A clinical, biometrological and ultrastructural study of xerotic skin / N. Berry in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 4 (08/1999)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 4 (08/1999) . - p. 241–252 Titre : A clinical, biometrological and ultrastructural study of xerotic skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : N. Berry, Auteur ; C. Charmeil, Auteur ; C. Goujon, Auteur ; A. Silvy, Auteur ; P. Girard, Auteur ; P. Corcuff, Auteur ; C. Montastier, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 241–252 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cornéomètres Cornéosomes Lipides Perte insensible en eau Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The purpose of this in vivo study was to investigate, non-invasively on human subjects, xerotic skin and its physiological evolution over time, compared to normal skin. Two groups of 17 female subjects were studied during the winter season, one made up of subjects with normal skin and the other subjects with xerotic skin. A clinical assessment and biometrological measurements of hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were performed on the same area of the external antero-lateral surface of the leg at the start of the study then after three weeks. At the end of the study, the ultrastructure of stratum corneum samples taken from the same area was examined by transmission electron microscopy. Subjects with xerotic skin were selected according to their impaired cutaneous barrier function, reflected in a TEWL higher than 12 g/m Compared to normal subjects, they presented a hydration level more than 25% lower. After an interval of 21 days, no significant change in the hydration level or clinical appearance of the xerotic skin was observed. In contrast, the TEWL had decreased significantly (D − D =−3.6 g/m /h; p < 0.001) but still stayed higher than normal values. Changes in the ultrastructure of the stratum corneum were also observed in the subjects with xerotic skin. Unlike normal skin, corneosomes could be detected right up to the surface layers, accompanied by intercellular lipids in an amorphous form. These observations confirm the important roles played by both corneosomes and lipid organization in the cohesion/desquamation processes. In the subjects with normal skin, the hydration level and barrier function remained unchanged during the three week study but an onset of skin dryness was observed, the mean clinical score increasing by +1.3 (p = 0.01). These results confirm that there is no direct relationship between TEWL and the severity of skin dryness. It appears that a clinical evaluation is more sensitive than biometrological measurement for describing early state of cutaneous dryness. This study highlights the importance of a regular cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical treatment during the winter to prevent xerosis apparition on legs. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196570.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.196570.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26482 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

Effects of eczema calming lotion on the stratum corneum in atopic dermatitis : Corneodesmosin and intercellular lipid lamellae / Hilal Ilarslan in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 4 (08/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 4 (08/2024) . - p. 516-525 Titre : Effects of eczema calming lotion on the stratum corneum in atopic dermatitis : Corneodesmosin and intercellular lipid lamellae Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hilal Ilarslan, Auteur ; William F. Lathrop, Auteur ; Brian Dobkowski, Auteur ; Stacy S. Hawkins, Auteur ; Jane Scott, Auteur ; John Bajor, Auteur ; Andrew E. Mayes, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 516-525 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée cornéodesmosine La cornéodesmosine est synthétisée au sein des kératinocytes épineux supérieurs. Sécrétée par l’intermédiaire des corps lamellaires, la cornéodesmosine est secondairement incorporée au niveau du cÅ“ur des desmosomes. Il s’agit de la seule protéine identifiée à ce jour comme étant spécifique des cornéodesmosomes. Son contenu riche en résidus sérine et glycine s'organisant en boucles souples est compatible avec des fonctions d’adhésion. (https://biologiedelapeau.fr/) Cornéosomes Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Dermo-pharmacie Eczéma constitutionnel Lamelles lipidiques Microscopie confocale à balayage laser Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterized by compositional and structural changes to the skin at lesional sites. Alteration to the levels and organization of both protein and lipid components are associated with disease status and lead to impaired barrier and hydration. Corneodesmosin (CDSN) and the arrangement and length of the intercellular lipid lamellae (ICLL) are altered in disrupted skin states. The aim of this research was to profile the distribution of CDSN and the ICLL in the stratum corneum (SC) at lesional and non-lesional sites in AD-prone skin and to investigate the impact of an eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids, and colloidal oatmeal. - METHODS : An IRB-approved study was conducted with participants with active AD. From a small subset of participants, tape strips were collected from lesional and non-lesional sites on the arm, prior to and after twice daily application, over 4 weeks of an eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids, and colloidal oatmeal. Fluorescent antibody staining was used to investigate the distribution of CDSN. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) was used to characterize the ICLL. - RESULTS : The distribution/coverage of CDSN was similar between lesional and non-lesional sites at baseline ; application of the lotion resulted in a more defined honeycomb/peripheral distribution. Normalized ICLL (nICLL) was lower in baseline samples from lesional sites relative to non-lesional sites. Application of the lotion increased this parameter by the end of the study at all sites. - CONCLUSION : The eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids and colloidal oatmeal provided changes in corneodesmosomal proteins distribution and ICLL, consistent with improvements in corneocyte maturation and improved barrier function in the skin of individuals with atopic dermatitis. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Corneodesmosin staining - Sample preparation for TEM and quantitative analysis of ICLL - RESULTS : Corneodesmosin distribution DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12962 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M-QgBKcqyi-7NVjWZjqxDYyG3lIJB5xO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41351 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 133-154 Titre : Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 133-154 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cornéosomes Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Facteur naturel d'hydratation Filaggrine Lipides Matériaux -- Propriétés barrières Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptidases Produits hydratants Sécheresse cutanée Une xérose est un dessèchement de la peau. Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research. We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation. The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1. Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration. Note de contenu : - MATURATION PATHWAYS AND GRADIENTS IN THE STRATUM CORNEUM : Water - Corneodesmosome and plasminogen system - Filaggrin and NMF - Barrier lipids - ARE THERE DIFFERENT TYPES OF DRY SKIN ? : Stratum compactum – Disjunctum ratio model of dry skin - The dry skin cycle - Table 1 : Comparison of proteins between SC samples from sun-exposed cheek and sun-protected post-auricular (PA) area in Caucasian women DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12832 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gyGbFFX05QTuLAEF3ncihyYctFOG6IOf/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39165 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

---

1 (1 - 3 / 3)