A benefit-sharing case on an active from the amazonian biodiversity / Daniela Azevedo in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1-2 (01-02/2017) . - p. 48-52 Titre : A benefit-sharing case on an active from the amazonian biodiversity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Daniela Azevedo, Auteur ; Christelle Graizeau, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 48-52 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Collagène Cosmétiques Développement durable Mélanine Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rayonnement ultraviolet A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Since 2000, Beraca has implemented its Socio-Biodiversity Enhancement Program that aims to develop the sustainable use of non-timber resources by the people living in the Amazon region, consequently preserving the forest. Transforming seeds and fruits harvested by local families into oils, butters, actives and exfoliants, Beraca's benefit-sharing actions comply with the Nagoya protocol requirements that were ratified by the European Parliament in March 2014. In collaboration with the Copedic cooperative, a specific program was developed in the north of Breves, Parà, on the island of Marajo in Brazil. They supply Beraca with the pracaxi seeds used to develop Beracare BBA - Bio-Behenic Active System. This unique active ingredient from the Amazonian biodiversity contributes to the development of 40 members and more than 150 associates from the Copedic cooperative and reinforces the wild harvesting role in reducing the population migration from their native community. In parallel, it offers to the cosmetic industry an oily active with pair conditioning properties as well as skin-brightening and anti-aging benefits. Note de contenu : - BERACA'S BENEFIT-SHARING PROGRAM WITH THE COPEDIC COMMUNITY : Copedic and Beraca partnership - Measured benefits for Copedic - BERACARE BBA - BIO-BEHENIC ACTIVE SYSTEM : Hair care benefits - Skin care benefits - FIGURES : 1. A community on the stand of Marajo in the north of Breves, Para-Brazil - 2. Pracaxi seeds and the pod - 3. Conditioning effect evaluated in comparison and in combination with a traditional quaternary conditioning agent - 4. BBA effect on skin explants' melanin content after 9 days of treatment with UVA radiation. *p<0.05 compared to UV control. Positive control : alpha-arbutin at 3% - 5. Collagen network image analysis on living human-skin explants after 9 days of treatment with Beracare BBA at 3% - 6. Beracare BBA effect on skin explants' hyaluronic acid content in the epidemic and dermic layers after 9 days treatment En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aDsB4scvw47hvffG5VuA26vDb4Gvaoxg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28136 [article]

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Evaluation of efficacy of antioxidant-enriched sunscreen prodcuts against long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light / Eduardo Ruvolo in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 394-402 Titre : Evaluation of efficacy of antioxidant-enriched sunscreen prodcuts against long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Eduardo Ruvolo, Auteur ; Wyatt Boothby-Shoemaker, Auteur ; Nishant Kumar, Auteur ; Iltefat H. Hamzavi, Auteur ; Henry W. Lim, Auteur ; Indermeet Kohli, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 394-402 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cosmétiques Lumière visible Mélanogénèse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation, Troubles de la Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet A Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The synergistic effects of VL and long wavelength UVA1 (VL + UVA1, 370–700 nm) on inducing pigmentation and erythema in skin have been demonstrated and linked to exacerbation of dermatologic conditions including melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This study aimed to compare the photoprotection of organic sunscreens enriched with antioxidant (AO) combinations against VL + UVA1 induced biologic effects. The efficacy was compared with that offered by a commercially available tinted sunscreen. - Methods : Ten healthy adult subjects with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV–VI were enrolled (nine completed). VL + UVA1 dose of 380 J/cm2 was utilized. Assessment methods were polarized photography, investigator global scoring and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS). Measurements were obtained at baseline and immediately, 24 h and 7 days after irradiation. - Results : Sites treated with tinted sunscreen product had significantly less pigmentation compared with untreated but irradiated skin at all time points. However, DRS results demonstrated that the 5-AO sunscreen performed comparably or better than all sunscreens tested with relatively lower dyschromia, delayed erythema and pigmentation. - Conclusion : These results highlight the potential of AO-enriched sunscreens to be photoprotective against VL + UVA1. The combination of efficacy and the cosmetic appearance of this product may provide wider acceptability which is crucial considering the limited available means of protection against this waveband. Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Products tested - Table 2 : Description of Investigator’s Global Assessment scores for pigmentation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12785 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aEtsoNDvIoHpYk8bUwSKyFlzgO6d5GnB/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38139 [article]

