present investigation brings new findings on a scarcely studied facial element, the morphologic features of which are, for most, ethnic-dependent. As applied consequences, the results of the present work pave the road to better adapt adorning procedures of the eyebrows vis-à-vis ethnic and age specificities. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Protocol - Reproducibility of the image markings - Statistics - Retained parameters - RESULTS : Lengths of the eyebrows - Waviness of the eyebrows - Horizontality of the eyebrows - Magnitudes of the eyebrows DOI : 10.1111/ics12557 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18PZD6gtkLBN3dZyhzZiJwOPYFpFmF5kk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33202 [article]

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Assessing the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on some facial signs of differently-aged Chinese men / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 450-461 Titre : Assessing the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on some facial signs of differently-aged Chinese men Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; D. Amar, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 450-461 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Asiatiques Etudes cliniques Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau asiatique Perception de l'âge Vieillissement cutané Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To assess the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on the severities of some facial signs of Chinese men living in two close but differently polluted Chinese cities. - Materials and Methods : Standardized digital photographs were taken on 201 subjects from two cohorts of Chinese men (100 inhabitants of Baoding/very polluted and 101 inhabitants of Dalian/less polluted) differently aged (20–60 years) allowing a focus on 17 different facial signs. The latter were graded by 15 experts, using a clinical referential skin atlas. A questionnaire was filled by all subjects collecting their habits and uses with regard sun-exposures and skincare products. A naïve panel of 80 Chinese women, of comparable ages, attributed a perceived age to each subject under blind conditions. - Results : These confirm previous data obtained on Chinese women, with a similar protocol, i.e. that some facial signs show an increased severity in the more polluted city. However, changes in facial signs, with age, are of a different pattern according to gender. In Chinese men, most signs show early onsets with however low age-related changes, inversely to those observed in women, at the exception of vascular disorders. Habits of sun-exposures and uses of skincare product were found totally similar in both cohorts, reinforcing the specific role of UP in the progressive changes of facial signs. Similar to the results previously obtained on Chinese women, men living in a more polluted city were judged older than those living in a less polluted aerial environment. - Conclusion : The present work confirms that a more severe UP increases the severities of some facial signs in Chinese men. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Cities,weather conditions - Protocol - Pictures acquisitions - Evaluation and grading of facial skin aging signs - Appraisals by a naïve panel (perceptions by 'the others') - Statistics - RESULTS : Answers form questionnaire - Evaluation and grading of facial skin aging signs - Appraisals by the naïve panel (age perceptions by 'the others') DOI : 10.1111/ics12558 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zLFkcTex4UqjjSxHaEeiFiyCW2gzJzm0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33203 [article]

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Engineering optimisation of commercial facemask formulations capable of improving skin moisturisation / P. Mehta in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 462-471 Titre : Engineering optimisation of commercial facemask formulations capable of improving skin moisturisation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : P. Mehta, Auteur ; H. Picken, Auteur ; C. White, Auteur ; K. Howarth, Auteur ; K. Langridge, Auteur ; K. Nazari, Auteur ; P. Taylor, Auteur ; O. Qutachi, Auteur ; M.-W. Chang, Auteur ; Zeeshan Ahmad, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 462-471 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Composés inorganiques Cosmétiques -- Analyse Fibres Formulation (Génie chimique) Masques (cosmétique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Revêtements Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Introduction : The stratum corneum is the biggest obstacle in cosmetics with respect to skin moisturisation. Many approaches have been taken to overcome the barrier, one of which is incorporating natural cosmeceuticals into cosmetic products to enhance moisturisation effects. Here, a commercial facemask formulation was electrospun to develop dry facemasks capable of hosting cosmeceuticals within the pores of incorporated mesoporous silica. - Methods : Ethanolic solutions containing 40% w/w of the marketed facemask (7th Heaven Dead Sea peel*off facemask) and mesoporous silica were prepared and electrically processed at 30 µL min -1 at an applied voltage of 12 ± 2 kV. In vitro characterisation and release studies using fluorescein dye as a model probe were carried out. - Results : SEM images confirmed the fibrous nature of the resulting matrix; showing an average fiber diameter of 298.32 nm. The electrospun mask was found to be advantageous due to this fibrous nature providing high active loading capacity whilst demonstrating 100% probe release within 60 min. Contact Angle hysteresis, thermal analysis and Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) presented evidence of compatibility and stability of and within the formulation. - Conclusion : Adapting the formulation of a commercial polymeric facemask into an electrospun facemask has shown the versatility of the electrospinning process; now successfully crossing over into the cosmetic industry. Note de contenu : - Solution characterisation - Imaging and fiber diameter distribution - FTIR - Differential scanning calorimetry - Contact angle analysis - Release studies - Drying comparison DOI : 10.1111/ics12560 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L7GqJvvep7xtBtH5s2Si7Us9ZUyqsYWf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33204 [article]

