Titre : |
Factors influencing the seam efficiency of goat nappa leathers |
Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
Auteurs : |
K. Phebe, Auteur ; Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Auteur ; K. Krishnaraj, Auteur ; B. Chandrasekaran, Auteur |
Année de publication : |
2012 |
Article en page(s) : |
p. 78-84 |
Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
Langues : |
Américain (ame) |
Catégories : |
Cuir -- Couture Cuir pleine fleur Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux de chèvres Vêtements en cuir
|
Index. décimale : |
675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure |
Résumé : |
Apparel making is the process of making shell structures from flat fabrics or leathers to match the shape of human body. During this process, leathers are subjected to various types of mechanical stresses, which are indispensable for the garment appearance. The present study involves investigating the mechanical properties of goat nappa leathers such as seam strength, breaking strength, seam efficiency, tensile strength, percent elongation, double hole stitch tear strength, flexural rigidity, initial tensile modulus and formability and establishing a relationship between seam efficiency and other mechanical properties. Seam efficiency of goat nappa leathers chosen in this study range from 55 to 76% in both parallel and perpendicular directions to the backbone. It has been observed that breaking strength of goat nappa leathers seems to have a significant influence on seam efficiency among the various mechanical properties studied with a negative correlation (R = –0.92). This means that modifications in fatliquoring and other related leather processing steps may offer low strength goat nappa leathers with more softness leading to enhanced seam efficiency. These results would help tanners and leather garment manufacturers to make appropriate selection of leather processing steps and sewing procedures, thereby avoiding possible economic losses. |
Note de contenu : |
- EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Flexural rigidity - Tensile strength and extension - Initial tensile modulus - Formability - Seam strength - Breaking strength - Stitch tear strength (double hole) - Seam efficiency
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Seam efficiency - Seam efficiency versus seam strength - Seam efficiency versus breaking strength - Seam efficiency versus tensile properties - Seam efficiency versus stitch tear strength (double hole - Seam efficiency versus flexural rigidity - Seam efficiency versus initial tensile modulus - Seam efficiency versus formability |
En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lKg-3bnD_ZNoxOtM2mjRl49IFV3RUpjG/view?usp=drive [...] |
Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14419 |
in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CVII, N° 3 (03/2012) . - p. 78-84