Effect of skin type and direction of applied force on peel strength of skin layers / T. P. Ferràndiz-Gomez in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 77, N° 4 (07-08/1993)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 77, N° 4 (07-08/1993) . - p. 115-122 Titre : Effect of skin type and direction of applied force on peel strength of skin layers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : T. P. Ferràndiz-Gomez, Auteur ; M. Almela, Auteur ; J. M. Martin-Martinez, Auteur ; Fernando Maldonado, Auteur ; A. C. Orgilés-Barcelo, Auteur Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 115-122 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Cohesive peel strengths of goat, ovine and bovine leathers have been determined by measuring the peel strength at 90° of leather-rigid polyvinylchloride joints which were bonded with a polyurethane adhesive. Differences in cohesion between different zones of each leather, as well as between the different directions and senses in which peel tests were carried out, showed up in all the leathers except ovine leather. The quantitative differences in peel strength can be attributed to the structural characteristics of each leather, and especially to the arrangement of the collagen fibres in the grain layer. Thus the belly and shoulder zones had the best cohesive properties. On the other hand, the consistency of the grain layer was smaller than that the corium layer, which had the strongest cohesion. Therefore in order to achieve sufficient adhesion in shoe making for example it is necessary to eliminate, by roughing, successive layers until the grain-corium interface is reached. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ndhjld0hYL7w71eQFZ4M3nXtw2oPXOko/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=8473 [article]

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Influence of the fat composition of greasy leathers on their bonding capacity / M. Almela in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999)

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999) . - p. 32-38 Titre : Influence of the fat composition of greasy leathers on their bonding capacity Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Almela, Auteur ; Fernando Maldonado, Auteur ; E. Verdù, Auteur ; M. J. Gascon, Auteur ; A. Carter, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 32-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The manufacture of footwear with greasy leathers can be estimated at about 25% of the total production with bovine leathers present. This type of leather causes problems in upper-sole bonding during footwear manufacturing. Therefore, the objective of this work is to study the composition of the greasy leathers that have previously been selected as particularly problematic for bonding. An attempt is made to determine what factors (distribution and/or type of grease) most negatively influence the adhesion capability of these materials, as well as to look for alterntive ways to modify these factors during manufacturing of the leather. In accordance with the results obtained in the characterization, modifications will be proposed throughout the thickness of the leather, and in terms of the products which must be used. The experimental controls and procedures used were the followin : 1) Quantitative determination of the greasy extract according to standard ISO 4048 2) Analysis of the greasy extract . Determination of unsaponifiable fraction (paraffin waxes and mineral oils) . This layer chromatography (TLC) . High pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) . Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) 3) Determination of the bonding capacity of the greasy leather according to standards ISO 11644 and BS-5131 Sec. 1.1.2. Leather that contain extractable greasy matter below 15 % of the dry weight of the material, do not present bonding problems, idependently of the composition of the greasy extract. If the leathers contain more than 15 % of extractable greasy matter they can be problematic for bonding depending on the composition of the greasy extract. Analysis and subsequent tests have shown that wax or mineral oils of high molecular weight are more detrimental for bonding. It is possible to imporove the bonding results of the difficult greasy leathers by modifying the composition of the grease, e.g. replacing paraffin waxes of high molecular weight with others of low molecular weight. Our main conclusions were : 1) Leathers with greasy extract levels above 15 % can be difficult in bonding. 2) Paraffin waxes and mineral oils with a high molecular weight are the most detrimental components for bonding. BOth products are easy to detect by thin layer chromatography aplied to the extract. 3) Alternative grease products have been proposed. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=7855 [article]

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Shape stabilization in footwear part 1 : Study of set properties in ovine upper leathers / M. J. Gascon in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 78, N° 5 (09-10/1994)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 78, N° 5 (09-10/1994) . - p. 142-148 Titre : Shape stabilization in footwear part 1 : Study of set properties in ovine upper leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. J. Gascon, Auteur ; M. Almela, Auteur ; J. Devesa, Auteur ; Fernando Maldonado, Auteur ; A. Marcilla, Auteur Année de publication : 1994 Article en page(s) : p. 142-148 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The influence of different variables such as any previous conditioning of the leather, and relative humidity and temperature during both linear and bi-dimensional stretching equipment. Shape retention has been determined on test pieces after different ageing conditions, simulating conditions which can be suffered by the shoe during its transport, storage and wear. Very favourable results can be obtained by treating the test pieces at 80°C and relative humidities higher than 50 % regardless of the previous conditioning treatment. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nyeayf7fPYw2_EAO0FfK9QCETiY2lFMZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=8264 [article]

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Shape stabilization in footwear. Part 2 : Behaviour of different upper materials and industrial application / M. J. Gascon in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 80, N° 2 (03-04/1996)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 80, N° 2 (03-04/1996) . - p. 57-63 Titre : Shape stabilization in footwear. Part 2 : Behaviour of different upper materials and industrial application Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. J. Gascon, Auteur ; M. Almela, Auteur ; J. Devesa, Auteur ; Fernando Maldonado, Auteur ; A. Marcilla, Auteur Année de publication : 1996 Article en page(s) : p. 57-63 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : A shape stabilization treatment combining the simultaneous application of heat an adequate relative humidity environment has been developed, which can suit any type of natural and synthetic material for shoe uppers, regardless of their nature. This treatment can be easily implemented in an industrial process of shoe manufacture. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16r8DQMbTWqyOQT8MvzTpDf9k8biCs051/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=8191 [article]

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The hydrophobic effect and its importance to collagen / M. Almela in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 76, N° 5 (09-10/1992)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 76, N° 5 (09-10/1992) . - p. 157-161 Titre : The hydrophobic effect and its importance to collagen Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Almela, Auteur ; Fernando Maldonado, Auteur ; A. Otero, Auteur ; J. Costa-Lopez, Auteur Année de publication : 1992 Article en page(s) : p. 157-161 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The stabilisation of the structure of proteins in general and of collagen in particular, is produced through multiple weak interactions of a non-covalent nature, similar to those which take place within the medium in which it is placed. The degree of stabilisation of the protein structure will therefore be the result of the equilibrium between the internbal interactions (within the protein) and the external ones which will take place with the components of the medium. The interactions of a hydrophobic character, that take place between non-polar regions of some molecules, have an important role in the stabilisation of the structure of the proteins. The nature of the hydrophobic effect has been the subject of numerous controversies. Apart from theoretical considerations, the importance of the hydrophobic effect in collagen has been evaluated experimentally by means of the study of the interaction with surfactants having a relatively simple and defined chemical structure. A mechanism, which takes account of the participation of forces of ionic and hydrophobic nature has been established for the total interaction process. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Fv0EopAaMmEyP1Sg8KO423vuiXowFyTp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=8574 [article]

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