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Complete photo protection - Going beyond visible endpoints / Frank Pflücker in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005)
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Titre : Complete photo protection - Going beyond visible endpoints Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frank Pflücker, Auteur ; Joachim Bünger, Auteur ; Sabine Hitzel, Auteur ; Gabriele Witte, Auteur ; Jörn Beck, Auteur ; Matthias Lergenmüller, Auteur ; Hansjürgen Driller, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 20-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coup de soleil
Dioxyde de titane
Encapsulation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Photoprotection
Protection cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers and patients are highly interested in sunscreens that offer both a protection against sunburn and suberythemal cell damages. We report the combination of encapsulated UVB filters and the broadband filter Titanium Dioxide together with the cell protection factor Ectoin. The UV filter particles are supposed to work on the outermost skin layers to protect from visible endpoints such as UV-induced erythema. Ectoin additionally work as a second defence line to protect beyond visible endpoints against UV-induced celle damages in the epidermis. Aim of the present study is to investigate whether an encapsulation inhibits the contact of UV filters with the body tissue, leading to an increase of the Margin of Safety. On the other hand the performance of non-penetrating inorganic TiO2 in the UVB and especially in the UVA should be determined. Furthermore we wanted to explore the ability of Ectoin to protect against UV-induced damages, which may also occur before occurence of an erythema. Derma absorption experiments were carried out with encapsulated UV filters. Test show a tremendous reduction (70%) in total dermal absorption of encapsulated UV filters compared to non-encapsulated OMC. Using the biological endpoint persistent pigment darkening (PPD), TiO2 (T-2000, T-S) exhibit a very good UVA protection factor of 8 at a 10% use level, while a sun protection factor (SPF) of approx. SPF 20 can be reached. The protection potential of Ectoin against UVA induced damages can be shown: Ectoin reduces the number of sunburn cells in organo-typical skin equivalents and prevents the destruction of Langerhans cells after UV irradiation of human skin in vivo. In conclusion, encapsulated sunscreens inhibit the contact of UV filters with the body tissue, leading to an increase of the Margin of Safety. Non-penetrating TiO2 offers real broad-spectrum protection (UVA and UVB). Finally Ectoin acts as a second defence line in protecting the skin cells from sub-erythemal UV-induced skin damages. A combination of encapsulated UV fileters, Titanium Dioxide and Ectoin leads to sunscreens that take safety aspects into maximum account. Note de contenu : - UV-PROTECTING AGENTS
- ENCAPSULATED UV FILTERS
- THE CELL PROTECTION FACTOR ECTOIN
- COMPLETE PHOTO PROTECTION CONCEPT
- MATERIAL AND METHODS : In vivo PPD measurements with Titanium Dioxide - In vitro percutaneous absorption study with UV-Pearls - Sun Burn Cell Assay with Ectoin - Langerhans Cell Assay with Ectoin
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS : In vitro percutaneous absorption study of UV-Pearls - In vivo SPF and UVA Performance of Titanium Dioxide - Protection of Sun Burn Cell Assay by Ectoin - Protection of the skin immune system (Langerhans cells) by EctoinPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28119
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005) . - p. 20-30[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18185 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Hydroxy dimetoxybenzyl malonate : a novel anti-(photo)aging concept / Thomas Rudolph in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)
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Titre : Hydroxy dimetoxybenzyl malonate : a novel anti-(photo)aging concept Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Rudolph, Auteur ; Philipp Bühle, Auteur ; Jörn Beck, Auteur ; Frank Pflücker, Auteur ; Karl-August Reiffen, Auteur ; Herwig Buchholz, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 211-216 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Anti-âge' Photoprotection 'Commande UV réglable' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ideally, anti-(photo)ageing concepts should provide maximum efficacy, perfect stability and cosmetic (formulation) elegance. The need for high efficacy paired with excellent stability appeared contradictive but was resolved by designing complete redox systems rather than antioxidants alone. We here introduce a new class of cosmetic redox pairs, each comprising the initial antioxidant plus its oxidation product. The chemical properties of the oxidation product are the key to enabling the system to maintain or even increase its initial efficacy. A series of antioxidant tests were used to carefully characterize single redox pair components for comparison with traditional antioxidants such as vitamin C and E derivatives (DPPH, lipid and TEAC assays). Kinetic studies on the photobehaviour of a selected redox pair were carried out in cosmetic emulsions with solar simulation and monitored by UV spectroscopy and high performance liquid chromatography. Hydroxy dimethoxybenzyl malonate (HDBM) is a pure transparent cosmetic oil. It shows excellent cosmetic stability coupled with extraordinary antioxidant properties. This controlled activity can be explained well by the presence of its oxidation product hydroxy dimethoxybenzylidene malonate (HDBMox), which provides ongoing antioxidant activity plus excellent UVA absorbing properties. The redox pair described here provides the advanced on-demand benefit of a non-UV-absorbing photoprotector that is converted into its UV-absorbing equivalent upon light exposure. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10445
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 211-216[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 008186 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible