Hydroxy dimetoxybenzyl malonate : a novel anti-(photo)aging concept / Thomas Rudolph in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 211-216 Titre : Hydroxy dimetoxybenzyl malonate : a novel anti-(photo)aging concept Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Rudolph, Auteur ; Philipp Bühle, Auteur ; Jörn Beck, Auteur ; Frank Pflücker, Auteur ; Karl-August Reiffen, Auteur ; Herwig Buchholz, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 211-216 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Anti-âge'  Photoprotection  'Commande  UV  réglable' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ideally, anti-(photo)ageing concepts should provide maximum efficacy, perfect stability and cosmetic (formulation) elegance. The need for high efficacy paired with excellent stability appeared contradictive but was resolved by designing complete redox systems rather than antioxidants alone. We here introduce a new class of cosmetic redox pairs, each comprising the initial antioxidant plus its oxidation product. The chemical properties of the oxidation product are the key to enabling the system to maintain or even increase its initial efficacy. A series of antioxidant tests were used to carefully characterize single redox pair components for comparison with traditional antioxidants such as vitamin C and E derivatives (DPPH, lipid and TEAC assays). Kinetic studies on the photobehaviour of a selected redox pair were carried out in cosmetic emulsions with solar simulation and monitored by UV spectroscopy and high performance liquid chromatography. Hydroxy dimethoxybenzyl malonate (HDBM) is a pure transparent cosmetic oil. It shows excellent cosmetic stability coupled with extraordinary antioxidant properties. This controlled activity can be explained well by the presence of its oxidation product hydroxy dimethoxybenzylidene malonate (HDBMox), which provides ongoing antioxidant activity plus excellent UVA absorbing properties. The redox pair described here provides the advanced on-demand benefit of a non-UV-absorbing photoprotector that is converted into its UV-absorbing equivalent upon light exposure. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10445 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
008186	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Vitamins and other "secondary actives" in Sun care products / Thomas Rudolph in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 29-32 Titre : Vitamins and other "secondary actives" in Sun care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Rudolph, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 29-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Tests d'efficacité Vitamines Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today modern sun protection systems contain a number of active ingredients. Undoubtedly UV filters play the most important role in building up the UV protection shield. As "primary actives" they neutralize harmful UV light by the conversion of UV into harmless heat. However UV filters cannot provide a 100% protection against all harmful UV/sun rays. There are still gaps where photons can pass unhindered through the layer of UV filters to trigger photoreactions on/in the skin. Once these photoreactions have occured there is a strong need to remove harmful photoproducts. This function is delivered by the group of "secondary actives". These are either direct classic antioxidants (vitamins C, E; polyphenols) or indirect antioxidants (chelating agents, amino acids, enzymes,...). All compounds have the common aim to reduce "oxidative stress" and fight "free radicals". By contrast to UV filters the group of "secondary actives" shows little to no UV absorptivity. While UV filters are chemically inert and return to their ground states after absorption, "secondary actives" that act as classic antioxidants can irreversibly be consumed. The number of EU permitted organic UV filters is limited to 25. In comparison the group of potential "secondary actives" appears vague but nevertheless consists of numerous heterogenous compounds. The aim of this paper is to classify these compounds and look at some of those "secondary activies" that are currently used in market products. Note de contenu : - Classic antioxidants - "Indirect" antioxidants - Efficacy testing - FIGURES : 1. The formation of ROS (schematic) - 2. Classic antioxidants ant their mode of function (schematic) - 3. Vitamin E - formula structures - 4. Vitamin C - formula structures - 5. Polyphenol - α-glucosyl rutin - 6. Hydroperoxid formation (I-unsaturated lipid ; II - allyl radical ; III - peroxyl radical ; IV-hydroperoxide) Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28183 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
18183	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

---

1 (1 - 2 / 2)