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Mention de date : 10/1999
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierA comparison of biological activities of a new soya biopeptide studied in an in vitro skin equivalent model and human volunteers / Valérie André-Frei in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 5 (10/1999)
Titre : A comparison of biological activities of a new soya biopeptide studied in an in vitro skin equivalent model and human volunteers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Valérie André-Frei, Auteur ; E. Perrier, Auteur ; C. Augustin, Auteur ; O. Damour, Auteur ; P. Bordat, Auteur ; K. Schumann, Auteur ; Thomas Förster, Auteur ; Marianne Waldmann-Laue, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 299–311 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Modèle équivalent de peau' 'Etude in vivo' 'Matrice extracellulaire' Synthèse Peptide Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : During aging, the epidermis and dermis become thin and an efficient anti-aging product should be able to stimulate the metabolism of senescent fibroblast and keratinocytes, in order to increase the quantity of extra-cellular matrix components such as collagen and glycosaminoglycans. A study performed in parallel on an in vitro skin equivalent model, and in vivo, with human volunteers, demonstrated the efficacy of one specific soya biopeptide for anti-aging properties.
Such a biopeptide induces a significant increase of glycosaminoglycans synthesis in vitro and in vivo after a one-month treatment. We also showed that this new cosmetic ingredient is able to stimulate favourably the collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo.
This study provided the proof for anti-aging properties of a new soya biopeptide and also validated the skin equivalent model developed for this experimentation as an alternative method to animal or human testing for some cosmetic efficacy evaluations.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211929.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211929.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26475
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 5 (10/1999) . - p. 299–311[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Rheology modification of hydrogen peroxide-based applications using cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. Schmucker-Castner, Auteur ; D. Desai, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 313–325 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A fundamental study of the stability of hydrogen peroxide-based gels, thickened using cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers, will be presented. Recent systematic experiments will demonstrate that excellent long term stability of such gels can be achieved. The study evaluates different types of cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers (as well as an associative acrylic polymer), several commercial sources of hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide concentrations and the effect of pH. Resulting viscosities from combinations of these variables will be presented, as well as the effects of accelerated aging on percent active peroxide and viscosity of the thickened peroxide gels. The results of this study will enable the formulator to determine the appropriate polymer and conditions necessary for this optimal stability and rheological properties for hydrogen peroxide applications. This study will demonstrate that some cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers are very compatible and stable with H and that these polymers do not affect the H stability under certain conditions. In addition, this study will show that certain cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers can produce very viscous gels and yield higher viscosities in typical permanent hair color formulas compared to many commercially available products. Because of the excellent compatibility and stability demonstrated, cross-linked acrylic acid polymers are ideal rheological modifiers for hydrogen peroxide-based applications. The performance benefits of using a cross-linked acrylic acid polymer in two-part hair color formulations will be described in detail. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.198475.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.198475.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26476
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 5 (10/1999) . - p. 313–325[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Some challenges in modern hair colour formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriela M. Wis-Surel, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 327–340 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Teinture
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Formulation of hair coloring product involves two stages, first a development of product base followed by formulation of desired shade. During that process a special consideration needs to be given to a whole range of product characteristics such as dye stability in the product medium, colour wearability on hair, light fading and finally rheology of the product. This paper reviews improvement in permanent coloring products as it relates to dye and base composition. Examples are shown where a reduction or elimination of certain dyes, m-phenylenediamine or sodium picramate, improves long term stability and product performance on hair. In cases when only reduction of the dyes was carried out, improvement in stability was achieved through their use as secondary colour contributors and not as primary ones.
There are also other composition aspects that impact colour performance of the final product. For example, pH of the coloring mixture has a pronounced effect on the final colour developed in hair. It is shown that a shift in tonality caused by pH change can be predicted for finished product using a simple system composed of the main coupler-intermediate pair employed in the product. The colour response to pH change of this simple system was found to mirror that of the product. This predictability can be used as a formulation tool to develop more efficient dye systems. Effects of some functional materials on colour result such as propylene glycol, ascorbic acid or silicone are also shown.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.186183.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.186183.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26477
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 5 (10/1999) . - p. 327–340[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : In vitro assessment of sunscreen photostability : The effect of radiation source, sunscreen application thickness and substrate Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 341–351 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Epiderme
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Photostabilité
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The photostabilities of four sunscreen products have been assessed in vitro by applying sunscreen to a substrate and measuring the spectral transmission prior to, and after exposure to a source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Results were independent of whether an application thickness of 1 or 2 mg/cm inline image was used, and whether the UV source was natural sunlight or a xenon arc solar-simulator. There were significant differences, however, between results obtained on a roughened quartz substrate and those obtained on excised human epidermis. It is unlikely that any substrate will give an exact representation of the in vivo situation and, indeed, both quartz and excised human epidermis have disadvantages associated with their use. However, the ranking of the four products in terms of their photostability was the same for both substrates. This implies that transmission spectroscopy, with either a quartz or a human epidermis substrate, can be used successfully to compare the photostabilities of different sunscreen products. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26478
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 5 (10/1999) . - p. 341–351[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Role of ceramides 2 and 5 in the structure of the stratum corneum lipid barrier Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : David J. Moore, Auteur ; Mark E. Rerek, Auteur ; Richard Mendelsohn, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 353–368 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée
CéramidesUn céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire.
Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés.
La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia)
Couche cornée
Fourier, Spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de
LipidesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : We utilized Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy to investigate headgroup and chain interactions in model SC lipid barriers containing equimolar amounts of deuterated hexadecanoic acid, cholesterol, and ceramide 2 (non-hydroxy sphingosine) or ceramide 5 (α-hydroxy sphingosine). In the ceramide 2 model the thermotropic response of the CD and CH stretching modes indicates that hexadecanoic acid begins to disorder at 42°C while ceramide 2 remains ordered until 52°C. Additionally, splitting of the CD bending and CH hexadecanoic acid and ceramide domains. The ceramide amide I mode (1650 cm) is split into two components indicating strong intermolecular hydrogen bonding between headgroups. In the ceramide 5 model, the CH and CD stretching frequencies again reveal highly conformationally ordered ceramide 5 and hexadecanoic acid chains. Splitting of both the CD bending and CH rocking modes is observed. However, the CH rocking frequencies indicate distorted packing of the ceramide. The collapse of these highly ordered phases, and the onset of conformational disorder, occurs at 50°C for both ceramide 5 and hexadecanoic acid. The amide I and II frequencies of ceramide 5 indicate strong H-bonding, although neither mode is split. Our results demonstrate that model SC lipid systems have quite different physical properties depending on whether they contain ceramide 2 or 5. From this we infer that ceramide 2 and 5 make distinct contributions to the structural biophysics of the SC lipid barrier. Our observation of ordered lipid domains is also consistent with the recently proposed domain mosaic model of the skin barrier. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211916.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.211916.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26479
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 5 (10/1999) . - p. 353–368[article]Exemplaires
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