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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierIn vitro and in vivo determinations of sun protection factors of sunscreen lotions with octylmethoxycinnamate / E. P. Santos in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999)
Titre : In vitro and in vivo determinations of sun protection factors of sunscreen lotions with octylmethoxycinnamate Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : E. P. Santos, Auteur ; Z. M. Freitas, Auteur ; K. R. Souza, Auteur ; S. Garcia, Auteur ; A. Vergnanini, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 1-5 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Etude in vitro
Etude in vivo
Facteur de protection solaire
Octyl méthoxycinnamate
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
Rayonnement solaireIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The aim of this work was to evaluate the correlation between in vitro and in vivo determinations of sun protection factors (SPF) of sunscreen lotions containing the synthetic sunscreen octyl methoxycinnamate. Three sunscreen lotions containing either 2, 4.5 or 7.5% octyl methoxycinnamate were prepared. The in vitro SPFs of these sunscreen lotions were determined according to the spectrophotometric method of Mansur et al. The in vivo SPF values were determined according to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) method. The results indicate that there was a good correlation between the in vitro and in vivo determinations for the sunscreen lotions examined. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181658.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181658.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26498
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999) . - p. 1-5[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Assessment of efficiency of repellent formulations with N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide in laboratory conditions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : R. Milutinović, Auteur ; G. Vuleta, Auteur ; J. Milić, Auteur ; N. Stajković, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 7-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Insectes
N,N-diéthyl-3-méthylbenzamide
Pharmacocinétique
Polyvinylpyrrolidone
Répulsifs (chimie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The affinity of N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide) (DEET) for various polymers that are potential inert carriers (PEG, PVP, NaCMC, PAA) was studied. Mixtures of DEET and the polymers were prepared and analysed for DEET vapour release using head space analysis. Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) showed the highest affinity for DEET. Several insect repellent formulations in the form of a hydrogel, an o/w cream and a stick were prepared with 5% w/w DEET and either 1% w/w or no PVP. The release of DEET from the formulations was investigated by Head Space gas–mass spectrometry at 32°C. The degree of absorption of DEET through the skin was evaluated by applying these topical preparations to shaved rabbit skin and measuring DEET content in the blood samples by gas–mass spectrometry at various time intervals after application. Based on these results the pharmacokinetic parameters were determined. The minimum penetration of DEET through rabbit skin was obtained with a hydrogel containing PVP as a carrier. The biological efficiency of repellent formulations containing 5% DEET (w/w) was evaluated for repellency using the mosquito Aedes aegypti. The results demonstrated that the hydrogel formulation based on polyacrylic acid containing 5% DEET (w/w) supplemented with 1% PVP (w/w), could serve as a suitable vehicle for repellent preparations containing DEET. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181696.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181696.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26499
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999) . - p. 7-14[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : L’effluvium télogène actinique : une facette de la chronobiologie humaine Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. Piériard-Franchimont, Auteur ; G. E. Piérard, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 15-21 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Français (fre) Tags : Cheveux 'Effluvium télogène' Soleil Trichogramme Saison Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A seasonal increased hair loss is frequently recognized in clinical practice. However, such an aspect of chronobiology has rarely been documented. To evaluate the seasonal influence on the hair cycle, trichograms of 2857 subjects who complained of an increased hair loss were collected during two consecutive years. An increased frequency of telogen effluvium was observed between July and October. The seasonal effluvium appears to be more summer effect than autumnal in regions whose latitude is over the Tropic of Cancer. The influence of ultraviolet light is possible. It might correspond to an actinic effluvium manifesting itself in some individuals among the whole population. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181620.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181620.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26500
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999) . - p. 15-21[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Moisturizing effect of vesicles formed from monoglycerides on human skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Toshiro Sone, Auteur ; Tomoko Hanamizu, Auteur ; Minoru Ichioka, Auteur ; Teruo Yokokura, Auteur ; Satoshi Yoshikawa, Auteur ; Naomi Kondo-Yanai, Auteur ; Kunio Esumi, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 23–31 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Monoglycéride 'Structure lamellaire' Vésicule Polyvinylpyrrolidone 'Teneur en eau du stratum corneum' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The moisturizing effect of vesicles formed from monoglycerides on human skin was studied by measurement of conductance on and transepidermal waterloss from the skin surface. Although sonication of the monoglycerides in water with Ca2+ gave multilamellar vesicles, the lamellar structure of the vesicles disappeared during their storage without any other additive. With the addition of poly(vinylpyrrolidone) after the sonication, the stability of the vesicles increased and their lamellar structure was maintained for 3 months at 40°C. These vesicles led to a significantly higher water content of the stratum corneum of human skin compared with non-lamellar monoglyceride, and consequently they improved rough human skin. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.184030.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.184030.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26501
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999) . - p. 23–31[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : The effects of topical L(+) lactic acid and ascorbic acid on skin whitening Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Walter P. Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 33–40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Résumé : Subjects with medium to dark skin and many exhibiting facial age spots or discolorations participated in this twelve week study to evaluate the skin whitening ability of lactic and ascorbic acid. Using clinical and biophysical test methods we observed prolonged treatment with 8.8% L(+) lactic acid resulted in no significant effects on skin pigmentation. However treatment with L(+) lactic acid supplemented with ascorbic acid (1%) did produce a whitening effect which becomes apparent after three months. These effects were demonstrated clinically by the test panelists, and trained clinicians, and with objective instrumental methods. We observed a general skin lightening and did see a modest preferential lightening of age spots with the combination of acids. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196561.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196561.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26502
