4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol : a new, highly efficient lightening agent / Gabriele Vielhaber in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 227-234 Titre : 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol : a new, highly efficient lightening agent Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriele Vielhaber, Auteur ; Gerhard Schmaus, Auteur ; karin jacobs, Auteur ; Helge Franke, Auteur ; Sabine Lange, Auteur ; Martina Herrmann, Auteur ; Holger Joppe, Auteur ; Oskar Koch, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 227-234 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Allègement  de  peau'  Tyrosinase  'Cellules  mélanome  B16'  'Modélisation  d'épiderme  en  3D'  'Etudes  in  vivo' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There is an increasing world-wide demand for skin lightening active ingredients. Many common lightening ingredients on the market are either unsafe or ineffective at low concentrations. We therefore screened a series of hydroxy-stilbene derivatives for tyrosinase inhibitory activity. By chemical synthesis, the structures were optimized for efficacy and stability. The final candidate, 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol, was found to be stable and to inhibit mushroom tyrosinase 22 times more effectively than kojic acid. In an assay with B16V melanoma cells, 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol was the most potent inhibitor of melanin synthesis with an IC50 of 2 μM among the compounds investigated. The lightening effect of 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol was not due to cytotoxicity as proved by an MTT assay on B16V cells. On pigmented 3D epidermis models, 0.1% of 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol led to an almost complete suppression of melanin synthesis after 14 days of incubation. Finally, an in vivo test on Asian subjects proved that 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol efficiently lightens human skin at 0.5% dosage. Optimal results are achieved when 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol is applied in formulations with low oil content. In summary, we have demonstrated that 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol is a potent, stable and safe skin lightener. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10448 [article]

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Blackberry leaf extract : a multifunctional anti-aging active / Martina Herrmann in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 10, N° 1 (01-02/2007)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 10, N° 1 (01-02/2007) . - p. 41-45 Titre : Blackberry leaf extract : a multifunctional anti-aging active Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Herrmann, Auteur ; Susanne Grether-Beck, Auteur ; Imke Meyer, Auteur ; Helge Franke, Auteur ; Holger Joppe, Auteur ; Jean Krutmann, Auteur ; Gabriele Vielhaber, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 41-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Extrait  de  feuille  Blackberry'  'Balayage  radical'  'Rubus  fructicosus'  'Anti-âge'  'Mmp-1'  'Il-1?' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) play a major role in wrinkle formation. Their expression increases with aging and is further enhanced by UV irradiation. Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) leaf extract has been shown to suppress MMP-1, -2 and -9 in cell-free assays. We have now further explored the activity of this extract. The effect on MMP-1 expression at the protein and the mRNA level was investigated using non-irradiated and UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts. The extract showed a dose-dependent reduction of the MMP-1 protein level of both irradiated and non-irradiated cells with an almost complete inhibition at a dosage of 0.1%. MMP-1 mRNA expression of UVA-irradiated cells was decreased after pre-incubation as well as after post-incubation with the extract. Best results were obtained with combined pre- and post-treatment (0.1% extract led to 59% reduction in comparison with the respective control). Moreover, we found that blackberry leaf extract inhibits IL-1α, a cytokine known to induce MMP expression. At a dosage of 0.2% the inhibition was 40% compared with that of the stimulated control. The extract also exhibited a potent radical scavenging activity comparable to that of α-tocopherol as was shown by the ABTS assay. Taken together, these biological activities make blackberry leaf extract a highly efficient multifunctional anti-aging active. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10428 [article]

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