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Polycation substantivity to hair during shampoo application, foaming, and rinsing / Manuel Gamez-Garcia in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001)
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Titre : Polycation substantivity to hair during shampoo application, foaming, and rinsing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Manuel Gamez-Garcia, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 99-107 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The formation of various colloidal structures and accompanying cationic polymer deposition during the application, foaming and rising of various model conditioning shampoos were analyzed. When the shampoos were applied to hair at a 1 to 10 dilution they frequently gave rise to the formation of coacervates or precipitates. During the lathering, the coacervates along with their cophases, were fully converted into foams. In the course of the rinsing step, foam dilution gave rise to the formation of aggregates which adsorbed onto the hair surface. Substantivity analyses demonstrated that polycation adsorption onto the hair surface during the application step is strongly dependent on whether or not a coacervate or precipitate is formed. The high substantivities characteristics of the coacervates, persisted during the foaming step. It was found that the coacervates in conjunction with their cophases partition within the foam between the walls of the foam lamella ("crust") and the lamellar liquid ("core"). Precipitates and other insoluble particles present in the shampoo were also seen to partition. The preferential partitioning or adsorption of coacervates onto the foam "crust" was found to depend on their surface activity while that of the insoluble particles was contingent on their contact angle. The results suggest that during shampoo rising the foam lamella reaches a critical dilution concentration at which polycations and insoluble particles flocculate giving rise to the formation of heterogeneous aggregates which adsorb onto the hair surface. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10738
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