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PERSONAL CARE EUROPE / Taylor, Josh . Vol. 11, N° 5Mention de date : 11/2017Paru le : 17/11/2017 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierRegulatory update for EU and UK markets / Martin Perry in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : Regulatory update for EU and UK markets Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martin Perry, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 12-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cancérogènes
Chimie industrielle -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union européenne
Cosmétiques -- Législation
Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie
Métaux lourds -- Toxicologie
Microbilles
Mutagènes
Règlements de sécurité
Toxicologie de la reproductionIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The purpose of this article is to review the recent amendments that have been made to Regulations (EC) No 1223/2009 from 2015 up to the present time. It follows on from the article that appeared in the March 2015 edition of Personal Care Europe that reviewed all the amendments up to the end of 2014. It also looks at the draft regulation that the European Commission intends to implement for substances which are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction (CMR). The article concludes by looking at the United Kingdom government's intention to ban the use of plastic microbeads in rinse off products and the Cosmetic Commission of the German Federal Health Office's interpretation of technically unavoidable levels of heavy metals. Note de contenu : - Commission regulation (EU) 2015/1190
- Commission regulation (EU) 2015/1298
- Commission regulation (EU) 2016/314
- Commission regulation (EU) 2016/622
- Commission regulation (EU) 2016/1120
- Commission regulation (EU) 2016/1121
- Commission regulation (EU) 2016/1143
- Commission regulation (EU) 2016/1198
- Commission regulation (EU) 2017/237
- Commission regulation (EU) 2017/238
- Commission regulation (EU) 2017/1124
- Commission regulation (EU) 2017/1410
- Commission regulation (EU) 2017/1413
- Draft regulation - CMRs
- Plastic microbeads
- Heavy metals²En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eglCyZWYcTAGpyHQ-S9T6L4_To7OXUy-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29369
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Sun care broadens its appeal among consumers / Daniel Whitby in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : Sun care broadens its appeal among consumers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Daniel Whitby, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 16-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Attitudes
Cosmétiques
Études de marché
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Believe it or not, the first commercial sunscreen product was launched by Hamilton Laboratories in 1932 some eighty-five years ago. Today the global sun care market is valued at around US$16 billion with predictions that this will grow in value to US$25 billion by 2024 at an annual growth rate of 5.8%. In terms of performance these products are probably the hardest working on the market. Functionality of the formulation is key and, if the product does not perfor, the consumer will become aware of this very quickly, certainly within 24 hours of application. Originally viewed as a distress purchase, the formulations have become more innovative and sophisticated over time. Consumers now demand high levels of UVA protection, moisturising ingredients, anti-oxidants and a variety of challenging formats and textures more often encountered in everyday skin care. The fact that the products deliver on all these factors is testament to the skills of the scientists working in this category, with these products often being cited as the most difficult to develop of the whole personal care category. In the following article we review some of the recent trends in the category and also look forward to what the future might hold in terms of innovation and the implementation of technology. Note de contenu : - Current market situation
- Looking to the future
- Educating consumers
- Device-led protection
En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kP1GozMb02xQLPUVUyzykjFuoexyVeV_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29370
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Total transparency develops among Millennials / Barbara Brockway in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : Total transparency develops among Millennials Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Barbara Brockway, Auteur ; Heather Berry, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 21-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Approvisionnement dans l'entreprise
Chaine logistique
Consommateurs -- Attitudes
Consommateurs -- Préférences
Déontologie professionnelle
Entreprises -- Aspect moralIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The internet-savvy Millenials (also know as Generation Y) are influencing industries to pursue sustainable practices, and ultimately towards achieving total transparency. Millennials are accustomed to instant communication and are familiar with algorithms that make sense of big data. They cannot see why global supply chains are too complex to map. They expect the supply chain maps to be free from unethical practices. In a recent survey of over 10,000 global consumers, 78% found it 'somewhat or very important for a company to be transparent', 70% said that 'these I make it a point to know more about the companies I buy from'. In these uncertain times, brands must earn the trust of their consumers. Note de contenu : - The darker side of supply chains
