Advanced light protection with titanium dioxide / Jutta zur Lage in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 9 (09/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 9 (09/2017) . - p. 20-25 Titre : Advanced light protection with titanium dioxide Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jutta zur Lage, Auteur ; Anett Moschner, Auteur ; Alexander Kielbassa, Auteur ; Marina Lefort, Auteur ; Frank Pflücker, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 20-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dioxyde de titane Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Beyond UV radiation, sun emits visible (VIS) and infrared (IR) light that impair the skin barrier by causing oxidative stress leading to photoaging. Modern cosmetics need adequate solutions for an extended solar protection to fight against the harmful impact of the complete range of radiation (UV, VIS and IR) due to an over exposure. In this study, we focus on the additional performance of UV filter grade titanium dioxide in high energy visible light (HEVL) and IR-A light investigated by photometric measurements in vitro on different substrates. This paper provides information on types of titanium dioxides that are suitable to optimize your formulation and provide advanced light protection with excellent results in HEVL and IR-A ranges. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Methods - Measurements in short cut cuvette - Measurements on PMMA plates - RESULTS : Results of short cut cuvette measurements for high energy visible light (HEVL) - Results on PMMA plates for high energy visible light (HEVL) - Results of short cut cuvette measurements for near infrared light - Table 1 : Types of titanium dioxides used - Table 2 : O/W) emusion - Table 3 : W/Si emulsion En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rpZJFxHr65c6SRfNC8UiZhuNPwNfS4xy/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29079 [article]

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Complete photo protection - Going beyond visible endpoints / Frank Pflücker in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005) . - p. 20-30 Titre : Complete photo protection - Going beyond visible endpoints Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frank Pflücker, Auteur ; Joachim Bünger, Auteur ; Sabine Hitzel, Auteur ; Gabriele Witte, Auteur ; Jörn Beck, Auteur ; Matthias Lergenmüller, Auteur ; Hansjürgen Driller, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 20-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coup de soleil Dioxyde de titane Encapsulation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers and patients are highly interested in sunscreens that offer both a protection against sunburn and suberythemal cell damages. We report the combination of encapsulated UVB filters and the broadband filter Titanium Dioxide together with the cell protection factor Ectoin. The UV filter particles are supposed to work on the outermost skin layers to protect from visible endpoints such as UV-induced erythema. Ectoin additionally work as a second defence line to protect beyond visible endpoints against UV-induced celle damages in the epidermis. Aim of the present study is to investigate whether an encapsulation inhibits the contact of UV filters with the body tissue, leading to an increase of the Margin of Safety. On the other hand the performance of non-penetrating inorganic TiO2 in the UVB and especially in the UVA should be determined. Furthermore we wanted to explore the ability of Ectoin to protect against UV-induced damages, which may also occur before occurence of an erythema. Derma absorption experiments were carried out with encapsulated UV filters. Test show a tremendous reduction (70%) in total dermal absorption of encapsulated UV filters compared to non-encapsulated OMC. Using the biological endpoint persistent pigment darkening (PPD), TiO2 (T-2000, T-S) exhibit a very good UVA protection factor of 8 at a 10% use level, while a sun protection factor (SPF) of approx. SPF 20 can be reached. The protection potential of Ectoin against UVA induced damages can be shown: Ectoin reduces the number of sunburn cells in organo-typical skin equivalents and prevents the destruction of Langerhans cells after UV irradiation of human skin in vivo. In conclusion, encapsulated sunscreens inhibit the contact of UV filters with the body tissue, leading to an increase of the Margin of Safety. Non-penetrating TiO2 offers real broad-spectrum protection (UVA and UVB). Finally Ectoin acts as a second defence line in protecting the skin cells from sub-erythemal UV-induced skin damages. A combination of encapsulated UV fileters, Titanium Dioxide and Ectoin leads to sunscreens that take safety aspects into maximum account. Note de contenu : - UV-PROTECTING AGENTS - ENCAPSULATED UV FILTERS - THE CELL PROTECTION FACTOR ECTOIN - COMPLETE PHOTO PROTECTION CONCEPT - MATERIAL AND METHODS : In vivo PPD measurements with Titanium Dioxide - In vitro percutaneous absorption study with UV-Pearls - Sun Burn Cell Assay with Ectoin - Langerhans Cell Assay with Ectoin - RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS : In vitro percutaneous absorption study of UV-Pearls - In vivo SPF and UVA Performance of Titanium Dioxide - Protection of Sun Burn Cell Assay by Ectoin - Protection of the skin immune system (Langerhans cells) by Ectoin Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28119 [article]

