Factors influencing skin moisturization signal using near-infrared spectroscopy / Johann W. Wiechers in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003) . - p. 19-26 Titre : Factors influencing skin moisturization signal using near-infrared spectroscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Johann W. Wiechers, Auteur ; Marchel Snieder, Auteur ; Nico A. G. Dekker, Auteur ; Wei G. Hansen, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 19-26 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Hygrométrie Peau -- Anatomie et histologie Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Spectroscopie infrarouge proche Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The effectiveness of skin moisturizers can be measured by electrical and spectroscopic methods. We explored the benefits of near infrared (NIR) spectroscopy for the investigation of skin moisturization. This technique provides information on the interaction of water molecules with its surrounding structures and has been used to identify whether the water is freely moving, loosely or tightly bound. We first assessed the penetration depth of NIR radiation and found it to go as deep as the dermis. Using second-derivative spectra, the presence of the various water peaks, representing the different forms of water were identified and we derived a "total water" parameter from this. We used this parameter to study the influence of anatomical site, gender and age volunteer, emotional status of the subject and effect of smoking and relative humidity on the occurrence, abundance and type of water. The anatomical site certainly contributed to the overall variability in signal, as did gender, age and smoking. Care had to be taken near blood vessels as blood components could interfere with the signal, as well as the location of the measuring spot. Whereas the gender of volunteers could be easily detected in a spectrum, possibly based on the sex hormones in their blood, we also noted that females had more water in their skin than males. As with superficial water, the deeper water content decreased with age. Smoking also negatively influenced the water content of the skin: smoking aged the skin by about 15 years in terms of its water content. We conclude that NIR is an interesting new technology that may yield more fundamental insight into the process of skin moisturization, especially when combined with other techniques. However, volunteers need to be very carefully selected, as without this, differences between subjects will obscure the effects of moisturizing ingredients. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10612 [article]

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