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Comparative sorption isotherms for colorants present in Dyers’ madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) provide new insights into historical dyeing / Lauren Ford in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018) . - p. 3-12 Titre : Comparative sorption isotherms for colorants present in Dyers’ madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) provide new insights into historical dyeing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lauren Ford, Auteur ; Christopher M. Rayner, Auteur ; Richard S. Blackburn, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 3-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption Adsorption Colorants -- Analyse Colorants végétaux Garance et constituants Laine Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Dyers madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been famously used throughout history as a source of red dye. The sorption onto mordanted wool of the major colorant components of R. tinctorum, alizarin and the glycosides ruberythric acid and lucidin primeveroside, is studied herein. Sorption of a purified 1:1 mixture of ruberythric acid:lucidin primeveroside most closely followed a Temkin isotherm (R2 0.925), whereas alizarin followed a Freundlich isotherm (R2 0.940). These results were compared with HPLC chromatograms of English, Turkish and Iranian varieties of R. tinctorum before and after dyeing, where it was observed that the glycosides are shown to have the highest uptake onto wool. The higher sorption energy of the purified 1:1 ruberythric acid:lucidin primeveroside mixture (–11.4 kJ mol−1) compared with alizarin (–5.8 kJ mol−1) is in agreement with the HPLC results, indicating that the ruberythric acid/lucidin primeveroside mixture has a substantially higher affinity for wool compared with alizarin. Not only do the glycosides show higher affinity for the wool, but greater interactions between adsorbed species suggest a more extensive aggregation of dye on the surface of the wool. These observations are in contrast with much of the literature and bring into question previous conclusions that alizarin was the main dyeing species throughout history. Note de contenu : - THEORY : Langmuir isotherm - Freundlich isotherm - Temkin isotherm - Adsorption energy - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Purification of 'ruberythric acid' by solid-phase extraction (SPE) - Dyeing process - Sorption isotherms - UV/visible spectrophotometry - High performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-DAD) - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : HPLC dyeing studies of Iranian, Turkish and English madder - Sorption isotherms of the purified 1:1 ruberythric acid : lucidin primeveroside mixture and alizarin DOI : 10.1111/cote.12327 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12327 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30122 [article]

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Ozone utilisation for discharge printing of reactive dyed cotton / Idil Yigit in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018) . - p. 13-23 Titre : Ozone utilisation for discharge printing of reactive dyed cotton Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Idil Yigit, Auteur ; Semiha Eren, Auteur ; Hüseyin Aksel Eren, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 13-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coton Le coton est une fibre végétale qui entoure les graines des cotonniers "véritables"(Gossypium sp.), un arbuste de la famille des Malvacées. Cette fibre est généralement transformée en fil qui est tissé pour fabriquer des tissus. Le coton est la plus importante des fibres naturelles produites dans le monde. Depuis le XIXe siècle, il constitue, grâce aux progrès de l'industrialisation et de l'agronomie, la première fibre textile du monde (près de la moitié de la consommation mondiale de fibres textiles). Impression sur étoffes Ozone Produits chimiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Résistance à l'abrasion Résistance au lavage Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Environmental pollution is one of the major concerns of the textile finishing sector. The reduction or substitution of the harsh chemicals used during dyeing and printing processes is necessary. In this study, the use of ozone for the discharge printing process was examined in order to substitute the use of reductive agent and caustic soda by ozone gas. The reactive dyed cotton samples were wetted by water and some selected solutions at 25%, 40% and 60% pick up were used and subjected to ozone gas treatment. The gas flow rates were 5 and 10 l/min for 5 and 10 min treatment times, respectively. The results were compared with that of conventional discharge printed samples. Colour discharge (%), colour difference (ΔE), strength, washing and rubbing fastness and chemical oxygen demand (COD) values were compared and reported. Colour discharge increased at higher gas flow rates and prolonged treatment times. Although ozone printing could not attain the contour sharpness of conventional discharge printing, the addition of selected chemicals affected colour discharge and the contour sharpness. Strength tests did not show a significant decrease when using ozone treatment. Fastness tests results (washing and rubbing) were slightly higher compared with conventional discharge printed samples. COD values were much lower for ozone treatment compared with conventional discharge printing effluent. Consequently, it was demonstrated that ozone may be an environmentally friendly substitute for discharge printing. Note de contenu : - Visual comparison - Colour discharge - Wash and rub fastness of the samples - Strength of the samples - COD evaluation DOI : 10.1111/cote.12306 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12306 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30123 [article]

