Research on innovative design methods of intangible cultural heritage in leather products / Han Xu in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIX, N° 3 (03/2024)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIX, N° 3 (03/2024) . - p. 119-131 Titre : Research on innovative design methods of intangible cultural heritage in leather products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Han Xu, Auteur ; Han Chen, Auteur ; Biyu Peng, Auteur ; Luming Yang, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 119-131 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Conception technique Couleur -- Dans l'art Couture Innovations Motifs (arts décoratifs) Patrimoine culturel -- Analyse Patrimoine technique Point de croix Recherche Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Intangible cultural heritage is an important symbol of a nation’s historical and cultural achievements, containing rich connotations and high artistic value. Leather products, as a significant component of modern fashion, have a wide range of market demand. To address the issues of traditional patterns in intangible cultural heritage not matching modern aesthetics and lacking application scenarios, this study takes leather products as carriers and proposes an innovative design paradigm for traditional clothing patterns. We chose the Miao cross-stitch patterns of Guizhou, China, as a case study. Analyzed their subject connotations, common structures and features. Using split grammar and shape grammar, the patterns are deconstructed and reassembled to obtain foundational innovative patterns. The Mean-shift clustering algorithm was applied to extract the classic colors of Miao cross-stitch patterns. Based on fractal theory and computer algorithms, a novel pattern model for Miao cross-stitch was proposed, incorporating representative patterns and colors to complete pattern designs. Finally, the feasibility of the proposed approach was validated through the practical design of leather fashion accessories on the Style 3D platform. This study aims to provide methodological references for the modernization and innovation of intangible cultural heritage, as well as the diverse integration of leather products design. Note de contenu : - RESEARCH BASIS : Patterns motifs - Pattern structure - Pattern color - METHODS : Elemental derivation methods - Mean-shift color clustering algorithm - Fractal pattern design method - Design paradigm - APPLICATION : Derivation of Miao cross-stitch element - Color design of Miao cross-stitch - Miao cross-stitch pattern design - The application of cross-stitch patterns in leather apparel - Table 1 : Classification and extraction of Miao cross-stitch patterns - Table 2 : Classic pattern colors and their RGB values DOI : https://doi.org/10.34314/jalca.v119i3.8265 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qp_XpW8G8ymFGSO9FvqL3MyAYkiCWUtx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40618 [article]

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Revitalizing tradition enhancing sustainability and aesthetics in ethiopian leather clothing / Genet Teka in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 108, N° 4 (07-08/2024)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 108, N° 4 (07-08/2024) . - p. 176-184 Titre : Revitalizing tradition enhancing sustainability and aesthetics in ethiopian leather clothing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Genet Teka, Auteur ; Lidiya Yilma, Auteur ; Solomon Tsegaye, Auteur ; Ketema Alemu, Auteur ; Wegene Demisse, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 176-184 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Artisanat Debelo Lemed Patrimoine culturel -- Analyse Vêtements en cuir Vêtements traditionnels -- Ethiopie Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : This study explores the traditional Ethiopian leather garments, Debelo (hair-on leather clothing) and Lemed (hairless leather clothing), delving into their cultural significance and examining contemporary challenges that diminish their usage. Through a thorough analysis of traditional manufacturing processes and a comparison of physical properties of leathers processed by traditional and modern tanning techniques, we shed light on the practical limitations of these garments, including heaviness, strong odours, colour fading, and a lack of modern design elements. By employing a mixed-methods approach of interviews, questionnaires, and physical property testing, we trace the declining trend in the use of Debelo and Lemed. We propose innovative solutions that integrate modern tanned leathers with traditional craftsmanship, aiming to enhance the sustainability, aesthetic appeal, and physical quality of these garments. This approach seeks not only to overcome the practical limitations but also to rejuvenate these vital components of Ethiopian cultural heritage, ensuring their continued relevance in the global fashion industry. The research highlights the importance of preserving traditional crafts by adapting them to contemporary needs, thus contributing significantly to the field of cultural artifact conservation and sustainable fashion. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL SECTION : Materials and methods - Data collection and sampling - Geographical domain for the research - Comparative evaluation of physical and organoleptic properties of traditional and modern tanned sheep leathers : An analysis of hair-on and hairless varieties - Understanding the decline in traditional Debelo and Lemed leather garments : An analytical perspective - Improving the material quality and design of Debelo and Lemed leather garments - Physical and organoleptic properties of hair-on and hairless sheep leathers processed through traditional and modern techniques - - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Time-honored leather processing techniques of Amhara artisans - Traditional methods in Ethiopian Debelo and Lemed garment making - - Table 1 : Area of data collection and number of participants for data collection En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Uh79YnubxB2xOVsg6_9COOkj95iKkT8L/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41404 [article]

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