- Giving materials a voice
- Emerging technologies to tag, trace and track
- Forensically secured cotton
- Trade invites cheats
- The trend for total transparency
- Despite independant auditing, the problems continue
En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1P_VzmGD0Rzi26ZarjmqM2AdpBHTqLUfq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29371
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The need for night-time sun care products / Stefan Bänziger in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : The need for night-time sun care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Bänziger, Auteur ; Julian Smits, Auteur ; Beatrix Senti, Auteur ; Ulrike Bätz, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 25-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Chimie analytique
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits après solaireIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : New discoveries indicate that the skin stress mediated by sunlight continues for hours after the skin has been exposed to UV irradiation; it continues even at night-time. Sunlight induces the generation of oxygen and nitrogen radicals that bring the skin's own melanin to an excited state. Subsequently, the melanin transfers this excess energy to the DNA, which ultimately causes delayed skin damage, so-called 'dark CPDs'. HerbaProtect NOX combines plant extracts from pomegranate flower, perilla leaf and kakadu plum, in a preservative-free, standardised and concentrated glycerol-based solvent system. The COSMOS-approved anti-ageing active acts on reactive oxygen and nitrogen species as well as on peroxynitrite, making it a perfect addition for sun care, after-sun or anti-ageing formulations that aim at protecting the skin against delayed sun-induced skin stress mediated by UV radiation, visible light or even infrared radiation. Note de contenu : - The generation of peroxynitrite causes damage long after UV exposure
- Counteracting delayed sun-induced skin damage
- Phytochemical analysis
- Reduction of peroxynitrite-mediated cell stress
- Reduction of dark CPD formation
- Immediate and long-term protection against sun-induced oxidative stressEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X1plgNnUCHhqQeQJ_YmlwxooeHmw_7hq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29372
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Natural UV care for middle-aged skin / Hideo Yamaguchi in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : Natural UV care for middle-aged skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hideo Yamaguchi, Auteur ; Norihiro Banno, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 31-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
Vieillissement cutané -- PréventionIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Are looks everything ? A survey indicated that both men and women value appearance more than personality as they age. Most men and women wish to remain young (or thought to be young) forever but facial changes are telltate signs that they are ageing. Wrinkles and dark sports on your face are what give an impression of ageing to others. it goes without saying that the major factor in ageing. Wrinkles and dark sports on your face are what give an impression on ageing to others. It goes without saying that the major factor in ageing of the skin in exposed areas, such as the face, is ultraviolet rays (UV), and knowledge that "ultraviolet rays are the enemy of beauty" is becoming firmly entrenched. Some people believe they sunburn more easily as they age and feel that somehow their skin becomes redder even though they follow their usual sun block routine. When we conducted a survey (Ichimaru Pharcos Internet Survey [7-11 July 2016]) on 522 women in their 20s to 60s residing in the Tokyo metropolitan area regarding sunburn, 35% of all respondents answered that "When I am exposed to strong sunlight, I sunburn more easily compared to in the past". This indicates that one in three people feel that "ageing makes it easier to get sunburned." Note de contenu : - Changes in the skin's reaction to UV and DAMPs (Damaga associated molecular patterns) as a result of ageing
- UV damage and DAMPs
- Rosa roxburghii fruit extract
- Supressing the expression of inflammation mediators due to DAMPs
- Suppressing erythema caused by UV
- Action = in suppressing photoageing tested on humans
En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N0mKdfp7hqU9MVMRJRwpS4GGCUNPWX3R/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29374
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Propanediol in a broad spectrum moisturiser / Mark Chandler in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : Propanediol in a broad spectrum moisturiser Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mark Chandler, Auteur ; David Shaw, Auteur ; Jerome Menzia, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 35-37 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Additifs biosourcés
Biocosmétiques
Cosmétiques -- Additifs
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Produits antisolaires
Produits chimiques -- Suppression ou remplacement
Produits hydratants
Propanediol
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau
