Creating a high-quality wool-oriented Turkish merino herd and investigation of mechanical and dyeability properties of fabrics produced from Turkish merino in comparison with Australian merino / Riza Atav in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 139, N° 6 (12/2023)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 139, N° 6 (12/2023) . - p. 689-702 Titre : Creating a high-quality wool-oriented Turkish merino herd and investigation of mechanical and dyeability properties of fabrics produced from Turkish merino in comparison with Australian merino Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Riza Atav, Auteur ; Bürhan Bugdayci, Auteur ; Ayse Sen, Auteur ; Ugur Ergünay, Auteur ; Pelin Gürkan Ünal, Auteur ; Emel Özkan Ünal, Auteur ; Gökmen Karagöz, Auteur ; Raziye Isik, Auteur ; M. Ihsan Soysal, Auteur ; Muhittin Özder, Auteur ; Sezen Arat, Auteur ; Büsra Eroğlu, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 689-702 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Boulochage Colorimétrie Feutrage Fibres textiles -- Propriétés mécaniques Laine de mouton Mérinos Le mérinos est une race ovine originaire d'Espagne élevée principalement pour sa laine. - Production lainière : La race des mérinos est championne du monde de la production lainière[réf. souhaitée]. La laine de mérinos est surtout recherchée pour sa finesse (exprimée en microns) et sa blancheur, laquelle provient d'un fastidieux processus de croisements de moutons à travers les siècles, faisant des moutons mérinos une race dite « pure ». En effet, contrairement à la croyance populaire, la laine n'est pas toujours blanche, mais se matérialise plutôt en une déclinaison de couleurs variant entre le crème, le gris, le beige, le brun et le noir7,8. De nos jours, 90 % de la laine mérinos utilisée par l'industrie de la mode vient d'Australie. - Caractéristiques : La qualité de la laine est appréciée via la finesse (diamètre de la fibre mesurée en micron µm, critère majoritaire) et la longueur mesurée en millimètre (de 65 à 100 mm). La laine est catégorisée en : épaisse (23–24.5 µm), médium (19.6–22.9 µm), fine (18.6–19.5 µm), superfine (15–18.5 µm) et ultrafine (11.5–15 µm). Cette finesse (les autres laines de mouton ont un diamètre de fibre moyen de 37 µm) fait que les tenues en laine mérinos sont ultra légères, sèchent très vite, isolent mieux, ne grattent pas et sont infroissables. (Wikipedia) Photostabilité Résistance à l'abrasion Résistance à la traction Statistique Textiles et tissus -- Analyse Textiles et tissus -- Lavage Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Today, the need for quality wool suitable for worsted fabric production in the world is mainly met by Australian merino wool. In Turkey, which has a significant sheep population, in addition to domestic breeds, approximately 10% of the total sheep population (around four million head) is composed of merino cross breeds. However, the fleece quality is far from meeting Australian merino wool standards. Therefore, the aim of this study is to ensure a merino herd with high-quality wool in Turkey. For this aim, by carrying out field studies in the Thrace region of Turkey where Turkish Merino sheep are widely bred, sheep with fleece that can meet the demands of the worsted industry were determined. As a result of field studies in which thousands of sheep were examined, it was determined that 43 female and 10 male sheep had fleece that would meet these standards. Then the breeders of the sheep, which had quality fleece, were persuaded and these sheep were purchased, and “Turkey's wool-oriented Turkish (Karacabey) Merino Herd” consisting of 30 sheep and three rams was formed in the farm of Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University. In the second part of this study, a 100% wool fabric produced by using Australian merino was taken as a reference and it was aimed to produce the same fabric from Turkish merino wool. For this aim, the wool-oriented Turkish Merino herd, which was bred at the university farm for 1 year, was shorn in May 2022. Then, Turkish and Australian merino wools were first converted into worsted yarn and then into woven fabric. The results of mechanical (tensile strength, pilling, abrasion resistance, felting shrinkage, Hofmann dimensional change, bending stiffness) and dyeability (dye-uptake, CIE L*a*b* and colour yield (K/S) values; washing, rubbing and light fastness values) properties of fabrics produced from Turkish and Australian merino wool is presented. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Investigation of fibre properties - Investigation of fabric properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Results related to fibre properties - Results related to fabric properties - Table 1 : Age and sex distribution of sheep from which wool samples were taken - Table 2 : Factors and levels used in the statistical evaluation of fibre fineness - Table 3 : Test results of fabrics made from Turkish merino and Australian merino wool - Table 4 : Colour measurement results of fabrics produced from Turkish merino and Australian merino wool - Table 5 : Washing, rubbing and light fastness test results of dyed fabrics DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12680 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12680 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40120 [article]

