Factors influencing the seam efficiency of goat nappa leathers / K. Phebe in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CVII, N° 3 (03/2012)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CVII, N° 3 (03/2012) . - p. 78-84 Titre : Factors influencing the seam efficiency of goat nappa leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : K. Phebe, Auteur ; Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Auteur ; K. Krishnaraj, Auteur ; B. Chandrasekaran, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 78-84 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Cuir -- Couture Cuir pleine fleur Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux de chèvres Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Apparel making is the process of making shell structures from flat fabrics or leathers to match the shape of human body. During this process, leathers are subjected to various types of mechanical stresses, which are indispensable for the garment appearance. The present study involves investigating the mechanical properties of goat nappa leathers such as seam strength, breaking strength, seam efficiency, tensile strength, percent elongation, double hole stitch tear strength, flexural rigidity, initial tensile modulus and formability and establishing a relationship between seam efficiency and other mechanical properties. Seam efficiency of goat nappa leathers chosen in this study range from 55 to 76% in both parallel and perpendicular directions to the backbone. It has been observed that breaking strength of goat nappa leathers seems to have a significant influence on seam efficiency among the various mechanical properties studied with a negative correlation (R = –0.92). This means that modifications in fatliquoring and other related leather processing steps may offer low strength goat nappa leathers with more softness leading to enhanced seam efficiency. These results would help tanners and leather garment manufacturers to make appropriate selection of leather processing steps and sewing procedures, thereby avoiding possible economic losses. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Flexural rigidity - Tensile strength and extension - Initial tensile modulus - Formability - Seam strength - Breaking strength - Stitch tear strength (double hole) - Seam efficiency - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Seam efficiency - Seam efficiency versus seam strength - Seam efficiency versus breaking strength - Seam efficiency versus tensile properties - Seam efficiency versus stitch tear strength (double hole - Seam efficiency versus flexural rigidity - Seam efficiency versus initial tensile modulus - Seam efficiency versus formability En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lKg-3bnD_ZNoxOtM2mjRl49IFV3RUpjG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14419 [article]

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Influence of mechanical properties of sheep nappa leathers on seam efficiency / K. Phebe in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 95, N° 1 (01-02/2011)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 95, N° 1 (01-02/2011) . - p. 16-22 Titre : Influence of mechanical properties of sheep nappa leathers on seam efficiency Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : K. Phebe, Auteur ; Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Auteur ; K. Krishnaraj, Auteur ; B. Chandrasekaran, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : p. 16-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contraintes (mécanique) Cuir -- Couture Cuir pleine fleur Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux de moutons Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Sewability is one of the essential parameters influencing the garment making process as well as the quality of the final product. In this work, sewability of sheep nappa leathers was measured in terms of seam efficiency and was correlated with related mechanical properties. Seam efficiency was found to be between 44 and 99 % for the sheep nappa leathers employed in this study. Among the various mechanical properties studied, elongation at break seems to influence the seam efficiency significantly as evidenced from the correlation coefficient value of 0.99. While tensile strength and seam strength aslo had fairly good relation with seam efficiency with correlation coefficient values greater than or equal to 0.90. Formability, breaking strength and stitch tear strength (double hole) exhibited a correlation coefficient of >-0.80 with seam efficiency, indicating a high dependency. While most of these parameters had direct relation with seam efficiency, indicating a high dependency. While most of these parameters had direct relation with seam efficiency, initial tensile modulus had an inverse relation. Flexural rigidity did not show any significant relation with seam efficiency. The results obtained in this study would form a basis for designing and fabricating of leather garments. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL METHODS : Materials - TEST METHODS : Flexural rigidity - Fabric tensile strength and elongation at break - Initial tensile modulus - Formability - Seam strength - Breaking strength - Stitch tear strength (double hole) - Seam efficiency. - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Seam efficiency - Seam efficiency versus seam strength - Seam efficiency versus stitch tear strength (double hole) - Seam efficiency versus breaking strength - Seam efficiency versus tensile strength - Seam efficiency versus percentage elongation at break - Seam efficiency versus flexural rigidity - Seam efficiency versus initial tensile modulus - Seam efficiency versus formability. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12GhBwNaV4lpEj1zi_pn3PAEp-2JOWx3i/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10818 [article]

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Influence of sewing threads on seam pucker of sheep nappa leathers / G. Woynshet in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 98, N° 4 (07-08/2014)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 98, N° 4 (07-08/2014) . - p. 158-162 Titre : Influence of sewing threads on seam pucker of sheep nappa leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : G. Woynshet, Auteur ; K. Phebe, Auteur ; Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Auteur ; K. Krishnaraj, Auteur ; B. Chandrasekaran, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 158-162 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir -- Couture Cuir pleine fleur Cuirs et peaux de moutons Fibres polyesters Fil Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : This study reports an experimental investigation on the influence of sewing threads on seam puckering of sheep nappa leathers with variation of stitch density, stitch type and thickness of leathers. The seam pucker of sheep nappa leathers was evaluated using lock and zigzag stitches. Seam pucker was correlated with reversible strain, leather properties, thread properties and stitch density. The results show that core spun thread resulted in lower pucker than spun polyester thread. Also, specimens sewn with reasonably thicker and stronger thread exhibited less pucker. It is also observed that seam pucker decreased as the stitch density increased. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURES : Materials - Properties of sewing thread - Properties of sheep nappa leathers - Analysis of seam pucker - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Properties of sewing thread - Properties of sheep nappa leahter - Relation between seam pucker and mechanical properties of threads, leather and stitch density En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1flvM3Cm98hVR7X0yZBV8c_9b4g7ofZzC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21815 [article]

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