Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 452-461 Titre : Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; A. Abric, Auteur ; D. Amar, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; C. Caron, Auteur ; C. Nègre, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 452-461 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s Dermatologie Hommes Perception de l'âge Signes du visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age, tired-look and healthy glow on Chinese men of different ages. - Material and methods : Photographs were taken of the faces of 420 Chinese men of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 15 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely wrinkles/texture, ptosis/sagging, pigmentation disorders, vascular disorders and cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 80 Chinese women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to : (i) attribute on a 0–10 scale their perception of both the tired-look and healthy glow aspects and (ii) estimate the age of the subject. - Results : With the exception of vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The ptosis/sagging or pigmentation disorders showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found to be closely correlated, the vast majority of subjects were judged older by 2–10 years. The changes in facial signs (and their related clusters) were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of skin spot density and cheek skin pores. Although the aspects of tired-look and healthy glow were logically found to be anti-correlated, tired-look was more statistically associated with perceived age for the five clusters. Signs of eye contour appear to be closely correlated with the perception of a tired-look. - Conclusion : Within facial clinical clusters, wrinkles/texture and ptosis/sagging are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Chinese men. Tired-look appears to be strongly associated with perceived age. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Protocol - Pictures acquisitions - Grading the facial skin ageing signs - Appraisal by a native panel - Statistics - RESULTS : Correlation between perceived age (PA) and real age (RA) - Facial signs and real ages - Facial signs and perceived ages - Influence of tired-look and healthy glow on PA - Relationships between the tired-look criterion on the gradings of facial signs and their clusters - Table 1 : Distribution of Chinese men with age cluster - Table 2 : 15 clinical facial signs and their respective photographic scale's ranges for Chinese men - Table 3 : Correlations of facial signs and perceived ages (PA), all ages included - Table 4 : Correlations between tired-look, healthy glow, PA and RA in Chinese men at all ages and under or before their forties - Table 5 : Correlations of facial signs grades with tired-look for all age groups DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12649 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iL-fEdmtgXsm9aKHLZuGNiQkaFDsxWuQ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35410 [article]

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Structural and functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men: A pilot study / Chengda Ye in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 530-541 Titre : Structural and functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men: A pilot study Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Chengda Ye, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; Yang Wang, Auteur ; Hua Sun, Auteur ; Guancheng Yang, Auteur ; Yanwen Jiang, Auteur ; Caroline Delaunay, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 530-541 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomécanique Chinois(e)s Mesure -- Instruments Signes du visage Statistiques Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The objective of the study was to associate, on the same Chinese male subjects, changes in facial ageing signs with some biomechanical skin properties. - Methods : The severities of 20 facial ageing signs of 219 differently aged Chinese men (20–65 years) were graded in blind by trained experts through standardized photographs, using a referential skin Atlas dedicated to Asian men. On each subject, the mechanical properties were assessed on the cheek area (left or right at random) by the validated suction technique Cutometer®. Finally, the skin colour parameters were assessed on images from VISIA-CR device. - Results : Clinically speaking, the severity of almost all facial ageing signs increases from 30 to 65 years, in a linear-like progression, whereas the 20–30 years shows weak increases. Skin colour shows slight but progressive decreases in Luminance and ITA, whereas the yellow and red components slightly increased between 40 and 65 years. At the exception of skin firmness, the skin mechanical properties show a clear decline during the 30–50 years period and plateau beyond. - Conclusion : The present study suggests that the 20–30 years period, albeit more clinically ‘silent’ than the other periods of age, seems to be an age range during which early alterations of some dermal elements' onset. Deeper in vivo investigating techniques (Echography, Multiphotonic microscopy) are needed to confirm such hypothesis. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Clinical grading - Instrumental measurements - Statistics - RESULTS : Facial clinical signs and age - Instrumental measurements and age - Table 1 : Distribution of the 219 Chinese male subjects by age groups and their sample sizes - Table 2 : Summary of the 20 facial signs in Asian men that can be graded by the experts, re-grouped into 5 major clusters DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12802 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14fwdiRgb67UpQpU9Xw5mjeBfdzGteaA_/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38151 [article]

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