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Formulating with UVA protection in mind / Amy Huang in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 5 (05/2023)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 5 (05/2023) . - p. 68-70 Titre : Formulating with UVA protection in mind Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Amy Huang, Auteur ; Jochen Klock, Auteur ; Gernot Kunze, Auteur ; Anne Janssen, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 68-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Allégations (droit) Une allégation est l’affirmation d'un fait par une partie dans une plaidoirie, que la partie prétend pouvoir prouver. Les allégations restent des affirmations sans la preuve, jusqu'à ce qu'elles puissent être prouvées.(Wikipedia) Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Législation Cosmétiques -- Normalisation Industrie cosmétique -- Législation -- Japon Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Protection cutanée Rayonnement ultraviolet A Règlements (droit administratif) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Signs of photoageing, such as lines and wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation are both known to be caused mainly by UVA radiation. To bring maximum flexibility to formulators in meeting both regulatory stipulations and consumer needs, DSM has introduced a new UVA filter to its portfolia. UVB protection and SPF are essential components of sunscreen products. Yet as formulators, are we giving enough attention to UVA protection ? There are good reasons why we should do so. In part, due to regulatory requirements in different global markets, but also to provide consumers with products that help protect facial skin against signs of photoageing, such as lines and wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation − both which are known to be caused mainly by UVA radiation. To bring maximum flexibility to formulators in meeting both regulatory stipulations and consumer needs, DSM introduces a second UVA filter, PARSOL® DHHB (Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), to its portfolio. In this article, we offer a recap of the regulatory requirements for UVA protection and studies in support of the skin care benefits UVA protection could bring as part of everyday, multifunctional products. Note de contenu : - UVA PROTECTION - A REGULATORY OVERVIEW : European Union - USA - APAC - Industry initiatives on measuring UVA protection - BENEFITS OF UVA PROTECTION : Photoageing prevention - Reducing the effects of pigmentation disorders - FORMULATING WITH UVA PROTECTION IN MIND - PROVIDING FORMULATORS WITH A BROAD UV FILTER PORTFOLIO - Table 1 : Japanese cosmetic industry association PA labelling scheme - Table 2 : Boots star rating system classification - Table 3 : Summary of UVA standards and associated UVA protection claims En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qEaID9LIFeDyqZA-Iw7l7ri6OCSN_-fZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39797 [article]

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A human skin model to evaluate the protective effect of compounds against UVA damage / Sophie Abadie in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 594-603 Titre : A human skin model to evaluate the protective effect of compounds against UVA damage Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sophie Abadie, Auteur ; Philippe Bedos, Auteur ; J. Rouquette, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 594-603 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermatologie Explant de peau Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Effets physiologiques Rayonnement ultraviolet A Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The main function of skin is to protect the body from external aggressions. Over time, normal skin ageing is accelerated by external stresses such as smoking, pollution, chemical products and radiation. UV light, in particular UVA, causes DNA damage, apoptosis and morphological modifications, which are responsible for both premature ageing and cancer. The aim of this study was to establish a discriminatory and sufficiently reproducible cutaneous model for evaluating UVA damage, to enable testing for effectiveness of potentially protective compounds. - Methods : The cutaneous model is based on Human skin explants irradiated with UVA. Deleterious effects on epidermis were observed and quantified by haematoxylin–eosin staining and by immunofluorescence of y-H2Ax, cytokeratin 5, involucrin and loricrin protein. Dermis deterioration was evaluated by transmission electronic microscopy and zymography in situ. - Results : We were able to observe and quantify deleterious effects associated with UVA irradiation: epidermal and dermal disruption, appearance of Sunburn cells, increased DNA damage and induced apoptosis. The use of this model in the evaluation of protective compounds was first confirmed using sunscreens, then further validated with a panel of active ingredients which showed beneficial effects on epidermis morphology and DNA integrity after UVA exposure. - Conclusion : We have developed a model and a standardized protocol, based on the use of human skin explants, which allows us to explore the protective effect of active ingredients to environmental stresses such as UVA. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Human skin tissue collection - UVA irradiation - Compounds - Histological analysis - Immunostaining - TUNEL assay - Transmission electron microscopy on dermis - Zymography in situ - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : UVA irradiation causes epidermal disruption - UVA irradiation induces double-strand DNA breaks and apoptosis of keratinocytes - Effects of UVA irradiation on the extracellular matrix of the dermis - A cutaneous model to explore the effect of new protective compounds against UVA DOI : 10.1111/ics.12579 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oEJ8PMUgmYbSCqYb-rUmWILUY8tIbO0L/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33668 [article]

