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INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE / Société Française de Cosmétologie . Vol. 21, N° 3Mention de date : 06/1999Paru le : 01/06/1999 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierEvaluation of 'Nuez de Barinas' (Caryodendron Orinocense) oil for possible use in cosmetic / M. N. Pérez de r. in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999)
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Titre : Evaluation of 'Nuez de Barinas' (Caryodendron Orinocense) oil for possible use in cosmetic Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. N. Pérez de r., Auteur ; M. de J. Alfaro, Auteur ; F. C. Padilla, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 151–158 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Formulation Cosmétiques 'Spectre UV' 'Profil d'acide gras' 'Caryodendron orinocense' 'Nuez de Barinas' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Caryodendron orinocense, Karst., is a tree that grows along the eastern base of the Andes mountains in Venezuela, Ecuador, and Colombia. It is known in Venezuela as ’Nuez de Barinas, nuez or nogal de Barquisimeto’ and in other countries as ’inchi’, ’taque’, ’abay’ or ’palo de nuez’. The oil extracted from the ’nuts’ (seeds) is edible. The objective of this study was to assess the potential use of the oil extracted from the seeds in cosmetics. The organoleptic characteristics, some physical (viscosity, specific density, extensibility, UV absorbance), and chemical (fatty acid profile, titratable acidity, saponification index, unsaponifiable matter and peroxide value) characteristics, were determined by official methods. The results show a high polyunsaturated fatty acid content (75.13%) and good physical, chemical and toxicological characteristics appropriate for use in cosmetics. It was concluded that the Caryodendron oil should be useful in cosmetic formulations. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196565.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196565.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26487
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999) . - p. 151–158[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Prototypes of facial attributes developed through image averaging techniques / S. S. Hawkins in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999)
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Titre : Prototypes of facial attributes developed through image averaging techniques Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. S. Hawkins, Auteur ; D. I. Perrett, Auteur ; D. M. Burt, Auteur ; D. A. Rowland, Auteur ; I. Murahata, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 159-165 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Attributs du visage' Forme Morphing Evaluation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Image capture and quantification has proven useful in a variety of scientific applications, for example, biology, medicine, geology, meteorology and forensics. The objective of this research was to utilize this technology to quantify clinical- and consumer-perceivable changes in facial attributes. A panel of expert assessors was trained, and, in a large consumer study, consumer facial attributes were identified and grading scales for each attribute were established. These experts then rated over 240 subjects on a total of 19 different facial attributes. Based on methodology developed by Perrett et al., facial averages or prototypes were computed from panelists rated high or low for each attribute. Prototypes were developed in a 3 step process: 1) selection of 224 predefined feature points; 2) calculation of average face shape; and 3) ’morphing’ individual faces into that shape and blending the images together. Naive assessors could readily appreciate the differences in facial appearance of the prototypes. In addition, expert graders were able to identify the general class of attribute affected. This method provides a powerful tool for assessing the effects of skin care technologies. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.198474.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.198474.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26488
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999) . - p. 159-165[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire The effect of rheological properties of experimental moisturizing creams/lotions on their efficacy and perceptual attributes / S. Wang in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999)
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Titre : The effect of rheological properties of experimental moisturizing creams/lotions on their efficacy and perceptual attributes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Wang, Auteur ; M. S. Kislalioglu, Auteur ; M. Breuer, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 167–188 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polymères
Produits hydratants
RhéologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Although anecdotal evidence suggests that the rheology of creams and lotions might affect their moisturizing efficacy and perceptual qualities, to date no systematic investigation of these effects has been carried out. We prepared 12 prototype moisturizing creams that had identical overall formulae but differed in as far as they contained three different polymers (Carbopol 981, Carbopol 5984 and Permulen TR.-2) each at four concentration levels. Using these creams, we carried out two series of experiments. In the first series, we applied pre-determined quantities of creams to defined areas of skin on the forearms of eight panelists and then measured the subsequent changes in Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and Skin Capacitance (SC) values as a function of time. In the second series, the panelists were asked to spread and rub over their entire two hands as much of the creams as they deemed necessary for achieving satisfactory perceived moisturization. In this latter series, we also weighed the amounts of cream used and measured the TEWL and SC values at several skin sites as a function of time subsequent to the cream application. The panelists also scored 14 skin attributes for each of the 12 creams used. The same procedures were also carried out with a commercial skin moisturizing cream (Keri®) that was used as a control.
In separate laboratory experiments, the rheological properties (i.e. the elastic and viscous moduli) of the various creams at a number of frequencies were measured.
The analysis of the experimental results suggested that the overall rheology of creams had little direct effect on both, the moisturizing efficacy and the perceived perceptual attributes. Neither did the overall viscoelasticity or the esthetic attributes of the preparations seem to affect the amounts of creams/lotions that the panelists judged to be necessary for achieving satisfactory perceived hand moisturization.
