Blue light and premature skin aging - New in vivo test method / Dorothée Dähnhardt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 1/2 (01-02/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 1/2 (01-02/2022) . - p. 28-32 Titre : Blue light and premature skin aging - New in vivo test method Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Dorothée Dähnhardt, Auteur ; A. V. Seebach, Auteur ; S. Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer, Auteur ; Doerte Segger, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 28-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie Etude in vivo Lumière artificielle -- Effets physiologiques Lumière bleue Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The harmful effects of blue light rays on the skin are increasingly becoming the focus of the cosmetics industry and consumers. So far, only a few test methods for measuring the effects of blue light on the skin have been described in the literature. Direct detection methods that show the immediate effects of blue light on the collagen network of the skin are still missing. In the work presented here, a new test method for measuring the effect of blue light on the skin is presented. The skin of volunteer subjects was irradiated with a light source with a narrow emission spectrum and low-dose blue light (6 J/cm2). Before irradiation, and 1 hour respectively 24 hours after irradiation, we were able to detect the increase in MMP-1 concentration and the decrease in type 1 procollagen in the blister fluid of the suction blisters. We were able to visualize the collagen network with the help of scanning electron microscopy (SEM) on the underside of the suction blister roofs and quantitatively evaluate it with the help of an image analysis. Here, too, after blue light treatment, there was an increasing degradation of the collagen fibers as well as a decrease in the length of the collagen strands. The presented study can be used as an effective in vivo test method for products that want to reduce the negative effects of blue light on the skin and reduce premature skin aging. Note de contenu : - Subjects and study design - Blue light irradiation - Generation of suction blisters - Determination of procollagen 1 and MMP-1 - Scanning electron microscopy and image analysis En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cwcyn2Xjr8yBCeuXgN7aDj2IN9MX-wql/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37102 [article]

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Impact of cleansing products on the skin surface pH / Uwe Aßmus in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 1 (01-02-03/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 1 (01-02-03/2013) . - p. 17-24 Titre : Impact of cleansing products on the skin surface pH Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Uwe Aßmus, Auteur ; Bernhard Banowski, Auteur ; Michael Brock, Auteur ; Jessica Erasmy, Auteur ; Andreas Fitzner, Auteur ; Uta Kortemeier, Auteur ; Silke Langer, Auteur ; Sven Munke, Auteur ; Hartmut Schmidt-Lewerkühne, Auteur ; Doerte Segger, Auteur ; Gunja Springmann, Auteur ; Claudia Wood, Auteur ; Jürgen Blaak, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 17-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH -- Mesure Savon Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The project was conducted to evaluate the effect on the skin surface pH of application of surfactant systems of different pH. Enhancement of the physiological stratum corneum pH leads to abnormal epidermal barrier function. Skin cleansing products are known to influence the skin surface pH. Studies have shown that various effects on the skin surface pH are related to a pH shift and restoration. Because of the varying results, a literature survey and a multicenter study were performed to evaluate the effect of skin cleansing on skin surface pH. The literature survey was conducted on the topic "Influence of cleansing products on skin pH". Moreover, a controlled and randomized multicenter study was performed with 63 healthy male and female subjects. The skin surface pH was measured before and after a standardized washing procedure with three different cleansing products and water. Publications since 1970 reveal different methods, conditions, panels and effects on skin surface pH. The changes in skin surface pH described after skin cleansing vary ±0 to +3.0 units. Biophysical measurements show that not only the product pH but also the combination of surfactants is a crucial factor in maintaining the natural skin pH. Finding the optimal ratio of surfactants in combination with an acidic product pH between 4 and 5 will be an important challenge for cosmetic chemists in the future. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=17828 [article]

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Multicenter study on measurement of the natural pH of the skin surface / Doerte Segger in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 10, N° 2 (04-05/2007)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 10, N° 2 (04-05/2007) . - p. 107-110 Titre : Multicenter study on measurement of the natural pH of the skin surface Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Doerte Segger, Auteur ; Uwe Aßmus, Auteur ; Michael Brock, Auteur ; Jessica Erasmy, Auteur ; P. Finkel, Auteur ; Andreas Fitzner, Auteur ; Helgard Heuss, Auteur ; Uta Kortemeier, Auteur ; Sven Munke, Auteur ; Thomas Rheinländer, Auteur ; H. Schmidt-Lewerkuhne, Auteur ; Werner Schneider, Auteur ; Gabriele Weser, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 107-110 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'pH  naturel  'Peau  humaine'  'Avant-bras' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Characterization of the skin's natural state is very important for understanding skin functions and describing disturbances of skin function. In the field of cosmetics and dermatologicals the natural pH of the skin surface plays an important role in the development of products with a skin neutral pH. In a multicenter study the natural pH of the skin surface (exception of underarm and genital areas), was to be measured. It was to be determined whether gender-specific differences in the pH occur. The skin surface pH was measured on the inside of the forearms in 222 volunteers (147 female, 75 male) using the skin pH meters of the respective institutes. The pH was measured in triplicate on adjacent areas 24 h after the last contact of the measuring site with water, topical applications and an intensive washing procedure. The values of the skin surface pH were 4.9 (arithmetic mean). The 95% interval was between 4.1 and 5.8. The pH on the forearm of the male volunteers was slightly lower than that of the females. The difference was statistically significant (p < 0.01; 4.8 to 5.0). The authors suggest that the GDCh recommendations for the claims »skin neutral pH«, »ideal pH« or »skin-friendly pH« should be revised and propose a pH range of 4.1 to 5.8 for the main body areas excluding the underarm and genital areas. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10419 [article]

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Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach / Anika Bluemke in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 377-393 Titre : Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Anika Bluemke, Auteur ; Annika P. Ring, Auteur ; Jeannine Immeyer, Auteur ; Anke Hoff, Auteur ; Tanya Eisenberg, Auteur ; Wolfram Gerwat, Auteur ; Franziska Meyer, Auteur ; Sabrina Breitkreutz, Auteur ; Lina M. Klinger, Auteur ; Johanna M. Brandner, Auteur ; Marietta Seifert, Auteur ; Doerte Segger, Auteur ; Frank Rippke, Auteur ; Dorothea Schweiger, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 377-393 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Bakuchiol Le Bakuchiol est un méroterpène (composé chimique à structure terpénoïde partielle) de la classe des terpénophénols. On le trouve dans Psoralea corylifolia et dans Otholobium pubescens. (wikipedia) Dermo-cosmétologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Skin ageing is a multifactorial process involving formation of reactive oxygen species, consecutive inflammation with reduced epidermal and dermal cell viability and resulting damage to the extracellular matrix. Effective dermocosmetic treatment modalities should ideally address these hallmarks in a holistic approach. Here, we determined the corresponding activity profile of bakuchiol, a plant-derived meroterpene, in an array of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies and compared it to retinol, currently considered as gold standard in topical antiageing cosmetics. - Methods : The antioxidative capacity and power of bakuchiol and retinol were analysed by measuring 2,2′-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) reduction via its absorption decay and electron spin resonance spectroscopy, respectively. Effects on prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), macrophage migration inhibitory factor (MIF), fibroblast growth factor 7 (FGF7), collagen type I and VII (COL1A1, COL7A1), fibronectin (FN) levels as well as the metabolization of water-soluble tetrazolium 1 (WST-1) were determined in human dermal fibroblasts. Epidermal regeneration was assessed utilizing an in vitro wound healing model. FN protein levels were analysed ex vivo after treatment with a formulation containing bakuchiol, retinol or vehicle using suction blister fluid. Skin condition improvement was determined in vivo in a split-face comparison study after application of bakuchiol or vehicle. - Results : In contrast to retinol, bakuchiol demonstrated high antioxidative efficacy. Levels of PGE2 and MIF were significantly decreased by both bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol but not retinol significantly increased FGF7 protein levels. WST-1 metabolization levels were significantly augmented by bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol and retinol application led to a significant augmentation of COL1A1, COL7A1 and FN protein levels. Wounds supplemented with bakuchiol but not retinol displayed a significant increase in epidermis regeneration. Clinically, areas treated with a bakuchiol-containing formulation showed a statistically significant increase in FN protein values after a 4-week application compared to untreated areas and areas treated with vehicle. - Conclusion : These data provide evidence for the multidirectional efficacy of bakuchiol against cellular hallmarks of skin ageing. Its activity profile shares some common features with retinol but demonstrates several hitherto unknown biopositive effects in our studies, namely stimulation of the critical extracellular matrix component FN, and accelerated epidermal regeneration and wound healing. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test materials - In vitro studies - In vivo studies I and II - Study I : Ex vivo determination of FN protein levels - Study II : In vivo determination of skin condition improvement - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : In vitro studies - Study I: Ex vivo determination of FN protein levels - Study II : In vivo determination of skin condition improvement In vivo studies : Tolerability DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12784 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OjIAr7zsVF9vrJc0smRlFvAEIpWDsK46/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38137 [article]

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