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Computational modelling of the influence of substituent effects on phthalimidylazo disperse dye hydrolysis and interaction energy / Yi-Zhen Zhan in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018) . - p. 24-32 Titre : Computational modelling of the influence of substituent effects on phthalimidylazo disperse dye hydrolysis and interaction energy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yi-Zhen Zhan, Auteur ; Xue Zhao, Auteur ; Bi-Jia Wang, Auteur ; Wei Wang, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 24-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorants -- Synthèse Colorants azoïques Dynamique moléculaire Fonctionnelles densité La théorie de la fonctionnelle de la densité (pour Density Functional Theory, sous-entendu électronique : DFT) constitue au début du XXIe siècle l'une des méthodes les plus utilisées dans les calculs quantiques de la structure électronique de la matière (atomes, molécules, solides) aussi bien en physique de la matière condensée qu'en chimie quantique. La DFT trouve ses origines dans le modèle développé par Llewellyn Thomas et Enrico Fermi à la fin des années 1920. Hydrolyse Modèles numériques Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Six azo dyes have been synthesised using N-substituted phthalimides as diazo components. Substitution effects on dye hydrolysis and intermolecular interactions were investigated with density functional theory (DFT) at B3LYP/6-311G level. The results showed that the phthalimide moieties adopted a coplanar conformation in respect of the azo-coupled phenyl rings in all six dyes. N-Alkyl substitution had little influence on the absorption maxima. Bromo and cyano substitution on the phthalimide ring resulted in hypsochromic and bathochromic shifts of the absorption maxima respectively. Hydrolysis of the phthalimide ring was found to be largely influenced by steric effects rather than inductive effects of substituents. It was also found that π-stacking interactions of phthalimide/phenyl and phthalimide/phthalimide dimers were promoted by substituents. The results indicated that interactions are dominated by electrostatic and even more importantly dispersion forces. The computational results were also confirmed experimentally. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Spectrophotometry - Dye application - Measurements - DFT calculations - Synthesis of the phthalimidylazo disperse dyes - Synthesis of phthalimide intermediates - Synthesis of D1-D4, D5 and D6 - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Influence of substitution pattern on planarity - Influence of substituents on dye shade - Influence of substituents on hydrolytic properties - Influence of substitution on interaction energy DOI : 10.1111/cote.12316 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12316 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30124 [article]

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Structural, spectroscopic and computational study of 5-(substituted phenylazo)-3-cyano-1-ethyl-6-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridones / Jelena Mirkovic in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018) . - p. 33-43 Titre : Structural, spectroscopic and computational study of 5-(substituted phenylazo)-3-cyano-1-ethyl-6-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridones Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jelena Mirkovic, Auteur ; Bojan D. Bozic, Auteur ; Vesna D. Vitnik, Auteur ; Zeljko Vitnik, Auteur ; Jelena Rogan, Auteur ; Dejan Poleti, Auteur ; Gordana UÅ¡ćumlić, Auteur ; Dusan Mijin, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 33-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse numérique Analyse spectrale Colorants -- Analyse Colorants azoïques Cristallographie Structure cristalline (solide) Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Ten 5-(substituted phenylazo)-3-cyano-1-ethyl-6-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridones were studied (five new compounds) to provide insight into the electronic effects of diverse substituents located at different positions in their phenyl moieties. The structural features of these dyes were examined by combining experimental and theoretical approaches. The crystal structures of two derivatives were revealed by X-ray crystallography and diverse packing modes owing to different intermolecular interactions (π–π stacking and lone pair–π interactions, as well as hydrogen bonds) were found. A study on lattice energy and energy related to the molecular pairs obtained from their crystal packing was performed. The tautomerism and ionisation of the dyes in ethanol or N,N -dimethylformamide solution were rationalised in terms of diazo component substitution pattern. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and methods - Synthesis - X-ray crystallography - Theoretical calculations - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Optimised geometry in vacuum - Crystal structures of 5 and 7 - Experimental vs theoretical analysis of crystal packing - Spectroscopic characterisation DOI : 10.1111/cote.12321 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12321 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30125 [article]

