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The 56th John Arthur Wilson lecture sustainability - The passport to our future / Dietrich Tegtmeyer in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CX, N° 8 (08/2015)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CX, N° 8 (08/2015) . - p. 240-250 Titre : The 56th John Arthur Wilson lecture sustainability - The passport to our future Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Dietrich Tegtmeyer, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 240-250 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Développement durable Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : For the past ten years I have participated in many discussions about sustainability around the leather world. In today’s John Arthur Wilson lecture I will attempt to summarize key points I learned during this time in symposiums, readings, debates and various companies programs. I also did some research for this presentation ; one book by Iris Publé has me inspired most ; and many of the statements in this lecture are somehow linked to thoughts and theories of this book. If I didn’t made always a correct reference it is not done by purpose and a result of translation. The title for this speech – Sustainability, the passport to our future – was inspired by a comment I picked up in a shoe sustainability summit last year in Shanghai; I made a note, because I found it a good fit, at least to my understanding of this. In terms of sustainability we need to see our planet as one single bio-dome. Recently Alexander Gerst, a German astronaut from my hometown Cologne, was for the first time in his life aboard the ISS space station. After arrival I was listening to an interview with him via satellite on our local radio station and I found it remarkable what he said. He was speaking about his thoughts when he was sitting the first time here, on this famous place in the station, looking out of the window and watching the incredible view of our planet Earth. He said "I was looking for hours, it was completely silent... first I thought, how wonderful our planet is, so colorful, so perfect, so nicely placed in this dark orbit. Then looking in the endless universe I became aware how small our planet earth actually is ; what a tiny part in this huge black orbit.” "But then", he said, and this really attracted my attention, "I became aware how sensitive and how fragile our planet really is. I have seen the tiny blue layer of atmosphere around the planet, which actually is our life saving protection shield between the warm climate on earth and the black, cold death in the universe. Without this magic safety membrane everything would be dead, and it is so thin, it can be destroyed so easily. Therefore, it up most important for everyone in everything what we do to maintain and preserve this life saving atmosphere". With this introduction I wanted to attract your attention to this lecture and try to project you, for the next hour, on a level outside our day-to-day world and local problems, to observe sustainability issues from a real global perspective. Sometimes this helps to adjust our compass ; as the Apollo astronaut Eugene Cernan has put it in nice words, being 400 000 km away from the earth : "We left to explore the moon, but actually we discovered the planet earth". In the last 100 years the economy was driven by growth and innovation optimism. Inventors and researcher of course didn’t know, where all the developments would finally end up, but the playground was so big and discoveries have been so interesting and fascinating, that the development process was perpetuating and couldn’t be stopped or redirected. Unfortunately during this rapid innovation and development process both public health and the environment suffered, they were not the focus for a long period of time. Note de contenu : - Main sustainability issues the world is currently facing - Evolution of current understanding of sustainability - Technology cycles and future predictions - Paradigm shifts for companies - Important role of politics - Position of the leather industry En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18krFbN0slV4RSaEH3eRmHMvTWq8w_D36/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24386 [article]

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Diagnosis, prevention and treatment of fatty spew in the tannery / Ricardo A. Tournier in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CX, N° 8 (08/2015)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CX, N° 8 (08/2015) . - p. 260-276 Titre : Diagnosis, prevention and treatment of fatty spew in the tannery Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ricardo A. Tournier, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 260-276 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Défauts Repousses grasses Index. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : A comprehensive review of the possible causes and mechanisms of fatty spew formation is presented, together with a guide to remedial treatments for the defect. Best practices and trouble-shooting guidelines are provided that can be used for the prevention and systematic treatment of fatty spew on the tannery floor. The free fatty acid content of individual leathers can be used for routine assessment of the risk of spew events occurring at any stage of production, as well as the likelihood of fatty spew forming in crust and finished leather. A systematic approach to grading leathers according to their free fatty acid content is presented. This method can be applied on a routine basis in a production line, and/or prior to sending customer shipments. Note de contenu : - 1. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF FATTY SPEW : Background - TG hydrolysis - Animal fat - Fat content of raw hides - Fatliquoring materials - 2. FATTY SPEW TYPES AND FORMATION MECHANISMS : Commonest types of fatty spew - Recent research findings - 3. POSSIBLE SOURCES OF FATTY SPEW GENERATION : Raw material - Fatliquors - Lipases - Mold - Microcrystalline waxes - Other finishing auxiliaries that can give rise to fatty spew - 4. INVESTIGATION OF FATTY SPEW EVENTS ON THE TANNERY FLOOR : A. Traceability - B. Systematic guidelines for the identification of fatty spew causes (1. Confirm the fatty nature of the spew - 2. Determine the approximate melting point - 3. Analyze spewed leather samples - 4. Analyze spew samples - 5. Analyze fatliquor samples - 6. Collect data on - 7. Cause and effect analysis (CEA) - 8. Three-factor two-level experiments - 9. External laboratory - Diagnosis of probable causes - 5. FATTY SPEW PREVENTION : A. Best practices to avoid fatty spew problems at key points (1. Close inspection of incoming raw material - 2. Efficient pre-fleshing of raw hides - 3. Soaking, liming and degreasing - 4. Routine laboratory monitoring of limed pelts - 5. Deliming and degreasing - 6. Routing laboratory monitoring of wet blue hides - 7. Ensure a good level of fungicide in wet blue hides - 8. Ensure thorough neutralization before retannage - 9. Good level of fungicide in retanned and fatliquored leather - 10. Control of incoming fatliquors - 11. Do not over-acidify with formic acid in the fixation - 13. Proceed to dry out leather without delay - 14. In drying steps, cool hides before piling them - 15. Routinely determine total fat content (percentage) in crust samples) - B. Monitoring fatliquors to prevent fatty spew - Schindler method - Oleoquim method - 6. EARLY DETECTION PROCEDURES : A. Free fatty acids (FFA) - Cold chambers - Fat and FFA - Fat bleeding test - Modified method - 7. FATTY SPEW MITIGATION : Remedial treatment for spewed leather En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11junLDmbArchpL_qAKT3vWYjw6uNYbKf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24387 [article]

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