A blackberry-dill extract combination synergistically increases skin elasticity in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 444-451 Titre : A blackberry-dill extract combination synergistically increases skin elasticity Type de document : document électronique Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 444-451 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aneth et constituants Dermo-cosmétologie Elasticité Etudes cliniques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Mures et constituants Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : The loss of structural elastin due to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing results in the skin’s inability to stretch and recoil (decrease in elasticity) and manifests as loss of skin firmness and sagging. While other extracellular matrix (ECM) components such as collagen and hyaluronic acid are continually synthesized and assembled through life, elastic fibres are not. Elastic fibre assembly and functionality require fibre cross-linking, induced by the lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) enzymes, which sharply decrease during ageing. - Objective : To evaluate the enhanced elastogenic effect of a blackberry–dill extract combination, which was hypothesized to induce elastin fibre component synthesis, fibre cross-linking and reduce elastin fibre degradation. - Methods : The blackberry and the dill extracts were tested separately and in combination to confirm single ingredient bioactivity and synergistic benefits. Human skin explants, dermal fibroblasts, elastase assays, ELISAs, quantitative real-time PCRs and spectrofluorometer measurements were used. Moreover, a double-blinded, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out to assess skin elasticity using Cutometer and histologically from biopsies. - Results : The blackberry extract induced elastin gene expression, elastin promoter activity and inhibited elastic fibre degradation by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) 9 and 12. The dill extract induced elastin, collagen and LOXL1 gene expression, resulting in enhanced fibre cross-linking in human skin explants. Clinically, the blackberry and dill combination treatment displayed synergistic pro-elasticity activity as compared to each ingredient alone and placebo. - Conclusion : Taken together, these results demonstrated the two multimodal plant-based extracts complemented each other in terms of bioactivity and resulted in a synergistic elastogenesis induction. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vitro - Clinical - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Blackberry extract increased levels of elastin gene expression and tropoelastin, while also inhibited skin elastases - Dill extract increased LOXL1, elastin and collagen1A1 gene expression, as well as elastic fibre cross-linking in human skin explants - The blackberry–dill extract combination did not impair individual ingredient bioactivity and resulted in an elastin and pro-collagen induction both at a gene and protein level in HDF - The blackberry–dill extract combination resulted in a synergistic elasticity induction as compared to individual ingredient alone and placebo control in a human clinical study DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12644 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xpRVWob-femTISTNKghECF-xBsZqpKOI/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35409 [article]

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