A novel non-invasive evaluation method of cornified envelope maturation in the stratum corneum provides a new insight for skin care cosmetics / Tetsuji Hirao in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003) . - p. 103-109 Titre : A novel non-invasive evaluation method of cornified envelope maturation in the stratum corneum provides a new insight for skin care cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tetsuji Hirao, Auteur ; Motoji Takahashi, Auteur ; Katsuko Kikuchi, Auteur ; Tadashi Terui, Auteur ; Hachiro Tagami, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 103-109 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Stratum  corneum'  'Enveloppe  cornifiée'  Involucrine  Transglutaminase  'Méthode  non-invasive' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cornified envelopes, which are rigid and insoluble structures surrounding the corneocytes, are assembled by cross-linking of several precursor proteins by transglutaminases and provide the basis for barrier function of the stratum corneum. We have recently established a novel double staining method to evaluate the level of cornified envelope maturity in stratum corneum samples collected by non-invasive tape stripping, in order to examine the relationship between cornified envelope maturation and barrier function. This method is based on both loss of involucrin antigenicity and acquisition of hydrophobicity during cornified envelope maturation. We applied it to various kinds of skin and found that immature cornified envelopes were abundant not only in involved areas of inflammatory dermatoses, such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, but also in the face of healthy subjects, and were associated with impaired barrier function of the stratum corneum. The appearance of immature cornified envelope in the face was heterogeneous and was not dependent on the race or age of the subjects. Ex-vivo incubation of the outermost stratum corneum of the face in a humidified environment resulted in conversion of immature cornified envelopes to mature cornified envelopes, mediated by transglutaminases. This maturation process was inhibited under low humidity conditions and recovered on application of moisturizers to stratum corneum samples prior to the incubation. These results suggest that immature cornified envelopes in the face retain the potential ability to mature and that moisturization helps the maturation. These ex-vivo results were consistent with in-vivo findings that immature cornified envelopes in the face were increased in winter season, and that cornified envelope maturation was promoted by daily skin care treatment with a moisturizing cream. Although many studies on the stratum corneum barrier function have been carried out mainly focusing on the role of the intercellular lipids, our present studies may provide the basis for a new approach to skin care cosmetics that will promote proper assembly of the stratum corneum through promoting the maturation of cornified envelopes. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10594 [article]

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