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How much sun protection do we need ? / Brian L. Diffey in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 2-8 Titre : How much sun protection do we need ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Brian L. Diffey, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 2-8 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cancer de la peau Coup de soleil Evaluation du risque Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Produits antisolaires Vitamine D Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation exhibits a number of effects on skin, both beneficial and undesirable. The purpose of sun protection should be to minimise the likelihood of adverse effects without undue detriment to the beneficial effects. A strategy is proposed for a rational approach to suncare for people living in countries not known for their sunny climate, which is : - No need for UV protection in autumn and winter (October through to March in the northern hemisphere) - Daily skincare (incorporating UV filters SPF 8-15) in spring and summer (April through to September) - Suncare (SPF>30) on sunny holidays and long periods outdoors on summer weekends Adoption of this strategy should lead to the following outcomes: - prevention of sunburn - give about the same lifetime UV exposure as a 35 year old using no sun protection - reduce the risk of non-melanoma skin cancer by at least 5-fold relative to a non-user of sunscreen - delay the signs of photoageing - ensure a moderate exposure to sunshine, especially in late summer and early autumn, to maintain vitamin D status during the winter months. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation exhibits a number of effects on skin, both beneficial and undesirable. The purpose of sun protection should be to minimise the likelihood of adverse effects without undue detriment to the beneficial effects. The biological effects of UV on skin are summarised below. Note de contenu : - PRODUCTION OF VITAMIN D - TANNING - SUNBURN - SKIN CANCER : Squamous cell cancer - Basal cell cancer - Malignant Melanoma - PHOTOAGEING - TOPICAL SUNSCREENS - HOW LARGE SHOULD THE SUN PROTECTION FACTOR BE TO PREVENT SUNBURN? - HOW LARGE SHOULD THE SUN PROTECTION FACTOR BE TO GIVE A WORTHWHILE REDUCTION IN LIFETIME RISK OF SKIN CANCER ? - IS DAILY USE OF SUNSCREENS OF BENEFIT IN NORTHERN EUROPE ? - A STRATEGY FOR SUNCARE Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28166 [article]

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The sun protection factor : test methods and legal aspects / Mike W. Brown in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 10-18 Titre : The sun protection factor : test methods and legal aspects Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mike W. Brown, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 10-18 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Etiquetage Cosmétiques -- Législation Essais (technologie) Facteur de protection solaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - The SPF number is more than 25 years old and International methods used to measure it are now very similar. - There are still some differences in test methods that may lead to SPF variability if not properly taken into account. - In Europe the COLIPA SPF Test method should always be the method of choice as it remains the most strictly defined method. - There are several pieces of national and European legislation which sunscreen manufacturers must comply with, some of which are very vague in their requirements. - With adequate care and reasonable scientific and technical knowledge, we should all be able to label SPF numbers with confidence. Note de contenu : - A BRIEF HISTORY OF SPF TESTING - THE SPF TEST METHOD (COLIPA) - KEY SOURCES OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN INTERNATIONAL SPF TEST METHODS : MED Assessment - Product application procedure - UV light source - SPF labelling method - Impact of these sources of variability on the SPF value - LEGAL ASPECTS OF SPF LABELLING : Article 6 part (3) - Article 7a. part (1g) Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28167 [article]

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Optimization of sunscreen efficacy / R. Schwarzenbach in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 20-23 Titre : Optimization of sunscreen efficacy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. Schwarzenbach, Auteur ; U. Huber, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 20-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Facteur de protection solaire Produits antisolaires Synergie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The SPF (Sunburn Protection Factor) is a quantitative efficacy parameter of a cosmetic sunscreen describing UVB-protection. It is measured in vivo on human volunteers using the erythema as endpoint and one of the established measuring protocols. The SPF is not only the result of the absorption properties of the UV-filter combination chosen and their concentration in he sunscreen product, but is influenced to a large extend by the film-building properties of the vehicle and the uniform distribution of the UV-filter(s) in the formulation. Note de contenu : - DEFINITIONS : addition - Synergy - SPF-Boosting - SPF - SYNERGY - RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN SPF AND UV-FILTER CONCENTRATION - SPF - BOOSTING - FILM-BUILDING PROPERTIES - FIGURES : 1. Addition and synergy between lipophilic and hydrophilic UV-filters - 2.Stacking of EHMC (Ethyl Helyx Methocy Cinnamate) - 3. Distribution of UV-filter molecules on skin - 4. SPF-boosting with polyvinyl pyrrolidone copolymers - 5. Model presentations of the influence of C-chain length on filter distribution - 7. Comparison of SPF's obtained with equal amounts of UV-filters in the same type of emulsion - 8. Comparison of SPF's of an O/W emulsion containing 7.5% EHMC and additional film-building components Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28168 [article]

