Recent patent applications for coffee and coffee by-products as active ingredients in cosmetics / Valéria de Mello in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 3 (06/2023) . - p. 267-287 Titre : Recent patent applications for coffee and coffee by-products as active ingredients in cosmetics Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Valéria de Mello, Auteur ; Gilmar Alves de Mesquita Júnior, Auteur ; Julia Gabriela Eurico Alvim, Auteur ; Juliana de Carvalho da Costa, Auteur ; Fernanda Maria Pinto Vilela, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 267-287 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Biomolécules actives Brevets d'invention Café et constituants Contour des yeux Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Lèvres Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Coffee is one of the most consumed beverages worldwide, and its production and consumption generate large amounts of by-products annually. Coffee by-products and coffee beans are rich in bioactive compounds of great commercial value, including potential applications as active ingredients in skin care products and cosmetic formulations. In addition, there has been growing interest in the use of natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes. Considering the importance of coffee in the world economy, its chemical constituents with potential for cosmetic and dermatological application, and the importance of patents for innovation and technological development, the present study aimed to review recent patents involving coffee and coffee by-product use in cosmetics. - Methods : This review was carried out using Espacenet. The following inclusion criteria were established: patents that included the terms “coffee” and “skin” in the title, abstract and claims and belonged to the classification A61Q, which is related to the “specific use of cosmetics or similar toilet preparations” considering the International Patent Classification (IPC) or Cooperative Patent Classification (CPC). - Results : Considering the 52 patents analysed, the bean was the main way to obtain extracts (39), followed by green beans (7), silverskin (3), peel and pulp (1), pulp (1) and beans and leaves (1). The formulations are mainly intended for use in nonspecific areas of skin (29), eye areas (12), scalp hair (9) and lip skin (2) with claims of anti-ageing, moisturizers, sun protection, hair growth, anti-dandruff, etc. - Conclusion : Coffee and its residues have high amounts of phenolic compounds, caffeine, fatty acids and other substances known to have important biological properties for the skin. Coffee and its by-products are promising ingredients to be incorporated into topical formulations, ensuring skin health benefits and reducing the environmental impact. Note de contenu : - METHODS - Results and discussion : Skin - Eye skin - Scalp skin - Lip skin - PATENTS FOR THE SKIN - PATENTS FOR EYE SKIN - PATENTS FOR SCALP SKIN - PATENTS FOR LIP SKIN - PATENTS PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET - Table 1 : Patents for skin application - Table 2 : Patents for eye skin - Table 3 : Patents for scalp skin - Table 4 : Patents for lip skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Byb5REIXQYNFjKSX2T9y_IaIUgFa7UX1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39558 [article]

