An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications / Jürgen Blaak in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022) . - p. 1-9 Titre : An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Jürgen Blaak, Auteur ; Peter Staib, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 1-9 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides gras Antioxydants Dermo-cosmétologie Huile d'onagre L'onagre est une plante herbacée bisannuelle de la famille des onagracées. Caractérisée par des fleurs jaunes parfumées, qui s’ouvrent à la tombée de la nuit, elle est surnommée "primevère du soir" et "belle de nuit". Le fruit contient des petites graines noires très riches en acides gras, desquelles sont extraites l’huile d’onagre (réputée pour ses vertus médicinales). Le nom "onagr" vient de la ressemblance de la forme des feuilles avec celle des oreilles de l’âne sauvage du même nom. Séchée, la racine de l’onagre a une odeur de vin, ce qui expliquerait son étymologie latine "oenothera", du grec oinos (vin) et théro (conserver) (3). Il existe environ 80 espèces d'onagre. La plus répandue est l'onagre bisannuelle (Oenothera biennis). Ses feuilles, racines, fruits et graines sont comestibles. L'onagre est originaire d’Amérique du Nord. Les Amérindiens la cultivaient pour ses propriétés médicinales. Ils l’utilisaient notamment sous forme de cataplasme contre les affections cutanées. L’onagre est arrivée en Europe au XVIIème siècle. Présentée sous le nom de "panacée du roi", elle est rapidement devenue un remède populaire. L'huile d’onagre contient des acides gras poly-insaturés de type oméga 6 : plus de 65% d'acide linoléique et 7% à 14% d'acide gamma-linolénique. Elle contient aussi 5 à 11% d’acide gras mono-insaturés de type oméga 9, l'acide oléique, et des acides gras saturés : 2 à 3% d'acide stéarique, 5 à 7% d'acide palmitique. Elle est aussi composée de vitamines E et F, d'acides triterpéniques et de polyphénols. Ces composés lui confèreraient des propriétés antioxydantes et anti-inflammatoires. L'acide gamma-linolénique est un précurseur de la production des prostaglandines E1, qui jouent un rôle dans la baisse de l’inflammation par exemple. L'acide linoléique contrôle les taux de cholestérol. L’onagre est originaire d’Amérique du Nord. Les Amérindiens l’utilisaient pour ses propriétés médicinales. Riches en divers acides gras et vitamines, la plante aiderait à soulager les démangeaisons de la peau sèche, et agirait comme astringent cosmétique. Huile essentielle d'amande douce Huiles et graisses végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Phytostérols Vitamine E Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Renewed consumer and industry interest in natural ingredients has led to a large growth of natural cosmetics. This has put pressure on formulation skills and product claims when it comes to using natural compounds. Taking a strategic and comprehensive approach in viewing natural ingredients, including natural oils, as ‘active’ ingredients rather than just providing for so-called ‘natural’ claims, aids both innovation and development. Given the ever-increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients, and more importantly the demand for effective natural ingredients including plant oils, it is important for the cosmetic industry to re-evaluate them in this context. - Method : The objectives of this review are to provide an update of three popular cosmetic plant oils -Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba – in terms of their cosmetic applications as ‘active’ ingredients. This review highlights the activity of these oils, in the management of dry skin, ageing skin, juvenile skin, atopic dermatitis, scalp conditions and their wider potential. Attention is given to formulation considerations where the content of these oils impacts product oxidation, skin penetration and stratum corneum homeostasis. - Results : Benefits of these oils have been well documented both pre-clinically and clinically. Historically, they have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years for their management and treatment of various skin and other ailments. Given the discrepancies in some clinical data presented for a variety of dermatoses, the importance of the choice of oil and how to formulate with them within the context of the epidermal barrier function, skin penetration and toxicity cannot be underestimated. Care should be taken in terms of the quality and stability of theses oils, as well as ensuring best formulation type, if the reported activities of these oils are to be achieved with consistency. Despite discrepancies in the literature and questionable study designs, it is clear that Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba oils do have skin care benefits for both adult and juvenile applications. - Conclusion : They are effective ingredients for skin care preparations to strengthen stratum corneum integrity, recovery and lipid ratio. Nevertheless, further experimental data are required concerning the impact on stratum corneum physiology and structure. Note de contenu : - Lipid profile - Antioxidant profiles - Dermato-cosmetic effects : Dry and xerotic skinAtopic dermatitis- Other dermatoses- Newborn and juvenile skin - Aged and very old skin - Formulation considerations - Table 1 : (A) Key fatty acid composition of sweet almond oil, evening primrose oil and jojoba oil. (B) Key phytosterol content of sweet almond oil, evening primrose oil and jojoba oil - Table 2 : Tocopherol content of Sweet Almond oil, Evening Primrose oil and Jojoba oil DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12758 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xfq8vY51SkVFidpMSr8322n-Mt3FquCM/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37255 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