Tests d'efficacitéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Zemea propanediol is a natural, preservative-boosting humectant for cosmetic formulations. A pure, petroleum-free diol, it offers high performance in a variety of applications and is certified 100% bio-based by the USDA BioPreferred programme. Benefits include its high purity, lack of skin irritation or sensitisation, improved humectancy and excellent sensory characteristics. Studies also have shown that Zemea propanediol can boost the efficacy of preservatives and reduce the amount of preservatives needed in formulations. The ingredient is certified natural by the Natural Products Association (NPA) and considered a derived organic ingredient under the definitions of ISO 16128-1. It can replace petroleum-based glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and glycerin in formulations, with functions including: humectant, solvent, emollient, hand-feel modifier, among others. In this article, the efficacy of Zemea propanediol in providing a range of benefits to a sunscreen formulation was assessed. Note de contenu : - Bio-based propanediol
- Combining organic and inorganic actives
- Phase formulation
- Water resistance
- Table 1. W/O broad spectrum, water resistant, SPF 25+ daily facial moisturiser
- Table 2. Evaluation of sun protection by SPF determination (FDA) - 40 and 80 minute water immersionEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sxre0UT4szsWeM-zhwRD6JSq3lBj9OQe/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29375
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Ingredient focus : silicone innovations / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
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Titre : Ingredient focus : silicone innovations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 40-41 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Additifs
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Silicones are incredibly useful and versatile products, making an enormous difference to personal care formulations across all areas. These polymers provide many benefits, including: waterproofing, retaining moisture, giving spread, adding shine to hair and imparting adherence to pigments. There are very few aspects of the industry that are not enhanced by the addition of a silicone ingredient. It would not be an exaggeration to claim that many qualities, such as longevity in colour cosmetics and luxurious skin-feel in skin care and hair care, that we take for granted now have been revolutionised thanks to silicone ingredients. They have been used in cosmetics and personal care since the 1950s but have as much relevance today as ever, due to increasing interest in mild formulations and a focus on innovative, pleasant textures. In addition, silicone elastomers are providing new avenues for silicone ingredients in the form of wrinkle-smoothing and line-blurring benefits. Following is a selection of some recent developments from leading silicone ingredient manufacturers. Note de contenu : - Silicone ingredients En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ezc4vcaL1clu0-LuELVqZuTtbEFDWTsF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29376
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Silicone surfactants in oil based systems / Tony O'Lenick in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
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Titre : Silicone surfactants in oil based systems Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tony O'Lenick, Auteur ; Thomas O'Lenick, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 43-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques en phase aqueuse
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Epaississants
Gélification
Huiles et graisses
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Surfactants
Tension superficielleIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Over the years Dr Rosen has examined, characterised, and evaluated many different types of surfactants and their ability to function to very specialised applications. His studies helped provide structure / function insights into how surfactants act iin aqueous systems. Building off his work with traditional fatty surfactants in water, the chemistry world was expanded into the realm of non-traditional systems. Such systems include silicone / hydrocarbon surfactants in oil based systems. A silicone / hydrocarbon system can be easily studied and characterised by following the blueprint set forth by Dr Rosen. Just like the systems that Dr Rosen studied, these systems take advantage of the fact that hydrocarbon and silicone are immiscible in each other and have surface activity. As it turns out, when studying the silicone systems, they behave much like fatty surfactants do in aqueous systems. It is perfectly legitimate to ask what is the 'CMC' of cetyl dimethicone in mineral oil or in olive oil. This paper will discuss the properties of silicone surfactants used in oil based anhydrous systems and compare them to standard surfactants in aqueous systems. Note de contenu : - Surfactants
- Surface tension lowering
- Gelation
- Oil-based rheology modifiers
- Emulsion stabilisation
- FoamEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yX8NZM4T5KmViYARIT0xVvkgwBaIF4ii/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29377
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Silicones and naturals : a perfect combination / Janet L. Duffy in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : Silicones and naturals : a perfect combination Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Janet L. Duffy, Auteur ; Karla A. Macian, Auteur ; R. U. Rojas Wahl, Auteur ; Echo Tan, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 51-54 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Angle de contact
Brillance (optique) -- Mesure
Cosmétiques -- Analyse