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Effect of the ozonation process on the dyeability of mohair fibres / Riza Atav in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 127, N° 3 (2011)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 127, N° 3 (2011) . - p. 159-166 Titre : Effect of the ozonation process on the dyeability of mohair fibres Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Riza Atav, Auteur ; Abbas Yurdakul, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : p. 159-166 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Laine Mohair Ozonation Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : This work has focused on the use of ozonation in order to improve the dyeability of mohair fibres. The study was carried out using a known concentration of ozone and involved process parameters such as wet pick-up, level of pH and treatment time. The effect of fibre ozonation was assessed in terms of colour, and test samples were also evaluated using scanning electron microscopy and Fourier transform–infrared spectroscopy. The optimum conditions of the ozonation process were determined as 60% wet pick-up, pH 7 and 30 min. According to the experimental results, it can be concluded that ozonated mohair fibres can be dyed both at 90 and 80 °C with all dye classes without causing any decrease in colour yield. Dyeing kinetics and thermodynamics were also studied and it was demonstrated that the rate constant and the standard affinity of the ozonated sample increased. Note de contenu : EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Ozone treatment - Fibre dyeability - Alkali solubility - Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy - Scanning electron microscopy - Fibre dyeability of optimised ozone-treated mohair using different classes of dyes - Kinetic and thermodynamic study. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Optimisation of the ozonation treatment - Effect of the ozonation treatment on fibre dyeability with various dye classes - Effect of the ozonation treatment on dyeing kinetics and thermodynamics. DOI : 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2011.00293.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2011.00293.x/pdf Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=12194 [article]

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Investigation of the clean patterning possibilities on cotton socks through laser technology / Riza Atav in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 139, N° 5 (10/2023)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 139, N° 5 (10/2023) . - p. 578-595 Titre : Investigation of the clean patterning possibilities on cotton socks through laser technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Riza Atav, Auteur ; Sevda Köksal Daban, Auteur ; Erdogan Cetin, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 578-595 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption Chaussettes Collants (textile) Colorants réactifs Coton Le coton est une fibre végétale qui entoure les graines des cotonniers "véritables"(Gossypium sp.), un arbuste de la famille des Malvacées. Cette fibre est généralement transformée en fil qui est tissé pour fabriquer des tissus. Le coton est la plus importante des fibres naturelles produites dans le monde. Depuis le XIXe siècle, il constitue, grâce aux progrès de l'industrialisation et de l'agronomie, la première fibre textile du monde (près de la moitié de la consommation mondiale de fibres textiles). Elasthanne Fibres polyesters Lasers -- Applications industrielles Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.9 Revêtements et enduits Résumé : The aim of this research is to reveal the effect of laser treatment at different resolutions (10, 20 and 30 dpi) and pixel times (80, 100 and 120 μs) on reactive dye uptake of cotton fabrics and the fastness values obtained. Yellowness index, Fourier Transform–infrared analysis, scanning electron microscopy analysis and bursting strength tests were applied to samples. The samples treated with laser were dyed in lighter shades than the untreated ones, with all three of the reactive dyes used in the experiments. In general, colour yield values decreased when the resolution and pixel time increased. However, no significant change was observed in washing, rubbing, light and perspiration fastness values. The possibilities of obtaining various patterns on cotton socks dyed with reactive dyes by laser treatment at different resolutions and pixel times were also investigated. According to the results, it was determined that if laser treatment was not applied to some parts of reactive dyed cotton socks, and 10 dpi 100 μs and 20 dpi 100 μs laser was applied to other parts of those socks, then it was possible to obtain patterns with different shades of the same colour on the socks. On the other hand, laser application after dyeing does not have a negative effect on fastness values. After determining the optimum conditions for the laser process, non-see-through tights were produced with cotton yarn on the front and polyester/elastane yarn on the back, and patterns were obtained by applying laser treatment before or after dyeing via sample scale industrial production. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : - Effect of laser treatment on the dyeability of cotton socks with reactive dyes - Obtaining patterns on reactive dyed cotton socks with laser - Obtaining patterns on tights produced by the sock knitting technique with a laser before or after reactive dyeing in sample scale industrial production - Tests and analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : - Results regarding the effect of laser treatment on the dyeability of cotton socks with reactive dyes - Results related to obtaining patterns on reactive dyed cotton socks with a laser - Results related to obtaining patterns on tights produced by the sock knitting technique with laser treatment before or after reactive dyeing in sample scale industrial production DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12668 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12668 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39837 [article]

