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Micro-inflammatory vicious cycle : a new target to delay skin aging / Philippe Moussou in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 3 (07-08-09/2012)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 3 (07-08-09/2012) . - p. 151-158 Titre : Micro-inflammatory vicious cycle : a new target to delay skin aging Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Moussou, Auteur ; Louis Danoux, Auteur ; Florence Henry, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 151-158 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antioxydants Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Neuropeptides Peau -- Inflammation Plasmine Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The age-related chronic low grade up-regulation of the inflammatory response is a major factor underlying the cutaneous aging process. To fight against micro-inflammation and its visible consequence on skin aging, we developed a cosmetic ingredient able to modulate three key pathways : NF-Ï°B, neuropeptides and plasmin activity. Eperua falcata extract was shown in vitro to : 1. decrease the activation of NF-Ï°B and the release of pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8 in stimulated human keratinocytes, 2. decrease the neuropeptide CGRP release by sensory neurons, and 3. inhibit plasmin protease activity. In addition, it inhibited the release of superoxide anions, the UVA-induced oxidation of fibroblast membrane lipids and cytokine induction in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes, showing its capacity to protect epidermal cells against the environmental and oxidative stresses that aggravate the micro-inflammatory vicious cycle. Toical in vivo application of an Eperua falcata extract-containing formulation for 28 days significantly improved the skin biomechanical properties and decreased transepidermal water loss. These data showed that Eperua falcata extract in vitro inhibited the pathways involved in inflammaging, with in vivo an improvement of the skin elasticity, firmness and tonicity, and reinforcement of the integrity of skin barrier function. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15748 [article]

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New delivery system for fast release of cosmetic actives from fabrics to the skin / Josep-Lluis Viladot in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 3 (07-08-09/2012)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 3 (07-08-09/2012) . - p. 161-172 Titre : New delivery system for fast release of cosmetic actives from fabrics to the skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Josep-Lluis Viladot, Auteur ; Alfonso Fernàndez-Botello, Auteur ; Sandra Mendez, Auteur ; Nùria Almiñana, Auteur ; Juan Cebriàn, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 161-172 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée Cosmétotextiles Diffusion (physique) Encapsulation Etude in vivo Microscopie à force atomique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A novel microencapsulated delivery system for cosmetotextile applications either by exhaustion bath or by spraying based on cationic vesicles is described which allows easy application by the end consumer. The anchoring ability to fabric and durability (resistance to washings) of the active was determined for this system. Furthermore, the release of active contained in the system quantified by skin permeation tests using Franz cells, proving that there is sufficient concentration of the active to provide the desired cosmetic activity. This was confirmed by an in vivo test carried out with such cationic vesicles containing a moisturizing active. All in all, the transfer kinetics positions this approach for quick active release from fabric to the skin. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15749 [article]

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Penetration studies of active model substances from an O/W emulsion - Influence of the lipophilicity of the formulation in human skin in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 3 (07-08-09/2012)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 3 (07-08-09/2012) . - p. 175-183 Titre : Penetration studies of active model substances from an O/W emulsion - Influence of the lipophilicity of the formulation in human skin Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 175-183 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée Biomolécules actives Chromatographie en phase gazeuse Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Médicaments -- Lipophilie Spectrométrie de masse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For use of topical and transdermal formulations, besides the potency of the active substance, selection of a suitable vehicle is very crucial since it can affect both drug release and skin penetration. Factors that contribute to selection are the solubility of the drug in the vehicle, release of the drug from the vehicle into the skin and enhancement of drug penetration through the stratum corneum. The main aim of this study was to analyze the influence of the lipophilicity of the vehicles systems on liberation from the multilayer membrane system and penetration into human skin of active model substances. For this purpose three actives with different physicochemical properties, dihydroavenanthramide D, salicyloyl phytosphingosine and glycyrrhizinic acid, were chosen. Model emulsions with different amounts of the oil phase (5%, 18.5% and 40%) containing Myritol PC (propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate) as the lipophilic marker component were prepared. For liberation behavior of the three substances and the liphphilic component of the emulsions, the solvent drag theory could be suggested. Penetration profiles of the two model substances (dihyroave-nanthramide D and glycyrrhizinic acid) were investigated. An increasing amount of lipid phase in emulsions did not affect the penetration profile of the substances and the lipophilic marker component in skin and the above mentioned solvent drag theory could not explain the penetration profile of the active model components. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15750 [article]

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Toxicological science : A tool in safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients / D. Carvalho in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 3 (07-08-09/2012)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 3 (07-08-09/2012) . - p. 185-185 Titre : Toxicological science : A tool in safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : D. Carvalho, Auteur ; J. Nunes, Auteur ; F. F. Nunes, Auteur ; M. B. Stevanato, Auteur ; B. T. Carvalho, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 185-185 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie Substances dangereuses -- Evaluation du risque Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This paper describes a small part of the history of toxicology, its development during the last centuries and the opportunity that the scientific community has to acknowledge the establishment of a new specialty in toxicology capable of interacting with and contributing to cosmetology. ith emphasis on the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients, especially the 26th IFSCC Congres/2010 - when the scientific community came together to discuss technical scientific and regulatory aspects of cosmetic science - offered this opportunity. The main purpose of this paper is to present in a short space of time the newest research field associating toxicological science and the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients, which could pull together all research fields of cosmetics and toxicology. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15751 [article]

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