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What makes a personal care company successful ? / Murray Hunter in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 14-17 Titre : What makes a personal care company successful ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Murray Hunter, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 14-17 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Commerce Cosmétique -- Industrie et commerce Cosmétiques -- Marketing Études de marché -- Méthodologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Any business is complex and there are indeed so many factors that contribute to any success. Likewise there are so many factors and miscalculations that can lead to failure. These could be basic business mistakes about holding excessive inventory or strategic issues like selecting market categories that don't have enough potential customers to make an enterprise viable — a trap many SMEs fall into. A successful personal care company is about products, channels, networks, image, narrative, promotion, competitors, and intrinsically understanding the nature of the consumer you strive to serve. One must think in a holistic way, but also be focused upon all the detail and create and develop the right products, develop the right image and channels, and answer four important questions satisfactorily for maximum success: - What is the central theme of your product ? - Are there enough customers ? - What channels do you need to go through to reach your potential customer ? - How much competition will you face ? The human race has sent men to the moon, cured many diseases, mapped the human genome and descended to the deepest depths of the world's oceans, but nobody can be really too sure about the reasons why one business is successful and another business is a complete failure. What really makes a shampoo, fragrance, or spa a success ? People who say they know are really guessing. We can only really tell what the next big thing is when it becomes the next big thing. However we know that the reason for a business success is based on very tight, but not necessarily apparent factors, of which the successful entrepreneur may not even understand. Who can tell exactly why Lady Gaga is a success ? You can give me a number of reasons but cannot tell me which ones are most important. If you could predict the future hits with any certainty — no doubt your already a multi-billionaire and not reading this. Business success is about the future and there is no way to predict the future accurately. So any new business is developed along the lines of trying something to see if it works, and then keep doing that thing if it actually worked. Success does not come from beautiful business plans, it comes from experimenting until, suddenly, you have got it. Then you have your own magic formula that works only for you and your situation. There is a unique and hidden success formula waiting for you to find in your business. You may stumble upon it very quickly or never find it at all. There are plenty of business books out there with the 10 rules, habits, or points that claim to lead to success. The factors mentioned may exist but not necessarily be the true reasons behind your success. Having a lucky charm may have just as much influence over the matter. Note de contenu : - The concept of success - Some of the characteristics of success - Capabilities and competencies - Make and buy - some considerations - Create barriers to entry for potential competitors - Recognise what is you IP and use it well - Stay close to the knitting - Importance of the founder En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14cxEhObDB_sEqRt_YC2sEPXcCDAXdufr/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21094 [article]

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Washing and bathing market update / Lauren Kempen in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 26-28 Titre : Washing and bathing market update Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lauren Kempen, Auteur ; Daniel Whitby, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 26-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques -- Innovations Hygiène Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits nettoyants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The washing sector of the personal care market is often viewed as an area lacking in innovation and exciting new product launches. However, during frugal times consumers will often treat themselves to a luxurious bath soak to wash away the daily stresses we all encounter. Also, it is an area in part driven by regulatory issues such as changes in the choice of preservatives available and by marketing claims such as sulfate free and mildness. In the following article I will delve into this sector in an attempt to show that innovation is alive, that there have been some fantastic new launches and, as with the other personal care sectors such as skin care, products and technologies are progressing all the time. Note de contenu : - Shower products - Bath products - Baby - Men - Hair - Two future trends En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LUAiD7NXg0XOs473TxSdu6YMaHInjwLn/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21095 [article]

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Rejuvenating effect of snow algae analysed / Daniel Schmid in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 31-34 Titre : Rejuvenating effect of snow algae analysed Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Esther Belser, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 31-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues unicellulaires Antiâge:Antirides Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Snow algae powder is a novel anti-ageing ingredient based on an extract of biotechnologically produced snow algae. In cell culture assays, the snow algae extract was found to induce a calorie restriction-mimetic effect by stimulating the expression of the Klotho gene and the activity of the AMPK protein. The extract reduced the loss in collagen expression in aged fibroblasts and counteracted the increase in matrix metalloproteinases in senescent fibroblasts. In clinical studies, the snow algae powder was shown to improve the papillary structure of the dermal epidermal junction, significantly enhanced skin hydration and smoothed crow's feet wrinkles. Note de contenu : - Stimulation of the longevity gene Klotho - Activation of the master switch AMPK - Stimulation of collagen production and inhibition of its breakdown - Improvement of the papillary structure - Improvement of skin hydration and smoothing of eye wrinkles En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XhCIZB2VAkSKwQ5RJSr972q4VqvHrXe3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21096 [article]