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Effect of process conditions on the properties of surface-modified organic pigments encapsulated by UV-curable resins / Osama Abdel Hakeim in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018) . - p. 44-58 Titre : Effect of process conditions on the properties of surface-modified organic pigments encapsulated by UV-curable resins Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Osama Abdel Hakeim, Auteur ; A. A. Arafa, Auteur ; M. K. Zahran, Auteur ; L. A. W. Abdou, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 44-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Dispersions et suspensions Encapsulation Miniémulsions Monomères Pigments organiques Polymères -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet Traîtements de surface Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Aqueous dispersions of nanoscale organic pigments were successfully prepared via ball milling and ultrasonication. The dispersed organic pigments were encapsulated into UV-curable resins via a mini-emulsion technique. Critical factors that affected the dispersion and encapsulation stability were investigated. The encapsulated organic pigments were characterised with transmission electron microscopy, thermogravimetric analyses, Fourier Transform-infrared spectra and zeta potential. The results clarified that the type of dispersing agent plays an important role in achieving maximal dispersion stability. Encapsulated organic pigments showed greater dispersion stability, and better wettability than the original pigments. Polyester tetra-acrylate oligomer can stabilise the mini-emulsion from diffusion degradation and inhibit phase separation with time. 1,6-Hexandiol dimethacrylate was the monomer of choice for ink-jet printing inks. Furthermore, it was found that monomer/oligomer and pigment/resin ratios were more influential and needed to be optimised. Thermal analysis, ultracentrifuge sedimentation and morphologies provided supporting evidence for the encapsulation of organic pigments into UV-curable resins. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Preparation of nanoscale organic pigment dispersions - PREPARATION OF NANOPIGMENT DISPERSIONS : Effect of dispersing agent type - Effect of dispersing agent concentration - ENCAPSULATION OF ORGANIC PIGMENT INTO UV-RESINS : Effect of encapsulation on pigment morphology and size distribution - Effect of encapsulation on dispersion stability - Effect of monomer type on encapsulation stability - Effect of monomer/oligomer ratio on encapsulation stability - Effect of pigment/resin ratio on encapsulation stability - CHARACTERISATION OF ENCAPSULATED PIGMENTS DOI : 10.1111/cote.12318 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12318 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30126 [article]

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Assessing appearance and emotional attributes of coloured metallic paints / Ming-Jiu Huang in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018) . - p. 59-70 Titre : Assessing appearance and emotional attributes of coloured metallic paints Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ming-Jiu Huang, Auteur ; Hung-Shing Chen, Auteur ; Ronnier Luo, Auteur ; Pei-Li Sun, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 59-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Peinture métallisée vision des couleurs Index. décimale : 535.6 Couleur Résumé : The objective of this study was to investigate the agreement between multiangle appearance data obtained from multiangle measurements and the rating scores given by observers in terms of sparkle and coarseness. The metallic emotional equation for coloured metallic paints was developed on the basis of two experimental results. Experiment 1 involved measuring metallic paint appearance, and a multiangle spectrophotometer was used for measuring the appearance parameters of metallic coating samples under multiple measuring angles. In Experiment 2, observers were asked to visually assess coloured metallic samples under directional and diffuse light conditions. The observers assessed the test samples, illuminated from the top, from three observation angles. Principal component analysis was performed to analyse the observers’ emotional responses. Finally, the metallic emotional models consisting of the expensiveness model and fashion model were constructed. Note de contenu : - Test samples - Participants and viewing conditions - Experimental workflow - Analysis method and visual assessment DOI : 10.1111/cote.12317 En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/cote.12317/epdf Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30127 [article]

