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How science can serve the diversity of beauty needs / Jacques Leclaire in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013) . - p. 151-154 Titre : How science can serve the diversity of beauty needs Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jacques Leclaire, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 151-154 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Attitudes Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Innovations Groupe ethnique Mondialisation Soins de beauté Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Tomorrow's beauty will be global and universal and will respect the unique nature of each region. The L'Oreal mission is to offer everyone all over the world the best of cosmetics in terms of quality, efficacy and safety by providing products in harmony with their needs, culture, expectations and specificities. Thus, our innovation model is unique. It stems from an association of market intelligence including the observation of beauty rituals, emblematic products and cultural habits as well as in-depth knowledge of skin and hair's characteristics, biophysics, biology and physiology. It is essential to be aware of biological and structural differences in the hair and skin of people around the world and it is just as important to study variations in their habits and perceptions as consumers. The aim of this contribution is to illustrate how, through research, science and technology, it is possible to develop game-changing innovations that meet the specific beauty needs of customers everywhere in the world. Note de contenu : - Importance of daily photoprotection in Asia - permanent hair color adapted to the specificities of African hair - Appropriate photoprotection for each skin color type - Technology specifically adapted for shiny and oily skin : the oil and sweat concept Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19290 [article]

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An innovative, rapid, qualitative and quantitative approach to the epidermal barrier function with in vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy / Anne Isabel Guzman in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013) . - p. 157-163 Titre : An innovative, rapid, qualitative and quantitative approach to the epidermal barrier function with in vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Isabel Guzman, Auteur ; David Boudier, Auteur ; Josselin Breugnot, Auteur ; Delphine Rondeau, Auteur ; Maud Le Guillou, Auteur ; Brigitte Closs, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 157-163 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Evaluation Hydratation Imagerie médicale Imagerie numérique Microscopie confocale à balayage laser Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The barrier function of the skin is essential for maintaining the hydration and physical properties of skin tissue. Its state can be assessed using noninvasive instrumental methods widely used in cosmetics, such as the Tewameter®. This method is very simple to use but does not provide information on the state of the skin, in particular on the state of the stratum corneum and its cellular organization, and does not visualize the skin surface. However, many noninvasive medical imaging techniques used on the skin provide more precise information on this organ. In the work reported here, we show that modeling based on acquisitions from in vivo confocal laser scanning microscopy provides high resolution digital images that can be used to assess the state of the skin surface and the integrity of the barrier function. The numerical results obtained correlate well with those obtained using the Tewameter® and therefore validate this qualitative, rapid and quantitative approach to the assessment of barrier function. This novel approach was used to screen and assess natural cosmetic active ingredients in order to determine their effect on restoration of the barrier function of the skin. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Measuring TEWL - Confocal microscopy acquisitions - Image processing and programming - Study of correlation - RESULTS : Measurement of transepidermal water loss - Quantitative confocal microscopy study - Changes in cell organization over time - Correlation between transepidermal water loss and cellular organization - DISCUSSION : Image processing and programming - Quantification of images by experts Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19304 [article]

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Development of a powerful tool for investigation of the structure and functionality of the aqueous phase of cosmetics / Luigi Rigano in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013) . - p. 165-174 Titre : Development of a powerful tool for investigation of the structure and functionality of the aqueous phase of cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Luigi Rigano, Auteur ; Giovanni Baratto, Auteur ; Alessandro Portolan, Auteur ; Alessandra Semenzato, Auteur ; Marisa Meloni, Auteur ; Adriana Bonfigli, Auteur ; Maurizio Sironi, Auteur ; Stefano Pieraccini, Auteur ; Nicola Lionetti, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 165-174 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Analyse Cosmétiques en phase aqueuse Etude in vitro Etude in vivo Molécules -- Modèles Osmose Protection cutanée Protéines -- Structure Stress -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The continuous research for new, high-performing ingredients is one of the most difficult hurdles facing cosmetic companies. Sometimes, a more in-depth investigation on the structures composing the apparently homogeneous phases of cosmetic preparations is required. This could allow a precise understanding of some hidden molecular behavior. This paper describes an innovative approach for the identification of skin-effective raw materials. It is based on the combined application of in silico analysis of molecular dynamics followed by a new in vitro model for studying the skin recovety from stress. This new pathway was adopted to better understand the molecular structure of the aqueous phase of cosmetics containing osmotic protectants and their mechanism of interaction with the protein moieties when some type of stress conditions is applied. Molecular dynamics is a method using the computer simulation of the physical movements of atoms and molecules in a specific aqueous environnent. The in vitro stressed skin cell test, which was successively applied to the aqueous solutions, revealed through specific biochemical markers the different effects of some water binding molecules on skin protection and recovery. This new approach was eventually con-firmed by in vivo study models. The testing protocol we applied was the one which is generally used for photo-aging studies: the microrelief and the elasticity of skin submitted to UV and surfactant stress were determined alter prolonged use of the product by volunteers and a microstructure evaluation of the dermoepidermal junction was carried out. The in vivo results obtained for some bio-physical parameters of the skin of aged volunteers were in agreement both with the theoretical (in silico) and biological (in vitro) findings. Moreover, the results show that, as a consequence of their chemical structures, osmolytes exhibit different aggregation states in aqueous solution and, when properly combined, show synergistic effects in the protection of the native folded structure of proteins. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19305 [article]

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Multicompartmental protection against toxic glycation late products with a "biobetter" dipeptide / Barbara Morand in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013) . - p. 177-184 Titre : Multicompartmental protection against toxic glycation late products with a "biobetter" dipeptide Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Barbara Morand, Auteur ; Christelle Golebiewski, Auteur ; Jessica Guglielmi, Auteur ; Pascale Prouheze, Auteur ; Mélanie Mollet, Auteur ; Patrick Lafitte, Auteur ; Jean-François Nicolaÿ, Auteur ; Mathilde Fréchet, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 177-184 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Composés carbonylés Glycation Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dicarbonyl species such as methylglyoxal and glyoxal are toxic late products (but not end products) of the glycation process that readily react with extracellular matrix proteins and also intracellular cytoplasmic or nuclear targets. These reactive species have thus a major impact on cellular metabolism and actively participate in accelerated skin aging. We designed through a structure-activity relationship study a specific scavenger (DAPHIS) and compared the properties of this compound with those of reference dicarbonyl scavengers and the template antiglycation natural dipeptides carnosine and carcinine. DAPHIS is a bioavailable peptide. It protects the highly sensitive extracellular protein fibrillin-1. Several in vitro tests highlighted the intra-cellular damage provoked by dicarbonyls. We could show that DAPHIS protects proteins, and in particular type I collagen, from extensive crosslinking by glyoxal or methylglyoxal. It was more efficient than aminoguanidine (a gold standard for dicarbonyl scavenging) and its parent peptides carnosine and carcinine. An ex vivo test with human skin expiants showed that DAPHIS deposited on the surface of human skin expiants limits dicarbonylmediated damage in the dermis. In human fibroblasts, glyoxal induces the formation of large aggregates of a cytosolic protein, vimentin, which results in a decreased contractile capacity of the fibroblasts (decreased traction on extracellular fibrils). DAPHIS prevented vimentin aggregation and preserved the contractile power of fibroblasts in a dermal equivalent model. This clearly indicated that protection of fibroblasts has a direct effect on preservation of skin mechanical properties. Final& in the nuclear compartment DA-PHIS could protect dicarbonyl-sensitive histone proteins (both glyoxal and methyl-glyoxal), combating crosslinking and nuclear advanced glycation end product formation. It completely prevented histone damage, while the parent dipeptides carnosine and carcinine had no protective effect and reference scavengers were less effective. Taken together, these results demonstrate that we have designed a superior dicarbonyl scavenger, a "biobetter" pep-tide, that protects preferential targets of these toxic late products of glycation. Clearly, a high efficiency was required for these sensitive targets, and "regular" scavengers were not suitable. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Dicarbonyl scavening assay - eGFP fluorescence assay - eGFP glycation assessment - Collagen crosslinking assay - Ex vivo test on human skin explants exposed to methylglyoxal - Cell proliferation assay - Cytosolic compartment - Nuclear compartment - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Reactivity assessment - Protection of the model protein eGFP - In vitro protection of collagen (extracellular matrix) - Ex vivo protection of extracellular matrix proteins of the dermis - Protection of cutaneous cells - Protection of the intracellular protein vimentin - Protection of nuclear protein histones Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19306 [article]

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A histological study highlighting new targets for stretch mark correction / Christine Jeanmaire in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013) . - p. 187-191 Titre : A histological study highlighting new targets for stretch mark correction Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Christine Jeanmaire, Auteur ; Solène Mine, Auteur ; Philippe Moser, Auteur ; Louis Danoux, Auteur ; Olga Freis, Auteur ; Andreas Rathjens, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 187-191 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Elasticité Peau -- Histologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vergetures Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Striae distensae, or stretch marks, are linear scars in the dermis which arise from rapid stretching of the skin over weakened connective tis-sue. ln order to best characterize stretch marks, we first performed a histological study comparing ab-dominal skin exhibiting a mature stretch mark and the adjacent nor-mal skin obtained from female do-nors. Based on the results of this study we propose a solution for treating existing stretch marks with an active ingredient of plant origin. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Histological study of stretch marks - Active ingredient - Elastic fiber disruption by elastase - Evaluation of extracellular matrix synthesis by human fibroblasts - Clinical evaluation - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Histological study of mature stretch marks - Beneficial actions on stretch marks - Protection against elastic fiber disruption by elastase - Increase in activity of fibroblats recently formed stretch marks - Clinically proven stretch mark reduction Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19307 [article]

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