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Plant stem cells as cosmetic active ingredients / Julien Fouilland in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 37-39 Titre : Plant stem cells as cosmetic active ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julien Fouilland, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 37-39 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cellules souches Cellules végétales Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Plantes -- Emploi en cosmétologie Plantes marines Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When it comes to active ingredients, there are only two ways to go : either the molecule is from synthesis ; or it has a natural source. More than a trend in today's cosmetic industry, natural actives have become a necessity. Therefore, sources of natural actives and natural molecules are a key field of research. In the 1990s, about 80% of the known natural products were from plant origin. 'More specifically, each year, a large proportion of newly described molecular structures are from higher plants. BiotechMarine, a subsidiary of Seppic, is specialised in hi-tech bioactive natural substances, extracted from seaweeds and marine plants. It proposes to cosmetics laboratories a wide range of 80 active ingredients, extracts and stem cells for personal care. Established in France on the northern coast of Brittany in 1988, its expertise in the world of top marine active ingredients and cutaneous engineering is recognised around the world. For 25 years, BiotechMarine's values remain innovation, safety, efficiency, sustainable development and respect of the biodiversity. BiotechMarine started developing actives from marine plants stem cells 10 years ago. It was one of the first companies to offer such products in the cosmetic industry, first with cellulosome Crithmum maritimum, followed by cellulosome Eryngium maritimum. These actives are 100% pure lyophilised stem cells, ensuring maximum bio-availability of the natural active molecules. This bio-availability has led to strong biological activities, such as the improvement of dermal repair, epidermal regeneration, and epidermal barrier repairing, as shown in the studies published by Lequeux et al.2 and by Caucanas et a1.3 Christiane Montastier, renowned pharmacologist, says: "For me, actives based on lyophilised plant stem cells are the future of cosmetic ingredients." Note de contenu : - Why use stem cells as a cosmetic active ? - What are plant stem cells ? - How to go from plant stem cells to an industrial active ? En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FqJ_5OZ3ZA4VLccEYJnVkRqOFeoDK5xP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21097 [article]

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Searching for youth in marine environments / Marta Rull in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 41-44 Titre : Searching for youth in marine environments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marta Rull, Auteur ; Cristina Davi, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Albert Soley, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 41-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Biomolécules actives Biotechnologie marine Cosmétiques Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A healthy and young appearance is nowadays a common wish, as is protecting and respecting nature while achieving it. Marine biotechnology offers the possibility to accomplish both objectives by using aquatic sources to develop effective and specific active ingredients for skin care concerns. Note de contenu : - Unique molecules in unique habitats - Facial changes while ageing - Protection and repair from Antartica - HA alternative from intertidal shores - Wrinkles filler from estuaries - Attenuation of lipstick lines En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZKms3chjMtsCQ6_RSmh1N7_Q1hWPw2W-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21098 [article]

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Collaboration delivers novel green emulsifier / Andrea Mitarotonda in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 47-52 Titre : Collaboration delivers novel green emulsifier Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andrea Mitarotonda, Auteur ; Lucy Koch, Auteur ; Frances Johnson, Auteur ; François Courbès, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 47-52 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques Centrifugation Colloides Emulsifiants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Rhéométrie Taille des particules Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The natural and organic cosmetic market has been steadily growing in the past few years and according to market research this trend will continue for many years to come. This is a major driving force for both the raw material industry and for cosmetic manufacturers : this article shows that joining forces resulted in the creation of a novel palm-free emulsifier that has the prerequisites to be organic certified. The use of basic colloid chemistry techniques, such as particle size analysis, steady state and oscillatory rheometry, has proven it to be superior when compared to benchmarks, both ethoxylated and naturally-derived. Hydration properties of the novel emulsifier were clinically tested and a full factorial experimental design coupled with microscopy and image analysis was used to investigate liquid crystal formation characteristics. Note de contenu : - The choice of raw materials - Material and methods - Skin hydration - Particle size analysis - Centrifugation - Steady state rheometry - Oscillatory rheometry - Investigation into liquid crystal formation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MdV2Onol-OPhIg92UVHkhWxFV6xL1RSa/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21108 [article]