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The goal of this work was to give an impression of how some leading silicone technologies may help enhance the sensory and aesthetics of naturals used in personal care products. We conducted measurements related to the issue of reducing tack, oiliness and spreadability. In general, subject to the exceptions described above, silicones tended to effectively reduce the tack and oiliness and enhance spreadability. Comparisons were made between in vitro physical measurements and an in vivo expert sensory panel. Silicones often can be very useful sensory and performance enhancers in personal care products. Future work will include the design and testing of full personal formulations highlighting those benefits further. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1. Overview of the Normal Force (FN) measurements
- Fig. 2. Normal force measurements - a closer look at the low FN results
- Fig. 3. Shines measurements
- Fig. 4. Contact angle measurements
- Fig. 5. Sensory panelEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eTqD_z7f_L7FqSTymrJ9vbqEK5nn-a5D/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29380
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The link between function and structure of esters / Felix Wilson in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
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Titre : The link between function and structure of esters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Felix Wilson, Auteur ; Dani Loughran, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 57-60 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie organique
EstersIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Esters are one of the most widely used types of chemical compound in the world today. Their simple but versatile chemistry is used in applications as diverse as plastics, resins, explosives, bio-fuel, lubricants, paper, and in cosmetics and the personal care indutry. The majority of esters and either derived synthetically from petroleum or from natural triglycerides. The basic synthesis is shown in Figure 1. Petroleum-derived esters are expected to become more expensive due to the extreme variability of crude oil prices, which is likely to reduce their use. Growth in the global ester market is expected to be primarily driven by the increasing demand to esters in the biofuel and cosmetic industries. There is also an increasing demand for natural alternatives to petroleum-derivatives in personal care, which could be met by increased use of naturally derived esters. Note de contenu : - STRUCTURE RELATING TO FUNCTION : Sensorial properties of ester emollients - London dispersion forces - The effect of branching - The effect of unsaturation - Polyol-derived esters - Hydrogen bonding and hydroxyl groups - Cascade effect
- FUNCTIONAL PROPERTIES OF ESTER EMOLLIENTS : Compatibility with organic UV filters - Pigment wetting in colour cosmetics
- ESTER STABILITY
- FIGURES : 1. A reaction scheme for ester synthesis from an alcohol and a carboxylic acid - 2. A representation of London dispersion forces - 3. The structures of the oleic acid and its trans isomer, elaidic acid - 4. The structure of pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate
- TABLES : 1. The relationship between the molecular weight of different esters and their relative boiling points - 2. Interesting esters with their structure and propertiesEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/186IrGNxaEhqLFd8OzorVvngHEiErhmeY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29381
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Titre : The benefits of skin lipidomics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Oliver Uecke, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 62-63 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie analytique
Dermatologie
Lipides
Peau -- analyse
Spectrométrie de masseIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The lipid composition of human skin is essential for its function. However, the simultaneous quantification of a wide range of stratum corneum and sebaceous lipids is not trivial. We developed and validated a quantitative high-throughput shotgun mass spectrometry-based platform for lipid analysis of tape-stripped skin samples. Lipotype analyses also other types of skin samples, from monolayers to 3D models. It is now easy to investigate how the healthy skin lipidome is composed, how it changes in diseases or upon intervention with a drug or a cosmetic product. This lipidomic data can be used for cosmetic claim support, topical drug development and personalised cosmetics. More details about this method and its application can be found in: Sadowskii T. et al. 'Large-scale human skin lipidomics by quantitative, high-throughput shotgun mass spectrometry' Scientific Report 2017, doi: 10.1038/srep43761 Note de contenu : - Ultra-broad coverage
- Easy sampling
- Absolute quantification
- Reproducible results
- Full high-throughput
- Individual skin lipid profiles
- Advantages of lipidomics
- Table : Lipid classes covered by our method in skin samples
- FIGURES : 1. Tape sampling is comparable with scrape-biopsy - 2. Lipids are quantifiable in wide ranges - 3. Measurements are highly reproducible - 4. Various body spots have different lipid composition - 5. Skin lipid composition changes with ageEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rfosDp-xGRtqK1cOkzxH8lKrDGl-shpD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29382
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new generation of oil-compatible hydrated HA / Romain Reynaud in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
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Titre : A new generation of oil-compatible hydrated HA Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Romain Reynaud, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur ; Céline Dinant, Auteur ; Fabrice Lefevre, Auteur ; Ophélie Bourgon, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 65-67 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux.
Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique.
Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale.
Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)
Hydratation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
Rouges à lèvresIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The extremely high hydrophilic nature of hyaluronic acid (HA) prevents its incorporation into any oil base formula. Being one of the world leaders in premium quality HA production, Givaudan Active Beauty's experts have designed a new generation of highly hydrated HA which for the very first time can be formulated in oils and powders. Produced by means of a highly sustainable manufacturing process (biofermentation), a specific molecular weight HA (<50 kDa) is incorporated into a microemulsion to create PrimalHyal Gold, which has won the global Beauty Industry Award for the Best Color Cosmetics Ingredient. This new generation of HA allows us to break the previous limits of formulation by enabling it to be used in oily formulas. PrimalHyal Gold can be defined as: The first oil-compatible hydrated HA, Bringing skin long term hydration and Derived from a sustainable process. Note de contenu : - Designing a new type of HA
- Hydration assessment in a lipstick
- Results : capture of total water in the skin
- Results : capture of free water in the skin
- Schematic showing relationship of hyaluronic acid and TEWL in skin
- Table : Detailed formulations used for the ex vivo evaluatio
- FIGURES : 1. Analysis of total water content by Raman spectroscopy - 2. Analysis of free water content by Raman spectroscopy
En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A1XXi2z7m3h6P84Q735oBmlI7G1t2-ff/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29383
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017) . - p. 65-67[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Cosmetic properties of Sandalwood seed oil / DS Hettiarachchi in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : Cosmetic properties of Sandalwood seed oil Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : DS Hettiarachchi, Auteur ; S Jose, Auteur ; Y. Liu, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 69-72 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie végétale
Evaluation
Extraction (chimie)
Huiles et graisses végétales
Mesure
ToxicologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Seeds of the Western Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) are rich in drying fixed oil and consist of ximenynic acid. This unusual, rare acetylenic fatty acid contributes to several bioactivities including anti-inflammotory and vasodilatation. Sandalwood seed oil is a blend of ximenynic and oleic acids with the characteristics of carrier oil. A detailed multidisciplinary research was conducted on seed resource development from plantation level and suitable extraction method to obtain a product which is suitable and economically feasible for the cosmetic industry. The obtained product was tested for chemical and physical stability followed by toxicological and chemical screening to comply with regulatory requirements. Its bioactivity and the unusual chemistry have posed many challenges to the development process. This will be the story pf Western Autralian sandalwood seed oil's journey from soil to skin, and its contribution in sustaining the Western Australian sandalwood industry. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Plant material - Extraction - Physiochemical characterisation - Stability protocol - Biological and toxicological screening
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Seed source - Extraction method development - Characterisation of Santalum spicatum seed oil - Stability of Santalum spicatum seed oil - Toxicity and bioactivity screening
- TABLES : 1. Guideline limits and ranges provided for planters to select seeds with shells of santalum spicatum for seed processing and oil extraction - 2. Monograph developed for santalum spicatum seel oil extracted by supercritical carbon dioxide
- Figure : Long term oxidation of santalwood seed oil when protected from air at 40°C ; the red line indicates the limit of oxidation for oil stability. (red line is the limit of oxidation for shelf life expiry)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HZyrpzgdBDkz_AQFCYMbaLGTMZ_KTr3l/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29384
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Green tea polyphenols protect against pollution / Marlène De Matos in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : Green tea polyphenols protect against pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marlène De Matos, Auteur ; Hélène Foliguet, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 76-78 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PolyphénolsLes polyphénols constituent une famille de molécules organiques largement présente dans le règne végétal. Ils sont caractérisés, comme l’indique le nom, par la présence d'au moins deux groupes phénoliques associés en structures plus ou moins complexes, généralement de haut poids moléculaire. Ces composés sont les produits du métabolisme secondaire des plantes.