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An automatic procedure that grades some facial skin structural signs: agreements and validation with clinical assessments made by dermatologists / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 472-478 Titre : An automatic procedure that grades some facial skin structural signs: agreements and validation with clinical assessments made by dermatologists Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; M. Hofmann, Auteur ; E. Roo, Auteur ; C. Raimbault-Gerard, Auteur ; B. Chuberre, Auteur ; Y. Zhang, Auteur ; R. Jiang, Auteur ; Irina Kezele, Auteur ; J. Zhang, Auteur ; E Elmozino, Auteur ; J. Coquide, Auteur ; Vincent Arcin, Auteur ; Parham Aarabi, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 472-478 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caucasien(ne)s Dermatologie Etudes cliniques Evaluation Femmes Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Système de notation Vieillissement cutané Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : To confirm the robustness and validity of an automatic scoring system, algorithm-based, that grades the severity of nine facial signs through "selfies" smartphones pictures taken by European Caucasian women through dermatological assessments. METHODS: 157 Caucasian women from three countries (France, Germany, Spain), of different ages (20-75 years), took one "selfie" image by the frontal camera of their smartphones whereas local dermatologists photographed them with the back camera of the same smartphone. The same nine facial signs of these subjects were initially graded by these local dermatologists, using referential Skin Aging Atlases. All 314 "selfies" images were then further automatically analyzed by the algorithm. The severity of facial signs (wrinkles, pigmentation, ptosis, skin folds etc.) were statistically compared to the assessments made by the three dermatologists, taken as ground truth. - RESULTS : Highly significant coefficients of correlation (P < 0.001) were found in the three cohorts between the grades provided by the system and those from dermatologists in live. The back camera - of a better resolution than the frontal one - seems affording slightly more significant correlations. However, although significantly correlated, the signs of vascular disorders and cheek skin pores present some disparities that are likely linked to the technical diversity of smartphones or self-shootings, leading to lower coefficients of correlations. - CONCLUSION : This automatic scoring system offers a promising approach in the harmonization of Dermatological assessments of skin facial signs and their changes with age or the follow up of anti-aging treatments. Note de contenu : - Subjects - Protocol - Statistics DOI : 10.1111/ics.12563 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15YUKd-XvjX_G9bcL0QhcIQjC6tPn3O6_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33214 [article]

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Characterization and topical delivery of phenylethyl resorcinol / Y. Zhang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 479-488 Titre : Characterization and topical delivery of phenylethyl resorcinol Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Y. Zhang, Auteur ; B. C. Sil, Auteur ; C.-P. Kung, Auteur ; J. Hadgraft, Auteur ; M. Heinrich, Auteur ; B. Sinko, Auteur ; M. E. Lane, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 479-488 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Cuirs et peaux de porcs Etude in vitro Peau humaine Phényléthyle résorcinol Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Phenylethyl resorcinol (PR) has been used widely in the personal care industry as a novel skin lightening ingredient. Surprisingly, there is only limited information describing the physicochemical properties of this active. Therefore, the primary objective of this study was to perform a comprehensive characterization of PR. A secondary objective was to investigate the delivery of this molecule to mammalian skin. - METHODS : Phenylethyl resorcinol was characterized using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). A new high-performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method for analysis of PR was developed and validated. The log P (octanol water partition coefficient), value, solubility and short-term stability of PR in a series of vehicles were also determined using HPLC. The evaporation of the selected vehicles was examined using dynamic vapour sorption (DVS). The permeation profiles of PR were investigated under finite dose conditions in porcine and human skin. - RESULTS : The melting point of PR was determined to be 79.13°C and the measured log P (octanol water partition coefficient) at 21 °C was 3.35 ± 0.03. The linearity of the HPLC analytical method was confirmed with an r2 value of 0.99. Accuracy of the method was evaluated by average recovery rates at three tested concentrations, and the values ranged from 99 to 106%. The limit of detection (LOD) and limit of quantification (LOQ) were 0.19 and 0.57 µg mL-1 , respectively. The solubility of PR in PG, DMI, glycerol was within the range of 367 to 877 mg mL-1 . The stability of PR in tested solvents was also confirmed by the 72 h stability studies. From the DVS studies, 70-125% of applied formulations were recovered at 24 h. The permeation through porcine skin at 24 h ranged from 4 to 13 µg cm-2 , while the corresponding amounts of PR delivered through human skin were 2 to 10 µg cm-2. - CONCLUSION : The physicochemical properties of PR confirm it is suitable for dermal delivery. In this study, propylene glycol was the most promising vehicle for PR delivery to human skin. Future work will expand the range of vehicles studied and explore the percutaneous absorption from more complex formulations. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) - Thermal analysis - Dynamic vapour sorption studies and preparation of PR solutions - UV, HPLC analysis and method validation - The log P (octanol water partition coefficient), solubility and stability determination - In vitro permeation studies and mass balance studies - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : NMR - Thermal analysis - DVS results - UV, HPLC analysis and method validation - The log P (octanol water partition coefficient), solubility and stability determination - Permeation studies DOI : 10.1111/ics.12565 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Me87OFDtFowEaJzTmQyrSF9j0M3NqAH7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33215 [article]

