[article]
| Titre : |
Bio-sourced polymers in cosmetic emulsions : a hidden potential of the alginates as thickeners and gelling agents |
| Type de document : |
document électronique |
| Auteurs : |
Daria Terescenco, Auteur ; Lalia Hadj Benali, Auteur ; Fabien Canivet, Auteur ; Maud Benoit le Gelebart, Auteur ; Nicolas Hucher, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2021 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 573-587 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Alginates L'acide alginique et ses dérivés (base conjuguée, sels et esters) les alginates sont des polysaccharides obtenus à partir d'une famille d'algues brunes : les laminaires ou les fucus.
- COMPOSITION CHIMIQUE : L'alginate est un polymère formé de deux monomères liés ensemble : le mannuronate ou acide mannuronique dont certains sont acétylés et le guluronate ou acide guluronique.
L'acide alginique permet la production de fibres d'alginates de sodium et de calcium. Les alginates alcalins forment dans l'eau des solutions colloïdales visqueuses. Si l'acide alginique est insoluble dans l'eau, l'alginate de sodium est lui très soluble dans l'eau, et l'alginate de calcium est seulement soluble en milieu basique, notamment en solutions de savon qui sont presque toujours assez alcalines.
Les alginates peuvent former des gels durs et thermostables utilisés comme additifs alimentaires.
- UTILISATIONS : Les alginates sont utilisés comme épaississants, gélifiants, émulsifiants et stabilisants de produits industriels les plus variés depuis les gelées alimentaires, les produits de beauté, jusqu'aux peintures et aux encres d'imprimerie. L'alginate de propane-1,2-diol (E405), ester de l'acide aliginique, est utilisé, par exemple, pour stabiliser des mousses (vinification, additif de bière, etc.), et est également utilisé dans un procédé de préparation de microcapsules.
Biopolymères
Caractérisation
Chimie analytique
Cosmétiques -- Additifs
Cosmétiques -- Texture
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Epaississants
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gomme de xanthaneLa gomme xanthane est un polyoside obtenu à partir de l'action d'une bactérie, la Xanthomonas campestris. Elle est soluble à froid et est utilisée comme additif alimentaire sous le code E415 pour ses propriétés épaississantes et gélifiantes afin de modifier la consistance des aliments.
Le xanthane est l'un des exopolysaccharides excrétés par divers microorganismes du sol (bactéries notamment). Il joue un rôle important, à l'échelle moléculaire, dans la formation et la conservation des sols3, tout comme le dextrane, le rhamsane ou les succinoglycanes.
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polymères
Surfactants
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
- Objective : The present work aims to investigate the impact of the alginates on the texture properties of cosmetic emulsions. For this purpose, five systems were selected: a classical emulsion without polymer and four emulsions containing polymers, as texture modifiers, at the level of 1%. Two different grades of alginates were chosen: one rich in mannuronic acid and one rich in guluronic acid. The objective was also to evaluate the potential of in-situ gelation during formulation. The guluronic rich sample was gelled to evaluate the effect on the texture properties. Finally, alginates-based systems were compared to the xanthan gum as a bio-sourced polymer reference.
- Methods : The sensory profile of the systems was established through a combination of prediction models and sensory analysis. The emulsion residual films obtained with natural polymers, Alginates and Xanthan Gum used as thickeners, as well as with the gelled version, were similar. However, the structural differences between polymers intervene during the characterisation of the sensory properties “before” and “during” application. A multi-scale physicochemical analysis was used to explain these differences.
- Results : Due to a controlled formulation process, the use of the polymers did not affect the microstructure of the emulsion which remained similar to the control one. The main impact of the polymers was observed on the macroscopic level: both alginates showed their unique textural signature, different from the classical Xanthan Gum. Due to weak structural differences, mechanical and textural properties were very close between the mannuronic rich and guluronic rich samples, when not gelled, compared to other emulsions. However, the molar mass and the mannuronic/guluronic acids ratio were proved to be crucial for the stretching and consistency properties, showing that this structural difference may have an impact when products are handled in traction and compression.
- Conclusion : Meanwhile, the viscoelastic properties and the dynamic viscosity were greatly increased for the emulsion containing the gelled version of the alginate when compared to the classical polymers. The emulsion was also more consistent as proved by the textural analysis, pointing at better stability and suspension potential of the gelled emulsion versus the classical one containing the usual natural thickening agents. |
| Note de contenu : |
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials – Natural Polymers - Methods
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Prediction models - Sensory perception : Characterization of the residual film - Impact of the polymer type on the properties of the emulsions
- Table 1 : List of ingredients used for the O/W emulsions formulations. The polymers introduced in the formulation: Satialgine VCG 171, Algogel VCG 1321, xanthan gum at 1%
- Table 2 : tatistics of the final predictive model established for each sensory attribute (S) from [4], with the following collected parameters
- Table 3 : Definitions and protocols used for the evaluation of the four attributes
- Table 4 : D[4,3], the number and volume mean diameters, obtained by static light scattering measurements for the non-gelled emulsions
- Table 5 : Calculated G' (Pa) and Tan δ values at the plateau ; the plateau length expressed by oscillation strain point at 10% of G' plateau decrease ; as well the standard deviation values of the five studied emulsions |
| DOI : |
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12732 |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CbAD4L8m3eA6sGnckIiBVT9guJLu859t/view?usp=shari [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36861 |
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 573-587
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