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Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin / Carine Jacques in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)
Titre : Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Carine Jacques, Auteur ; Camille Génies, Auteur ; Daniel Bacqueville, Auteur ; Amélie Tourette, Auteur ; Nathalie Borotra, Auteur ; Fernanda Chaves, Auteur ; Fabio Sanches, Auteur ; Anne L. Gaudry, Auteur ; Sandrine Bessou-Touya, Auteur ; Hèlène Duplan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 691-702 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide ascorbique glucoside
Antioxydants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Explant de peau
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau humaine
Protection cutanée
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)
Vitamine CIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations.
- Methods : Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase.
- Results : Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions.
- Conclusion : A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Storage stability - Penetration and metabolism in viable fresh human skin explants - HPLC/UV analysis of AA and AA2G - Measurement of oxidative stress and antioxidant response - Data handling and analyses
- RESULTS : Stability of AA2G and AA in formulations - Prodrug concept: AA release in fresh viable human skin explants from AA2G - Kinetic of penetration of AA2G vs. AA formulations in fresh viable human skin explants - Antioxidant protection of AA2G in RHE modelDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12745 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jBKOIM98kz6UIcCT2A28dTue6JagkvCH/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37050
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 691-702[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Characterization and topical delivery of phenylethyl resorcinol Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Y. Zhang, Auteur ; B. C. Sil, Auteur ; C.-P. Kung, Auteur ; J. Hadgraft, Auteur ; M. Heinrich, Auteur ; B. Sinko, Auteur ; M. E. Lane, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 479-488 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation
Cuirs et peaux de porcs
Etude in vitro
Peau humaine
Phényléthyle résorcinolIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Phenylethyl resorcinol (PR) has been used widely in the personal care industry as a novel skin lightening ingredient. Surprisingly, there is only limited information describing the physicochemical properties of this active. Therefore, the primary objective of this study was to perform a comprehensive characterization of PR. A secondary objective was to investigate the delivery of this molecule to mammalian skin.
- METHODS : Phenylethyl resorcinol was characterized using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). A new high-performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method for analysis of PR was developed and validated. The log P (octanol water partition coefficient), value, solubility and short-term stability of PR in a series of vehicles were also determined using HPLC. The evaporation of the selected vehicles was examined using dynamic vapour sorption (DVS). The permeation profiles of PR were investigated under finite dose conditions in porcine and human skin.
- RESULTS : The melting point of PR was determined to be 79.13°C and the measured log P (octanol water partition coefficient) at 21 °C was 3.35 ± 0.03. The linearity of the HPLC analytical method was confirmed with an r2 value of 0.99. Accuracy of the method was evaluated by average recovery rates at three tested concentrations, and the values ranged from 99 to 106%. The limit of detection (LOD) and limit of quantification (LOQ) were 0.19 and 0.57 µg mL-1 , respectively. The solubility of PR in PG, DMI, glycerol was within the range of 367 to 877 mg mL-1 . The stability of PR in tested solvents was also confirmed by the 72 h stability studies. From the DVS studies, 70-125% of applied formulations were recovered at 24 h. The permeation through porcine skin at 24 h ranged from 4 to 13 µg cm-2 , while the corresponding amounts of PR delivered through human skin were 2 to 10 µg cm-2.
- CONCLUSION : The physicochemical properties of PR confirm it is suitable for dermal delivery. In this study, propylene glycol was the most promising vehicle for PR delivery to human skin. Future work will expand the range of vehicles studied and explore the percutaneous absorption from more complex formulations.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) - Thermal analysis - Dynamic vapour sorption studies and preparation of PR solutions - UV, HPLC analysis and method validation - The log P (octanol water partition coefficient), solubility and stability determination - In vitro permeation studies and mass balance studies - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : NMR - Thermal analysis - DVS results - UV, HPLC analysis and method validation - The log P (octanol water partition coefficient), solubility and stability determination - Permeation studiesDOI : 10.1111/ics.12565 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Me87OFDtFowEaJzTmQyrSF9j0M3NqAH7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33215
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 479-488[article]Réservation
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Titre : Friction dynamics of moisturized human skin under non-linear motion Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Yuka Sakata, Auteur ; Hiroyuki Mayama, Auteur ; Yoshimune Nonomura, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 20-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie
Frottements (mécanique)
GlycérineLe glycérol, ou glycérine, est un composé chimique de formule HOH2C–CHOH–CH2OH. C'est un liquide incolore, visqueux et inodore au goût sucré, utilisé dans de nombreuses compositions pharmaceutiques. Sa molécule possède trois hydroxyles correspondant à trois fonctions alcool responsables de sa solubilité dans l'eau et de sa nature hygroscopique. Un résidu glycérol constitue l'articulation centrale de tous les lipides de la classe des triglycérides et des phosphoglycérides.
