Cosmetic UV filters in the environment-state of the art in EU regulations, science and possible knowledge gaps / Sascha Pawlowski in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 52-66 Titre : Cosmetic UV filters in the environment-state of the art in EU regulations, science and possible knowledge gaps Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sascha Pawlowski, Auteur ; Laura Henriette Luetjens, Auteur ; Alina Preibisch, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Mechtild Petersen-Thiery, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 52-66 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie industrielle -- Législation -- Pays de l'Union européenne cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Produits antisolaires Règlements de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The aim of this work was to review the principals of environmental hazard and risk assessment (ERA) of cosmetic UV filters registered under EU REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals). Furthermore, effects as obtained from non-standardized testing methods and organisms from scientific literature were compared against the predicted no effect concentrations (PNECs) as derived based on standardized test methods for the various environmental compartments under REACH. - Methods : The REACH dossiers at the ECHA webpage were screened for available information related to basic physico–chemical data (i.e. water solubility, octanol–water partitioning coefficient), PNECs and associated data (data basis, assessment factors (AFs)). Scientific literature was screened for available ecotoxicity data and the adverse effect levels were compared against the derived PNECs under REACH. Current approaches for environmental risk assessments of UV filters were evaluated for its applicability for a direct release scenario. - Results : Under REACH, PNECs were derived for all hazardous UV filters. Although, PNECs were often derived for various environmental compartments (i.e. freshwater, marine water, sediment, soil), results from literature focused on aquatic data. Effects as observed within scientific literature matches in principle with the hazardous profile of the UV filters. Effects levels both on the acute and the chronic toxicity as retrieved from the non-standardized test organisms (literature) were above the derived PNECs under REACH. Currently, ERAs performed for cosmetic UV filters under REACH are solely tonnage driven and thus do not fully capture the use in sunscreens and associated leisure activities. - Conclusion : Existing EU REACH regulation is considered as sufficient to evaluate the environmental safety of UV filters used in sunscreens. To cover the direct release of UV filters due to various leisure activities into the aquatic freshwater and marine environment, an additional application-based ERA is considered necessary. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Review of information requirements for UV filters under REACH - Extraction of relevant information from REACH dossiers - Extraction of relevant information from literature review - Comparison of effect levels from non-standardized test organisms with derived PNECs under EU REACH - RESULTS : Review of information requirements for UV filters and principles of environmental risk assessments (ERAs) under REACH - Review of relevant information related to the environmental safety of UV filters within EU REACH - Review of scientific literature - Comparison of REACH derived PNECs with toxicity levels from non-standardized tests - Table 1 : Overview of investigated UV filters and relevant physical–chemical properties - Table 2 : Overview of principal environmentally related data requirements for substances such as UV filters used in sunscreens under REACH - Table 3 : Freshwater : Predicted no effect concentrations (PNECfreshwater) from the REACH registration dossier of UV filters and most sensitive data on various organisms from literature (acute and chronic) - Table 4 : Marine water: Predicted no effect concentrations (PNECmarine water) from the REACH registration dossier of UV filters and most sensitive data on various organisms from literature (acute and chronic) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12898 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12898 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40251 [article]

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Influence of sunscreen formulation on the transfer of mineral and organic ultraviolet filters from skin to seawater in simulated ocean bathing tests / Jennifer K. Saxe in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 84-92 Titre : Influence of sunscreen formulation on the transfer of mineral and organic ultraviolet filters from skin to seawater in simulated ocean bathing tests Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer K. Saxe, Auteur ; Larry Mullins, Auteur ; Randy Jones, Auteur ; Alan Lewis, Auteur ; Frank Sun, Auteur ; Kurt A. Reynertson, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 84-92 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie analytique Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Cosmétiques -- Effets de la pollution de l'eau cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Eau -- Pollution Eau de mer Environnement -- Etudes d'impact Formulation (Génie chimique) Milieu marin -- Pollution Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Significant research and regulatory attention have been focussed on the potential for some ultraviolet filters (UVFs) to rinse off from beachgoers' skin into seawater leading to exposure to sea life, especially coral reefs. The amount of UVFs potentially rinsed from skin during recreational beach activities has not been well studied, leading to uncertainty about the potential magnitude of aquatic UVF exposure due to changes in sunscreen use patterns. This study quantifies rinse-off of UVFs in sunscreen from skin into synthetic seawater and identifies differences in rinse-off quantity due to formulation type with a goal of informing future modelling efforts aimed at estimating UVF exposure to sea life associated with recreational activities at the beach. - Methods : UVF rinse-off from skin during recreation in seawater was simulated by applying eight different sunscreen products to porcine skin samples followed by three periods of shaking in synthetic seawater totalling 40 min. The rinsed mass of six UVFs – zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, and octocrylene – was determined analytically in synthetic seawater and in extractant rinsate from glassware for organic UVFs and compared among formulas. - Results : Among the 22 UVF-formulation combinations tested, 19 resulted in less than 10% of the applied UVF rinsed from skin. All formulation-UVF combinations where the formula types were water-in-oil (reverse phase) emulsions or anhydrous resulted in 5% or less of the applied UVF rinsed to synthetic seawater. Sunscreens formulated as oil-in-water emulsions yielded higher rinse-off percentages for all UVFs tested, with a maximum of 20% rinse-off of avobenzone in one lotion. - Conclusion : The potential for sunscreen UVF rinse-off is significantly influenced by formulation and is generally well below the prior assumed rinse-off levels used to estimate risk. Formulation consideration is therefore essential for accurate exposure models used in environmental risk assessment. Anhydrous and reverse phase (water-in-oil) sunscreen formulations tested resulted in lower UVF transfer from skin to synthetic seawater in simulated ocean bathing tests and as a result, are expected to yield lower UVF exposures to sea life. This approach can be used in predictive environmental exposure models to support ecologically safe sunscreen formulation design. Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Formulation types and measured ultraviolet filter (UVF) content for sunscreen formulations in this study DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12901 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12901 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40253 [article]

