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Increasing the preservative palette : a multifunctional active with natural efficacy against bacteria, yeasts and moulds / Anna Crovetto in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016) . - p. 2-7 Titre : Increasing the preservative palette : a multifunctional active with natural efficacy against bacteria, yeasts and moulds Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Crovetto, Auteur ; Durant Scholz, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antifongiques Antimicrobiens Conservateurs (chimie) Conservateurs (chimie) -- Suppression ou remplacement Enzymes microbiennes Lipopeptides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The choice of suitable preservatives for use in cosmetics is rapidly diminishing due to increasing concerns over safety, exposure and sensitisation. Exacerbated by consumer demand for natural personal care, an obvious gap has become evident in the current palette of preservatives causing a distinct need for a naturel yet effective, safe and stable antifungal material. Using controlled fermentation of medium chair triglycerides, fractionated from coconut oil, with the probiotic bacteria Lactobacillus gives a sufficient concentration of lipopeptides to provide efficient antifungal activity. This COSMOS certified ingredient is called "Lipopeptide Complex". Supported by challenge test data under varying conditions, as well as in vivo studies to show an increase in skin moisturisation, density, and cellular viability, this new multifunctional active can help to provide a much needed antifungal boost. By combining this antifungal "Lipopeptide Complex" with a known antimicrobial peptide (Lactobacillus Ferment), a naturel system is formed which offers broad spectrum protection against bacteria, yeasts and moulds. Additionally, its moisturising and conditioning features support a holistic approach to formulating. Note de contenu : - Alternative antimicrobials - Antimicrobial lipopeptides - Activity demonstrated En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PzUM3t97E58W4jPvUfdnFq0qXSeXbnxF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26314 [article]

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Agastache mexicana counteracts the effects of psychological stress on skin / Laura Gallego in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016) . - p. 8-16 Titre : Agastache mexicana counteracts the effects of psychological stress on skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Laura Gallego, Auteur ; Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Auteur ; Ricard Armengol, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 8-16 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Stress -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nowadays, psychological stress is a very relevant aspect in daily life. lt occurs as a result of a stimulus, which leads to the activation of several physiological systems among them the activation of the HPA axis. Once activated it causes the release of key stress molecules which leads further to a profound alteration of immune responses. The inflammatory reaction itself is managed by the nuclear factor (NF)-kappa B, which is able to translocate to the cell nucleus once psychological stress is detected. In the nucleus it binds to the DNA inside the cell to regulate the expression of numerous components of the immune system. if stress becomes a chronic situation our organism reaches a phase of exhaustion with adverse consequences. Related to our skin, such consequences could be the outbreak or worsening of several disorders such as rosacea, psoriasis and other inflammatory events like acne. Our laboratory has developed an active, derived from Agastache mexicana, capable of counteracting the consequences that psychological stress can unleash on the skin. It has been successfully demonstrated that this natural active is able to inhibit the translocation of NF-KB to the nucleus in Keratinocytes. lt has also been confirmed that the active inhibits the release of highly up-regulated cytokines. In vivo studies have shown a reduction of continued vasodilation by between 25 and 30 %. It also enables capillaries to recover their ability to contract and improve their strength and integrity, reducing skin redness. By using a thermal camera it was shown that this active reduces skin temperature by 0.4 degrees in subjects with stress and/or skin prone to develop rosacea. Chromameter measurements showed a reduction of skin redness by 9%. The active also confirmed a positive impact on the skin barrier as it reduced skin water loss by 13 % and an improvement of skin hydration by 6 %. The natural active AgascalmTM derived from Agastache mexicana can be strongly recommended as an active ingredient with excellent anti-inflammatory activity that modulates the biochemical mechanisms that link psychological stress with skin deterioration. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The brain-skin link - Consequences and signs of psychological stress in skin - Natural options to counteract psychological effects on skin - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vitro : NF-κB translocation - In situ immunolabeling - Transcriptional effects - RtqPCR array - Cytokines release - Cytometric bead array - Instrumental analysis - Evaluation of the skin microvascular tonicity - Evaluation of the anti-redness efficacy - Color analyzer - Imagine analysis - Evaluation of the skin barrier and moisturizing - Skin barrier by transepidermal water loss - Skin moisturizing by corneometry - Statistical data analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : In vitro : NF-κB translocation - In situ immunolabeling - Transcriptional effect - RT-qPCR array - Cytokines release - Cytometric bead array - In vivo : Evaluation of the skin microvascular tonicity - Evaluation of the anti-redness efficacy - Evaluation of the skin barrier and moisturizing improvement En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BqB_D4yi6Sc3b4AYSfk8DYKRINGQcLqV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26315 [article]