PROPRIETES PHYSIQUES : Le glycérol se présente sous la forme d'un liquide transparent, visqueux, incolore, inodore, faiblement toxique si ingéré (mais laxatif à haute dose), au goût sucré.
Le glycérol peut se dissoudre dans les solvants polaires grâce à ses trois groupes hydroxyles. Il est miscible dans l'eau et l'éthanol ; et insoluble dans le benzène, le chloroforme et le tétrachlorométhane.
Son affinité avec l'eau le rend également hygroscopique, et du glycérol mal conservé (hors dessicateur ou mal fermé) se dilue en absorbant l'humidité de l'air.
- PROPRIETES CHIMIQUES : Dans les organismes vivants, le glycérol est un composant important des glycérides (graisses et huiles) et des phospholipides. Quand le corps utilise les graisses stockées comme source d'énergie, du glycérol et des acides gras sont libérés dans le sang.
- DESHYDRATATION : La déshydratation du glycérol est faite à chaud, en présence d'hydrogénosulfite de potassium (KHSO3) et produit de l'acroléine
- ESTERIFICATION : L'estérification du glycérol conduit à des (mono, di ou tri) glycérides.
- AUTRES PROPRIETES : Le glycérol a un goût sucré de puissance moitié moindre que le saccharose, son pouvoir sucrant est de 0,56-0,64 à poids égal13.
Le glycérol a des propriétés laxatives et diurétiques faibles.
Comme d'autres composés chimiques, tels que le benzène, son indice de réfraction (1,47) est proche de celui du verre commun (~1,50), permettant de rendre "invisibles" des objets en verre qui y seraient plongés.
Hydratation
Mesure
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau humaine
ViscoélasticitéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Evaluating friction in human skin is important to assess its condition and the effects of skincare cosmetics. In this study, we evaluated the friction dynamics of moisturized skin to show the effects of moisturization on its mechanical properties.
- Methods : Friction force was evaluated using a sinusoidal motion friction evaluation system. The skin of the upper arm of 20 subjects was rubbed using a contact probe. The water content of the stratum corneum and the softness of the skin were measured using a Corneometer and a Cutometer, respectively.
- Results : When human skin was treated with water or 10 wt% glycerol aqueous solution, the friction coefficients increased by 0.23 ± 0.01 and 0.17 ± 0.14, respectively, and the delay times (normalized by calculating the time interval from contact with the probe to the friction response divided by the friction time for one round trip) increased by 0.048 ± 0.034 and 0.055 ± 0.024, respectively. Three different friction profiles were observed: (a) a stable pattern, in which a smooth profile was observed during the sliding process; (b) an oscillation pattern, in which significant oscillation was obtained; and (c) a stick pattern, in which the friction coefficient increased even during the deceleration process. In the case of untreated skin, the oscillation pattern was observed for the majority of subjects. The appearance rate of the stick pattern increased by 80.3% ± 29.4% after treatment with 10 wt% glycerol aqueous solution. These characteristic friction profiles can be explained by a two-step friction model consisting of two modes: (a) friction at the skin surface and (b) the delayed response due to skin deformation.
- Conclusion : Moisturizing the skin with water or 10 wt% glycerol aqueous solution increased the friction coefficient and delay time, dramatically changing the friction profile. These changes were considered to be due to the swelling and softening of the stratum corneum and the increased true contact area between the contact probe and the skin surface.Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Materials - Friction force measurement - Dermatological measurements - Multiple comparison test - T-test
- RESULTS : Friction profile of human skin - Change over time in friction coefficient and delay time with application of water or glycerol aqueous solution - Difference in moisturizing effect between water and 10 wt% glycerol aqueous solution - Change of the expression rate of three friction patterns
- DISCUSSION : The change with moisturization in friction coefficient μ and delay time δ - Three friction patterns on moisturized human skinDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12751 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YiU7XPUEVmTuP7yhK8XfJHHaF6Arrjw5/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37257
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022) . - p. 20-29[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Neurocosmetic beauty : bitter receptor activation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : meg Mullins, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 68-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amertume
Neurocosmétique
Peau humaine
Récepteurs du goût
Récepteurs sensorielsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : By activating the skin’s bitter taste receptors and encouraging calcium influx, personal care products can now alleviate the previous skepticism around neurocosmetics. This development is not merely fascinating for contemplation in a research lab, but now a readily applicable sensory experience for the skin which combines science, innovation, and efficiency into one solution. Note de contenu : - Hitting a nerve
- A taste of TAS2R
- The vital role of calcium
- K is for keratinocytes
- Finding the right ingredients
- The science bitRegulating cellular senescence
- Limiting lipid oxidationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17yfUCj-8irSQOV2PCgssk-cZlcofjxfZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39917
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 6 (06/2023) . - p. 68-70[article]Réservation
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Titre : Olive leaf-derived PPAR agonist complex induces collagen IV synthesis in human skin models Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : George P. Majewski, Auteur ; Smrita Singh, Auteur ; Krzysztof Bojanowski, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 662-676 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Barrière cutanée
Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Collagène
Collagène -- Synthèse
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Modèles numériques
Olivier et constituants
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau humaineIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Introduction : Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) agonists are known to modulate the synthesis of dermal lipids and proteins including collagens. Olive (Olea europaea) leaves have been reported to contain PPAR-binding ligands. Collagen IV, a major dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) protein, degrades with both age and disease. Here, we report the formulation of a novel multi-ligand complex, Linefade, and its effects on collagen IV synthesis.
- Methods : Linefade prepared from the leaves of Olea europaea contains 2% w/w plant extract solids dissolved in a mixture of glyceryl monoricinoleate and dimethyl isosorbide. In silico docking was performed with PPAR-α (PDB ID: 2P54). Linefade was evaluated for PPAR-α-dependent transcription in a luciferase reporter assay system. Cell viability and collagen IV levels in human dermal fibroblast cultures were measured using the MTT method and ELISA assay, respectively. Transcriptome analysis was conducted on a full-thickness reconstituted human skin (EpiDermFT) model. Ex vivo cell viability and collagen IV immunostaining were performed on human skin explants.
- Results : In silico docking model of the major constituents (oleanolic acid and glyceryl monoricinoleate) produced a co-binding affinity of −6.7 Kcal/mole. Linefade significantly increased PPAR-α transcriptional activity in CHO cells and collagen IV synthesis in adult human dermal fibroblasts. Transcriptome analysis revealed that 1% Linefade modulated the expression of 280 genes with some related to epidermal differentiation, DEJ, PPAR, Nrf2 and retinoid pathways. An ex vivo human explant study showed that 1% Linefade, delivered via a triglycerides excipient, increased collagen IV levels along the dermal–epidermal junction by 52%.
- Conclusion : In silico modelling and in vitro and ex vivo analyses confirmed Linefade-mediated activation of PPAR-α and stimulation of collagen IV synthesis.Note de contenu : MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of linefade - In silico modelling technique and validation - In vitro cell studies - Assay on reconstituted skin substitutes - Ex vivo study - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : In silico modelling - In vitro cell studies - Transcriptome analysis - Human explants (Collagen IV)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12742 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BeDt-gYbDKZbvjDvfvDYue6axRMi-oNy/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37048
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 662-676[article]Exemplaires
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