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999) . - p. 33–40[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Determination of panthenol, cholecalciferol and tocopherol in cosmetic products by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry in SIM mode Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : H.-J. Jeong, Auteur ; M. H. Lee, Auteur ; C.-W. Hur, Auteur ; J.-W. Kim, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 41–50 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Panthénol Cholécalciférol Tocophérol 'Chromatographie en phase gazeuse' 'Spectrométrie de masse' 'Mode SIM' Silylation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A novel simple method to detect vitamins in cosmetic products by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) has been developed. Three vitamins (panthenol, cholecalciferol and tocopherol) were used for this study. Vitamins were prepared by dissolving in tetrahydrofuran (ThF), and silylated with bis-trimethylsilyltri-fluoroacetamide- trichloromethylsilane (BSTFA). Silylated vitamins were separated on a fused-silica capillary column coated with DB-5. The identification of each vitamin was accomplished by retention time and mass spectrum library search with a computer, and the quantitation was made in the selected-ion monitoring (SIM) mode of GC-MS. SIM mode had given sensitivity to determine 50 pg of panthenol, 285 pg of cholecalciferol and 130 pg of tocopherol. Linearity was maintained over the range 0.005–0.20% for each vitamin. Each cosmetic product (i.e. hair tonic and lotion) was found to contain amounts of the vitamins. This method was sensitive and gave 77.5–99.9% recovery of each vitamin from these cosmetic products. From these results, we concluded that silylation with BSTFA followed by GC-MS analysis allows the simple, convenient and exact determination of panthenol, cholecalciferol and tocopherol. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181685.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181685.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26503
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999) . - p. 41–50[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Potential cosmetic applications of reconstructed epidermis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Regnier, Auteur ; C. Duval, Auteur ; R. Schmidt, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 51–58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Epiderme reconstruit' Kératinocytes Mélanocytes 'Cellules de Langerhans Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Various models of reconstructed epidermis already provide useful tools for safety and efficacy assessment of cosmetic products. However, the majority of these in vitro models are composed of keratinocytes only. Recently, the introduction of melanocytes into epidermal reconstructs has considerably enlarged their field of application. Depending on the melanocyte donor, the different phototypes (I–VI) as well as the racial specific pigmentation, caucasian, Asiatic or black epidermis can be reproduced in vitro. The reconstructed pigmented epidermis allows the evaluation of modulators of melanogenesis such as the depigmenting agent kojic acid. In contrast to conventional melanocyte cultures, the pigmented reconstructed epidermis is air-exposed and covered, as in vivo, with a stratum corneum. This allowed us to evaluate the effect of UV-irradiations on the epidermis and its protection by topically applied sunscreens. The introduction of resident epidermal Langerhans cells into the reconstructed epidermis remained an important challenge. We succeeded by seeding blood derived CD34+ hematopoietic progenitors onto a reconstructing epidermis composed of keratinocytes and melanocytes. The resulting pigmented epidermis shows melanocytes in the basal layer and resident epidermal Langerhans cells suprabasally. As in normal skin, the melanocytes transfer melanin to the neighboring keratinocytes, and the Langerhans cells express major histocompatibility complex class II molecules, CD1a antigen and Birbeck granules. This reconstructed epidermis, comprising for the first time the three major epidermal cell types, has the potential to serve in the near future as a predictive model for immuno-pharmaco-toxicological in vitro studies. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.183571.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.183571.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26504
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999) . - p. 51–58[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Squamometry : a tool to move from exaggerated to more and more realistic application conditions for comparing the skin compatibility of surfactant-based products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marc Paye, Auteur ; Yasmine Cartiaux, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 59–68 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Couche cornée
Douceur (toucher)
Patchs cosmétiques
Peau -- Inflammation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
SquamométrieLa squamométrie consiste à collecter les couches les plus superficielles du stratum corneum au moyen d'un adhésif fermement appliqué sur la peau. Les cellules collectées sont colorées et l'intensité de la coloration est en relation directe avec le niveau d'altération de la surface de la peau causé par les produits à base de surfactant.
SurfactantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Squamometry consists of sampling the most superficial layers of the stratum corneum by means of a sticky tape firmly pressed onto the skin. Harvested cells are stained and the intensity of staining is related to the level of skin surface alterations caused by surfactant-based products. This method is extremely sensitive and the current study demonstrates that, thanks to squamometry, product mildness can now be compared without causing skin irritation due to exaggerated application conditions.
In a 15 minute patch test, squamometry assessments ranked a series of surfactants as expected from their known irritation potential, without causing clinical signs of irritation. Similarly, the counter-irritant effect of amphoteric and nonionic surfactants on the irritation potential of anionic surfactants was evidenced. In a 30 minute patch test, shampoos were ranked by squamometry as they were in a classical Soap Chamber Test (48 hours of application). Finally, four hand dishwashing liquids were tested for one week by consumers according to a procedure similar to normal usage of the products, and were classified by squamometry as they were in a previous Soap Chamber Test.
In conclusion, this study suggests that squamometry is able to predict the skin compatibility of surfactant-based products even after very short and realistic application times to volunteers’ skin. Providing further validation, this technique could allow a move to test conditions much closer to the normal usage procedure of the products, to design test protocols much more respectful of panelists’ skin condition, and to get information on product tolerance very quickly.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.201638.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.201638.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26505
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 1 (02/1999) . - p. 59–68[article]Exemplaires
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