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Gel microemulsions with polyoxyethylene-type surfactant mixture and their application as a makeup remover / Miho Kamada in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013) . - p. 241-247 Titre : Gel microemulsions with polyoxyethylene-type surfactant mixture and their application as a makeup remover Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Miho Kamada, Auteur ; Tetsuro Iwanaga, Auteur ; Kenji Aramaki, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 241-247 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cristaux liquides Démaquillants Diagrammes de phases Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Huile de palme et constituants Huile de ricin et constituants Microémulsions Polyéthylène glycol Rhéologie Solubilisation Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Microemulsions generally have low viscosities. We intended to develop a microemulsion with a gelatinous property for applications as a makeup remover. In a poly (oxyethylene)(50) hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (HCO(EO50)IS) in an oil (ethylhexylpalmitate)/water system, microemulsions were formed only in a narrow range. When water was replaced with 70 wt% glycerol aq., the region where microemulsions could be formed was expanded, and gel microemulsions were formed in compositions containing large amounts of oils. Furthermore, when part of the HCO(EO50)IS was replaced with poly(oxyethylene)(5)glyceryl monoisosterate (GIS(EO5)), the microemulsion region spread to 90 wt% of oil. The gel microemulsions were characterized by a large degree of water solubilization, and obtained good spreadability and smoothness in sensory evaluations and showed no decrease in cleansing ability. Note de contenu : - Experimental - Materials - Methods - Phase diagram determination - Rheological measurements - Sensory panel test - "In vitro" evaluation of cleansing ability - Result and discussion - Phase behavior of a water/glycerol/HCO(EO50)IS/EHP system - Effect of added co-surfactants - Effect of water solubilization on properties of the gel microemulsion Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20153 [article]

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Effect of the behenyl trimethyl ammonium counterion on the lamellar gel property / Toshiyuki Iwata in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013) . - p. 249-254 Titre : Effect of the behenyl trimethyl ammonium counterion on the lamellar gel property Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Toshiyuki Iwata, Auteur ; Kenji Aramaki, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 249-254 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chlorure de béhényl triméthylammonium Composés lamellaires Composites Conditionnement Cosmétiques Couches minces multicouches Friction humide Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Méthylsulfate de behenyl triméthylammonium Rayons X -- Diffusion Rhéologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A gel network made of behenyl trimethyl ammonium methylsulfate (BTAMS) and its chloride version (BTAC) were compared for their colloidal structure, rheological properties and wet friction. The hair conditioners made of these gel networks were evaluated by a consumer panel for wet conditioning performance. The BTAMS gel network had a higher G', G'' and σ950 than the BTAC gel network. The rheology of the BTAMS gel network was more responsive to the concentration of the surfactant and fatty alcohols due to the bulk water phase outside the BTAMS lamellar gel phase. While the BTAC gel network swells accordingly depending on the concentration, nos sign of a bulk water phase was found. Despite the presence of a bulk water phase, the BTAMS lamellar gel was much stiffer than the BTAC lamellar gel, thus contributing to the higher G', G'' and sigma950, and making it difficult to break under conditions of stress (rinsing), which leads to a lower wet friction during rinsing that is noticeable to the consumer. The lower wet friction was not due to greater depostion of conditioning ingredients. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and formulation - Rheology - Small and wide angle X-ray scattering - Hair swatch preparation - Wet friction - Consumer panel test - RESULT AND DISCUSSION : Rheology - Lamellar gel structure -Wet friction Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20155 [article]

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In vitro study into the SPF and UVA-PF using different applicators / Saul Pyle in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013) . - p. 255-261 Titre : In vitro study into the SPF and UVA-PF using different applicators Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Saul Pyle, Auteur ; Dearbhaile Lynn, Auteur ; Don Ross, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 255-261 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Appareils et matériels Cosmétiques -- Application-dosage Etude in vitro Etude in vivo Facteur de protection solaire Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This report investigates the impacts of applicator materials on the in vitro SPF method and calculated UVA-PF following a method based on ISO 24443. The study found that the in vitro SPF varied considerably with changes to applicators. It was observed that particular characteristics of the applicators contributed to the measured SPF, where smooth textures that are often peculiar to particular materials generated the highest SPF and rough textures yielded a lower SPF. The potential mechanism behind the measured SPF was investigated and discussed including the potential implications on ISO 24444, which permits the use of applicators. The calculated UVA-PF also varied with applicator and was observed to have an inverse relationship with the in vitro SPF, but the variability was far les pronounced and relatively erratic. Therefore, it was difficult to confirm the inverse relationship as absolute and further investigation may be necessary with a larger sample size allowing more detailed analysis that may highlight a more complicated trend. While the reasoning behind the variation in UVA-PF is not well understood, a contributing factor relating the limits of detection at higher SPFs is visited, as observed on the 'adjusted normed mean curves' as found in the ISO 24443 spreadsheet, where the UVB aspect of the absorbance curve deviates from normality. The ramification of this deviation is then discussed, where it is noted that where the C value used to adjust the curve using the measured in vivo SPF is an indicator of reliability according to the recommended range (0.8 -1.6), it is not a dependable measure. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Equipment - Materials - Products - Applicator selection - Review - Analysis - Robustness and repeatability - Water resistance - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Applicator analysis - Material and texture - Microscopic film evaluation - Adjusted normed mean - Robustness and repeatability - Water resistance Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20159 [article]

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Toxicological testing of cosmetic ingredients using alternative methods - The supplier's perspective / Tzutzuy Ramirez in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013) . - p. 263-274 Titre : Toxicological testing of cosmetic ingredients using alternative methods - The supplier's perspective Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tzutzuy Ramirez, Auteur ; Susanne N. Kolle, Auteur ; Stefan Schulte, Auteur ; Markus Schulz, Auteur ; Annette Mehling, Auteur ; Marcus Kleber, Auteur ; Wera Teubner, Auteur ; Ben van Ravenzwaay, Auteur ; Robert Landsiedel, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 263-274 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption Evaluation Expérimentation non animale Ingrédients cosmétiques Oeil -- Inflammation Peau -- Inflammation Relations structure-activité Sensibilité cutanée Tests de toxicité Toxicologie Toxicologie génétique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The use of alternatives to animal studies in toxicology is an ethical imperative and hence strongly recommended by current EU regulations.Particularly the 7th amendment of the cosmetic directive represents a major challenge to the chemical and cosmetics industry, since the safety of cosmetic ingredients is of paramount importance and must be ensured. Herein, we present examples of methods and strategies that are in accordance with the 3R principle and could be applicable today. Unfortunately, no validated replacement alternatives are available yet for several toxicological areas relevant to the cosmetic regulation and none are expected to become available in the near future. Note de contenu : - Some aspect of the safety assessments of cosmetic products - Evaluation of physical and chemical properties of cosmetic ingredients - Use of the (Quantitative) structure-activity relationship (Q)SAR and "Read-across" from structurally related compounds - Toxicological testing - Acute (systemic) toxicity - Eye irritation and corrosion - Skin irritation and corrosion - Skin sensitization - Genotoxicity - Alternatives for other toxicological endpoints : repeated dose toxicity and reproductive/developmental toxicity - Skin absorption - Exposure to cosmetic ingredients - Concept of threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) - Concluding remarks Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20160 [article]

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