Les polyphénols prennent une importance croissante, notamment grâce à leurs effets bénéfiques sur la santé. En effet, leur rôle d’antioxydants naturels suscite de plus en plus d'intérêt pour la prévention et le traitement du cancer, des maladies inflammatoires, cardiovasculaires et neurodégénératives. Ils sont également utilisés comme additifs pour les industries agroalimentaire, pharmaceutique et cosmétique
"Ils ont tous en commun la présence d'un ou plusieurs cycles benzéniques portant une ou plusieurs fonctions hydroxyles". La désignation "polyphénols" est consacrée par l'usage et, alors qu'elle ne devrait concerner que les molécules portant plusieurs fonctions hydroxyle phénolique, elle est habituellement utilisée pour l'ensemble de ces composés.
Les polyphénols naturels regroupent donc un vaste ensemble de substances chimiques comprenant au moins un noyau aromatique, portant un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle, en plus d’autres constituants. Il y a quatre principales familles de composés phénoliques : les acides phénoliques (catéchol, acide gallique, acide protocatéchique), les flavones, l'acide chlorogénique et les quinones. Ils peuvent aller de molécules simples, comme les acides phénoliques, à des composés hautement polymérisés, de plus de trente mille daltons, comme les tanins (acide tannique).
Les polyphénols sont communément subdivisés en phénols simples, acides phénoliques et coumarines, en naphtoquinones, en stilbénoïdes (deux cycles en C6 liés par deux atomes de carbone), en flavonoïdes, isoflavonoïdes et anthocyanes, et en formes polymérisées : lignanes, lignines, tanins condensés. Ces squelettes carbonés de base sont issus du métabolisme secondaire des plantes, élaborés par la voie du shikimate.
Les polyphénols sont présents dans diverses substances naturelles : sous forme d'anthocyanine dans les fruits rouges, le vin rouge (en relation avec les tanins, phénomène du "paradoxe français"), sous forme de proanthocyanidines dans le chocolat et le vin, d'acides caféoylquinique et féruloylquinique dans le café, de flavonoïdes dans les agrumes, et sous forme de catéchines comme le gallate d'épigallocatéchine dans le thé vert, de quercétine dans les pommes, les oignons, le vin rouge, etc.
D'après une étude réalisée avec des volontaires via Internet, les sources alimentaires de polyphénols sont principalement le café (36,9 %), le thé — vert ou noir — (33,6 %), le chocolat pour son cacao (10,4 %), le vin rouge (7,2 %) et les fruits (6,7 %)18. Parmi les fruits, les polyphénols, très présents dans toutes les pommes, sont encore plus concentrés dans les pommes à cidre (riches en tanin), qui peuvent en contenir jusqu'à quatre fois plus : c'est une biodiversité qui se manifeste en richesse aussi bien qualitativement que quantitativement en polyphénols. (Wikipedia)
Thé vert et constituantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The impact of urban pollution on skin ageing has become one of the most important concerns of the cosmetic and personal care industry this century.
Manufacturers as well as active ingredient suppliers are trying to understand mechanisms of skin's self defence, and to provide the best products to fight those external agressions.Note de contenu : - THE EFFECT OF POLLUTION ON SKIN
- STABILISED POLYPHENOLS
- GREEN TEA, A NATURAL SOURCE OF POLYPHENOLS
- EPIDERMAL AND DERMAL STRUCTURE IMPROVEMENT : EX VIVO STUDIES : Effect on oxidative stress - Collagen and fibrilline synthesis stimulation
- SKIN OXYGENATION IMPROVEMENT : EX VIVO TEST AND CLINICAL STUDY : Anti-pollution activity - Oxygenation activity
- FIGURES : 1. Phytovector technology - 2. Simulation of collagen IV synthesis on skin explant at 0.25% of green tea extract - 3. Simulation of fibriline-1 synthesis on skin explant at 0.50% green tea extract - 4. Mode of action of green tea leaves extracts - 5. Oxygenating activity of green tea leaves extract after 28 days of treatment at 0.50%En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LsAWNSgI9-sYQgj16ueHk8cOSowA_9Ad/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29391
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Titre : The natural attributes of waxes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brian Ardito, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 81-83 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires
Ingrédients cosmétiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The desire for natural cosmetics and personal care products has taken the industry into an exciting and challenging direction over the past few years. Indie brands and startups are now seen as prozctive pioneers. They are growing and flourishing while leading the way forward in the segment. these small sompanies are often being purchased by large multinationals to secure market share in an increasingly competitive landscape. store shelves are lined with all things natural, constantly evolving through innovation and reacting to customer preference.
