Effect of regioisomers of hydroxystearic acids as peroxisomal proliferator-activated receptor agonists to boost the anti-ageing potential of retinoids in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 619-626 Titre : Effect of regioisomers of hydroxystearic acids as peroxisomal proliferator-activated receptor agonists to boost the anti-ageing potential of retinoids Type de document : document électronique Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 619-626 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide hydroxystéarique Antiâge Collagène Dermo-cosmétologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Protéomique La protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à-dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données. Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité. Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances. La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine. La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia) Récepteur alpha activé par les proliférateurs péroxysomaux Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Introduction : We report on the in vitro and ex vivo effects of chiral (R)-10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA) compared with other mono-hydroxystearic acid regioisomers and stearic acid (SA) together with its benefit when combined with retinol. - Methods : Following treatment with hydroxystearic acids peroxisomal proliferator-activated receptor alpha (PPARα) activity was determined in a luciferase reporter gene assay, collagen type I was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts by immunohistochemistry, modification of the intracellular fibroblast collagen proteome was studied by mass-spectrometry-based proteomics and collagen type III was assessed by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin. - Results : 10-HSA was the most effective PPARα agonist (15.7× induction; p < 0.001), followed by 9-HSA (10.1× induction) and then 12-HSA (4.9× induction) with 17-HSA (1.7× induction) being similar to the effects of stearic acid (1.8× induction). Collagen type I levels were increased in primary human fibroblasts by 2.12× and 1.56× for 10-HSA and 9-HSA, respectively, in vitro with the10-HSA being significant (p < 0.05), whereas 12-HSA and SA had no statistical effect over the untreated control. 10-HSA and 12-HSA modified the intracellular fibroblast collagen proteome slightly with significant increases in collagen alpha-1 (VI) and alpha-3 (VI) proteins but only 10-HSA increased levels of collagen alpha-2 (V), alpha-1 (III), alpha-1 (I) and alpha-2 (I) (all p < 0.05) with the increases being significantly different between 10-HSA and 12-HSA for collagen alpha-1 (I), collagen-3 (VI) and collagen alpha-2 (I) (p < 0.01). Collagen type III in ex vivo skin was increased +47% (p < 0.05) by 0.05% (1.7 mM) retinol, +70% (p < 0.01) by 0.01% (0.33 mM) 10-HSA and the combination increased levels by +240% (p < 0.01 for either ingredient). - Conclusion : Chiral (R)-10-HSA has been shown to be superior to 9, 12 and 17-HSA as a PPARα agonist. Moreover, 10-HSA stimulated collagen synthesis in monolayer fibroblast culture as assessed by proteomics and immunohistochemically. Furthermore, we also show the synergistic effects of 10-HSA with retinol on collagen III synthesis in skin explants. These results further highlight the efficacy of 10-HSA as a cosmetically acceptable PPARα agonist and anti-ageing ingredient. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hydroxystearic acid variants - Experimental strategy - PPARα transactivation assay MEASUREMENT OF TOTAL CELLULAR COLLAGEN TYPE I CONTENTS IN NORMAL HUMAN FIBROBLASTS : Fibroblast collagen proteomics following treatment with 10-HSA and 12-HSA - Ex vivo skin sampling and type III collagen quantification - TABLE 1. Fold induction of PPARα by different SA variants tested at 1.7 µM - TABLE 2. Fold change of collagen proteins induced by 10-HSA and 12-HSA (5 µM) in primary fibroblast monolayer cultures determines by mass spectrometry proteomics DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12730 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bAONGDLkyK9gsokBiR8F3UQbeLAuYydy/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36865 [article]

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