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Evaluation of antimicrobial and dyeing properties of walnut (Juglans regia L.) green husk extract for cosmetics / Tavoos Beiki in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018) . - p. 71-81 Titre : Evaluation of antimicrobial and dyeing properties of walnut (Juglans regia L.) green husk extract for cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tavoos Beiki, Auteur ; Ghasem D. Najafpour, Auteur ; Morteza Hosseini, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 71-81 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Cheveux -- Teinture Colorants végétaux Cosmétiques -- Conservation Extraction (chimie) Noix et constituants -- Propriétés tinctoriales Peau -- analyse Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Walnut green husk is one of the main waste products from walnut and could be used as a source of natural dyeing compounds such as juglone. The present study was conducted to evaluate the effective use of walnut green husk extract as a natural hair dye. Dyeing properties, fastness and antimicrobial behaviours of dyed hair and also a skin irritation test for natural hair dye on rat skin were examined. When the extract was mixed with ascorbic acid as a developer, ferrous sulphate as a mordant, and Aloe vera extract used as a secondary mordant and also a cosmetic ingredient, the reaction resulted in a dark-brown colour on hair samples. The dyed hair exhibited appropriate colour strength having excellent morphology for a hair surface coated with dye molecules. In addition, the dyed hair possessed good resistance to washing and daylight fastness, without any irritant properties as shown in a rat model, although high concentrations of iron-based mordant may be problematic for long-term usage. This paper also suggests the use of natural mordants such as lactic and oxalic acids to avoid any probable risks. Walnut green husk extract was an appropriate natural hair dyeing agent in practice and showed maximum antimicrobial activity compared with semi-synthetic and commercial hair dyes. The results demonstrated that walnut green husk can be used as an economical, valuable, eco-friendly and safe source of dyeing and antimicrobial agents for cosmetic products. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Raw material - Chemicals and experiments - Extraction - Evaluation of walnut green husk extract as natural hair dye - Determination of hair dyeability - Antimicrobial activity - Skin irritation test - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Evaluation of hair dyeability - Assessment of antimicrobial activity - Investigation of skin irritation DOI : 10.1111/cote.12322 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12322 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30128 [article]

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Mathematical models for water vapour resistance prediction of printed garments / Mladen Stancic in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 134, N° 1 (02/2018) . - p. 82-88 Titre : Mathematical models for water vapour resistance prediction of printed garments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mladen Stancic, Auteur ; Nemanja Kasikovic, Auteur ; Dragana Grujic, Auteur ; Dragoljub Novaković, Auteur ; Rastko MiloÅ¡evic, Auteur ; Branka Ruzicic, Auteur ; Jelka GerÅ¡ak, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 82-88 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Modèles mathématiques Résistance à la vapeur d'eau Statistique Textiles et tissus imprimés Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : The human body has developed a thermo-regulatory system that maintains an inner body temperature of approximately 37 °C. At excessive body temperatures, sweat mechanisms activate, resulting in a decrease in body temperature through sweat evaporation. Garments, depending on their characteristics, extensively affect the heat interchange process between the human body and the environment. Different printing processes change the characteristics of textile materials and therefore the garments made from these materials. This paper investigates the influence of digital printing parameters on the thermo-physiological features of textile materials. The effects of printing parameters on thermo-physiological characteristics of substrate materials were determined by measuring water vapour resistance. The obtained results show that printing parameters, in combination with material composition and material texture, have a large effect on the thermo-physiological characteristics of textiles. DOI : 10.1111/cote.12328 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12328 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30129 [article]

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