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Increase in subjective well-being and psychological health after application of C8-silk lipoamino acid functionalized pigments included in a foundation / Magalie Cabannes in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 489-195 Titre : Increase in subjective well-being and psychological health after application of C8-silk lipoamino acid functionalized pigments included in a foundation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Magalie Cabannes, Auteur ; C. Risselada, Auteur ; I. Chaisemartin, Auteur ; J. Pasquet, Auteur ; E. Couval, Auteur ; Jean-Yves Berthon, Auteur ; Edith Filaire, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 489-195 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cortisol Estime de soi Lipoaminoacides Les lipoaminoacides sont une partie de la famille des lipopeptides avec en présence un ou plusieurs acides aminés différents. Il existe 20 acides aminés naturels regroupés en fonction de la nature de leur chaîne latérale : non polaire neutre (alanine, phénylalanine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, méthionine, valine, tryptophane,…), polaire basique (arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, citrulline), et polaire acide (acide glutamique et acide aspartique). Les acides aminés peuvent être soit des acides aminés purs, soit des acides aminés provenant de l'hydrolyse totale des protéines tels le collagène, la caséine, l'élastine, la kératine. La partie lipidique des lipoaminoacides est composée d'une ou de plusieurs chaines grasses avec pour origine divers acides gras. Maquillage Pigments Statistique Stress Tests psychologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of two foundations before (D0) and after 5 days of application (D6) on psychophysiological parameters in order to compare C8-silk lipoamino acid functionalized pigments (FA) versus pure pigments (FP). - Methods : Assessment of self-esteem, stress, mood and emotion using psychological tests and evaluation of salivary cortisol concentrations were realized on 40 healthy females using a crossover study design at D0 and D6. Four saliva samples were taken on the awakening (C1), 30 min after the awakening (during the foundation application (C2)), 1 h after the foundation application (C3) and at 1900 h (C4) at DO and D6. Area under the curve was calculated in order to obtain information about the total amount of a given substance excreted in a specific time period. - Results : Five days of daily application of the foundation containing the pigments treated with the C8-silk lipoamino acids induced a significant increase (P < 0.001) in self-esteem and pleasant emotion (P < 0.05), and a significant decrease in general stress (P < 0.05). This was not the case after the FP application. Cortisol concentrations presented a pronounced diurnal rhythm whatever the foundation used. At DO, no significant differences were observed between the groups. At D6, cortisol concentrations measured 30 min and 1 h after the FA application were significantly lower (P < 0.05: C6.2, P < 0.05 C6.3, respectively) than those reported after FP application. AUC, a global stress response indicator, was significantly lower in FA group as compared to FP group after 5 days of application. Subjects found a decrease in tiredness signs and thought that FA has a good coverage. - Conclusion : Our results show that incorporation of C8-silk lipoamino acid as agent of pigment functionalization brings new benefits to a foundation. Adopting a psychophysiological approach, which is not invasive to the subjects, we show the measurement of cortisol at the same time that psychological indicators provide a scientific approach to examine the beneficial effects of a cosmetic product. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Foundation composition - Psychological parameters - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Salivary parameters - Psychological parameters Indice de classement : 10.1111/ics.12566 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/112YUFrmVka2wYp5CBk1b-7NQ0uBcy-nF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33225 [article]

