Increase in subjective well-being and psychological health after application of C8-silk lipoamino acid functionalized pigments included in a foundation / Magalie Cabannes in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 489-195 Titre : Increase in subjective well-being and psychological health after application of C8-silk lipoamino acid functionalized pigments included in a foundation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Magalie Cabannes, Auteur ; C. Risselada, Auteur ; I. Chaisemartin, Auteur ; J. Pasquet, Auteur ; E. Couval, Auteur ; Jean-Yves Berthon, Auteur ; Edith Filaire, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 489-195 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cortisol Estime de soi Lipoaminoacides Les lipoaminoacides sont une partie de la famille des lipopeptides avec en présence un ou plusieurs acides aminés différents. Il existe 20 acides aminés naturels regroupés en fonction de la nature de leur chaîne latérale : non polaire neutre (alanine, phénylalanine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, méthionine, valine, tryptophane,…), polaire basique (arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, citrulline), et polaire acide (acide glutamique et acide aspartique). Les acides aminés peuvent être soit des acides aminés purs, soit des acides aminés provenant de l'hydrolyse totale des protéines tels le collagène, la caséine, l'élastine, la kératine. La partie lipidique des lipoaminoacides est composée d'une ou de plusieurs chaines grasses avec pour origine divers acides gras. Maquillage Pigments Statistique Stress Tests psychologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of two foundations before (D0) and after 5 days of application (D6) on psychophysiological parameters in order to compare C8-silk lipoamino acid functionalized pigments (FA) versus pure pigments (FP). - Methods : Assessment of self-esteem, stress, mood and emotion using psychological tests and evaluation of salivary cortisol concentrations were realized on 40 healthy females using a crossover study design at D0 and D6. Four saliva samples were taken on the awakening (C1), 30 min after the awakening (during the foundation application (C2)), 1 h after the foundation application (C3) and at 1900 h (C4) at DO and D6. Area under the curve was calculated in order to obtain information about the total amount of a given substance excreted in a specific time period. - Results : Five days of daily application of the foundation containing the pigments treated with the C8-silk lipoamino acids induced a significant increase (P < 0.001) in self-esteem and pleasant emotion (P < 0.05), and a significant decrease in general stress (P < 0.05). This was not the case after the FP application. Cortisol concentrations presented a pronounced diurnal rhythm whatever the foundation used. At DO, no significant differences were observed between the groups. At D6, cortisol concentrations measured 30 min and 1 h after the FA application were significantly lower (P < 0.05: C6.2, P < 0.05 C6.3, respectively) than those reported after FP application. AUC, a global stress response indicator, was significantly lower in FA group as compared to FP group after 5 days of application. Subjects found a decrease in tiredness signs and thought that FA has a good coverage. - Conclusion : Our results show that incorporation of C8-silk lipoamino acid as agent of pigment functionalization brings new benefits to a foundation. Adopting a psychophysiological approach, which is not invasive to the subjects, we show the measurement of cortisol at the same time that psychological indicators provide a scientific approach to examine the beneficial effects of a cosmetic product. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Foundation composition - Psychological parameters - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Salivary parameters - Psychological parameters Indice de classement : 10.1111/ics.12566 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/112YUFrmVka2wYp5CBk1b-7NQ0uBcy-nF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33225 [article]

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Latest skin care developments analysed / Daniel Whitby in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 4, N° 4 (11/2011)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 4, N° 4 (11/2011) . - p. 81-83 Titre : Latest skin care developments analysed Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Daniel Whitby, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : p. 81-83 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Apparence individuelle Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Hormones Peau -- Soins et hygiène Saisonnalité Stress Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Traditionally skin care products were relatively simple vehicles designed to deliver moisture to the skin and overcome dryness. Claims were few and far between and the ingredients functional but basic. As time has progressed our understanding of the skin's structure has improved dramatically opening new doors for targeted skin care products delivering real benefits and treating consumer needs. Modem skin care products not only address specific skin issues such as hydration, sebum control, minimising pores, etc., but may also be aimed at specific age groups, for instance. Alongside the development of intricate formulations we have also developed methods and techniques for quantifying the changes and improvements modem products have upon the skin, allowing strong claims to be made and to be backed up with robust scientific data. Today's skin care products are complex formulations containing a multitude of advanced ingredients and making increasingly complex claims. The aim of this article is to review some of the newer avenues being explored in skin care and detail some of the related scientific literature which underpins them. Note de contenu : - Appearance - Seasonality - Stress - Hormones En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m5ytsQ3pzTDlPAFtAju7FNMZ5R7Se7JJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40980 [article]

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