Although all preparations contained the same occlusive material (oil) at identical concentration, nevertheless some of the preparations appeared to show different efficacies depending on the nature and the levels of the polymeric ingredient present.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203162.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203162.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26489
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999) . - p. 167–188[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Interaction of fragrance materials with 2-hydroxypropyl-B-cyclodextrin by static and dynamic head-space methods / Y. Saito in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999)
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Titre : Interaction of fragrance materials with 2-hydroxypropyl-B-cyclodextrin by static and dynamic head-space methods Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Y. Saito, Auteur ; I. Tanemura, Auteur ; T. Sato, Auteur ; H. Ueda, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 189–198 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Matériaux de parfum' '2-hydroxypropyl-?-cyclodextrine' 'Stabilité constante' 'Profil libération' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The stability constants for the inclusion of fragrance materials with 2-hydroxypropyl-?-cyclodextrin (2HP-?-C yD) in aqueous solution have been determined by the static head-space method. The 1:1 stability constants obtained by this method were in reasonable agreement with the corresponding values in the literature. In addition, the release profiles of fragrance materials from 2HP-?-CyD aqueous solution were investigated using the dynamic head-space method. It was found that the suppression of the fragrance materials release was dependent on their stability constants. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203156.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203156.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26490
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999) . - p. 189–198[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Derivatization procedure and HPLC determination of 2-ethoxyethanol in cosmetic samples / Emilia Mariani in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999)
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Titre : Derivatization procedure and HPLC determination of 2-ethoxyethanol in cosmetic samples Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emilia Mariani, Auteur ; C. Villa, Auteur ; C. Neuhoff, Auteur ; Stefano Dorato, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 199–205 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : '2-méthoxyéthanol' 'Produits de beauté' Cosmétiques Dérivatisation HPLC Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ethylene glycol monoethyl ether or 2-ethoxyethanol finds a wide industrial application as a solvent for lacquers, inks, dyes, household products and as a surfactant. It is also found in cosmetics such as nail products, face cleansers, liquid soaps, oral care products, hair colours and fixatives. The potential hazard to human health of 2-ethoxyethanol following inhalation and dermal exposure has been recently reviewed and the European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (COLIPA) has issued recommendations suggesting its non-use as a cosmetic ingredient. Therefore a simple and fast monitoring method is necessary for routine control to identify and quantify 2-ethoxyethanol in raw materials and finished cosmetics. We have developed a sensitive and selective method to determine 2-ethoxyethanol in complex matrices by precolumn derivatization with 1-naphthyl isocyanate and RP-HPLC analysis. Four laboratory-made cosmetic formulations (a nail lacquer remover, a baby oil, a skin lotion and an emollient O/W emulsion) containing three known amounts of 2-ethoxyethanol (0.1%, 2.0%, 5.0%) have been studied. The obtained results show that this chromatographic procedure provides a good estimate of the true concentration of 2-ethoxyethanol in complex matrices and it is reliable for routine analyses in quality control. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203164.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203164.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26491
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999) . - p. 199–205[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Observation of the sweating in lipstick by scanning electron microscopy / S.-Y. Seo in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999)
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Titre : Observation of the sweating in lipstick by scanning electron microscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S.-Y. Seo, Auteur ; I.-S. Lee, Auteur ; H.-Y. Shin, Auteur ; K.-Y. Choi, Auteur ; S.-H. Kang, Auteur ; H.-J. Ahn, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 207–216 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Transpiration dans le rouge à lèvres' 'Microscopie électronique balayage' (MEB) 'Matrice de cire' 'Procédé substitution gel' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The relationship between the wax matrix in lipstick and sweating has been investigated by observing the change of size and shape of the wax matrix due to sweating by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). For observation by SEM, a lipstick sample was frozen in liquid nitrogen. The oil in the lipstick was then extracted in cold isopropanol (−70 °C) for 1–3 days. After the isopropanol was evaporated, the sample was sputtered with gold and examined by SEM. The change of wax matrix underneath the surface from fine, uniform structure to coarse, nonuniform structure resulted from the caking of surrounding wax matrix. The oil underneath the surface migrated to the surface of lipstick with sweating; consequently the wax matrix in that region was rearranged into the coarse matrix. In case of flamed lipstick, sweating was delayed and the wax matrix was much coarser than that of the unflamed one. The larger wax matrix at the surface region was good for including oil. The effect of molding temperature on sweating was also studied. As the molding temperature rose, sweating was greatly reduced and the size of the wax matrix increased. It was found that sweating was influenced by the compatibility of wax and oil. A formula consisting of wax and oil that have good compatibility has a tendency to reduce sweating and increase the size of the wax matrix. When pigments were added to wax and oil, the size of the wax matrix was changed, but in all cases sweating was increased due to the weakening of the binding force between wax and oil. On observing the thick membrane of wax at the surface of lipstick a month after molding it was also found that sweating was influenced by ageing. In conclusion, the structure of the wax matrix at the surface region of lipstick was changed with the process of flaming, molding temperature, compatibility of wax and oil, addition of pigment, and ageing. In most cases, as the size of the wax matrix was increased, sweating was reduced and delayed. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181705.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181705.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26492
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999) . - p. 207–216[article]Exemplaires
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