Artificial Intelligence in hair research : A proof-of-concept study on evaluating hair assembly features / Gabriela Daniels in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 405-418 Titre : Artificial Intelligence in hair research : A proof-of-concept study on evaluating hair assembly features Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Gabriela Daniels, Auteur ; Slobodanka Tamburic, Auteur ; Sergio Benini, Auteur ; Jane Randall, Auteur ; Tracey Sanderson, Auteur ; Mattia Savardi, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 405-418 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Apprentissage automatique L'apprentissage automatique (en anglais : machine learning, litt. "apprentissage machine"), apprentissage artificiel ou apprentissage statistique est un champ d'étude de l'intelligence artificielle qui se fonde sur des approches mathématiques et statistiques pour donner aux ordinateurs la capacité d'"apprendre" à partir de données, c'est-à-dire d'améliorer leurs performances à résoudre des tâches sans être explicitement programmés pour chacune. Plus largement, il concerne la conception, l'analyse, l'optimisation, le développement et l'implémentation de telles méthodes. (Wikipedia) Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux décolorés Détection de défauts (Ingénierie) Intelligence artificielle Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The first objective of this study was to apply computer vision and machine learning techniques to quantify the effects of haircare treatments on hair assembly and to identify correctly whether unknown tresses were treated or not. The second objective was to explore and compare the performance of human assessment with that obtained from artificial intelligence (AI) algorithms. - Methods : Machine learning was applied to a data set of hair tress images (virgin and bleached), both untreated and treated with a shampoo and conditioner set, aimed at increasing hair volume whilst improving alignment and reducing the flyway of the hair. The automatic quantification of the following hair image features was conducted : local and global hair volumes and hair alignment. These features were assessed at three time points: t0 (no treatment), t1 (two treatments) and t2 (three treatments). Classifier tests were applied to test the accuracy of the machine learning. A sensory test (paired comparison of t0 vs t2) and an online front image-based survey (paired comparison of t0 vs t1, t1 vs t2, t0 vs t2) were conducted to compare human assessment with that of the algorithms. - Results : The automatic image analysis identified changes to hair volume and alignment which enabled the successful application of the classification tests, especially when the hair images were grouped into untreated and treated groups. The human assessment of hair presented in pairs confirmed the automatic image analysis. The image assessment for both virgin hair and bleached only partially agreed with the analysis of the subset of images used in the online survey. One hypothesis is that treatments changed somewhat the shape of the hair tress, with the effect being more pronounced in bleached hair. This made human assessment of flat images more challenging than when viewed directly in 3D. Overall, the bleached hair exhibited effects of higher magnitude than the virgin hair. - Conclusions : This study illustrated the capacity of artificial intelligence for hair image detection and classification, and for image analysis of hair assembly features following treatments. The human assessment partially confirmed the image analysis and highlighted the challenges imposed by the presentation mode. Note de contenu : - Hair assembly volume, alignment and flyaway - Hair assembly properties and Artificial Intelligence - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair tresses and treatment - Image dataset - Automatic hair segmentation - Automatic quantification of hair assembly features - Timepoint recognition on single hair images with AI - Online paired image-comparison test with naïve assessors (n = 100) - Paired difference test with naïve assessors )n = 50) - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Hair volume analysis - Fibre alignment analysis - Machine learning: treatment order test - Machine learning : timepoint recognition - Online paired image-comparison test : image analysis - Online paired image-comparison test : human assessment - Visual paired difference test - DISCUSSION : Image data analysis and machine learning - Classifiers tests - The online survey and AI - Visual paired difference test - Table 1 : Global and local hair volumes for the three time points of the training data set - Table 2 : Fibre alignment indices for three time points of the training data set - Table 3 : Confusion matrices. Correct results in bold - Table 4 : Results of the online paired image-comparison test - Table 5 : Fibre alignment indices for the selected image subset used in the online survey, based on three images for each tress - Table 6 : Results of the online paired image-comparison test - Table 7 : Volume and hair straightness comparisons between the different time points reported in the survey (Table 6) and their agreement with AI-generated GHV - Table 8 : Results of the visual paired difference test (n = 50 responses) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12706 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RnhXaRtILFJxcQM1zyk09SH7pQcXM1Mh/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36675 [article]

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Comparing hair tensile testing in the wet and the dry state : Possibilities and limitations for detecting changes of hair properties due to chemical and physical treatments / Franz J. Wortmann in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 4 (08/2022) . - p. 421-430 Titre : Comparing hair tensile testing in the wet and the dry state : Possibilities and limitations for detecting changes of hair properties due to chemical and physical treatments Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Franz J. Wortmann, Auteur ; Jutta M. Quadflieg, Auteur ; Gabriele Wortmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 421-430 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse de variance En statistique, l'analyse de la variance (terme souvent abrégé par le terme anglais ANOVA : ANalysis Of VAriance) est un ensemble de modèles statistiques utilisés pour vérifier si les moyennes des groupes proviennent d'une même population. Les groupes correspondent aux modalités d'une variable qualitative (p. ex. variable : traitement; modalités : programme d'entrainement sportif, suppléments alimentaires ; placebo) et les moyennes sont calculés à partir d'une variable continue (p. ex. gain musculaire). Ce test s'applique lorsque l'on mesure une ou plusieurs variables explicatives catégorielles (appelées alors facteurs de variabilité, leurs différentes modalités étant parfois appelées "niveaux") qui ont de l'influence sur la loi d'une variable continue à expliquer. On parle d'analyse à un facteur lorsque l'analyse porte sur un modèle décrit par un seul facteur de variabilité, d'analyse à deux facteurs ou d'analyse multifactorielle sinon. (Wikipedia) Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux décolorés Cheveux humides Cheveux secs Essais dynamiques Justification de l'allégation Statistique Traction (mécanique) Traitement thermique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : This investigation focuses, first, on the question to which extent wet and dry tensile tests on human hair may be considered as leading to independent results. Second, we try to assess the sensitivities of wet and dry-testing to detect changes of mechanical properties. Specifically, we were interested in separating changes, which were induced by a combination of a chemical (oxidation/bleach) and a physical treatment (heat). - Methods : The basis for our study are data for the tensile properties (wet and dry) of a set of untreated and bleached hair tresses, which were submitted to the same schedule of thermal treatments. As characteristic tensile parameters, we chose modulus (E), break extension (BE), and break stress (BS). First, parameters were analysed across treatments for the correlations between wet and dry data. Second, we applied two-factor analysis of variance to assess the effects of the factors and their potential interaction. - Results : Correlations for the dry versus wet data show only a weak relationship for E, while coefficients of determination (R2) are quite high for BE and BS. Two-factor ANOVA enables to quantify the various contributions to the Total Sum-of-Squares for all three parameters. We show that the parameters respond quite differently to the chemical and the thermal treatments as well as to testing conditions (wet or dry). It is of interest to note that the interaction between the chemical and the physical treatment is generally quite weak. For the interpretation of the results, we use the concept of the humidity-dependent as well as strain-induced glass transition of the amorphous matrix. - Conclusions : The independence hypothesis for dry and wet tensile measurements only applies for modulus. Overall, we consider modulus (wet) as the best tensile measure of fibre damage when assessing chemical and/or physical treatments. Under ambient conditions (dry), break stress is shown to be a feasible alternative measure. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and methods - Choice of variables, basic data, and statistical analysis - Correlations wet vs dry - 2-Factor ANOVA - DISCUSSION : The independence hypothesis - Two-Factor ANOVA - Table 1 : Summary of basic statistics for the investigated variables for natural/chemically untreated (N) and bleached (B) hair - Table 2 : Parameter values of the regression equations, when plotting variable means (n = 8) for dry vs wet testing - Table 3 : Summary of the various sum-of-squares (SS) components for the three chosen variables (wet and dry), according to Equations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12796 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lf_6im_y7ozRCbt5z_EPSBMWt4BrXRLh/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38142 [article]

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Eriodictyon angustifolium extract, but not Eriodictyon californicum extract, reduces human hair greying / N. Taguchi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 336-345 Titre : Eriodictyon angustifolium extract, but not Eriodictyon californicum extract, reduces human hair greying Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : N. Taguchi, Auteur ; T. Hata, Auteur ; E. Kamiya, Auteur ; T. Homma, Auteur ; A. Kobayashi, Auteur ; H. Aoki, Auteur ; T. Kunisada, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 336-345 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux décolorés Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Mélanogénèse Produits capillaires Statistique Stérubine La stérubine (S-7-méthoxy-3',4',5-trihydroxyflavanone) est une flavanone (C16H14O6) qui a la capacité de masquer l'amertume de composé amer. Cette flavanone a été identifiée dans un extrait des feuilles de l'Herba Santa (Eriodictyon californicum)2, une plante poussant dans le nord du Mexique et dans l'État de Californie3. Dans cette même plante, trois autres flavonoïdes ont été identifiés avec la même capacité à modifier le goût : l'ériodictyol, l'homoériodictyol et son sel de sodium (homoériodictyol sodique)2. La flavanone est extraite par un solvant non miscible avec l'eau, ensuite les corps gras sont éliminés. L'extrait est éventuellement préépuré sur charbon actif, puis traité avec une solution à base de sodium ionique. Pour finir, le sel de sodium d'homoériodictyol est précipité et purifié par reprécipitation ou cristallisation à température inférieure à 40 °C. (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Yerba Santa (Eriodictyon angustifolium and Eriodictyon californicum) has been used for many years in traditional medicine. However, the effect of Yerba Santa on melanogenesis has not yet been investigated. We aimed to assess the biological effects of Yerba Santa on hair pigmentation. - Methods : Yerba Santa extracts were assessed for their cytological effects following X-ray irradiation treatment and then tested directly for the prevention of human hair greying. Ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) was utilized to identify the individual extract components. - Results : Eriodictyon angustifolium extract significantly increased melanin synthesis in the melanoma cell line through activation of the WNT/MITF/tyrosinase-signalling pathway. In contrast, E. californicum had no effect on melanin synthesis. E. angustifolium extract also demonstrated a protective effect against the damage induced by X-ray irradiation in human keratinocytes. Application of the extracts to subjects who had grey beards demonstrated a reduced number of grey beard hair per year specifically with the E. angustifolium extract. A significant decrease in grey head hair was also observed after application of E. angustifolium extract. Upregulation of gene expression related to melanin production and WNT signalling was observed after the application of E. angustifolium extract. Sterubin was the most abundant flavonoid detected by UPLC in E. angustifolium extract. In addition, sterubin showed the highest difference in terms of quantity, between E. angustifolium and E. californicum extract. - Conclusion : Eriodictyon angustifolium extract, which is abundant in sterubin, may be suitable as a potential cosmetic and medical agent for the prevention and improvement of hair greying. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of the plant extracts - Cell culsture - Measurement of cellular melanin - Immunohistochemistry - Measurement of cH2AX activation in normal human epidermal keratinocytes after irradiation - Measurement of reactive oxygen species (ROS) - Assessment of mitochondrial mass - Clinical testing - Gene expression analysis - Ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) of Yerba Santa extract - LabCyte MELANO-MODEL - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Ea but not Ec extract increases melanin synthesis and WNT, MITF and TYR expression in a human melanoma cell line - Ea extract shows a suppressive effect on radiation-induced DNA damage and cell death in normal human epithelial keratinocytes - Effect of Ea extract for the prevention and improvement of human beard hair greying - Effect of Ea extract on the prevention and improvement of human head hair greying - Gene expression analysis after Ea and Ec extract application to human skin - The flavonoid compound sterubin is the active component of Ea extract for protection against hair greying DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12620 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lDv84Hi8NfsBnbDLNKlJe4ZEbUhOogAs/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35285 [article]

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Is repair of lightened hair feasible ? Myths and facts on different flair bonding treatments / Thomas Förster in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 2-9 Titre : Is repair of lightened hair feasible ? Myths and facts on different flair bonding treatments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Förster, Auteur ; Thomas Hippe, Auteur ; Georg Knübel, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 2-9 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Cheveux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux décolorés Cosmétiques Essais dynamiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With bright blond hair colors becoming more fashionable in recent years, prevention or even repair of hair damage by lightening has become a strong consumer need. Leading edge research of structural changes in keratin caused by strong oxidative stress has led to several approaches how to counteract this oxidative damage by ingredients capable to form bonds between adjacent keratin chains. An overview presents several ingredients used already in market products acting via different mode-of-actions of keratin bonding. For the class of organic di-acids experimental evidence is given, showing protection of keratin during oxidative damage perceivable also by consumers. Results of tensile strength evaluations as well as multiple grooming tests and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and finally test salon evaluations support the hypothesis that certain di-acids like maleic acid or succinic acid are able to bridge adjacent keratin chains via ionic interactions and/or hydrogen bonds. Note de contenu : - E-MODULI AND BREAK STRESS : Results - Experimental procedure tensile strength - HAIR BREAKAGE MEASUREMENT : Results - Experimental procedure hair breakage - DIFFERENTIAL SCANNING CALORIMETRY (DSC) : Experimental procedure Differential Scanning Calorimetry - TEST SALON EVALUATION - FIGURES : 1. Schematic representation of a succinate salt bridge linking cationic amino acid side chains of two adjacent keratin chains (as working hypothesis) - 2. Schematic representation of the covalent bridge formed by Michael addition of maleic acid grops with cysteine residues of two neighboring keratin chains - 3. Change of E-moduli after 2x lightening with BlondMe Premier lift 9+ - 4. Break stress after 2x lightening with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ - 5. Hair breakage after lightening of hair strands with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ plus Fibreplex N° 1 - 6. Hair breakage after lightening of hair strands with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ plus Fibreplex N° 1, shampoo and Fibreplex N° 2 - 7. Denaturation temperature of hair after treatment with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ - 8. Denaturation enthalpy of hair after treatment with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ - 9. Performance evaluation in the test salon En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mKbiIX-BJ4OYbc0fMKqZeRyPOxJQA02e/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30349 [article]

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