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A novel ingredient with 3R effect targeting impure skin in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016) . - p. 18-27 Titre : A novel ingredient with 3R effect targeting impure skin Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 18-27 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Anti-inflammatoires Dermatite sébhorrhéique Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Séborrhée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : RonaCare® SereneShield (INCI:Butyl Hydroxycyclohexane Carboxylate) is an adequate new solution to an issue well-known from our teenage years and yet rarely associated with adulthood : oily skin and its consequences on the appearance of acne formation. The success of this ingredient is linked to its 3R effect : RonaCare® SereneShield Regulates sebum, Reduces inflammation and Rebalances skin microflora. In order to substantiate the sebum regulation claim, in vitro testings showing the reduction of the enzyme 5-a reductase type but also in vivo ones with determination of skin surface sebum reduction were performed. The reduction of inflammation was supported by colony counting tests showing the growth reduction of P. acnes but also by 3D biofilm model showing the inhibition of P. acnes biofilm. In vivo investigation showed the decrease of the inflammatory metabolites porphyrins. Finally, to support the skin microflora rebalance claim, in vitro colony counting tests were done showing the specificaction of RonaCare SereneShield on non-beneficial bacteria, while marginally affecting beneficial ones. Reduction of non-beneficial bacteria adhesion could be verified on human reconstructed epidermis. Overall, a novel ingredient has been found with a unique mode of refining consumer's skin complexion towards a healthier and more aesthetic look. Note de contenu : - REGULATION OF SEBUM : Reduction of 5-α reductase Type I - Reduction of in vivo skin surface sebum - REGULATION OF INFLAMMATION : P. acnes growth reduction - Inhibition of biofilm (Determination of SMIC - Biofilm inhibition via dynamic fluid exchange 3D biofilm model) - In vivo investigations (Visualization of bacterial porphyrins - Redness and inflammation) - REGULATION OF SKIN MICROFLORA : In vitro colony counting assay on P. acnes and S. epidermidis - Reduction of adhesion of S. aureus on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) - FORMULATIONS En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QwRAKDhC1dOdfBYMeWhpdNaVAv81o5z3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26316 [article]

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An innovative approach based on maca to enhance your body shape / Maud Chapis in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016) . - p. 28-33 Titre : An innovative approach based on maca to enhance your body shape Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Maud Chapis, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 28-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amincissants Beauté corporelle Etudes cliniques Evaluation Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The silhouette appearance is directly linked to cellulite issue. Concerning around 85 % of women, cellulite is the cause of unflattering curves due to local fat accumulation (mainly localized on thigh, hips and abdomen), altered skin aspect : "orange-peel", bad blond circulation and heavy legs feelings. In acting as slimming, draining and firming agent, our Maca extract offers a complete solution to recover a reshaped silhouette, to reduce cellulite and orange-peel aspect as well as reducing heavy-leg feeling. Our new patented Maca extract is derived from Maca, a plant mainly harvested in Peru, also known as Peruvian Ginseng for its energizing properties. Based on polyphenols of Maca, it is a sustainable ingredient obtained from the dried plant using an extraction process that is friendly to both people and the environment. Note de contenu : - BIOLOGICAL EVALUATION : Action on fat-shedding and fibrosis of the hypodermis - Enhancement of microcirculation - Strengthening of the structure - CLINICAL EVALUATION En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16nbO3EXkKbbS65T2yD_8QWrdBdtoL5Ko/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26317 [article]

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The challenge of making non-nanometric inorganic UV filters / Pilar Leret in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016) . - p. 34-37 Titre : The challenge of making non-nanometric inorganic UV filters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pilar Leret, Auteur ; Julián Jiménez, Auteur ; José Francisco Fernández, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 34-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Nanoparticules -- Toxicologie Nanotechnologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nanotechnology is recognised as one of the most important new technologies of the 21m century, and there is clearly a public expectation that it will figure prominently in the future economic landscape. Nanotechnology promises new materials for industrial applications with new or enhanced physicochemical properties that are different from these of their micron-sized counterparts. Moreover, nanotechnology is focused on the new era of manufacturing societies based on knowledge. As nanotechnology enters industrial applications, the potential exposure of humans and the environment to these materials (nanoparticles in particular) is unavoidable. As nanoparticles go through their life-cycle (from development, to manufacture, to consumer usage, to final disposal) different human groups (workers, bystanders, users), animal species (e.g. worm, fish or human through secondary exposure) and natural environments (air, soil, sediment, water) will be exposed to them. A growing body of evidence has shown a range of toxic effects from engineered nanomaterials (nm), suggesting that even their low mass exposure will result in a risk to human health or the environment. Living bodies are net prepared for the massive appearance of nanoparticles and their derivative effects. Therefore, it is clear that there is a need for a better understanding of the relationship between nm's properties and the adverse responses they can potentially cause in the short term. Nowadays, governments are tackling industrial concerns around nm use by applying restrictive policies. At present, long-term studies are not an option and it is compulsory to produce nm with a reduction of the collateral adverse effects. Reducing the potential risks of nanomaterials represents firstly a challenge to the companies and secondly a tremendous business opportunity for companies to gain an advantage over competitors. Note de contenu : - IS THERE A WAY TO OBTAIN BENEFITS FROM SAFE-BY DESIGN MN'S ? : AD particles technology - ENHANCE U-T : An inorganic composite suitable for use as a UV filter in cosmetics - TABLES : 1. International nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients (INCI) and function of enhance U products - 2. Formula of the lotion developed to test the SPF in vitro En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1epu1JM3riDau2QQZW1soAk-mTj7GIDnA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26318 [article]