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Ingredients focus : fragrance technology / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 54-56 Titre : Ingredients focus : fragrance technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 54-56 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Biomolécules actives Conservateurs (chimie) Fixateurs (chimie) Jojoba et constituants Parfums Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fragrance is a vital aspect to personal care products. The scent can transmit a sense of geography, luxuriousness, gender, mood as well as provide a signature fragrance that can act to enhance a brand. However, new technology is starting to become an integral part of formulating with fragrances. As regulations tighten on the use of preservatives, more formulators are looking to use multifunctional fragrance ingredients that can also offer a level of preservation. Other ingredients offer fixative benefits to ensure long-lasting fragrance, while others mask the odour of other ingredients. This round-up of current ingredients to aid formulating with fragrances aims to give formulators a helping hand through an area which can sometimes prove troublesome (particularly with natural fragrances) though equally can be highly rewarding. Note de contenu : - Antimicrobial - Fixative - Scent - Testing - Actives En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LLSsrwnxw-plsOJunH3lDnqEtUIq_lVz/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21109 [article]

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Creating natural fragrances : techniques and processes / Jennifer Bell in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 59-62 Titre : Creating natural fragrances : techniques and processes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer Bell, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 59-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Formulation (Génie chimique) Parfums Produits naturels Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Natural fragrance plays a key rote in the overall evaluation and experience of a product as it helps create associations and emotional connections to a brand and hopefully keeps our customers loyal. Demand, including demand for natural fragrance blends, essential oils and natural extracts is expected. Market research indicates that across all markets, increasing consumer interest in natural products will drive value demand going forward, as these natural fragrance ingredients tend to be more expensive and consumers have become more conscious of the ingredients in their products. For businesses across many sectors, getting their natural fragrances right could mean the sweet smell of success. Note de contenu : - DEVELOPING A NATURAL FRAGRANCE - FRAGRANCE FAMILIES : Aromatic - Citrus - Oriental - Chypre - Woody - Floral - Leather - THE THREE 'NOTES' - THE CARRIER - STABILITY - Formulation 1 : Chypre - Formulation 2 : Citrus - Formulation 3 : Floral - SAFETY En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AksGaBxZ40kMUe5TphnArWVbsQbkhtD9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21110 [article]

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Stabilising retinol in skin care formulations / Gary Neudahl in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 65-68 Titre : Stabilising retinol in skin care formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gary Neudahl, Auteur ; Jean Zhang, Auteur ; Robert Hu, Auteur ; Steffen Jockusch, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 65-68 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Stabilisants (chimie) Stabilité thermique Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xqM1h4BEKrTI9pVha4OWoDeP9LexbhXc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21111 [article]

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Measurement and understanding of TEWL / Diana Khazaka in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 70-72 Titre : Measurement and understanding of TEWL Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Diana Khazaka, Auteur ; Christiane Uhl, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 70-72 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Mesure Perte insensible en eau Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - Measuring of TEWL - Guidelines for TEWL measurement - Special applications - New trends : TEWL in vitro measurement - Reduction in measuring time - OSAAD software En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mn-eg3qdWSnnE5J6SmkEAsAfybWTzRkP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21112 [article]