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Sunglasses for the skin : Reduction of dermal UV filter uptake by encapsulation / Frank Pflücker in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 24-28 Titre : Sunglasses for the skin : Reduction of dermal UV filter uptake by encapsulation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frank Pflücker, Auteur ; Hervé Guinard, Auteur ; Noa Lapidot, Auteur ; Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Auteur ; François Marchio, Auteur ; Hansjürgen Driller, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 24-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Encapsulation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the present study it will be reported a highly innovative micro encapsulation technique which will keep UV filters on the outermost layer of the skin, and will also separate them from other components in the formulation. The glass entrapped UV-filters was applied in vivo, in a test vehicle, to normal human skin. Tape strips were then taken and electron microscopy showed that intact particles form a layer on the surface of the skin. Additionally, in vitro release studies showed the maintenance of sunscreen actives on the surface of a membrane, serving as skin barrier model, compared to non-encapsulated material. In conclusion, the encapsulated sunscreens obtained through the Sol-Gel glass making technology offer improved products: e.g. sensitive skin products which maintain or even boost the high SPF's required, while eliminating contact between the active ingredients and the body tissues. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Specification of UV-Pearls - STABILITY AFTER TOPICAL IN VIVO APPLICATION : Topical application procedure - IN VIVO RELEASE STUDY : Application of test formulation - EPIDERMAL UPTAKE OF UV FILTERS BY HUMAN EPIDERMIS : Application of test formulation - PHOTO-STABILITY OF THE COMBINATION OMC/BMDBM Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28182 [article]

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Vitamins and other "secondary actives" in Sun care products / Thomas Rudolph in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 29-32 Titre : Vitamins and other "secondary actives" in Sun care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Rudolph, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 29-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Tests d'efficacité Vitamines Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today modern sun protection systems contain a number of active ingredients. Undoubtedly UV filters play the most important role in building up the UV protection shield. As "primary actives" they neutralize harmful UV light by the conversion of UV into harmless heat. However UV filters cannot provide a 100% protection against all harmful UV/sun rays. There are still gaps where photons can pass unhindered through the layer of UV filters to trigger photoreactions on/in the skin. Once these photoreactions have occured there is a strong need to remove harmful photoproducts. This function is delivered by the group of "secondary actives". These are either direct classic antioxidants (vitamins C, E; polyphenols) or indirect antioxidants (chelating agents, amino acids, enzymes,...). All compounds have the common aim to reduce "oxidative stress" and fight "free radicals". By contrast to UV filters the group of "secondary actives" shows little to no UV absorptivity. While UV filters are chemically inert and return to their ground states after absorption, "secondary actives" that act as classic antioxidants can irreversibly be consumed. The number of EU permitted organic UV filters is limited to 25. In comparison the group of potential "secondary actives" appears vague but nevertheless consists of numerous heterogenous compounds. The aim of this paper is to classify these compounds and look at some of those "secondary activies" that are currently used in market products. Note de contenu : - Classic antioxidants - "Indirect" antioxidants - Efficacy testing - FIGURES : 1. The formation of ROS (schematic) - 2. Classic antioxidants ant their mode of function (schematic) - 3. Vitamin E - formula structures - 4. Vitamin C - formula structures - 5. Polyphenol - α-glucosyl rutin - 6. Hydroperoxid formation (I-unsaturated lipid ; II - allyl radical ; III - peroxyl radical ; IV-hydroperoxide) Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28183 [article]

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Measurement of UVA protection / V. Wendel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 34-38 Titre : Measurement of UVA protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : V. Wendel, Auteur ; E. Klette, Auteur ; K. P. Wittern, Auteur ; H. Gers-Barlag, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 34-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Etude in vitro Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Although the importance of the UVA protection of sunscreens in preventing sun-induced damage to the skin is becoming increasingly apparent, there are currently no officially recognized methods to measure the UVA protection performance of sunscreens. The new in vitro method described in this article allows a prediction of the result of an in vivo measurement that is valid for all types of sunscreen products. Forty-five commercially available sunscreens were studied using roughened polymethylmethacrylate plates (PMMA) as the substrate. The in vitro UVA protection was determined using the UVA spectrum of the sunscreen after this had been fitted mathematically to meet the measured in vivo SPF. To show the validity of this method the results were correlated with an endpoint in the UVA range determinated in vivo. This work demonstrates that a very good prediction of the in vivo results is obtained. No dependence on the emulsion base, filter composition or photostability of the products was observed. Fitting the UVA spectrum to the measured in vivo SPF eliminates the need for pre-irradiation of the products. It could be shown that this new in vitro method to measure UVA protection performance is applicable to and valid for all sunscreens available on the market. Note de contenu : - Spectrometer - Substrate - Sample application and measurement - PDD measurements - Calculations - Sunscreens Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28184 [article]