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Meeting demand for bio-based ingredients / Julian Barnes in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 25, N° 3 (03/2024)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 25, N° 3 (03/2024) . - p. 38-42 Titre : Meeting demand for bio-based ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julian Barnes, Auteur ; Jessica Ringrose, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 38-42 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomatériaux Consommateurs -- Préférences cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Études de marché Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Shell discusses the findings of a global survey on changing consumer demands and preferences for personal care products in terms of their performance and sustainability credentials. Consumer preferences are changing in line with calls for more sustainable product offerings. But how much are they changing and, perhaps more importantly, how much are consumers willing to spend for this change ? In 2023, Foresight Factory, working with Shell Insights, carried out a proprietary survey with more than 1,800 participants globally to gain data into changing consumer demands and preferences for personal care products in terms of their (A) performance and (B) sustainability/bio credentials. The research also indicated the market gap for ingredients produced at large scale which have high functional performance and strong sustainability credentials. This gap is now being addressed with bio-based ingredients that are manufactured on a mass balance basis. These bio-based mass balance ingredients include alcohols as emollients and surfactants based on long chain alcohols and olefins that can be used in a variety of personal care products. Chemical producers, including Shell Chemicals, offer such ingredients that are compositionally identical to grades based on fossil feedstocks that have been widely used as functional ingredients in personal care products for decades. The new grades, therefore, can be used interchangeably and without any product reformulation costs or R&D effort. Note de contenu : - What consumers want from personal care products - Types of ingredients and their functions - Why bo-based mass balance ingredients ? - Table 1 : Consumer preferences ('must have' and 'nice to have') for different attributes - Table 2 : How bio-based mass balance surfactants offer performance, scale and cost advantages as well as being sustainable - Table 3 : Examples of bio-based mass balance alcohol ethoxylate grades (and sulfates), their uses and INCI names - Table 4 : Prototype liquid soap used for the first two triplets of results shown En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uDKfMdtDvYVfS8kJYg3WXyKnfifBym-L/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40892 [article]

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Repurposing consumer sunscreen habits and practices survey data to guide the development of UV filter environmental exposure models and risk assessments / Andrea M. Carrao in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 93-100 Titre : Repurposing consumer sunscreen habits and practices survey data to guide the development of UV filter environmental exposure models and risk assessments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andrea M. Carrao, Auteur ; Celine N. Schmitt, Auteur ; Scott D. Dyer, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 93-100 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Evaluation du risque Modèles numériques Produits antisolaires Statistiques Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A key factor that is deficient in most environmental emissions assessments for UV filters is a keen understanding of consumer habits and practices that can inform realistic exposure assessments. This study utilized a large volunteer survey (>11 000 persons) that captured many factors that affect consumer-based loadings to aquatic environments. The purpose of this study was to utilize this large survey to identify factors that affect the amount of sunscreen products used by consumers. - Methods : Correlations among more than 20 variables were used to provide an understanding of the overall dataset and identify factors that may be related to the amount of sunscreen product applied to the body (i.e., application thickness). Forward multiple linear regressions were used to identify the relative importance of each of these factors alone and in combination with others in predicting the amount of applied sunscreen. - Results : The proportion of body surface area (BSA) covered by sunscreen was the primary factor related to application thickness, followed by body surface area of the survey participant, seasonal usage, Fitzpatrick skin type and the sun protection factor, respectively. Each of the five regression models examined was statistically highly significant. - Conclusions : Comparisons to recommendations from the National Academies of Science, Engineering and Medicine parameters illustrated sufficient differences so as to encourage the development of future consumer habits and practice surveys that include factors beyond the scope of this study (e.g., activities, time of day, year, location, etc.) that can lead to improved exposure and risk assessments. Note de contenu : - Online survey of sunscreen usage - Database construction and quality control - Statistics - Correlation analysis and summary statistics - Stepwise regression analysis - Table 1 : Twenty-one variables and their respective definitions were investigated for their potential role in addressing application thickness (non-transformed and log10 transformed) - Table 2 : Summary statistics and percentile distributions of survey participants' BSA, the percent of the body covered by sunscreen (BSA Coverage), time spent at or in bodies of water expressed as days per year and hours per day, respectively - Table 3 : Forward stepwise regressions relating the relative importance of independent variables in predicting application thickness DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12899 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40254 [article]