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Substantiating product efficacy claims / Emanuela Elia in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 74-75 Titre : Substantiating product efficacy claims Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emanuela Elia, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 74-75 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Certification Consommateurs -- Protection Cosmétique -- Industrie et commerce Cosmétiques Evaluation Prise de décision Qualité -- Contrôle Recherche industrielle Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This paper will explore the challenges faced by product developers and marketers in Australia to confirm and present claims of efficacy for cosmetic products. Proven product efficacy is a major competitive advantage together with sensory attributes, promotion and packaging. Two factors that most affect efficacy claims are regulatory compliance and consumer protection and their impact on current and potential clients. Substantiation of efficacy claims is an important aspect of product development that cosmetic and personal care companies need to address correctly. We will discuss various aspects of the decision-making process faced by companies selling cosmetic products locally or internationally, aiming to identify a number of different approaches to claims of efficacy. We will consider the different levels of supporting evidence required, whether the evidence requires testing and what quality of evidence can be generated to support claims, while maintaining emphasis on consumer perception. Note de contenu : - Cosmetic claims - Compliance - Consumer protection - Claim support - Marketer's perspective - Global strategy En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FFK5LA1ejrc1oD-91eAbhuOTOAzOo-6g/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21113 [article]

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Digital photography for cosmetic efficacy studies / Fabrice Perin in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 77-79 Titre : Digital photography for cosmetic efficacy studies Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fabrice Perin, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 77-79 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Etudes cliniques Photographie numérique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : 'One picture is worth more than a thousand words' is a popular saying which appeared in the 20th century, resembling an earlier quote from the Russian writer Ivan Turgenev in his book Fathers and Sons: "A picture shows me at a glance what it takes dozens of pages of a book to expound." Since the skin is the only human organ fully accessible to visual examination, it explains why photography has become so widely used in dermatology firstly, and then in cosmetology. In the past ten years, all the domains of digital imaging technology have considerably improved : photograph acquisition, image processing, easiness of storage, teleconsultations. Photography is of utmost importance to cosmetology because it allows looking at visible changes of skin characteristics. Despite the fact that digital cameras are owned by an incredibly large number of people, some important photographic principles are relatively poorly understood by many when it comes to professional utilisation of images. Because digital pictures can easily be manipulated, it is therefore essential for the public to know the basics of photographic methods used to demonstrate and support cosmetic claims, and for professionais to grasp that photographic tests must be carried out in the same way as scientific measurements. As a consequence, traceability, reproducibility, repeatability, and calibration are concepts which also totally apply to photographic methods. The knowledge of the key factors influencing the quality of one picture and the validity of its analysis should allow the development of critical thinking when looking at photographs acquired during clinical studies or at quantitative/qualitative information extracted from them. Note de contenu : - Focus on lighting - Understanding camera settings - positioning En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BE96za3ogwjt6lS9656ROO_oU2WDzm2E/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21114 [article]

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Plant extracts combination lifts the upper eyelid / Philippe Mondon in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 81-84 Titre : Plant extracts combination lifts the upper eyelid Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Mondon, Auteur ; Emmanuel Doridot, Auteur ; Caroline Ringenbach, Auteur ; Olga Gracioso, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 81-84 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Etudes cliniques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Paupières Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Blepharoplasty (plastic surgery on the eyelids) is the third most practiced form of plastic surgery, after liposuction and breast augmentation, in the world. Each year, around 250,000 people undergo this type of intervention. Beauty of the eye area is therefore the subject of great concern. It can be affected by wrinkles, bags and dark circles, but also sagging of the upper eyelid. Indeed, the alteration of the skin around the eye leads to a sagging of the skin of the eyelid and the formation of a fold similar to a wrinkle. This permanent fold is often unwelcomed by women as, besides its unattractive appearance, it makes both the application of makeup and the hold of makeup applied to the eyelid difficult. Still worse, ptosis of the eyelid leads to upper mobilisation of the muscles of the forehead when looking up and this leads to a temporary and then permanent increase in the wrinkles on the forehead.' For the first time in the history of cosmetic actives, Sederma laboratories have developed an ingredient capable of embellishing the overall eye area and targeting specifically drooping eyelids. We will show here how this cosmetic active of natural origin commercially named Beautifeye works and why it has been recognised with the Best New Ingredient Award received during the last C&T R&D Awards Asia in October 2013. Note de contenu : - TREATING THE GLOBAL CONTOUR OF THE EYE - NATURAL ACTIVE FIGHTS AGAINST GLYCATION PHENOMENA AND STRENGTHENING DERMAL STRUCTURES : Collagen and elastin synthesis - Protection of elastin against glycation - Reduction in the production of MMP-2 - FIGHTING AGAINST GLYCATION PHENOMENA : Improvement of contractile capacity - Maintenance of glyoxalase-1 - CLINICAL STUDIES : A VISIBLE LIFTING OF THE UPPER EYELID En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k7iR3LusQ-_eyOsct-cFJN1oDTkqpWP8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21115 [article]