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Investigation of the dyeability and various performance properties of fabrics produced from flax and hemp fibres and their blends with cotton in comparison with cotton / Riza Atav in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 3 (06/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 3 (06/2024) . - p. 440-450 Titre : Investigation of the dyeability and various performance properties of fabrics produced from flax and hemp fibres and their blends with cotton in comparison with cotton Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Riza Atav, Auteur ; Durul Büşra Dilden, Auteur ; Seda Keskin, Auteur ; Ugur Ergünay, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 440-450 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coton Le coton est une fibre végétale qui entoure les graines des cotonniers "véritables"(Gossypium sp.), un arbuste de la famille des Malvacées. Cette fibre est généralement transformée en fil qui est tissé pour fabriquer des tissus. Le coton est la plus importante des fibres naturelles produites dans le monde. Depuis le XIXe siècle, il constitue, grâce aux progrès de l'industrialisation et de l'agronomie, la première fibre textile du monde (près de la moitié de la consommation mondiale de fibres textiles). Fibres de chanvre Fibres textiles -- Propriétés mécaniques Fibres textiles -- Propriétés physiques Fibres végétales Lin et constituants Le lin cultivé (Linum usitatissimum) est une plante annuelle de la famille des Linaceae cultivée principalement pour ses fibres, mais aussi pour ses graines oléagineuses. Les fibres du lin permettent de faire des cordes, du tissu (lin textile pour ses qualités anallergiques, isolantes et thermorégulateurs), ou plus récemment des charges isolantes pour des matériaux de construction. Les graines sont utilisées pour produire de l'huile de lin pour l'industrie de l'encre et de la peinture, pour la consommation humaine et animale, à cause de sa richesse en oméga 3. Le lin est une des rares fibres textiles végétales européennes. Elle a comme caractéristiques la légereté, la rigidité et la résistance et comme particularité d'être une fibre longue (plusieurs dizaines de centimètres), par rapport aux fibres courtes (coton, chanvre) ou moyennes (laine). Mélanges de fibres Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : In this study, it is aimed to provide alternative fibres to cotton with enhanced comfort level, environmentally friendly and colour-enriched in the cellulosic knitted fabric field. For this purpose, in addition to 100% cotton, 100% linen, 100% hemp yarns, knitted fabrics were produced from 70% cotton/30% linen and 70% cotton/30% hemp yarns. First of all, the properties of yarns such as tenacity, elongation at break, yarn unevenness, thin places, thick places and neps were examined comparatively. Then, pique fabrics were produced from these yarns and dyed with a reactive dye to a selected colour. Afterwards, physical (weight, wale/course density), mechanical (bursting strength, pilling, abrasion resistance) and comfort (air permeability and water vapour permeability) properties of all fabric samples, both in raw form and after dyeing and finishing processes, were compared. Furthermore, dyeing properties (colour, dye-uptake, dyeing levelness, fastness) of fabric samples were also investigated. The dye uptake (%) values of the yarns decrease in the order of cotton > cotton/hemp > cotton/linen > hemp > linen. However, fastness values of dyed fabrics were nearly identical. Physical and mechanical properties of fabrics were very similar, while the air permeability of the fabrics decrease in the order of hemp > linen > cotton/hemp > cotton/linen > cotton. As a result of the study, it has been possible to produce knitted fabrics with superior performance characteristics (dyeability, comfort, etc.) from yarns produced via blending natural cellulosic fibres (flax and hemp) with certain proportions of cotton fibres, which contribute to sustainable production. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Physical tests for determination of yarn properties - Tests for determination of fabric properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Yarn properties - Fabric properties DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12720 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16tUgGdpFHLJMmgrnFZ5LX5iw5ZMM0y4n/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40961 [article]

