A novel water-repellent O/W emulsion using a new water-soluble amphilic polymer / Eri Akiyama in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 4 (10-11-12/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 4 (10-11-12/2006) . - p. 313-318 Titre : A novel water-repellent O/W emulsion using a new water-soluble amphilic polymer Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eri Akiyama, Auteur ; Akio Kashimoto, Auteur ; Hajime Hotta, Auteur ; Tomohito Kitsuki, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 313-318 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Polysaccharide  modifié'  'Hydrophilie-hydrophobie'  (HHM-PS)'  'Polymère  amphiphile  soluble  dans  l'eau'  'Emulsion  huile/eau'  'Surfactant  lipophile' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A novel O/W (oil-in-water) emulsion cosmetic that has strong water repellency and a »water-splash feel« was prepared using the amphiphilic polymer hydrophilic-hydrophobic modified polysaccharide (INCI/Sodium Stearoxy PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate). This emulsion is composed of a hydrophobic–hydrophilic modified polysaccharide/water/oil system with a small amount of lipophilic non-ionic surfactant (hydrophilic–lipophilic balance<5) added to obtain finely emulsified oil particles. Hydrophilic–hydrophobic modified polysaccharide was used as a thickener and polymer surfactant, and it produced a stable O/W emulsion without the addition of a hydrophilic surfactant. Several types of oil droplets decrease in size upon addition of various kinds of lipophilic surfactant due to the lowering of tension at the water/oil interface. Rheological measurements revealed that the strong network structure of hydrophilic–hydrophobic modified polysaccharide retained oil droplets without occurrence of phase inversion. Such an emulsion is very different from those made using conventional hydrophilic surfactants, and it is water repellent. This system was characterized by the presence of hydrophilic–hydrophobic modified polysaccharide, and the state of the emulsion could be controlled by the ratio of hydrophobic/hydrophilic moieties introduced into the polysaccharide. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10436 [article]

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Soft press : the ultra-low pressure molding technology for powder cosmetics / Akio Kashimoto in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004) . - p. 183-187 Titre : Soft press : the ultra-low pressure molding technology for powder cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Akio Kashimoto, Auteur ; Yoshimune Nonomura, Auteur ; Hajime Hotta, Auteur ; Toshiyuki Suzuki, Auteur ; Yohei Kaneko, Auteur ; Kazuhiro Iitaka, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 183-187 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Poudre  'Moulage  pression'  Liant  'Lauroyl  taurate  de  calcium'  'Polymère  contact' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pressed-powder cosmetics with an extremely soft and light sense of touch were prepared using a novel ultra-low pressure molding technology. These novel pressed-powder cosmetics have a very high porosity creating a light silky feeling. Furthermore, with this novel molding, large quantities of organic crystalline powder can be incorporated into the cosmetics resulting in a good spreadability and smooth sense of touch. The novel molding technology named soft press molding developed in the current study involves several characteristic stages: (i) mixing the binder dispersion; (ii) soft compression; and (iii) drying (volatilizing a disperse medium). The first process is the mixing of water-repellent powder with an aqueous dispersion of elastic film-forming polymer into a pendular or funicular state. After compressing and drying, an interspersed polymer effectively combines the particles forming contact between the particles. In this study, calcium lauroyl taurate (CaLT) was used as an example of an organic crystalline powder to provide a silky smooth sense of touch to a powdery foundation. CaLT particles deform to a thin layer readily when applied to skin, creating a smooth pleasing sensation while spreading. Conventional high-pressure molding causes deformation during compression resulting in hard-caking of the molded cosmetics. However, by using soft press molding, the powdery foundation can contain more than 30 wt% of CaLT without hard-caking, and the resultant powdery foundation expresses an extremely smooth sensation to the touch. Furthermore, this powdery foundation shows a natural finish approximating bare skin due to the deformation of a thin layer on application restricting the light scattering, a characteristic property of a powder. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10473 [article]

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