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Antimicrobial efficiency boost via chelating agents / Wolfgang Siegert in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 87-90 Titre : Antimicrobial efficiency boost via chelating agents Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Wolfgang Siegert, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 87-90 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Chélates Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Tests Formulation (Génie chimique) Tests d'efficacité Tétrasodium glutamate diacétate Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The continuing discussion of cosmetic preservatives has limited the number of accepted actives that can be practically used. As a result, a number of different methods and materials are being used to boost the activity of the remaining acceptable substances for microbial stabilisation. Increasing the permeability of microbial cells to biocides by EDTA helps to optimise the stabilisation. To avoid the environmental discussion about chelating agents, readily biodegradable alternatives to EDTA are indispensable. The antimicrobial stabilisation of multifunctional additives in combination with chelating agents were tested in different cosmetic formulations. The readily biodegradable chelating agent tetrasodium glutamate diacetate shows good performance in reducing the use concentration of sensiva SC 10, sensiva PA 20, sensiva PA 30 and sensiva PA 40 to pass antimicrobial effectiveness testing. Note de contenu : - The use of chelating agents in cosmetics - Commonly used chelating agents - Trends in using chelating agents - Boosting preservatives : mode of action - Influence of pH on the preservative boosting effect - Tests with frame formulations - The schülke KoKo Test - The schülke FeuTuKo Test - Formulation 1 : PEG-free emulsion for baby wipes (O/W) - Formulation 2 : Natural O/W cream - Formulation 3 : Cosmetic wipes - Self-preserving En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19uHgnBC9HnW_vy4kr2ganNfRNKf6U6B8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21116 [article]

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Raft copolymers : solutions for challenging problems / Matthias Haeussler in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 93-95 Titre : Raft copolymers : solutions for challenging problems Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Matthias Haeussler, Auteur ; Raju Adhikari, Auteur ; John Chiefari, Auteur ; Graeme Moad, Auteur ; Ezio Rizzardo, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 93-95 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Copolymères Cosmétiques Polymérisation par transfert de chaîne réversible par addition fragmentation La polymérisation radicalaire contrôlée par transfert de chaîne réversible par addition-fragmentation (en anglais Reversible Addition-Fragmentation Chain Transfer (RAFT)) est une technique de polymérisation radicalaire contrôlée. Au même titre que la polymérisation radicalaire contrôlée par transfert d'atome (en anglais Atom Transfert Radical Polymerization (ATRP)) et la polymérisation radicalaire en présence de nitroxydes (en anglais Nitroxide Mediated Polymerization (NMP)), la polymérisation de type RAFT permet de synthétiser des polymères d'architecture contrôlée (polymères à blocs, étoiles, peignes, etc) de faible polydispersité et de haute fonctionnalité. Les applications de ces polymères sont, parmi d'autres, l'encapsulation de principes actifs de médicaments, la production de revêtements et peintures de nouvelles génération, la microfluidique, les tensioactifs, les adhésifs et les membranes. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cosmetics and personal care formulations typically comprise a wide range of ingredients required to fulfill various functional roles. Combining these, often very different, ingredients into a stable formulation without sacrificing their respective functionalities is an ongoing challenge for the cosmetic industry. Recent advances in the field of reversible-deactivation radical polymerisation (RDRP — more commonly referred to as living radical polymerisation or controlled radical polymerisation)' have provided novel polymers through unprecedented control over the composition, functionality and architecture of polymers. These methodologies are currently being applied to meet the demands imposed. This contribution highlights the attributes of the RAFT (reversible addition-fragmentation chain transfer) process2 as ground breaking in this context and arguably the most versatile of the RDRP methods.3-9 Polymers made by RAFT polymerisation provide the cosmetic chemist and formulator the right materials for solutions which are both simpler to implement and more effective than conventional alternatives. Note de contenu : - Current state of technology - The RAFT process - Commercial availability of RAFT agents - Colour and odour removal - Table 1 : Widely used polymers obtained from conventional radical polymerization - Table 2 : Patents on application of RAFT polymerisation in the cosmetics industry En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XpJVbEhH0cuU1kB4sVLIxjUftoJ-uhUE/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21117 [article]