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Biophotonics - A new field in efficacy testing UV-protection of skin and hair monitored by ICL-S and ICL-M / S. Bernard in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 40-45 Titre : Biophotonics - A new field in efficacy testing UV-protection of skin and hair monitored by ICL-S and ICL-M Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Bernard, Auteur ; M. Rohr, Auteur ; Annika Schrader, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 40-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimiluminescence Mesure Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photodétérioration Photonique Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Aim of this paper is to establish ICL-S (induced chemiluminescence of human skin) and ICL-H (induced chemiluminescence of human hair) as new approaches in the field of biophotonics for the determination of UV-induced skin and hair damage. Mainly UV-irradiation is capable of disturbing the balance (steady state equilibrium) between pro- and anti-oxi-dative reactions in the skin, resulting in and increased formation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which can thereby damage living cells. Part of the energy of these reactions is released in form of photons. This UV-induced, but chemically generated pho-ton emission (chemiluminescence) is correlated to extent of damage. UV-irradiation plays also a major role in photo-degradation of hair, decreasing its tensile strength and resulting in photo-bleaching. In randomised, in vivo studies on healthy volunteers, the short-term photo-protective effects of chemical UVA-filters are demonstrated by a significant decrease in ICL-S up to 70%. Independent of the amount of UVB-protection (SPF 7, 14) a decrease of about 65% is measured in comparison to the untreated area if 2% of butyl methoxy-dibenzoylmethane is added to the test formulation. In addition to the in-vivo measurements on volunteers ICL-H is performed on commercially available hair tresses. A significant increase of more than 50% of the spontaneous photon-emission of UV-irradiated (8 hours of simulated sun light) is measured in comparison to virgin hair (no UV/no treatment). Photo-protection of the tresses is realised by application of commercially available "leave on "and" rinse of" products, in the course of which the leave on product shows, the best performance. The rinse off product with a quartenized UV-absorber shows at least some UV-protection and for the rinse off product with a claimed UV-protection no significant change is measured. Furthermore the amount of damage after subsequent perm and bleach treatments is correlated with the photon emission of the tresses. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Photon detection - Test design-Skin - Test design-Hair - RESULTS : UVA-protection of human skin - UV-protection on hair - Photon emission after perming and bleaching Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28185 [article]

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Market situation of sun products - A review of latest innovations / W. Johncock in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 46-48 Titre : Market situation of sun products - A review of latest innovations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : W. Johncock, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 46-48 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Études de marché Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Two of the main factors that can influence formulation are changes in legislation and changes in the market via new trends such as higher SPFs, water resistancy requirements, better photostability, new product forms e.g., sprays, sport products, balms, etc. Additionally public relations and the media can also play a role, for example what will be the effect, if any, on formulation of the endocrine disruption scare of last year that received massive publicity? To answer this we have to wait for this coming and the following summers. Note de contenu : - Legislation - Market Factors - A selection of latest market innovations - Formulation : Emulsifier and oil free sunspray, SPF 16, water resistant anb broad spectrum Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28186 [article]

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New concepts for sun care formulating in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 52-54 Titre : New concepts for sun care formulating Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 52-54 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Encapsulation Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - Oil-free formulation - Encapsulated organic suncreen - Simply create and process elegant and stable emulsions - Sprayable emulsion - New developments around conventional filters - Formulation : 1. W/Si sunscreen (in-vitro SPF 15) - 2. Sun care cream (cold process) Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28187 [article]

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UVA-Protection - New developments in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 55-57 Titre : UVA-Protection - New developments Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 55-57 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - New UVA-filters - Uvinul A Plus - Neo Heliopan AP - Tinosorb M - Formulation : 1. O/W-emulsion with Uvinul A Plus (SPF = 23 ± 4.5 (COLIPA method) - 2. Sunscreen spray (O/W) with Neo Heliopan AP, SPF 16, broad-spectrum protection - 3. Sprayable sun screen emulsion with SPF in-vitro 40 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28188 [article]

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Process for preparing liquid personal cleansing compositions which provide enhanced perfume deposition in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 58-60 Titre : Process for preparing liquid personal cleansing compositions which provide enhanced perfume deposition Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 58-60 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Hygiène Parfums Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The present invention relates to a process for preparing liquid personal cleansing compositions which provide enhanced perfume deposition on the skin and which provide increased on-skin fragrance delivery. The process of the present invention involves forming a premix which contains a cationic material and a volatile perfume, and then adding the premix to a personal cleansing base composition which contains an anionic surfactant. Note de contenu : - Perfumes and fragrances in liquid personal cleansing compositions - Process for preparing liquid personal cleansing compositions - Forming a premix : 1. The cationic material - 2. The volatile perfume - 3. Water Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28189 [article]

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