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"Quick and clean !" - Efficient washing-up liquid that meets the requirements of the consumer / Céline Orizet in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016) . - p. 38-43 Titre : "Quick and clean !" - Efficient washing-up liquid that meets the requirements of the consumer Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Céline Orizet, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 38-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Détergents Formulation (Génie chimique) Mousse (chimie) Surfactants Vaisselle -- Nettoyage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A good skimming ability as well as a good, long-lasting lather white simultaneously achieving a good cleaning efficiency, particularly on baked-on food residues, plus an acceptable price-performance ratio are the main properties consumers primarily look for in dishwashing agents. The developing foam has an important signal effect on the performance of the hand dishwashing detergent. The key to this is a combination of surfactants and polymers by which an intensive long-lasting foam and a high effectiveness to remove baked-on food residues will be obtained. Note de contenu : - Consumer requirements on formulations - Foam is the key signal for consumer acceptance - Foam volume - Long lasting foam - Removal of baked-on food - Removal of burnt-on soil - Formulations - Table : Formulations of hand dishwashing detergents with high foam volume, long-lasting foam and high cleaning performance En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z8iyk_V18l0r0VIWCtLai1fuDs--bZn5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26319 [article]

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Personal care products and their water footprint / Andrea Wanninger in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016) . - p. 44-48 Titre : Personal care products and their water footprint Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andrea Wanninger, Auteur ; Ann Marie Bernhardt, Auteur ; Lea Rebecca Grefe, Auteur ; Julia Kellermann, Auteur ; Ricarda Kohlen, Auteur ; Alexandra Ott, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 44-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Cosmétiques -- Emballages Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Eau -- Consommation Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Sustainability is a key challenge. Taking different environmental factors into account, life cycle assessments of products are carried out. One aspect, which has not been a particular focus in the past is the Water Footprint (WF). Clean freshwater is scarce in some countries and sometimes a lot of virtual water is required in order to produce consumer goods. In this ar¬ticle, the WF of personal care products will be emphasised The focus is on stages of the life cycle, which involve the largest amounts of water. Note de contenu : - Water use and water scarcity - Definition and explanation of the water footprint (WF) - Life cycle of personal products regarding high WF - Ingredients - Packaging materials - Manufacturing of personal care products - Product use and possibilities to save water - Problems of disposal (end-of life) - Table : Ratio of product quantity and packaging material for typical personal care products En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QrNfflIZKme-PGaqOonHJZMuaZPILQ07/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26320 [article]

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The viscosity of a liquid / Jutta Gehm in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016) . - p. 50-53 Titre : The viscosity of a liquid Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jutta Gehm, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 50-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Liquides (Chimie) Rhéologie Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Again and again we are commissioned as an expert agency in the field of rheology to determine the viscosity of a substance as one numerical value. But what does this mean ? Is there ever an absolute viscosity of a liquid ? As is well known, the viscosity of any fluid substance is dependent on various external influences, such as temperature, pressure, shear stress, and also on the previous history of the sample preparation. The viscosity of a liquid is not so simple. The essential question that is answered in the viscosity measurement is, how to influence the flow properties of the product so that it is most easily processed (pumping, mixing, filling,…) and how to achieve the desired properties for the intended application of the product. But how can you gave an answer to this complex question as simply as possible ? Rotational or oscillatory rheometers with DIN measurement systems can recreate many application conditions and thus can practically be used to determine the viscosity. Automated measurement results can be obtained quickly and easily. Algorithm provide the corresponding figures for the decision : good or bad. Note de contenu : - VISCOSITY MEASUREMENT USING A ROTATIONAL VISCOMETER - SAME SAMPLE - DIFFERENT : Shear rate. What does that mean ? - SHEAR RATES IN PRACTICE : Example : applying a lotion to the skin - Example : Shear rate during flow through a nozzle - SINGLE-POINT MEASUREMENT AND FLOW CURVE - CHARACTERIZATION OF THE FLOW BEHAVIOR BY KEY FIGURES En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sWN7vq9kZFxwPm7taZ4zxUznmSobeuCM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26321 [article]

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Refresh & protecting lotion, SOLI-006-02 in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016) . - p. 54 Titre : Refresh & protecting lotion, SOLI-006-02 Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 54 Note générale : Fiche formulation Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents rafraichissants Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Soins de beauté Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Formulation d'un produit cosmétique : Lotion protectrice et rafraichissante. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ewKECMmAQ9oBsFm8uOfC0bSuPltOWdGs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41020 [article]

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Contouring face cream, MAC 753/4/2 in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 142, N° 5 (05/2016) . - p. 54 Titre : Contouring face cream, MAC 753/4/2 Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 54 Note générale : Fiche formulation Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contour du visage -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Formulation d'un produit cosmétique : Crème de contour du visage En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wPSuYFyEISYKJQMBjjz802-DPejZvb5f/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41021 [article]

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