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Bioactive compounds sourced from Terminalia spp. in bacterial malodour prevention : an effective alternative to chemical additives / Ian Edwin Cock in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 496-508 Titre : Bioactive compounds sourced from Terminalia spp. in bacterial malodour prevention : an effective alternative to chemical additives Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ian Edwin Cock, Auteur ; M. H. Wright, Auteur ; A. White, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 496-508 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Chimie analytique Cosmétiques Déodorants Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Microbiologie Odeur corporelle Pieds -- Odeurs Produits chimiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Recently, our group reported that extracts prepared from the Australian native plant Terminalia ferdinandiana Exell. are potent inhibitors of the growth malodorous bacteria with similar efficacy to triclosan and through these results, we highlighted a potential biological alternative to the current chemical additives. Other members of the genus Terminalia are also well documented for their antibacterial potential and tannin contents and thus were investigated as potential deodorant additives. - Methods : Solvent extractions prepared from of selected Indian, Australian and South African Terminalia spp. were screened by disc diffusion and liquid dilution assays against C. jeikeium, S. epidermidis, P. acnes and B. linens. The antibacterial activity was quantified by liquid dilution MIC assays. The extracts were screened for toxicity using Atremia franciscana nauplii and HDF cell viability bioassays. High-resolution time-of-flight (TOF) LC-MS and GC-MS headspace fingerprint analysis was used to detect tannin, flavonoid and terpenoid components in the extracts. - Results : Bacterial growth inhibition was observed in all Terminalia extracts with the methanolic T. chebula, T. carpenteriae and T. sericea extracts the most promising bacterial growth inhibitors, yielding MIC values as low as 200 µg mL-1. Toxicity analyses of the extracts were favourable, and we determined that the methanolic T. chebula, T. carpenteriae and T. sericea extracts were all non-toxic. Using previously detected T. ferdinandiana antimicrobials as benchmarks, LC-MS and GC-MS fingerprint analyses revealed similar compounds in the methanolic T. chebula, T. carpenteriae and T. sericea extracts. - Conclusion : Through these results, we propose that Terminalia spp. extracts may be useful deodorant additives to inhibit the growth of axillary and plantar malodorous bacteria, offering a biological alternative to their chemically synthesized counterparts. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Plant sources and extraction - Qualitative phytochemical studies - Antibacterial activity - Toxicity screening - HPLC-MS QTOF fingerprint analysis - GC-MS head space analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Liquid extraction yields and qualitative phytochemical screening - Growth inhibitory activity of the Indial Termnalia spp. extracts - Growth inhibitory activity of the Australian Terminalia spp. extracts - Growth inhibitory activity of the South African Terminalia spp. extracts - Quantification of minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) - Quantification of toxicity - Phytochemical fingerprint analysis DOI : 10.1111/ics.12567 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wma_WsyZYX43dzf8nY3veLv9MHLJ1WSP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33226 [article]

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Age, lifestyle and self-perceptions of hair : is there an association with hair diameter and tensile properties / Lane Duvel in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 509-515 Titre : Age, lifestyle and self-perceptions of hair : is there an association with hair diameter and tensile properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lane Duvel, Auteur ; A. Herbal, Auteur ; L. Daniels, Auteur ; R. Kong, Auteur ; Greg. G. Hillebrand, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 509-515 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Âge Biophysique Epidémiologie Indice de masse corporelle Perception Tabagisme Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To determine the association of age, lifestyle habits and the self‐perception of hair condition with the objectively measured physical properties of hair in Caucasian females with brown hair. - Methods : Hair biophysical properties, lifestyle habits data and self‐perceptions of hair condition were collected on 110 Caucasian females with brown hair ranging in age from 17 to 78. Hair diameter (cross‐sectional area) and tensile properties (elastic modulus, break strength and break extension) were measured at the root end of individual fibres (n = 100/subject) from the crown and frontal regions using objective instrumental methods. Other measures included body mass index (BMI) and Savin female pattern hair loss grades based on judging of standardized front, top and side view head images. Lifestyle habits and practices and self‐perceived hair condition were obtained via a standardized self‐assessment questionnaire. - Results : Hair fibre diameter and break extension decreased significantly with age. Hair fibre elastic modulus and Savin hair loss scores increased significantly with age. No age‐related change in hair fibre break stress was observed. A history of smoking or being overweight was significantly associated with having lower hair fibre cross‐sectional area but was not associated with any of the measured tensile properties. Subjects who perceived their hair as fine, thinning or weak had significantly lower cross‐sectional areas than subjects who did not. Subjects who perceived their hair to be healthy or strong had significantly higher cross‐sectional areas than subjects who did not. - Conclusion : The biophysical properties of hair change significantly with age. A history of smoking or being overweight was significantly associated with having smaller hair cross‐sectional area but was not associated with differences in hair tensile properties. The self‐perception of having strong or healthy hair seems more associated with having a larger cross‐sectional area than any real differences in hair strength. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study design - Hair sample collection - Self-assessment questionnaire - Hair cross-sectional area and tensile properties - Hair density via savin female pattern hair loss grades - Body mass index - Statistics - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Hair cross-sectional area by age, scalp site and hormonal status - Hair tensile property changes DOI : 10.1111/ics.12569 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rv8lJFUHuDPc9-B5OImxiCXWJpFwm8c6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33231 [article]

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