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Impact of photostability and UVA/UVA-blue light protection on free radical generation / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 2-10 Titre : Impact of photostability and UVA/UVA-blue light protection on free radical generation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Katinka Jung, Auteur ; Marietta Seifert, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 2-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Analyse Evaluation Formulation (Génie chimique) Lumière bleue Mesure Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Protection cutanée Radicaux libres (chimie) Rayonnement ultraviolet A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The impact of UV-filter combination on the number of free radicals generated in sunscreen formulations and the skin following UV-VIS irradiation was assessed via electron spin resonance spectroscopy using a spin-probing approach. Four UV-filter combinations that differed in their photostability and range of UVA absorbance coverage were investigated. Fewer free radicals were generated in the sunscreen formulation when a photostable UVA filter system was used, compared to a stabilized UVA filter system. Additionally, fewer free radicals were generated in the skin when a sunscreen with long UVA protection extending to the short visible range was used, compared to a sunscreen with minimal UVA protection. This study showed that the photostability of a UV-filter system is central to the generation of free radicals in a formulation, and that long UVA-blue light protection is key for avoiding the generation of free radicals in the skin. A sunscreen product exhibiting both photostable UVA protection and long UVA-blue light protection is therefore the most appropriate choice for protecting against ROS-induced skin damage. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Sunscreen formulations - Measurement of free radicals - UV and blue light transmittance measurements with photostability assessment - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Photostability profile of investigated sunscreen formulations - Absorbance profile of organic particulate UV filters - Table 1 : Chassis of the sunscreen formulations used in both studies - Table 2 : Composition of UV-filter combinations in % by weight - Table 3 : Relative quantity of free radicals, N = 2 - Table 4 : Means and standard deviations for N = 3-5 - Fig. 1 : Photostability profile of the investigated sunscreens - Fig. 2 :Free radical formation in the unstable sunscreens as a function of UV irradiation time. Data fitted with a Boltzmann sigmoidal algorithm - Fig. 3 : Long UVA-blue light transmittance of Tinosorb M and Tinosorb A2B at 4%, 7% and 10% - Fig. 4 : UVA-blue light transmittance of UV-filter combinations with varying quantities of particulate organic UV filters : from O% (top curve), to 5.25% (middle curve) and 13.5% of organic particulate UV filters En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pU6mF1OhvWam8jSEoNvLW2xn5Gu1dzrM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32927 [article]

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In vitro study into the SPF and UVA-PF using different applicators / Saul Pyle in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013)

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Less yellowing in UV coat / Yung-Chi Yang in EUROPEAN COATINGS JOURNAL (ECJ), N° 4 (04/2017)  

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Licoricidin, an isoflavonoid isolated from Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisher, prevents UVA-induced photoaging of human dermal fibroblasts / K.-J. Kim in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 2 (04/2017)

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Measurement of UVA protection / V. Wendel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

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Mycosporine-like amino acids : natural UV-screening compounds from red algae to protect the skin against photoaging / Daniel Schmid in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003)

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N° Hors série - 12/2016 - Rayonnements optiques & électromagnétiques au travail (Bulletin de HYGIENE & SECURITE DU TRAVAIL) / Institut National de Recherche et de Sécurité  

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Natural formulations with non-nano mineral UV filters / Blanca Motos-Pérez in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)

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Un peptide biomimétique pour protéger l'ADN de la peau / Daniel Schmid in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2015)  

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Photoprotection against visible light-induced pigmentation / Eduardo Ruvolo in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 6 (12/2018)

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Protecting keratinocytes stem cells from UVA harm / Laurie Canel in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 9 (10/2022)  

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The race for improved weathering / Matt Andersson in EUROPEAN COATINGS JOURNAL (ECJ), N° 1 (01/2021)  

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The sunscreen simulator : A formulator's tool to predict SPF and UVA parameters / Bernd Herzog in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 129, N° 7 (07/2003)

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