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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierFuture developments in cosmetic formulations / Tharwat F. Tadros in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/1992)
Titre : Future developments in cosmetic formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tharwat F. Tadros, Auteur Année de publication : 1992 Article en page(s) : p. 93-111 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Emulsions multiples
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Liposomes
Nanoparticules
SurfactantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In recent years, there have been a great deal of interest in applications of microemulsions, liposomes (vesicles) and multiple emulsions in cosmetic formulations. These systems will provide the cosmetic industry with new types of formulations which are easier to apply, better functional benefit and potentially safer formulations. Microemulsions are thermodynamically stable systems and hence shelf life is no problem. Many cosmetic ingredients can be adequately solubilized in the swollen micelles of the microemulsions. Such solubilized systems may enhance transport and diffusion through various barriers, eg., the skin, thus enhancing the efficacy of the formulations. However, microemulsions may cause skin irritation by disrupting the liquid crystalline structure of the stratum corneum. This problem may be overcome by formulating microemulsions, which on evaporation produce lamellar liquid crystalline structures. The problem of skin irritation is certainly reduced or eliminated using liposomes or vesicles, which offer an alternative to microemulsions. The principles for formation and stabilization of vesicles are discussed in this paper and research work is needed to produce nanocapsules from liposomes, using polymerizable surfactants. Multiple emulsions of the water/oil/water (w/o/w) or oil/water/oil (o/w/o) types are also valuable systems for formulating cosmetics. In the first place, they offer a means of sustained release of the various ingredients. Secondly, they allow one to separate the various ingredients in the formulation, thus preventing their possible interaction. The basic principles required for preparation of stable multiple emulsions are summarised. Developments of polymeric surfactants led to the formulation of stable multiple emulsions. An example of a recently formulated stable w/o/w multiple emulsion is given in this paper The stability of the system was investigated using optical microscopy. Creaming occurred on storage, particularly at high temperature (40°C) and this was significantly reduced by addition of Kelzan (a polysaccharide with high molecular weight). The final formulation was studied rheological techniques. DOI : 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00045.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00045.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26588
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/1992) . - p. 93-111[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Dosage de l'octyl triazone dans les produits cosmétiques solaires Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Herpol-Borremans, Auteur ; M.-O. Masse, Auteur Année de publication : 1992 Article en page(s) : p. 113-119 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Produits antisolaires' TLC HPLC Cosmétiques 'Octyl triazone' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The method describes the quantitative determination of octyl triazone [2, 4, 6-trianilino-p-(carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1, 3, 5-triazine] in cosmetic sunscreen products.
The sample is suspended in tetrahydrofuran and after appropriate treatment the determination is made by HPLC.DOI : 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00046.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00046.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26589
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/1992) . - p. 113-119[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Preparation of an oakmoss absolute with reduced allergenic potential Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chris Ehret, Auteur ; P. Maupetit, Auteur ; M. Petrzilka, Auteur ; G. Klecak, Auteur Année de publication : 1992 Article en page(s) : p. 121-130 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Evernia prunastri' 'Oakmoss absolue' 'Acides aminés' Désensibilisation Extraits Allergènes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Oakmoss absolute, an extract of the lichen Evernia prunastri, is known to cause allergenic skin reactions due to the presence of certain aromatic aldehydes such as atranorin, chloratranorin, ethyl hematommate and ethyl chlorohematommate.
In this paper it is shown that treatment of Oakmoss absolute with amino acids such as lysine and/or leucine, lowers considerably the content of these allergenic constituents including atranol and chloratranol. The resulting Oakmoss absolute, which exhibits an excellent olfactive quality, was tested extensively in comparative studies on guinea pigs and on man. The results of the Guinea Pig Maximization Test (GPMT) and Human Repeated Insult Patch Test (HRIPT) indicate that, in comparison with the commercial test sample, the allergenicity of this new quality of Oakmoss absolute was considerably reduced, and consequently better skin tolerance of this fragrance for man was achieved.DOI : 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00047.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00047.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26590
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/1992) . - p. 121-130[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Physico-chemical modifications of liposome structures through interaction with surfactantsy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : I. Ribosa, Auteur ; M. T. Garcia, Auteur ; J. L. Parra, Auteur ; Alfonso De la Maza, Auteur ; J. Sanchez Leal, Auteur ; C. Trullas, Auteur ; A. Tsi, Auteur ; F. Balaguer, Auteur ; C. Pelejero, Auteur Année de publication : 1992 Article en page(s) : p. 131–149 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Liposomes Surfactants Saturation Solubilisation Synopsis Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The liposome-surfactant interaction has been studied in this paper through the disrupting effect caused by surfactant molecules on large unilamellar vesicles prepared by reverse-phase evaporation. This process leads, in the end, to the rupture of such structures and to the solubilization of the phospholipidic components, via mixed surfactant-phospholipid micelle formation. This phenomenon is described by a three-stage model and characterized by two parameters: the highest surfactant/phospholipid ratio that can exist in a vesicle (Re sat) and the lowest surfactant/phospholipid ratio required to keep the lipid and surfactant in the form of mixed micelles (Re sat). These parameters have been determined by spectrophotometry and 31P NMR spectroscopy, obtaining results in a good agreement with both techniques. The surfactants tested have been: sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), sodium laurylether sulfate (SLES), N-hexadecyl-trimethylammonium bromide (HTAB), octylphenol series (8–20 EO) and alkylbetaines(C-10, C-12 and C-14). Different Re sat and Re sol values have been obtained for each of the surfactants. This has permitted a study of the solubilizing capacity versus the phospholipidic bilayer of the different surfactants as a function of their structure. DOI : 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00048.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00048.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26591
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/1992) . - p. 131–149[article]Exemplaires
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