[article]
| Titre : |
Simultaneous enhancement of cosmetic function and feel via molecular investigation of stickiness |
| Type de document : |
document électronique |
| Auteurs : |
Hiroki Kudoh, Auteur ; Hirokazu Iyanagi, Auteur ; Kenichi Yoshizawa, Auteur ; Sayuri Okura, Auteur ; Katsuhiko Nakamae, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2005 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 279-284 |
| Note générale : |
"Bibliogr." |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Tags : |
Viscosité 'Energie libre de surface' 'Acrylate fluoroalkyle' 'Second coefficient virial' 'Coefficient d'autodiffusion' Glycérine |
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Moisturizing performance is often a very important factor in cosmetics. However, incorporating high concentrations of moisturizing agents often causes products to become sticky, a feel that consumers dislike. We suspected that the reason why high moisturizer content generates strong stickiness is that the polar group of the molecule is exposed to the surface. Thus, we began with the hypothesis that stickiness could be prevented through coexistence with a substance minimizing the exposure of the polar group. Using glycerin as a moisturizing agent, we screened a large number of conventional materials for reducing stickiness but failed to find an effective compound. We then considered the use of a polymer for this purpose, and synthesized a custom-made polymer, polyglycolmethacrylate-2-hydroxyethylmethacrylate-fluoroalkylacrylate copolymer (Polymer SR). Our experiments revealed that Polymer SR reduces the stickiness of glycerin by forming a hydrophobic film without hindering moisturizing performance. To clarify the mechanism by which Polymer SR restrains stickiness, we investigated the interaction between the Polymer SR and glycerin in solution form with NMR and static light-scattering measurements. We learned that Polymer SR and glycerin exist on skin as the hydrophobic group of Polymer SR orients to the outside. Subjective sensory tests supported our belief that this hydrophobic orientation is maintained on the dermal surface even after application to the skin. We believe that our technique for restraining the stickiness of moisturizers can be adopted for use with other substances by taking into account the intended function and feel, and will contribute to future cosmetic research. |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10450 |
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 8, N° 4 (10-11-12/2005) . - p. 279-284
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