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Antioxidants - What is their significance in sun protection ? / Michael W. Brown in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003) . - p. 2-12 Titre : Antioxidants - What is their significance in sun protection ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michael W. Brown, Auteur ; L. G. Hamilton, Auteur ; S. P. Long, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 2-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : ADN -- Altération Antioxydants Etude in vitro Etude in vivo Facteur de protection solaire Lipides Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photo-oxydation Produits antisolaires Radicaux libres (chimie) Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It has long been known that ultraviolet (UV) light can interact directly with biological chromaphores such as deoxyribonucleaic acid (DNA) and in so doing, can damage those molecules. More recently the role of UV-light in the generation of free radicals in the skin has suggested a secondary indirect route for biological damage. Here, we describe a series of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo experiments designed to investigate whether certain antioxidant materials are able to prevent free radical initiated damage to biological molecules during exposure to UV-light. A number of antioxidant materials are shown to be effective at preventing DNA damage (measured by alkaline comet assay) in a tissue culture model and at preventing lipid peroxidation in both an in vitro model and ex vivo human stratum corneum tape stripping model. The performance of these materials when used in combination can show a synergistic or optimised effect. However when antioxidant materials proven to be effective at preventing DNA damage and lipid peroxidation are incorporated into a sunscreen product, no effect is measurable on the sun protection factor (SPF) on the product. Note de contenu : - In vitro investigations - Ex vivo investigations - In vivo investigations Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28139 [article]

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Water resistance determination of sunscreen products : the actual status / Stephan Bielfeldt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003) . - p. 14-16 Titre : Water resistance determination of sunscreen products : the actual status Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 14-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Facteur de protection solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Water resistance of sunscreen products is an important parameter for the consumer. Since more and more cosmetic products and over-the-counter drugs are developed to be marketed all over the world the labeling of water resistance should mean the same in each country. This can only be achieved if one standard for water resistance measurements is accepted all over the world, defining water flow, water temperature, exposure time and labelling of water resistance. At present there seems to be agreement in the world that a global harmonization of sunscreen testing including the water resistance is needed. To achieve this goal still a lot of work in standardization has to be done. Only a scientifically and economically optimized test method will have chance of acceptance all over the world. Note de contenu : - Present status of water resistance testing - Critical evaluation of water immersion methods considering the needs of international harmonization Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28140 [article]

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The sunscreen simulator : A formulator's tool to predict SPF and UVA parameters / Bernd Herzog in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003) . - p. 25-36 Titre : The sunscreen simulator : A formulator's tool to predict SPF and UVA parameters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bernd Herzog, Auteur ; Christine Mendrok, Auteur ; Sébastien Mongiat, Auteur ; Stefan Müller, Auteur ; Uli Osterwalder, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 25-36 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Facteur de protection solaire Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet A Simulation, Méthode de Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The Sunscreen Simulator is a piece of software enabling the calculation of SPF (sun protection factor), UVA/UVB-ratio, critical wavelength and the forecast whether the criterion of the Australian standard is given. It is based on a step film model, by which inhomogeneities of the absorbing layer are introduced. The two parameters describing the structure of the step film were adjusted by comparing the in vivo SPF data of three sunscreen standards with the results of corresponding calculations. Using the calibrated model, for a large number of suncreen formulations a satisfactory correlation of calculated and in vivo SPF data has been observed. The correlation of calculated and in vivo on rough quartz plates in excellent, and the forecast whether the Australian standard criterion is given or not appears to be reliable as well. The model reproduces synergistic effects on SPF induced by the presence of mixtures of UVA- and UVB-absorbing filters. It can also be used to design sunscreen formulations with a specific UVA performance. Note de contenu : - The step film model - Calibration of the model parameters - Materials and methods - Correlation of calculated SPF and SPF in vivo - Correlation of calculated UVA parameters and UVA parameters measured in vitro - Application examples - The sunscreen similator on the internet Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28141 [article]

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Mycosporine-like amino acids : natural UV-screening compounds from red algae to protect the skin against photoaging / Daniel Schmid in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003) . - p. 38-42 Titre : Mycosporine-like amino acids : natural UV-screening compounds from red algae to protect the skin against photoaging Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Cornelia Schürch, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur ; Hans-Peter Nissen, Auteur ; Hanspeter Prieur, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 38-42 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides aminés Les acides aminés (ou aminoacides) sont une classe de composés chimiques possédant deux groupes fonctionnels : à la fois un groupe carboxyle –COOH et un groupe amine –NH2. Parmi ceux-ci, les acides α-aminés se définissent par le fait que leur groupe amine est lié à l'atome de carbone adjacent au groupe acide carboxylique (le carbone α), ce qui leur confère la structure générique H2N–CHR–COOH, où R représente la chaîne latérale, qui identifie l'acide α-aminé. Les acides α-aminés jouent un rôle fondamental en biochimie comme constituants élémentaires des protéines : ils polymérisent en formant des liaisons peptidiques qui aboutissent à de longues chaînes macromoléculaires appelées peptides. Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Mycosporine Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : UV-screening compounds to reduce damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation are almost ubiquitous in nature. The most active natural UV-absorbing substances are the mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA's) that are produced by certain algae, corals and cyanobacteria. The peak absorption of MAA's is in the UVA range and their a absorption coefficients are similar to those of synthetic sunscreens. A human study showed that a cream containing MAA's from the red alga Porphyra umbilicalis efficiently protects the skin against UVA exposure on a typical working day. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Extraction of MAA's - HPLC-Analysis of MAA's - Cell culture experiments - Human study - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Cell culture experiments - Human study - FIGURES : 1. Chemical structure of the mycosporine-like amino acid porphyra-334 - 2. Protection of fibroblast cells by mycosporine-like amino acids against UVA - 3. Inhibition of lipid peroxidation compared to the beginning of the study and the untreated area - 4. Improvement of skin firmness compared to the beginning of the study and the untreated area - 5. Improvement of skin smoothness compared to the beginning of the study and the untreated area - 6. Reduction of wrinkle depth compared to the beginning of the study and the untreated area Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28142 [article]