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Functional Fillers and their impact in cosmetic formulations / M. Termer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 3 (03/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 3 (03/2017) . - p. 56-63 Titre : Functional Fillers and their impact in cosmetic formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Termer, Auteur ; L. Heider, Auteur ; S. Weger, Auteur ; Jutta zur Lage, Auteur ; Frank Pflücker, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 56-63 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Charges (matériaux) Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Face care comprising skin care and color cosmetics represent a market with many new product launches showing a constant increase of innovation to satisfy growing consumer expectations. Within these segments, foundations or fluid illuminators represent a dominant part including BB, CC, DD multifunctional foundations. These products are often characterized with a light texture, non-sticky or non-tacky properties, long-lasting aspects. As a primary benefit they offer illuminating and lightening benefits to skin. Consumers are seeking products to enhance their beauty, meaning blurring skin imperfections making their skin appear smoother and looking healthier. These requests call for new, simple and attractive solutions. Beyond these product benefits. modern consumers also desire sustainability, eco-friendly, ethical and socially responsible formulated and manufactured products. Current awareness is linked towards replacement of plastic beads in rinse off products and other cosmetic formulations. In response to these demanding requirements, we offer comprehensive information regarding the benefits of Functional Fillers to create immediate, visible effects on skin. In addition, this summary is able to show the wide possibilities of Functional Fillers to make formulators' daily work more efficient. Note de contenu : - Modern formulation requirements - Functional fillers - Composition and profile - The benefit of soft focus - Sensory profile of functional fillers - Effect on cosmetic formulations - FIGURES : 1. Substrate variations of functional fillers - 2. Close-up pictures of the skin without functional filler, withe spherical functional and with platelet shaped functional filler - Different options to generate a soft focus effect - 4. Goniometric measurement of soft focus - 5. Aspects to consider for formulating a final cosmetic application - FORMULATION : 1. Radiant skin gel - 2. Redness reducing gel - TABLES : 1. Benefits and effects of different substrates of functional fillers En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NfL3m4KTMevXkZ8jzNCP0kkrsjWAGWV0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28207 [article]

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Hydroxy dimetoxybenzyl malonate : a novel anti-(photo)aging concept / Thomas Rudolph in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 211-216 Titre : Hydroxy dimetoxybenzyl malonate : a novel anti-(photo)aging concept Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Rudolph, Auteur ; Philipp Bühle, Auteur ; Jörn Beck, Auteur ; Frank Pflücker, Auteur ; Karl-August Reiffen, Auteur ; Herwig Buchholz, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 211-216 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Anti-âge'  Photoprotection  'Commande  UV  réglable' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ideally, anti-(photo)ageing concepts should provide maximum efficacy, perfect stability and cosmetic (formulation) elegance. The need for high efficacy paired with excellent stability appeared contradictive but was resolved by designing complete redox systems rather than antioxidants alone. We here introduce a new class of cosmetic redox pairs, each comprising the initial antioxidant plus its oxidation product. The chemical properties of the oxidation product are the key to enabling the system to maintain or even increase its initial efficacy. A series of antioxidant tests were used to carefully characterize single redox pair components for comparison with traditional antioxidants such as vitamin C and E derivatives (DPPH, lipid and TEAC assays). Kinetic studies on the photobehaviour of a selected redox pair were carried out in cosmetic emulsions with solar simulation and monitored by UV spectroscopy and high performance liquid chromatography. Hydroxy dimethoxybenzyl malonate (HDBM) is a pure transparent cosmetic oil. It shows excellent cosmetic stability coupled with extraordinary antioxidant properties. This controlled activity can be explained well by the presence of its oxidation product hydroxy dimethoxybenzylidene malonate (HDBMox), which provides ongoing antioxidant activity plus excellent UVA absorbing properties. The redox pair described here provides the advanced on-demand benefit of a non-UV-absorbing photoprotector that is converted into its UV-absorbing equivalent upon light exposure. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10445 [article]

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Sunglasses for the skin : Reduction of dermal UV filter uptake by encapsulation / Frank Pflücker in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 24-28 Titre : Sunglasses for the skin : Reduction of dermal UV filter uptake by encapsulation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frank Pflücker, Auteur ; Hervé Guinard, Auteur ; Noa Lapidot, Auteur ; Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Auteur ; François Marchio, Auteur ; Hansjürgen Driller, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 24-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Encapsulation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the present study it will be reported a highly innovative micro encapsulation technique which will keep UV filters on the outermost layer of the skin, and will also separate them from other components in the formulation. The glass entrapped UV-filters was applied in vivo, in a test vehicle, to normal human skin. Tape strips were then taken and electron microscopy showed that intact particles form a layer on the surface of the skin. Additionally, in vitro release studies showed the maintenance of sunscreen actives on the surface of a membrane, serving as skin barrier model, compared to non-encapsulated material. In conclusion, the encapsulated sunscreens obtained through the Sol-Gel glass making technology offer improved products: e.g. sensitive skin products which maintain or even boost the high SPF's required, while eliminating contact between the active ingredients and the body tissues. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Specification of UV-Pearls - STABILITY AFTER TOPICAL IN VIVO APPLICATION : Topical application procedure - IN VIVO RELEASE STUDY : Application of test formulation - EPIDERMAL UPTAKE OF UV FILTERS BY HUMAN EPIDERMIS : Application of test formulation - PHOTO-STABILITY OF THE COMBINATION OMC/BMDBM Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28182 [article]

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The outermost stratum corneum layer is an effective barrier against dermal uptake of topically applied micronized titanium dioxide / Frank Pflücker in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999)  

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