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Functional and sustainable emollient esters for shea / Ann-Charlotte Anderson in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 99-101 Titre : Functional and sustainable emollient esters for shea Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ann-Charlotte Anderson, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 99-101 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Beurre de karité Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cires Cosmétiques Emollients Esters Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Modem personal care formulations are increasingly demanding and formulators expect more from their ingredients. Safe and renewable emollient shea butter esters can provide flexibility, functionality and problem solving in skin and hair care formulation. Sensory analysis and evaluation demonstrates how they can do this as alternatives to or in combination with other ingredients. Note de contenu : - HIGH-PERFORMANCE EMOLLIENTS : Favourable viscosity and surface properties - Easy to emulsify and formulate - Valuable pigment wetting properties - NEW TOOLS FOR SKIN AND HAIR FORMULATIONS : Sensory properties - Hair care properties - REDUCING ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF FORMULATIONS : Light sensory properties for skin - Natural choice for hair care - GUIDE FORMULATIONS - Formulation 1 : Nourishing hair serum - Formulation 2 : Eye care cream - Formulation 3 : Mist body care emulsion En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ME2EBL-xQsrE-IbhRZaHAzo1gloLFnTs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21118 [article]

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Intense moisturising power restores skin balance / Anna Maria Motta in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 103-105 Titre : Intense moisturising power restores skin balance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Maria Motta, Auteur ; Robin Variati, Auteur ; Marcel Langenauer, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 103-105 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cornéométrie Cosmétiques Etude in vivo Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The transport of water and solutes in a highly organised structure such as the skin plays an essential role in maintaining its homeostasis and a healthy appearance. Skin moisturisation involves the entire skin structure through active and passive mechanisms. The horny layer acts as a defensive barrier, limiting an excessive evaporation of water (TEWL), while the presence of specific channels and the natural moisturising factor (NMF) retains the water and transports it through the multi-layered skin structure. Hydrovege is a synergetic blend of moisturising humectants and swelling ingredients specifically aimed to correct skin dryness, particularly recommended whenever an intense and immediate restoring action is needed.1-2 lt was developed by taking into account the normal constituents of a healthy skin, in order to propose a cosmetic raw material that has characteristics very similar to the NME Corneometric tests and innovative in vitro studies conducted on biological models of reconstructed skin prove the effectiveness of Hydroveg in restoring stressed skie' to the condition of physiological balance with a mechanism that is active at the molecular level. Note de contenu : - COMPOSITION - EFFICACY : In vitro skin dryness model : moisturising effect active on molecular level - In vivo corneometric test : immediate and high moisturizing power - APPLICATIONS - Formulation 1 : Body care lotion - Formulation 2 : Mild shower gel En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1abWGmvmBxWVeQyprYKD7acRVQNLEBwsx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21119 [article]