To capitalise on this growth, raw material suppliers and manufacturers are constantly using advanced chemistry and technology to unlock or discover the next unique natural ingredient. Natural waxes have existed far longer than the personal care and cosmetic industry. Natural waxes are simple, effective, safe and offer a multitude of performance characteristics that enable formulators to create cosmetic and personal care products tailor made to ride the natural wave that we find ourselves on.Note de contenu : - What is natural ? Why is it so fashionable ?
- What s wax ?
- Beeswax
- Carnauba wax
- Candelilla wax
- Laurel wax
- Genuine rice bran waxEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B6WzJFGfKTBP9e5Qv9H7GzHSaZ4LOOx3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29392
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A firmer skin from the elixir of life mushroom / Julia Comas in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : A firmer skin from the elixir of life mushroom Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julia Comas, Auteur ; Olga Laporta, Auteur ; Marie Ollagnier, Auteur ; Sylesh Venkataraman, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 85-87 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Biomolécules actives
Champignons et constituants
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Shiitake mushroom has been recognised throughout history for its youth-promoting benefits, even being ackowledged as an elixir of life. In terms of its application in skin care, a shiitake mushroom-based extract has been recently selected to provide rejuvenating and firming effects to the skin of the face, neck and décolleté. More specifically, Actifcol advanced botanical ingredient has shown to offer a holistic care of the collagen protein, by helping increase its synthesis, improve its quality, through the PLOD1 gene, and reduce its deterioration process caused by carbamylation. When evaluated on mature skin, it showed to enhance firmness and to achieve a more isotropic skin behaviour, typical of a younger skin. Note de contenu : - Microarray analysis
- Type i collagen induction
- Increase in PLOD1
- Decrease in carbamylation
- Improvement in collagen structure and organisation
- Molecular structure
- Fibril organisation
- Enhance in firmness : Maximal deformation - Anistropy (skin linearity) - Visible tighnessEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yC6cSeX0SnrDofiODCqNwo6FS-9hOG5U/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29398
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Putting the fun and funk into textures / Trevor Barker in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
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Titre : Putting the fun and funk into textures Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Trevor Barker, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 89-91 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Texture Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Over the last 10 years the UK personal care market has seen a steady shift towards more innovative and novel textures in all areas. This rise in more sensorial products can be tracked back to the gunks, goos and fudges that predominated in hair styling in the noughties. It is fair to say that more recently there is an 'anything goes' approach to new launches where fun and funky is the new luxury. The following article addresses some of the technical advances and, indeed, the reinvented technologies which have helped to drive this textural revolution. Note de contenu : - Bouncy
- Clouds
- Bubbles
- Goo
- Metamorphism
- Cushion
- Scrubs
- Melty
- Water
- Trouble shootingEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U7wSxymImJn98xiTmY2LFahQOrijW6hR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29399
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The future of biodegradable emollients / Sabrina Mizaël in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : The future of biodegradable emollients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabrina Mizaël, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 93-94 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcanes
Analyse sensorielle
Biocosmétiques
Biodégradation
Emollients
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The cosmetic market is in a continual search for more innovative, functional, and environment-friendly ingredients. As such, Emostart and Emogreen have been awarded on several occasions by industry. These two ranges of emollients, readily biodegradable and endowed with sensory attractiveness, respond to consumer demand. Note de contenu : - Readily biodegradable and high purity alkanes
- One step closer to sustainable and responsible cosmetics
- An infinite spreading
- Mattifying effect
- Let the story of senses begin...
- Emollients for all types of applications
- Table : Emosmart and Emogreen ranges main characteristics
- FIGURES : 1. Friction coefficient measurement at different spreading speeds (tribology) - 2. Measurement of brightness by reflectometer - 3. Sensory cascadeEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1emAnNDgKMM9j5e4JKGF_bT3Dx3TlW6yG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29400
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