Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties / Carine Jacques in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 391-404 Titre : Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Carine Jacques, Auteur ; Daniel Bacqueville, Auteur ; Corinne Jeanjean-Miquel, Auteur ; Camille Génies, Auteur ; Maité Noizet, Auteur ; Amélie Tourette, Auteur ; Sandrine Bessou-Touya, Auteur ; Hèlène Duplan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 391-404 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cosmétiques Glucoside de tocophéryle Ingrédients cosmétiques Oxothiazolidine Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration (physique) Produits antisolaires Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : We investigated the dermal bioavailability and antioxidative properties of a sunscreen formulation containing two antioxidants, oxothiazolidine (OTZ) and δ-tocopheryl glucoside (DTG). OTZ reacts directly with reactive oxygen species to form taurine, while DTG is metabolized in δ-tocopherol to achieve antioxidative activities. - Methods : After topical application to a hair follicle-derived reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, followed by solar-simulated radiation, kinetics of bioavailability and antioxidative responses were measured over 24 h. Markers for oxidative stress were malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities. - Results : The two antioxidants had different bioavailability profiles: OTZ was rapidly and extensively absorbed, whereas DTG was slowly absorbed and converted to δ-tocopherol. Compared to OTZ alone, the protection against effects on MDA levels and SOD and catalase activities was higher when DTG was used alone or in combination with OTZ. When used in combination, the degree of protection increased over time and remained constant over 24 h with maximal protection 2 h post-irradiation. DTG slowly penetrated into the skin and was present in the skin at all post-irradiation timepoints, thus allowing a slow but constant supply of δ-tocopherol over at least 24 h. By contrast, the oxidative protection by OTZ was immediate but short-lived due to its rapid penetration through the RHE and into the receptor fluid. - Conclusion : These results indicate a complementary sunlight protective action of OTZ and DTG with an immediate delivery of OTZ just after topical application of the formulation, and a prolonged skin delivery of δ-tocopherol from the slower penetration and metabolism of DTG. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - Reconstructed skin models - Application of the sunscreens - Skin irradiation - Penetration and metabolism using reconstructed skin models - Measurement of oxidative stress and antioxidant response in RHE models - Data handling and analyses - RESULTS : Skin penetration of 14C-OTZ and 14C-DTG equivalents - Formation and distribution of metabolites - Antioxidant properties of OTZ and DTG - MDA - SOD - Catalyse DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12705 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dMEd-TG9S7X1oIiAhI9cz-n490m132CR/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36674 [article]

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