Emollients and Emulsifiers Exert their Sensory Impact in Different Phases of the Sensory Evaluation Process but How Does One Demonstrate the Absence of such an Influence? / Johann W. Wiechers in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002) . - p. 99-105 Titre : Emollients and Emulsifiers Exert their Sensory Impact in Different Phases of the Sensory Evaluation Process but How Does One Demonstrate the Absence of such an Influence? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Johann W. Wiechers, Auteur ; Marie-Claire Taelman, Auteur ; Vincent A. L. Wortel, Auteur ; Cock Verboom, Auteur ; J. Chris Dederen, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 99-105 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Skin  sensory  research'  Emulsifier  'Cosmetic  ingredient'  Formulations  'Principal  component  analysis' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Whereas most experimental procedures in science are typically geared to show the presence or existence of objects or phenomena, showing the lack of presence, i.e. absence, of something is a lot more complicated, in particular if it cannot be seen. In order to demonstrate that a new emulsifier system did not impact the skin feel of a formulation in which it was incorporated, various formulations only differing in the emulsifier were made and their skin feel was compared using descriptive analysis. Paired comparisons were used to maximize the chance of measuring a difference. Clear differences were detected between the formulations in the early phases of the sensory evaluation process, demonstrating that emulsifiers in general do contribute to skin feel and to different degrees. The only remaining question was "what is no influence?" Therefore, the formulations were compared with the neat oils, but the differences were found to be dramatic for all comparisons. When comparing formulations that only differed in their emollients, it could be shown that the formulations containing the new emulsifier were able to maintain small differences in skin feel that were also obsrved for the neat oils whereas the other emulsifier systems failed to maintain these differences or introduced new ones. The results also clearly demonstreted that while emulsifiers affect the skin feel in the early phases of sensory evaluation (appearance, pick-up and run-out), emollients exert their sensory impact predominantly during the after-feel of a cosmetic formulation. It was conclued that despite the practical experience that the new emulsifier did not contribute to skin feel, it is impossible to show this due to the lack of a true reference that represents no skin effect. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10652 [article]

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Molecular modeling of personal care ingredients to create specific skin sensory characteristics / Johann W. Wiechers in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001) . - p. 171-177 Titre : Molecular modeling of personal care ingredients to create specific skin sensory characteristics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Johann W. Wiechers, Auteur ; Cock Verboom, Auteur ; Wim A. J. Starmans, Auteur ; Vincent A. L. Wortel, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 171-177 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Résumé : Objective : In order to explore the existence of a relationship between the molecular structure of a personal care ingredient and its skin performance, we applied molecular modeling techniques to data obtained in skin sensory studies. Methods : Expert panels evaluated 29 personal care ingredients, which were described using 31 sensory characteristics ( attributes). Principal Component Analysis (PCA) was performed on the sensory results. This revealed which attributes were correlated and the amount of variance within the data set for each attribute. Attributes containing minor variance were removed. Subsequently, a subset of six different relevant attributes, representing different classes of sensory feelings, was selected : Adsorbency, Coating,Oily, Shiny and Thickness. Approximately 80 two-dimensional molecular descriptors, representing e.g length, branching and polarity of the ingredients, were calculated. Again, uninformative molecular descriptors were eliminated. Partial Least Squares regression PLS betzeen sensory attributes and molecular descriptors yielded a model for the six attributes. Results Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10718 [article]

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