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Superforming hair conditioning emulsion / Pornsak Raopattananon in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 106-111 Titre : Superforming hair conditioning emulsion Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pornsak Raopattananon, Auteur ; Judy Zhu, Auteur ; Pornpan Singhapantu, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 106-111 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Conditionneurs (cosmétique) Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Polydiméthylsiloxane Le polydiméthylsiloxane —[O-Si(CH3)2]n—, ou poly(diméthylsiloxane) selon la nomenclature systématique, communément appelé PDMS ou diméthicone, est un polymère organominéral de la famille des siloxanes souvent présent dans les shampoings. On l'y ajoute pour augmenter le volume des cheveux mais il peut également aller boucher les pores du cuir chevelu et rendre les cheveux gras. C'est une des raisons pour lesquelles se laver les cheveux tous les jours est très déconseillé avec un shampooing contenant des silicones. Il existe également de l'amodiméthicone, qui est un dérivé du diméthicone. Le polydiméthylsiloxane est un additif alimentaire (E900), utilisé comme antimoussant dans les boissons (Coca-Cola BlāK). La chaîne de poly(diméthylsiloxane) forme également la structure de base des huiles et des caoutchoucs silicones. Polymères cationiques shampooings Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dimethicone (and) amodimethicone emulsion (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Laureth-23 (and) Polyquaternium-10 (and) Laureth-4 Emulsion) can provide versatile benefits on conditioning (ease of combing) for wet and dry conditions including sensory benefits better than dimethicone or amodimethicone materials alone in both shampoos and conditioners. It could enhance colour protection and hair volumising benefits as well. Moreover it could perform in synergy with cationic polymers such as guar gum and polyquaternium by enhancing the conditioning (ease of combing) and sensory benefits in shampoo. The suitable combination of three kinds of conditioning agents (dimethicone, amodimethicone and polyquaternium-10) forms an emulsion format with unique technology to make a uniform and narrow particle distribution of emulsion. therefore, dimethicone (and) amodimethicone (and) laureth-23 (and) polyquaternium-10 (and) laureth-4 emulsion is an excellent conditioning agent that performs as the super performing conditioning material for hair care applications. Note de contenu : - Comparison of performance of variety silicone types in emulsion format in shampoo application - Comparison of varying percentage of silicone emulsions in shampoo applications - Comparison between completely blended dimetichone (and) amodimethicone in emulsion format with separately mixed dimethicone emulsion and amino silicone emulsion - Impact and/or synergy of cationic polymer with silicone emulsion in shampoo application - Colour protection benefit from dimethicone (and) amodimethicone emulsion in shampoo application - Comparison of hair volumising benefit of silicone emulsion and other cationic polymers in shampoo application - Comparison of dimethicone (and) amodimethicone emulsion with amodimethicone emulsion in rinse-off conditioner - Dimethicone (and) amodimethicone emulsion benefit in variety types of hair care application - shampoo & rinse-off conditioner - Formulation 1 : Shampoo base formulation - Formulation 2 : Shampoo base - Formulation 3 : Colour protection benefit from dimethicone (and) amodimethicone emulsion in shampoo application - Formulation 4 : Comparison of dimethicone (and) amodimethicone emulsion with amodimethicone emulsion in rinse-off conditioner - Formulation 5 : Shampoo prototype : moisturizing shampoo with dimethicone (and) amodimethicone emulsion - Formulation 6 : Conditioner prototype : refreshing rinse conditioner with dimethicone (and) amodimethicone emulsion En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p1tDATGhAowRSAtKi5q7TMkBQJkUuTs1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21120 [article]

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Rapid anticholinergic effect on skin relaxation / Giancarlo Guglielmini in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (04/2014) . - p. 114-115 Titre : Rapid anticholinergic effect on skin relaxation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Giancarlo Guglielmini, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 114-115 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Anticholinergique Un agent anticholinergique est une substance appartenant à une classe pharmacologique de composés qui servent à réduire les effets où l'acétylcholine joue le rôle de neuromédiateur dans le système nerveux central et le système nerveux périphérique. L'acétylcholine étant le principal neuromédiateur du système nerveux parasympathique, son blocage entraîne une augmentation du tonus sympathique. Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The enzyme acetylcholinesterase is found to be present in the synapses between nerve cells and muscle cells. When a motor neuron receives signals from the brain and spinal cord, it releases acetylcholine and causes muscle contractions. Acetylcholinesterase converts acetylcholine in an inactive product, choline. An increase of the enzyme activity in the presence of acetylcholine, leads to an increase in the amount of choline and muscle relaxation. The evidenced enzymatic effect results in a relaxation of facial skin muscles, which means having smoother and less tense skin with a significant influence on skin roughness and ageing. In fact, when applied topically, the product can reduce the tonic contraction of the facial muscles responsible for the appearance of expression lines. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pyHL0Js98u8hcSOKymCQQBwHeHWiHy49/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=21121 [article]

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