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The efficacy of a highly occlusive formulation for dry lips / Eiko Tamura in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 1 (02/2020) . - p. 46-52 Titre : The efficacy of a highly occlusive formulation for dry lips Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eiko Tamura, Auteur ; H. Yasumori, Auteur ; T. Yamamoto, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 46-52 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires Cosmétiques Couche cornée Formulation (Génie chimique) Huiles et graisses Lèvres Lèvres -- Soins et hygiène Matériaux occlusifs Rugosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Since skin on the lips has a lower water content in the stratum corneum (SC) and a higher transepidermal water loss (TEWL) value than skin on the cheek, the lips are usually very dry and rough areas. Therefore, a lip balm approach to increase occlusivity of the lips is generally used to reduce water loss. Although there have been reports of an improvement effect on lip roughness by specific care agents, differences in the effects due to the occlusivity of a formulation without a specific care agent have not been reported. The purpose of this study was to clarify the improvement effect on dryness and roughness of the lips by a highly occlusive formulation consisting of a combination of common oil and wax, not by a specific care agent. - Methods : Twenty Japanese female subjects with normal skin (age range 20-39 years; mean 28.1) were enrolled in this study. A 4-week continuous use test was conducted using samples with low and high occlusivity. The degree of lip roughness and wrinkles was scored, the hollow index was assessed using ANTERA 3D images, and values of capacitance and TEWL were measured. - Results : The hollow index was significantly correlated with both the appearance roughness score and the wrinkle score. The sample with high occlusivity showed significant improvement in the appearance roughness score, wrinkle score, the hollow index and capacitance of the SC. In a comparison between the groups of samples with different occlusive properties, a significant improvement effect in rough appearance was seen in subjects using the highly occlusive formulation. - Conclusion : The hollow index assessed by ANTERA 3D imaging allowed the objective evaluation of the improvement in appearance. In the case of continuous use of the highly occlusive formulation, an improvement of capacitance in the SC, which is most correlated with lip roughness, was obtained after 2 and 4 weeks. These results demonstrate for the first time that a highly occlusive formulation is effective in improving the roughness of the lips, and this effect is due to the difference in the occlusive property not by a specific care agent. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ethics - Subjects - Materials - Measurment of occulisivity - Biophysical measurements of the SC - Degree of lip roughness and wrinkles - ANTERA 3D image analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Before continuous use - Relationship between the appearance score and the hollow index - Relationship between the appearance score and SC parameters - Relationship between the hollow index and SC parameters - Characteristics of lips after continuous use of samples - Changes in appearance score - Changes in the hollow index - Changes in SC functions - Comparison between two groups - DISCUSSION : Correlation betwen visual scores before continuous use and measurement data - Improvement effect by continuous use test DOI : 10.1111/ics.12583 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yhN4WjFj-QVS7CziyaPlEJ_ZmXKmeWrO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33678 [article]

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The roughness of lip skin is related to the ceramide profile in the stratum corneum / Eiko Tamura in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 38, N° 6 (12/2016)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 38, N° 6 (12/2016) . - p. 615-621 Titre : The roughness of lip skin is related to the ceramide profile in the stratum corneum Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eiko Tamura, Auteur ; J. Ishikawa, Auteur ; A. Naoe, Auteur ; T. Yamamoto, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 615-621 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Céramides Un céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire. Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés. La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia) Couche cornée Lèvres Peau -- analyse Rugosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : The structure of skin on the lips is different from skin at other areas of the body; the water content of the stratum corneum (SC) and the barrier function there is low. Therefore, the lips can easily become dry and rough. The SC plays an important role in the barrier and water-holding functions of the skin. Above all, ceramides (CERs) are important SC lipids which maintain SC functions. The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the degree of lip roughness and the CER profile. Methods : Forty-one Japanese female subjects with normal skin (age range 22–52 years; mean 34.1) were enrolled in this study. The degree of lip roughness was scored, the values of capacitance and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured and CER profiles of the SC were analysed using tape-stripping. Results : The degree of lip roughness was related to the capacitance values but not the TEWL values. The roughness level correlated with the levels of CER[NH], CER[NP], CER[AH], CER[EOS] and CER[EOH] and the average carbon numbers of CER[NDS], CER[NH] and CER[NP] but not with the level of total CERs. The capacitance values of the lips were related not only with the levels of total CERs but also with the levels of CER[NH], CER[NP], CER[AH], CER[AP], CER[EOS], CER[EOH] and CER[EOP] and with the average carbon numbers of CER[NDS], CER[NS], CER[NH] and CER[NP]. The TEWL values of the lips were related not only with the levels of total CERs but also with the levels of CER[NH], CER[AH], CER[AP], CER[EOS] and CER[EOH]. Conclusion : The relationship between lip roughness and the CER profile was clarified for the first time. The results suggest that not only the level of total CERs but also the specific CER species and their carbon numbers affect the maintenance of SC function. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ethics - Subjects - Biophysical measurements of the SC - Degree of lip roughness - Stratum corneum stripping and preparation of SC samples - Analysis of CER species - determination of average carbon numbers of CERs - Protein analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Correlation between lip roughness scores and SC parameters - Correlation between lip roughness scores and CER profiles - Correlation between SC parameters and CER profiles - DISCUSSION : Correlation between lip roughness and SC functions - Correlation betweenlip roughness and CER profiles - Correlation between SC functions and CER profiles DOI : 10.1111/ics.12335 En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ics.12335 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27539 [article]

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