Deer leather as a material for outerwear / S. Lange in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 86, N° 4 (07-08/2002)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 86, N° 4 (07-08/2002) Titre : Deer leather as a material for outerwear Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Lange, Auteur ; R. M. Laing, Auteur ; B. E. Niven, Auteur ; D. R. Scobie, Auteur ; S. R. Young, Auteur ; S. E. Gore, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques Cuirs et peaux de cerfs Statistique Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The objective of this work was to identify the critical physical properties of garment leather, the optimal sampling position on the hide, and the recommended number of hides required from one source to adequately describe selected physical properties relevant to garment manufacture. Hides from deer of known origin were processed to finished garment leather and selected properties of the finished leather relevant to garment manufacture were measured. Variability in these properties across any one hide, and among hides from different animals was determined and was less than that reported for ovine leather and similar to that reported for woven textiles used in outerwear. The extension of deer leather exceeded that recommended for woven garment materials, and was greater than that observed on ovine leather. The location on a hide, and the number of hides to be sampled from each batch in order to obtain representative results were determined (near the backbone at approximately the fore leg position ; and three, respectively). Note de contenu : - METHODS : Deer hides - Measurement and statistical analysis of properties - Representative location and optimum number of hides - RESULTS : Sampling site, and number of hides required - Table 1 : Differences from different groups (age and month of kill) and position on the hide - Table 2 : Estimated number of hides required for sampling, and the 'ideal location' for sampling En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eAt0o2ScccHR5G6q0lSWzpKon1S4lq1J/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39906 [article]

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Determining suitability of leather for garments / S. Lange in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999)

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 83, N° 1 (01-02/1999) . - p. 1-7 Titre : Determining suitability of leather for garments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Lange, Auteur ; R. M. Laing, Auteur ; B. E. Niven, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 1-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Garment leather produced from ovine skins is used to manufacture high quality and high cost products. Little is known about which physical properties of this leather affect the garment construction processes and which physical properties are relevant to end-use performance. Test methods developed to assess suitability of woven materials for use in tailored garments were applied to lightweight garment leather from four breeds of sheep (male and female), but subjected to identical processing conditions. Specimens were cut from different locations and orientations on the skins. Location and orientation had a more significant effect on properties than the biological factors of breed and sex. Tanners can use these methods to develop leather with characteristics suitable for garment manufacturing processes. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=7850 [article]

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Extension and recovery of cervine garment leather / S. E. Gore in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 88, N° 2 (03-04/2004)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 88, N° 2 (03-04/2004) . - p. 56-62 Titre : Extension and recovery of cervine garment leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. E. Gore, Auteur ; R. M. Laing, Auteur ; D. J. Carr, Auteur ; B. E. Niven, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 56-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux de cervidés Statistique Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The objective of this study was to examine the extension and recovery behaviour of cervine garment leather. Cervine leather was more extensible than both ovine leather and conventional woven textiles for outerwear. The load and work required for a given extension decreased and stiffness increased during uniaxial and multiaxial extension/recovery cycling. The number of cycles and the extension level affected load, work and stiffness of the first four cycles only (in particular the first cycle). The number of cycles, the direction, and the level of extension did not greatly affect recovery, most of which occurred within 24 hours. For a given extension, the load, work, and stiffness were greater for specimens cut at 0° to the approximate backbone line than those cut at 90°. All differences attributable to direction were small, sometimes not statistically significant, and thus unlikely to affect garment manufacture, or wear. The minimal observed changes after extended periods of uniaxial cyclic testing suggests cervine leather to be a reasonably stable material. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL METHODS : Source of leather - Experimental design and procedures - Data collection and statistical analysis - RESULTS : Extension/recovery cycling and rate of change - Slopes - Work - Recovery - Appearance - DISCUSSION : Experimental methods - Cervine leather as a garment material - - Table 1 : Significance of differences in variables En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19cFg-wQVLnzV0BJXXtMuMMiheQkn-YGk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39642 [article]

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Laminated cervine leather for apparel / C. M. Bruce in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 89, N° 1 (01-02/2005)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 89, N° 1 (01-02/2005) . - p. 1-8 Titre : Laminated cervine leather for apparel Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. M. Bruce, Auteur ; R. M. Laing, Auteur ; B. E. Niven, Auteur ; D. J. Carr, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 1-8 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques Cuirs et peaux de cervidés Plan d'expérience Relaxation des contraintes Résistance à la déchirure Statistique Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The objective of this study was to identify changes in stress-relaxation and tear strength of New Zealand cervine leather after shaving to various thicknesses and then laminating it to an extensible fabric. The load and work required to extend laminated cervine leather (multi-axially) to a specified extension limit was greater and less variable than if lamination had not been carried out. A higher stress-relaxation during cycling was evident with the composite material, although the rate of change was no different to that for non-laminated leather. The difference in work between the initial cycle and subsequent cycles was greater with laminated leather. Reducing the thickness of the leather resulted in a greater deformation height (bagging) and a lower load and work in multiaxial extension, stress-relaxation, tear initiation, and tear strength. Deformation was reduced by laminating the leather only in the case of the thinnest leather. Laminating cervine leather partially reversed the adverse effects of thickness reduction and decreased the differences in stress-relaxation observed amongst the three thicknesses of leather. The textured weft threads of the fabric increased the tearing strength of the composite material in the 0° direction more than in the other directions. The directional properties of the fabric may have a greater effect on garment performance than the location or orientation of the leather as cut from a hide. Note de contenu : - TEST METHODS : Materials - Experimental designs and procedures - Data collection and statistical analysis - Stress-relaxation - Work during stress-relaxation cycling - The rate of change during cycling - Deformation height - Tear strength - DISCUSSION : Effects of reducing thickness - Laminated cervine leather as a garment material - Table 1 : Experimental design - Table 2 : Physical properties En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1--4_4QCYIdQc2Hx3AqAv8cIwajTnQTO-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39607 [article]

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Specimen site and number of skins required to represent selected physical properties of ovine garment leather / S. Lange in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 84, N° 3 (05-06/2000)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 84, N° 3 (05-06/2000) . - p. 127-131 Titre : Specimen site and number of skins required to represent selected physical properties of ovine garment leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Lange, Auteur ; B. E. Niven, Auteur ; R. M. Laing, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 127-131 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques Cuirs et peaux de moutons Echantillonnage Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Properties critical in the manufacture of garments from textile materials were measured on 158 ovine skins typical of those used in garment manufacture, and the location from which properties of leather most represent those of the whole skin identified. Mass, thickness, compression, bending and extension under low loads (lOOgf/cm) were measured at between four and eight locations either side of the spine, and two directions (0 and 90° to the spine) on each skin. The most representative location was adjacent to the spine and in the middle of the skin, and was similar to but larger than that recommended in existing standard test methods for leather. Approximately 10 skins were required to estimate the properties of a batch of ovine garment leather. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Estimated sample size required for skins with similar variability - Sample size - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Identifying the location most representative of properties of a skin : Sample size - Table 1 : Number of skins to be selected for measurement - Table 2 : Identifying the location most representative of properties of a skin - Table 3 : Estimated sample size required for skins with similar variability En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZjPHKkxUg20UeglnnzAgnrk_-gGZjmcO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41234 [article]

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