Formulating with sweet almond oil / Sam Greenberg in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 94-96 Titre : Formulating with sweet almond oil Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sam Greenberg, Auteur ; Jeff Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 94-96 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides gras Huile essentielle d'amande douce Produits naturels Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Since before the time of ancient Rome, sweet almond oil has been an effective moisturiser and beauty treatment. These civilisations prized beauty at least as much as contemporary populations and the purity of their skin oils, salves and lotions quite literally set the standard for the unadulterated, natural ingredients we use today. The same rich, therapeutic emollient qualities of pure sweet almond oil that have softened skin and conditioned hair over the centuries continue to add value to health and beauty products today. The growth in beauty products labelled and promoted as "natural" or "all natural" has skyrocketed in the last decade and now represent 41 per cent of the total personal care products market, according to market research firm Nielsen. This rapid growth is due to increased almond oil demand in the personal care industry. Blue Diamond's expertise has protected the quality and integrity of its products for over a century. Our commitment to producing only 100% pure sweet almond oil drives the effectiveness and quality when formulating premium cosmetics and personal care products. It connects with our history as a global supplier dedicated to superior quality and service. Note de contenu : - Understanding sweet almond oil at a molecular level - Sweet almond oil's unique balance of acids and fats - Testing assures purity. Purity assures efficacy - Educated consumers want authenticity - The endless possibilities of the almond - Table : Fatty acid profiles compared En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BgJv6uQ6OuBPOeR8QZ2gMtbMCgcShiO-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30456 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
19931	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Formulation guide in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 3, N° 4 (11/2010)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 3, N° 4 (11/2010) . - p. 79-86 Titre : Formulation guide Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2010 Article en page(s) : p. 79-86 Note générale : Fiches formulation Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amande douce et constituants Antiâge Antiâge:Antirides Cosmétiques Cosmétiques pour nourrissons Déodorants Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Huile de jojoba Huile essentielle d'amande douce Maquillage Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Produits hydratants Rouges à lèvres Savon shampooings Vaporisateurs Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : 10 marques présentent 24 formulations de produits cosmétiques. Note de contenu : - ARIZONA CHEMICAL : - Anti-âge cream - BASILDON CHEMICAL COMPANY LIMITED : - Light face cream - Clear, conditioning shampoo for enhanced gloss - BIOCHEMICA INTERNATIONAL : - Biobaby oil - Coffee body buttercreme (fragrance-free) - Cold process soap using exotic butters & oils (for normal skin) - CORNELIUS : - Dual protection day cream - Liquid elixir for pore minimisation - Hideawy concealer - DOW CORNING : - So satin ! comfort lipstick - Mango citrus bliss body butter - EVONIK GOLSCHMIDT GmbH : - Natural wellness body lotion - Dual-action wrinkle serum - W/O lotion with hyacare 50 - THE HALLSTAR COMPANY : - Broad spectrum SPF 47, PFA (PPD)~24 sunscreen cream - Nonalcoholic SPF 42 PFA (PPD)~15 sunscreen gel - Broad spectrum SPF 60+, PFA (PPD)~30 sunscreen spray - HYDRIOR : - W/O moisturiser - OW/ skin cream with jojoba oil (PEG- and paraffin oil free) - Lotion with almond oil (PEG- and paraffin oil free) - JEEN INTERNATIONAL CORPORATION l: - Jeelux DBF2T conditioning glide lipstick - Skin base, DMBF - SEDERMA : - Soft for longer deodorant with kelisoft - Anti-ageing radiance cream with chromocare En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V5_1Wmiikhw0YUg4U6SrsMUFkLgE0ssH/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40992 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
012589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state : a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy / C. Choe in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 482-493 Titre : Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state : a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : C. Choe, Auteur ; J. Schleusener, Auteur ; S. Choe, Auteur ; J. Ri, Auteur ; Jürgen Lademann, Auteur ; Maxim E. Darvin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 482-493 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cornéocytes Dermo-cosmétologie Gonflement (physique) Huile essentielle d'amande douce Jojoba et constituants Microscopie confocale Raman Peau -- Physiologie Pénétration (physique) Vaseline Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown. - Methods : The action of plant-derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral-derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils' influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth-dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated. - Results : A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum-treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil-treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40-70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0-30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil-treated skin was significantly lower at 50-70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil-treated skin was lower at 0-30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β-sheet content in mineral-derived oil-treated skin and changed towards an increase of α-helix content in plant-derived oil-treated skin. - Conclusion : The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC's water-transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non-swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Applied substances - Volunteers - Confocal Raman microspectroscopy - Data analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : SC thickness - Depth profiles of water and NMF - Water mobility and the hydrogen bonding state of water - Secondary structure of keratin - Tertiary structure of keratin - DISCUSSION : Effect of oil occlusion on the hydrogen bonding states of water molecules - Effect of oil application on the secondary and tertiary structure of keratin - Swelling of corneocytes and water binding with NMF, lipids and keratin - Table 1 : The SC thickness (μm) of untreated skin and skin treated with four different oils in μm. The symbol '*' denotes P-values < 0.05, the symbol '**' denotes P-values < 0.01 between oil-treated and untreated skin - Table 2 : Raman features measured on the pure oils and untreated SC. The symbol '–' means absence of Raman contribution DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12653 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y9mzYrs5yKXHSjToWDknu7oksvfM7fVK/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35413 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

---

1 (1 - 4 / 4)