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Status quo on identified transformation products of organic ultraviolet filters and their persistence / Franziska Jentzsch in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 101-126 Titre : Status quo on identified transformation products of organic ultraviolet filters and their persistence Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franziska Jentzsch, Auteur ; Klaus Kümmerer, Auteur ; Oliver Olsson, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 101-126 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement cosmétiques -- Produits chimiques Micropolluants Photostabilité Polluants -- Détérioration Produits antisolaires Produits chimiques -- Biodégradation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Organic micropollutants of concern-including organic UV filters (UVF)-are getting increasing attention. Personal care products such as sunscreens or cosmetic articles often contain large quantities of UVF. These substances enter the environment either directly (during outdoor activities) or indirectly (via sewages from households). Therefore, the removal or degradation of UVF by natural or technical treatment processes is important to understand. UVF are often incompletely removed and transformed to side products of incomplete mineralization by abiotic and biotic processes. An extensive overview on transformation products (TPs) is essential to systematically identify knowledge gaps and to derive research needs. While there are many reviews on the UVF themselves, the number of reviews which focus on their TPs is limited. Consequently, this review gives an overview on the latest findings regarding TPs of UVF. In this publication, known TPs of UVF, which were formed during abiotic and biotic processes, are reviewed. Target substances were defined and a literature database was reviewed for studies on TPs of the target substances. The first list of studies was shortened stepwise, thus generating a final list of studies which contained only the relevant studies. Since biodegradation is one of the most important pathways for removal of organic compounds from the environment, this review presents an overview on known TPs of organic UVF and their biodegradability, which determines their environmental fate. In this way, all identified TPs of UVF were listed and checked for information on their biodegradability. A total of 2731 records of studies were assessed. Forty-two studies, which assessed 46 processes that lead to the formation of identified TPs, were included in this review. One hundred and seventyseven different TPs resulting from 11 different UVF were identified. Little to no data on the biodegradability was found for TPs. This indicates a severe lack of data on the biodegradability of TPs of organic UVF substances. Since most TPs lack information on biodegradability, further research should provide information on both-identity and biodegradability-of formed TPs to be able to assess their hazardousness for the environment. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Target substance selection - Generation of the final data set - Documentation and handling of the final data set - Refactoring of the final data set - Addition of quality markers to the final data set - Biodegradability of the TPs listed in the final literature data set - DEVELOPMENT OF AVAILABLE INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC STUDIES ON UV FILTERS AND THEIR TRANSFORMATION PRODUCTS - OUTCOME AND INSIGHTS OF THE LITERATURE SEARCH - INCOMPLETE DEGRADATION OF UV FILTERS BY ABIOTIC AND BIOTIC PROCESSES - TRANSFORMATION PRODUCTS OF UV FILTER AND UV FILTER MIXTURES - STABILITY OF TRANSFORMATION PRODUCTS OF UV FILTER : Biodegradability - Photostability - In silico assessment of stability - Interim conclusion on the stability of UVF-TPs according to the reviewed literature - Biodegradability of UVF-TPs according to the ECHA (database) reports - CHALLENGES REVIEWING TRANSFORMATION PRODUCTS OF UV FILTERS AND THEIR BIODEGRADABILITY - CONSEQUENCES FOR THE ENVIRONMENTAL PERSPECTIVE AND RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FURTHER RESEARCH - Table 1 : Overview of 46 abiotic and biotic processes of 11 UVF reported in 42 studies (n = number of studied processes) - Table 2 : List of all reviewed TPs (TPtotal: 187) of 11 UV filter substances and one mixture, assigned with name, CAS number and relevant transformation process - Table 3 : Overview on the stability of certain TPs (extracted from literature, limited by data availability) - Table 4 : Shortened list of the TPs (based on list of TPtotal) for which the literature and/or ECHA database (April 2022) provided information on the stability DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12908 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12908 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40255 [article]

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Trends in biopolymer science applied to cosmetics / Néstor Mendoza-Munoz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 6 (12/2023)  

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UV filter occurrence in beach water of the Mediterranean coast – A field survey over 2 years in Palavas-les-Flots, France / Delphine Thallinger in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)  

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Le "zéro" pointé (du doigt) in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 12 (11-12/2011)  

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