A novel non-invasive evaluation method of cornified envelope maturation in the stratum corneum provides a new insight for skin care cosmetics / Tetsuji Hirao in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003) . - p. 103-109 Titre : A novel non-invasive evaluation method of cornified envelope maturation in the stratum corneum provides a new insight for skin care cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tetsuji Hirao, Auteur ; Motoji Takahashi, Auteur ; Katsuko Kikuchi, Auteur ; Tadashi Terui, Auteur ; Hachiro Tagami, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 103-109 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Stratum  corneum'  'Enveloppe  cornifiée'  Involucrine  Transglutaminase  'Méthode  non-invasive' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cornified envelopes, which are rigid and insoluble structures surrounding the corneocytes, are assembled by cross-linking of several precursor proteins by transglutaminases and provide the basis for barrier function of the stratum corneum. We have recently established a novel double staining method to evaluate the level of cornified envelope maturity in stratum corneum samples collected by non-invasive tape stripping, in order to examine the relationship between cornified envelope maturation and barrier function. This method is based on both loss of involucrin antigenicity and acquisition of hydrophobicity during cornified envelope maturation. We applied it to various kinds of skin and found that immature cornified envelopes were abundant not only in involved areas of inflammatory dermatoses, such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, but also in the face of healthy subjects, and were associated with impaired barrier function of the stratum corneum. The appearance of immature cornified envelope in the face was heterogeneous and was not dependent on the race or age of the subjects. Ex-vivo incubation of the outermost stratum corneum of the face in a humidified environment resulted in conversion of immature cornified envelopes to mature cornified envelopes, mediated by transglutaminases. This maturation process was inhibited under low humidity conditions and recovered on application of moisturizers to stratum corneum samples prior to the incubation. These results suggest that immature cornified envelopes in the face retain the potential ability to mature and that moisturization helps the maturation. These ex-vivo results were consistent with in-vivo findings that immature cornified envelopes in the face were increased in winter season, and that cornified envelope maturation was promoted by daily skin care treatment with a moisturizing cream. Although many studies on the stratum corneum barrier function have been carried out mainly focusing on the role of the intercellular lipids, our present studies may provide the basis for a new approach to skin care cosmetics that will promote proper assembly of the stratum corneum through promoting the maturation of cornified envelopes. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10594 [article]

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Scientific characterization of subclinical skin changes by noninvasive biophysical methods for development of more efficacious skincare products / Hachiro Tagami in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 10, N° 1 (01-02/2007)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 10, N° 1 (01-02/2007) . - p. 15-25 Titre : Scientific characterization of subclinical skin changes by noninvasive biophysical methods for development of more efficacious skincare products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hachiro Tagami, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 15-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Cornéothérapie  'Peau  sèche'  du  visage'  Hydratation  'Dermatoses  subcliniques'  'Stratum  corneum'  Caractérisation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In 1966, after finishing only my first year of a residency program, I went to the US to study for 2.5 years with Dr Albert M. Kligman the analysis of functional properties of various skin changes in vivo using aged skin, various types of dermatitis and topically applied steroid-induced atrophy as experimental models. Ten years later, I luckily found that measurements of high frequency conductance and capacitance of the skin enable us to evaluate the skin surface hydration state that determines the softness and smoothness of the skin and in particular to detect even subtle skin changes induced by changes in our environmental or by the application of skincare products and cosmetics. Employing such noninvasive biophysical instruments, I have analyzed the functional properties of normal and abnormal skin changes including subclinical skin changes such as atopic xerosis, senile xerosis, scars and effects of various topical and systemic agents. From these studies it became apparent that as long as a certain level of barrier function was retained skin surface hydration is a more important factor for enjoying a good quality of life. We also succeeded in confirming the effect of corneotherapy, the term so pertinently suggested by Dr Kligman for the beneficial effects of skincare products. We could show that their daily application definitely improves the condition of subclinical skin problems. Further progress in such instrumental analysis of skin properties will greatly aid us in the future in selecting a more desirable skincare product on an individual basis. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10424 [article]

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