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New trends in the fight against skin ageing / Corinne Stoltz in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003) . - p. 44-50 Titre : New trends in the fight against skin ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Corinne Stoltz, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 44-50 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vieillissement cutané Vieillissement cutané -- Prévention Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin ageing is frightening. The desire to stay young at all costs, particularly where the skin is concerned, is a dream that many would like to come true. Although this is a difficult challenge for researchers, determination and continuous work is bringing them closer every day. In their quest for "youth" SEPPIC's researchers propose some solutions for new fights against skin ageing process. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Causes and damages of skin ageing process ? - FIGHT AGAINST POLLUTION DAMAGES : "Antipollution" effectiveness of Manoliva - FIGHT AGAINST PHOTO-AGEING : Effectiveness of Phyto-age against photo-ageing - FIGHT AGAINST "HORMONAL AGEING" : Atrophy of the dermis - Dry skin - Pallor, the decrease in skin coloration - Effectiveness of the "hormonal like" effect of Phyto-age - Triple action of Sepilift DPHP for an optimum moisturisation and anti-wrinkle effectiveness - FIGHT AGAINST DULL AND TIRED SKINS : Chrono-energising effect of Sepitonic M3 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28144 [article]

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Agents against hyperreactive and hypoactive, deficiency states of the skin and manifest dermatitits in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003) . - p. 51-54 Titre : Agents against hyperreactive and hypoactive, deficiency states of the skin and manifest dermatitits Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 51-54 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dermatoses Dermo-cosmétologie Dermo-pharmacie Eczéma constitutionnel Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : An invention concerning EP0797427 particularly relates to active compounds and formulations, in particular for topical use, which are used for prophylaxis and treatment of hyperreactive skin predisposed to dermatitis, and of deficient hypoactive skin and for prophylaxis and treatment of the manifest dermatoses mentioned under I. to XIII., such as, for example, atopic dermatitis, neurodermatitis, atopic eczema and seborrhoeic dermatitis, photoinduced dermatoses (for example Mallorca acne and in particular polymorphic photodermatitis), rosacea, prurigo forms, pruritus, sporiasis form, ichthyosis, decubitus, ulcus cruris and microbial and viral infections, such as, for example, herpes simplex, h.zoster or h.labialis. Note de contenu : - Example 1 : Aqueous formulationh (facial lotion) - Example 2 : Aqueous composition - Example 3 : Hydrogel (polyacrylate gel) - Example 4 : Formulation of high water content (very soft) - Example 5 : Formulation of high water content (soft) - Example 7 : Formulation of high water content (moderately firm) - Example 9 : Thinly liquid lotion - Example 10 : W/O Cream - Example 11 : W/O Emulsion - Example 13 : W/O Emulsion Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28145 [article]

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Buffering properties of trimethylglycine (betaine) in cosmetics / L. Rigano in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003) . - p. 55-58 Titre : Buffering properties of trimethylglycine (betaine) in cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : L. Rigano, Auteur ; V. D'Amato, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 55-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bétaïnes Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : trimethylglycine, also called betaine, (C5H11NO2) is very vommon amphoteric molecule, which can be found in nature in the shell of crustaceans and in many plants. It is industrially produced by extraction from molasses in the suger industry. Trimethylglycine is a stable zwitterion (dipolar ion) with, tending to form hydrogen bonds. It strongly interacts with water and many polar molecules, imparting usual properties to solutions. Moreover, it is quite asymmetrical, as it is made of an hydrophilic part (the positive and negative ions) and of a lipophilic one (the three methyl and the methylene group). Its chemical structure, made up of the inner salt of a weak acid and a strong alkali, provides neutralising and buffering properties toward strong acids as well as making soluble some acid compounds which are hard to dissolve. In aqueous solutions, betaine forms very strong hydrogen bonds (8-9 kcal/mole) and changes the water activity. The carboxylic group attracts the hydrogen atoms of the surrounding water molecules, while the quaternised nitrogen attracts oxygen in the water structure. Therefore, betaine is surrounded by high number of co-ordinated water molecules. However, they are quickly exchanged with the surrounding bulk water molecules. Therefore, betaine is a carrier of water. This mechanism allows the water to be totally available for the survival of living cells in extreme conditions, from which the name of "stress molecules". When used in cosmetics, trimethylglycine was found to have interesting characteristics : a good dissolving power, the capacity of stabilising foam and enhancing the skinfeel. In efficacy tests, it improved the cutaneous elasticity and provided moisture to the skin. Morever, it reduces skin irritation induced by surfactants. Note de contenu : - Other compounds - Further developements on aluminium chlorohydrate solutions Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28146 [article]

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