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Investigation of the effect of laser technology on the colouring and patterning possibilities in polyacrylonitrile socks / Riza Atav in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 138, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 138, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 368-377 Titre : Investigation of the effect of laser technology on the colouring and patterning possibilities in polyacrylonitrile socks Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Riza Atav, Auteur ; Sevda Köksal Daban, Auteur ; Erdogan Cetin, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 368-377 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Chaussettes Lasers -- Applications industrielles Polyacrylonitrile Résistance chimique Rouge (couleur) Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiques Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : The aim of the current study was to determine the effect of laser treatment on basic dye uptake and the fastness values of acrylic socks. To achieve this, laser treatments were applied to acrylic socks at different resolutions (10, 20 and 30 dpi) over various pixel times (80, 100 and 120 µs) before dyeing. To support the findings obtained, tests and analyses, such as Yellowness Index, Fourier Transform–infrared analysis, scanning electron microscopy, scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy, and bursting strength, were also applied to untreated and treated fabric samples. It was found that treatment with laser did not have a significant effect on the basic dye uptake of fibres; nevertheless, the samples treated with laser were dyed slightly lighter than the untreated sample. Furthermore, it was determined that the samples treated at 30 dpi started to melt and the fabric was damaged considerably, but the fabrics treated at 10 and 20 dpi were not affected at all. Another result obtained regarding the use of laser technology in acrylic socks is that if some areas of acrylic socks are not treated with laser, while some other areas are treated with laser at 20 dpi for 100 µs, it is possible to obtain patterns containing two different shades of the same colour on the socks. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Effect of laser treatment on the dyeability of polyacrylonitrile socks with basic dyes - Obtaining patterns on basic dyed polyacrylonitrile socks with laser - Tests and analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Results regarding the effect of laser treatment on the dyeability of polyacrylonitrile socks with basic dyes - Results related to obtaining patterns on basic dyed polyacrylonitrile socks with laser - Table 1 : Factors and levels used in laser treatments - Table 2 : Yellowness Index values of laser-treated fabric samples - Table 3 : Scanning electron microscopy photographs of untreated and laser-treated polyacrylonitrile samples - Table 4 : Scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy results of untreated and laser-treated acrylic fibres - Table 5 : Analysis of variance results for K/S obtained as a result of dyeing untreated and laser-treated fabric samples with Astrazon Red FBL dye - Table 6 : Washing and rubbing fastness values of untreated and laser-treated fabric samples dyed with Astrazon Red FBL - Table 7 : Acidic and alkali perspiration fastness values of untreated and laser-treated fabric samples dyed with Astrazon Red FBL DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12596 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12596 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37889 [article]

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Optimisation of laser fading process in denim trousers : An industrial scale approach / Riza Atav in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 4 (08/2024)  

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The use of nutshell firstly as a natural dye for cotton and wool and then as a natural adsorbent for colour removal of basic dye effluent / Elçin Güneş in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 133, N° 1 (02/2017)  

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