Dépouillements

Towards an eco-friendly photoprotection / Dominique Moyal in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012) . - p. 67-70 Titre : Towards an eco-friendly photoprotection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Dominique Moyal, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 67-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Eco-conception Ecotoxicologie Environnement -- Protection Photoprotection Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Decades of research on sun-induced skin damage have led the industry to develop anduse new UV filters especially for UVA protection and optimizing their formulation to afford a photostable and well balanced UVA/UVB protection. The European regulation is active in registering all sunscreens according to high standards of consumer protection through a dual commitment to safety and efficacy. The major challenges for both the cosmetic industry and health agencies are the following : I) consumer understanding and attitudes behavior implying and appropriate communication of sun-induced damage and guidance on the choice of an adequate protection product - II) improvement of the sensoriality of formulas for better compliance - III) increased efficacy together with a decreased amount of UV filters using synergistic combinations to reduce cost and environmental impact, and IV) protection of the environment through use of predictive methods and assessment of the ecotoxicity of both filters and products (impact on water, bioaccumulation) and their eco-conception (life cycle analysis, green chemistry). Note de contenu : - Environmental assessment - Formulation - Synergy between organic UV filters - Synergy between organic and inorganic UV filters - Photostability Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14954 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
13909	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Development of self-dissolving microneedles consisting of hyaluronic acid as an anti-wrinkle treatment / Yukiko Matsunaga in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012) . - p. 73-78 Titre : Development of self-dissolving microneedles consisting of hyaluronic acid as an anti-wrinkle treatment Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Yukiko Matsunaga, Auteur ; Shigeyoshi Fujiwara, Auteur ; Yuichiro Mori, Auteur ; Akiko Miyake, Auteur ; Haruyo Yamanishi, Auteur ; Madoka Kage, Auteur ; Yoshihiro Tokudome, Auteur ; Fumie Hashimoto, Auteur ; Takeshi Hariya, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 73-78 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Cosmétiques Hyaluronique, acide L'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux. Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique. Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale. Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hyaluronic acid, a nonsulfated glycosaminoglycans, plays a key role in water retention in the extracellular matrix. Quantitative deficiency of hyaluronic acid in the skin promotes the signs of aging and therefore supplementation of hyaluronic acid is essential to facilitate skin rejuvenation. Unfortunately, hyaluronic acid does not readily enter cutaneous tissue by passive transport because of its high molecular weight. However, self-dissolving microneedles, which are needle-shaped structures designed to pierce the stratum corneum, can be used to deliver agents to the stratum corneum or epidermis and should be able to deliver hyaluronic acid. In this study, we developed self-dissolving microneedles composed of hyaluronic acid for cosmetic use. Microscopic examination demonstrated that the tip of these hyaluronic acid microneedles reached the lower layer of the stratum corneum. Addition of hyaluronic acid to keratinocytes promoted celle proliferation and induced upregulation of profilaggrin gene expression. Hyaluronic acid synthase 1 mRNA was also upregulated by addition of hyaluronic aid to fibroblasts. Successive applications of self-dissolving microneedles to crow's feet for 4 weeks resulted in significant improvements in wrinkle formation and skin elasticity. These findings suggest that introduction of hyaluronic acid into the stratum corneum with microneedles may be an effective approach for cosmetic improvement of wrinkles. Self-dissolving microneedles are also expected to be effective for transdermal delivery of other cosmetically active agents. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Microscopic study - Cell culture and real-time quantitative PCR - Evaluation of self-dissolving microneedles as an anti-wrinkle agent - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Overview of microneedles - Microneedles penetrate the stratum corneum - Hyalunonic acid promotes proliferation and induces upregulation of profilaggrin in keratinocytes - Hyaluronic acid synthetase 1 mRNA is upregulated by hyaluronic acid addition in fibroblasts - Successive applications of self-dissolving microneedles markedly improves wrinkles Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14955 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
13909	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Synergistic effects of taurine and caffeine on regulation of the hair cycle : composition of bioactives against premature hair loss / Thomas Welss in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012) . - p. 81-87 Titre : Synergistic effects of taurine and caffeine on regulation of the hair cycle : composition of bioactives against premature hair loss Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Welss, Auteur ; Melanie Giesen, Auteur ; Thorsten Knappe, Auteur ; Melanie Briese, Auteur ; Philipp Spuhler, Auteur ; Dirk Petersohn, Auteur ; Thomas Förster, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 81-87 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alopécie Caféine Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Produits capillaires Taurine Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair is an attribute of health, youth and attractiveness. Therefore, premature hair loss often is indicative for the well-being of the affected persons. The focus of this study was to identify bioactive substances which counteract premature hair loss by targeted support of the anagen phase of the hair cycle. Therefore, we implemented a test strategy comprising a novel three-dimensional organotypic tissue model of the human dermal papilla for in vitro screening purpose and a noninvasive method to validate the effects in vivo. In the screening approach physiological changes after stimulation with caffeine, taurine or combinations of both were described by analyzing the gene expression of typical anagen and catagen markers (HGF and GFBP-3) as well as the release of the anagen associated growth factor HGF. These results revealed synergistic effects of caffeine and taurine in terms of anagen-stimulatory processes assuming an elongation of the anagen phase. This was additionally supported by analyzing changes in the molecular profiles of anagen-associated HGF protein release and catagen-associated IGFBP-3 gene expression in the plucked hair follicle in vivo after using products containing the active combination. Both methods support the assumption that combination of caffeine and taurine in a hair care composition positively influences hair growth and reduces premature hair loss. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Preparation of the reconstructed human dermal papilla - Formulation assisting software toolkit (FAST) - Cytotoxicity in vitro - Differential gene expression - Protein analysis - RESULTS : Design of experiment - Analysis of cytotoxicity - Analysis of differential gene expression in vitro - Protein analysis in vitro - Evaluation of molecular profile in vivo Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14956 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
13909	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Protection of human epidermal cells from UV-induced DNA damage by acetyl hexapeptide-1, a biomimetic peptide analog of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormoneα / Estelle Loing in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012) . - p. 89-95 Titre : Protection of human epidermal cells from UV-induced DNA damage by acetyl hexapeptide-1, a biomimetic peptide analog of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormoneα Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Estelle Loing, Auteur ; Thierry Suère, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 89-95 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : ADN -- Réparation Hexapeptides Protection cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cutaneous pigmentation by melamins represents the main pathway to protect skin cells against the carcinogenic and ageing effects resulting from UV exposure. α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) induces epidermal pigmentation upon binding to the melanocortin-1 receptor, which in turn activates the signal transduction pathway taht leads to the induction of tyrosinase and other key players for melanin synthesis. In addition, it has been proven that α-MSH directly reduces UV-induced DNA damage and enhances DNA repair in epidermal melanocytes and keratinocytes by modulating the function of DNA repair molecules. Therefore, there has been increasing interest from skincare companies in developing α-MSH analogs that induce sunless tanning, with a particular emphasis on small peptide analogues for their ability to activate the melanocortin-1 receptor, reduce UV-induced DNA damage and easili penetrate across the stratum corneum after topical application. In this study we demonstrate that acetyl hexapeptide-1, a biomimetic peptide analogue of α-MSH, reduces the genotoxic adverse effects of both UVA and UVB in epidermal melanocytes, and that it protects human epidermal keratinocytes from DNA oxidative damages induced by UVA. Furthemore, using an ex vivo skin model, we show that acetyl hexapeptide-1 significantly reduces the appearance of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers after UV challenge and that it blocks UV-induced caspase-3 activation and apoptosis. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Cell and tissue culture - Comet assay - Detection of 8-oxo-2'-deoxyguanosine (8-oxo-dG) - Immunohistochemical detection of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers and caspase-3 - Image quantification by picture analysis - Evaluation of the anti-erythemal properties of acetyl hexapeptide-1 in human volunteers - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Acetyl hexapeptide-1 prevents UV-induced genotoxic effects in primary human melanocytes - Acetyl hexapeptide-1 protects human keratinocytes from UVA-induced oxidative damage to DNA - Acetyl hexapeptide-1 protects human skin ex vivo from UV-induced pyrimidine dimers and apoptosis - Anti-erythemal properties of acetyl hexapeptide-1, a clinical study Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14957 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
13909	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

In vivo and in vitro SPF determination - Two sides of the same coin ? in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 2 (04-05-06/2012) . - p. 97-103 Titre : In vivo and in vitro SPF determination - Two sides of the same coin ? Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 97-103 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Produits antisolaires Tags : 'Facteur  protection  solaire'  SPF  'In  vivo'  vitro'  'Application  antisolaire'  'Protection  UV' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For the purpose of evaluating the risk for consumers who apply less sunscreen than the standard test application amount, the DGK Task Force. "Sun protection" initiated a multicenter study in accordance with the in vivo test protocol of the International Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Test Method. Three different amounts (0.5, 1.0 and 2.0 mg/cm2) of three commercial sunscreens were investigated in three test centers. The main result obtained was a linear dependence of the SPF on the quantity applied. The recommendation to use an application quantity of 2.0 mg/cm2 is clearly driven by the aim to produce reliable and reproducible in vivo resluts. In the subsequent in vitro multicenter study, possible methodologies and strategies for improved accuracy of the determination of the SPF on sandblasted PMMA plates were compared. Influencing factors such as the amount of product applied, pretreatment of the samples, equilibration time and temperature, and the quality of the spectrophotometer were taken into account. An overall decrease in the standard deviations within single laboratories could be achieved for in vitro SPF testing but no improvement in the span of interlaboratory differences was obtained. The complete findings obtained from this multicenter study could perhaps serve as a solid basis for increasing the reliability of a future in vitro SPF method. Note de contenu : - In vivo multicenter study - Basic application procedures - Correlation of applied amount of sunscreen and SPF in vitro - Attempts to harmonize the application procedure Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14970 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
13909	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible